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Can a cycle be complete in two weeks?


vegasgundog

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vegasgundog

Setting up my e260, I dumped a bottle of bio spiro, 3 cups of sand from the bc and pulled out the divider sponge from the bc and trew it in the back of the e260. I put an ammonia checker in and Ive never seen it change. The new live rock was semi cured and I turkey baste it everyday. A couple of days ago I tested no ammonia but the nitrites and nitrates off the charts. I did a water change thinking it was a good idea to bring down the nitrates. I figured they would go back up. But both are steadily going down.

 

20160622_152808_zpsrdrmgwah.jpg

 

Ive been pouring over cycle threads but nothing realy touches my situation. Id like to get the bc swapped safely into the e260.

 

Does anyone think I will still have a cycle? Planning on putting all the bc water and live rock in the e260 on moving day.

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http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-tank-cycling-tank-bacteria-and-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/

 

That covers every cycle. Rurals summary is spot on

 

The title of the thread is not to use shrimp with live rock...fitting! Your tank was probably cycled the instant it was set up, but not matured as stated.

 

Cycled- processes all ammonia from a typical bioload, reefing can begin.

Matured- surfaces are purple coralline or corals, system handles all ammonia from typical bioload, has better food webs due to thriving populations.

 

Both systems can grow corals but it's easier when done matured sys

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Load test? Thats throwing a shrimp in and seeing if amonia goes up as it rotts?

Nah that's dosing ammonia and see g how fast it dissapears
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vegasgundog

Ok cool thanks guys. The live rock in the bc is well matured so hopefully it will be enought to keep it going strong when i put it in.

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vegasgundog

http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-tank-cycling-tank-bacteria-and-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/

 

That covers every cycle. Rurals summary is spot on

 

The title of the thread is not to use shrimp with live rock...fitting! Your tank was probably cycled the instant it was set up, but not matured as stated.

 

Cycled- processes all ammonia from a typical bioload, reefing can begin.

Matured- surfaces are purple coralline or corals, system handles all ammonia from typical bioload, has better food webs due to thriving populations.

 

Both systems can grow corals but it's easier when done matured sys

:bowdown: wow such an awesome thread! Thanks for linking it.

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That was done with lots of pms and input from many posters and from strong reef chemists too...an assembly of edits we continually change to see if it can cover all cycles. thanks for checking it out that's what I use on all my tanks to make sense of it all. Still req any inputs to remove bulk or carve cleaner explanations anyone submit refinements and we w add em

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vegasgundog

20160609_153402_zpsbrokl3ti.jpg

 

This is everything that is going into the rsm. Its crazy to think I could have put this right into it the day I set it up assuming the new lr didnt have a ton of death and it would be fine. The more I look at the new stuff, I see lots of different colored coraline. I saw the post about nems and how they should be ok if ammonia gone. Keeping fingers crossed.

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oh that is enviable nice setup. I agree its sooo hard to wrap head around live rock not dying every time we touch it, I used to proceed with great caution as well until rules started to lighten up a bit.

 

all the old books implied it...sensitivity of live rock being out of water/moved etc.

 

sponges would die, pods they said.

 

but I literally take my 10 year old pico, packed with corals, pods, worms, sponges the vids show and drain it zero water for 20 mins and then record it on hd vid sitting there in the air, not dying, and then ill do a 100% water change with *different* random brand of sw just to show trained corals are beasts of strength.

 

moving rocks among houses if done within 20 mins is the same, biologically.

 

or from the pet store. its rule breaker #1 we've learned over time imo. Some tanks are skip cycles, some are 40 days runs and not much in between. it wasn't just breaking rules though, being able to thoroughly rip clean an old tank is the fountain of youth for it, and now that we know how to control cycling, all the time, every reef, we can literally clean and fix up bad tanks better than ever. there is a bio benefit to knowing these details, for you its removing arbitrary wait times.

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vegasgundog

 

After tearing this thread apart piece by piece I think Ill be as comfortable as I can on my coming weekend. The thread also reminded me of my laziness attacking my gha problems with the reference to peroxide treatment :blush: . I had used peroxide with mixed results only because I never really attacked it hardcore relying on my lazy turbo and tuxedo with manual removal without regularity. No way has it reached anything other than annoying. Today before work I pulled about as many smaller rocks out for direct treatment I could. I figure now is the time to get my but in gear before the move.

