Replacing my RO/DI cartridges

[Gooburz]

So I need to replace my RO/DI filters, it's time. But I want to make sure I buy the right ones. I have a SpectraPure refurb 90gpd unit and wanted to know if this is what I'd need to replace the filters with, link provided below. And do I need to replace the membrane that is in the top part of the filter too? I want to say the filters are about a year old and might be a bit overdue. Please advise because this is my first time doing this and I want to get this stuff ordered ASAP!

 

Thank you!!!

 

Is this the right one for my 90GPD unit?

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/CSPDI-System-Cartridge-Replacement-Kit-SuperDI-High-Capacity

 

 

[TristanC]

I just replaced all the filters in my 90 refurb as well. I don't think the membrane needs to be changed as frequently as the rest but I'm not 100% sure. I did the 1 micron sediment filter, 1 micron carbon block, silica buster di cartridge, and the 90 membrane.

[Gooburz]

I just replaced all the filters in my 90 refurb as well. I don't think the membrane needs to be changed as frequently as the rest but I'm not 100% sure. I did the 1 micron sediment filter, 1 micron carbon block, silica buster di cartridge, and the 90 membrane.

 

So is the link I provided the correct filters to buy then?

[AZDesertRat]

You have several options. If you are happy with the 1 micron sediment and carbon block filters then this would be the kit for $43:

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/MPDI-System-Cartridge-Replacement-Kit-High-Capacity-DI

It includes a 1 micron sediment, 1 micron carbon block and their super size SilicaBuster DI cartridge which lasts 30% longer than the standard size and fits in the same housing.

 

Or you could buy the 1 micron sediment and carbon block for $17 here:

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/Economy-1-Micron-Pre-Filter-Replacement-Kit

and the standard sized SilicaBuster for $22 here:

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN/SilicaBuster-DI-Cartridge-Non-Indicating-Standard-10-inch You save $4 but the DI will not last as long so it really is not a savings over the life of the DI.

 

I would recommend for the few extra $$ stepping up to the 0.5 micron sediment and carbon block with the Super SilicaBuster you linked to as it does a better job of protecting the pores in the carbon so it lasts longer and performs better and in turn protects the RO membrane better so everything should last longer.

 

If you really want to save money and don't mind spending a few minutes every so often monitoring headloss with your existing inline pressure gauge and picking up their low range chlorine test kit here:

http://spectrapure.com/TEST-KITS-METERS/CHEMICAL-TEST-KITS/Total-Chlorine-Test-Kit-w-10-tablets

to monitor for chlorine breakthru you can probably extend your filter replacements quite awhile between changes. I use the better filters and monitor both myself and easily get 18 months out of a set of prefilters.

 

ALWAYS make sure you disinfect the system while you have it out of service for replacements then install and flush each filter individually for maximum filter life. A quick search with my username and disinfection should bring up hundreds of posts with my personal directions or Spectrapure has their own in their FAQ or Technical section I believe.

[Gooburz]

You have several options. If you are happy with the 1 micron sediment and carbon block filters then this would be the kit for $43:

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/MPDI-System-Cartridge-Replacement-Kit-High-Capacity-DI

It includes a 1 micron sediment, 1 micron carbon block and their super size SilicaBuster DI cartridge which lasts 30% longer than the standard size and fits in the same housing.

 

Or you could buy the 1 micron sediment and carbon block for $17 here:

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/Economy-1-Micron-Pre-Filter-Replacement-Kit

and the standard sized SilicaBuster for $22 here:

http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN/SilicaBuster-DI-Cartridge-Non-Indicating-Standard-10-inch You save $4 but the DI will not last as long so it really is not a savings over the life of the DI.

 

I would recommend for the few extra $$ stepping up to the 0.5 micron sediment and carbon block with the Super SilicaBuster you linked to as it does a better job of protecting the pores in the carbon so it lasts longer and performs better and in turn protects the RO membrane better so everything should last longer.

 

If you really want to save money and don't mind spending a few minutes every so often monitoring headloss with your existing inline pressure gauge and picking up their low range chlorine test kit here:

http://spectrapure.com/TEST-KITS-METERS/CHEMICAL-TEST-KITS/Total-Chlorine-Test-Kit-w-10-tablets

to monitor for chlorine breakthru you can probably extend your filter replacements quite awhile between changes. I use the better filters and monitor both myself and easily get 18 months out of a set of prefilters.

 

ALWAYS make sure you disinfect the system while you have it out of service for replacements then install and flush each filter individually for maximum filter life. A quick search with my username and disinfection should bring up hundreds of posts with my personal directions or Spectrapure has their own in their FAQ or Technical section I believe.

 

 

Thanks Azdesertrat! I went with that first link you gave me for the higher capacity filters. Spent the extra $5 in shipping to get them in 2 days

 

Can't wait to get them in and start making more water again! How long should I let it run to "bleed" out the new filters?

[duncan-junkie]

I just ordered the spectapure refurbished 90gpd last nite. Are you happy with the unit?

[TristanC]

I just ordered the spectapure refurbished 90gpd last nite. Are you happy with the unit?

It's a great unit.

[Gooburz]

I just ordered the spectapure refurbished 90gpd last nite. Are you happy with the unit?

 

Love the unit! Bought it while I was deployed so the wife didn't have to keep making trips to the LFS and she got it installed with no issues and loved the ease of use with it. Once I got home I swore I'd never go without one again.

[AZDesertRat]

There are several links to my posts on how to disinfect the system and change the filters here:

 

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?s=c4218ba2fc0072496be30552b34f0892&app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=disinfection

[jamescstein]

Thread necro... but this seemed relevant to the thread.

 

What are AZDesetRat, what are your thoughts about Spectra Pure 0.2 Micron (Absolute) ZetaZorb® Sediment Filter

[Sancho]

Thread necro... but this seemed relevant to the thread.

 

What are AZDesetRat, what are your thoughts about Spectra Pure 0.2 Micron (Absolute) ZetaZorb® Sediment Filter

throw your money away $26 for a sediment filter We are makinging salt water not water for pharmaceuticals. Go for it I want to see how this works out. At some point this gets ridiculous. But I guess there are guys that spend $5k for less than an inch of some SPS. I have had 6 years of useful life out of my Dow membrane using 1 micron sediment filters @ $4 each

[AZDesertRat]

I have used the ZetaZorb for 9 years and will not use anything else. The whole purpose of the sediment filter is to protect the billions of tiny microscopic pores in the carbon block where chlorine and VOCs are adsorbed. Not only does it filter many times better, it has lower headloss and it lasts many times longer since it has 10x the surface area of a normal filter so is actually cheaper to own. It can also be carefully rinsed a few times unlike normal spun poly filters. You get what you pay for. On top of that you can get the true 12000 to 20000 gallons out of the carbon since the pores are not plugged or fouled. You can monitor this with a $5 low range chlorine test kit.

[ninjamyst]

I had my 90 gpd for a year now. Is it time to replace the filters? And I don't have to replace the membrane right?

[HarryPotter]

I had my 90 gpd for a year now. Is it time to replace the filters? And I don't have to replace the membrane right?

 

 

Whats the pre-RO and post-RO TDS reading?

[ninjamyst]

 

 

Whats the pre-RO and post-RO TDS reading?

134 and 3...

[HarryPotter]

134 and 3...

 

 

Now that "3" is before the DI stage, correct? If so, thats much better than I get and I don't see the need to change it. Did you ever get below three after the RO stage?

[ninjamyst]

 

 

Now that "3" is before the DI stage, correct? If so, thats much better than I get and I don't see the need to change it. Did you ever get below three after the RO stage?

that's 3 after DI stage.

[AZDesertRat]

Sediment and carbon filters have nothing to do with TDS, their job is to protect the membrane from suspended solids, big stuff, and chlorine.

TDS or dissolved solids are 0.0001 microns in size, sediment and carbon filters are 0.2, 0.5, 1 or up to 10 microns and larger, thousands of times to coarse to trap TDS.

Yes, you replace the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months like clockwork unless you are using pressure gauges and a low range chlorine test kit to monitor for headloss and chlorine breakthru, then you MIGHT be able to extend that 6 months based on testing with them.

[ninjamyst]

bought the replacement kit from Amazon for $50 shipped with Spectrapure as the seller. Not sure why Spectrapure sells it for $52 + $17 shipping on their own website...

Sediment and carbon filters have nothing to do with TDS, their job is to protect the membrane from suspended solids, big stuff, and chlorine.
TDS or dissolved solids are 0.0001 microns in size, sediment and carbon filters are 0.2, 0.5, 1 or up to 10 microns and larger, thousands of times to coarse to trap TDS.
Yes, you replace the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months like clockwork unless you are using pressure gauges and a low range chlorine test kit to monitor for headloss and chlorine breakthru, then you MIGHT be able to extend that 6 months based on testing with them.

doesn't even need to factor in water usage for the 6 months mark? I only change about 15 gallons a week.

[AZDesertRat]

Yes and no. It's as much about time and the possibility of bacteria and virus growth inside the housings which also leads to headloss and filter fouling as much as total gallons produced. Make sure you disinfect the system while you have it down too, this is important.

[Sherman]

For the sediment and carbon block using 1 micron better or 5 micron? Why?

[AZDesertRat]

Always use 1 micron or smaller. I use a 0.2 micron absolute rated sediment filter and a 0.5 micron carbon block myself.

The smaller the micron rating of the sediment filter the better it protects the pores in the carbon where the chlorine is adsorbed and the longer it will last. The better both work, the better they protect the RO membrane, the longer it lasts which in turn makes the DI last longer and work better. Lower cost of ownership.

[OesteUno]

There are several links to my posts on how to disinfect the system and change the filters here:

 

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?s=c4218ba2fc0072496be30552b34f0892&app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=disinfection

 

I found this below... Just thought I would post it.

 

 

I would suggest a new prefilter and carbon block and disinfect the system while you have it down. Its simple and takes only a few minutes.

Remove the prefilter and carbon(s). Add 3 spoonfulls of regular unscented bleach to the first housing, no more than that as bleach is a very strong disinfectant, up to 50,000 ppm when fresh. Screw the empty housings back on. Now, VERY IMPORTANT, disconnect the 1/4" line that leads from the carbon filter up to the membrane housing at the membrane end and stick it in a bucket or the sink. Turn the water supply on slowly and let the housings fill completely until water starts to come out the disconnected tube. Shut the water oof and lets things sit for a few minutes. While you are waiting ponder this, the Centers for Disease Control in Atlanta has determined that a chlorine solution of only 0.5 ppm or mg/L will kill almost any bacteria or virus known to man with a 5 minute contact time, thats on 0.5 ppm and undiluted bleach is 50,000 ppm so thats why I say more is not better.

Turn the water back on and flush until any chlorine odor has dissipated. Remove the first empty housing and install the prefilter, flush it to waste again for a minute or two to flush out any binders, dust of glue from the construction of the filter. Now install the carbon(s) and again flush each one to waste to remove any traces of carbon fines or dust so it does not reach the RO membrane. Finally hook the 1/4" line back up and flush any trapped air out by rotating the unit around in your hands and you are ready for another 6 months. Always change filters at least every 6 months.

You may see rust coloration or browns but greens are not a good sign on a prefilter normally.