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if poss to take pics of the cleaning phase I will link it as helpful reference to others

 

I know this seems like link flooding but it's not meant to be, intended to show how many other tanks did a deep clean before you take the risk

 

 

The outcome is just great it's truly the only way I do aquarium work. I clean to the core

 

No detritus

 

Sandbed clean, external rasp and treat all rocks just to catch up, then this clean start sustains that cleanup nicely, reef seems new. Big sand rinse thread

 

http://reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445

 

The benefit here is seeing others tanks literally parted out, moved, flash setup zero cycle. This technique for bed cleaning directly utilizes skip cycle biology from that other thread, they are linked in benefit. The point of that whole thread is permit nothing untoward, force any tank to comply by trusting you can deep clean and not kill bacteria. To deep clean partially and disturb half rotted pockets of waste is the risk, but a full commitment run is a pure biological reset. Only the full trust full cleaning separate animals from detritus commitment will work, but it will work big time as often as you want to. I'm once every three mos.

 

Starting clean is age reset...my bowl has indefinite lifespan due to this practice but even if not the primary mode, a catch up cleaning needs a path to zero cycle/loss of animals. Or people moving homes have a cleaning/interception opportunity

 

Thanks tons for reading I'll link your tank if you'd like, someone else wants to see your predictions and outcome.

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vegasgundog

I wish I had taken picks of the process, but I was trying to cram it into my prework preparation. Ill continue treatment the next couple of days and take pics as I can.

 

I picked up lr rubble pieces with the intent of raising main lr pieces up out of the sand bed when final scape is done in the rsm allowing detritus to be blown out from under, something I didn't do in the bc.

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vegasgundog

This is one of the rocks I treated yesterday almost exactly 24 hrs ago. I did not remove any algae just left it alone. I was disapointed when I got home this morning and didnt see any change. Now as Im leaving for work again I see it is faded in color and has no body. The largest hermit seems to find it interesting. The acans are none worse the wear and show no sign of having been exposed to peroxide. I avoided adding it to them, any exposure would have been capilary. They slimmed in protest, but they are just fine.

 

20160625_164028_zpsfvviwfaj.jpg

Thanks tons for reading I'll link your tank if you'd like, someone else wants to see your predictions and outcome.

If you like thats fine. Thanks for your help.

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Yes that's what hundreds have done it usually dies off in a few days

 

Nice pics! The occasional cheat like that swing vote in preventing tank invasions and mostly we just try to focus on clean water low nutrients etc as preventative

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vegasgundog

I think tomorrow will be moving day.....

 

Going to pull the same rocks out and treat again with peroxide as well as a couple more today.

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vegasgundog

I went ahead and did another treatment , I didnt feel I was getting great results because the gha never bleached out. When I swished the rocks in water, most of the gha fell off. Its about 48hrs now and I see more fading.

 

20160627_154008_zpsoinyod8t.jpg.

 

Btw, water parameters in the rsm e260 are perfect. Moving day!

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nice!! I link these great pics to the r2r thread and the nanos peroxide thread here too, well done!

 

heading off that gha at the pass via cheat, is ok to do :)

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vegasgundog

It has been a full week up and running and everything seems to be going perfectly. The diatom bloom that started is gone frome both the additions of my live rock and cleaners from the bc 29. Everyone is finally eating, starry blenny took the longest.

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blasterman

Imo, those green implosion palys will eventually grow next to the acans and start killing them.

 

Things are nearly as bad as aptaisa.

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vegasgundog

They are on separate rocks so I'll move them apart. Thanks for the heads up. They palys have had a tremendous growth spurt lately even before the move. They were actually my first hitchhiker, a couple of grey blobs.

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brandon429

Hey!

 

so is it the case that right now if you sample your water, both your test kits will read low level ammonia?

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Just checking trends that's all...how would they read today, still with low levels? (seeing how many weeks low levels will be indicated. It takes massive dieoff to sustain days and days)

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