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Cultivated Reef

UGH ICH :-(


msparklym13

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emailed live aquaria and they stated their warehouse in california which is their regular stock items takes the same precautions quarantining for 2 weeks while also making sure the fish eat before being listed for sale

That's good to know. I thought that Diver's Den quarantined for a longer period. I guess they do for some species. Here is their protocol: http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general.cfm?general_pagesid=425

 

I'm still not sure that it's identical to the rest of their fish livestock, but at least LiveAquaria quarantines everything for at least two week. Thanks fishguy!

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Hard Softy

Awesome would be nice to have a much better chance of success. I also e-mailed

Cultivated reef about there practices, will let you know :)

The have nice Divinci clowns.

So I got a response from Holly at Cultivated reef they drop ship from sea and reef aquaculture. . They guarantee pest and disease free !!! There we go! :)
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msparklym13

Day 4 of Herbtana :

 

No deaths yet but the Clowns are still dotted black with a few white specs. I am no fish whisperer but they seem off- Firefish dots come and go but seems happy.

 

Appetite still great for all and corals have shown no sign of stress during or after dosage.

 

Also since I am obsessively watching my tank I found something new- What is this?? I haven't bought any corals for a few weeks and have never seen it. I am sure it doesn't have to do with my fish ich but just making sure. Thoughts??

post-90838-0-42013600-1462836015_thumb.jpg

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Cencalfishguy56

That's good to know. I thought that Diver's Den quarantined for a longer period. I guess they do for some species. Here is their protocol: http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general.cfm?general_pagesid=425

 

I'm still not sure that it's identical to the rest of their fish livestock, but at least LiveAquaria quarantines everything for at least two week. Thanks fishguy!

no problem! nonetheless probably safer than sorry to quarantine their regular stock however I do feel as though they treat their diver's den section a little better with precautions!

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msparklym13

It's a stomatella snail (a good hitchhiker).

I have never seen it before yesterday and now he is just jamming all over the rocks! Crazy!

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msparklym13

OK Team- this is my dilemma. Thus far no one has died but my clowns (Cleo and Lulu) look like they have partied for days. They look horrible. The problem is I love them-- this week they started finger nail feeding- not just hand feeding but snuggling up to my finger...taking what I brought them then coming up to love on me! ahhhhh! It's killing me. I just don't want them to die. Experiment aside what is the easiest way to set up a tank? I will get a small tank and put it in my office but how do I actually set up a tank for them? What is the bare bones in a tank I need to make QT? I will leave my firefish and the asshole Goby who brought the Ich in but I am just not ready to lose Lulu and Cleo. Thoughts?

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OK Team- this is my dilemma. Thus far no one has died but my clowns (Cleo and Lulu) look like they have partied for days. They look horrible. The problem is I love them-- this week they started finger nail feeding- not just hand feeding but snuggling up to my finger...taking what I brought them then coming up to love on me! ahhhhh! It's killing me. I just don't want them to die. Experiment aside what is the easiest way to set up a tank? I will get a small tank and put it in my office but how do I actually set up a tank for them? What is the bare bones in a tank I need to make QT? I will leave my firefish and the asshole Goby who brought the Ich in but I am just not ready to lose Lulu and Cleo. Thoughts?

If you're going to treat you should treat all the fish. you can basically go super simple - even a Rubbermaid tub with a heater and some sort of HOB filter. Get some seachem prime and an ammonia badge. Put some dirty floss from your current tank in the hob to add some bacteria and instant HT. If they are looking bad, acting swiftly is in your best interest as waiting won't help anything

Also you will need to watch the ammonia in the tank and be prepared to do frequent water changes and/or dose with prime to help the ammonia from being toxic.

Also I believe someone has already mentioned this but is too hard to go back and read on my phone: treating and immediately putting the fish back in the tank doesn't mean they won't get ich again as it is in your tank. To really get rid of it, the tank needs to sit fallow for a certain number of days (90 I believe). So treating just the clowns and putting them back in with the other fish who are showing symtoms .. Well, they could come down with it again.

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Yeah, like I said, you need to treat them in a hospital tank. I hope it's not too late for them. The stress is harder, they weaker they are.

 

All you really need is a container, heater, and powerhead. However, it's best if you can also transfer a biological filter (like old media from your display system). Also, some PVC fittings (big enough for them to hide in) will make them more comfortable.

 

You will have to treat all of your fish, and leave your display fallow for 6 to 8 weeks. Leaving your other fish to die will just delay how long your clownfish will need to stay in the hospital.

 

 

Edit: Stella beat me to it.

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msparklym13

If you're going to treat you should treat all the fish. you can basically go super simple - even a Rubbermaid tub with a heater and some sort of HOB filter. Get some seachem prime and an ammonia badge. Put some dirty floss from your current tank in the hob to add some bacteria and instant HT. If they are looking bad, acting swiftly is in your best interest as waiting won't help anything

Also you will need to watch the ammonia in the tank and be prepared to do frequent water changes and/or dose with prime to help the ammonia from being toxic.

Also I believe someone has already mentioned this but is too hard to go back and read on my phone: treating and immediately putting the fish back in the tank doesn't mean they won't get ich again as it is in your tank. To really get rid of it, the tank needs to sit fallow for a certain number of days (90 I believe). So treating just the clowns and putting them back in with the other fish who are showing symtoms .. Well, they could come down with it again.

1. Stellablue- I am so excited you wrote - (insert I am not worthy) You are so awesome! Thank Thank You!!

2. Here is where I say beginner stuff- I can do Rubbermaid tub but what is HOB? and seachem prime? Ammonia Badge? As for floss I just use a filter insert (the one Biocube recommends)

3. I am IN for whatever you suggest but just need to dumb it down.... for... "a friend"

4. THANK YOU- Can I say thank you again??? I really appreciate your expertise and will follow it!

Yeah, like I said, you need to treat them in a hospital tank. I hope it's not too late for them. The stress is harder, they weaker they are.

 

All you really need is a container, heater, and powerhead. However, it's best if you can also transfer a biological filter (like old media from your display system). Also, some PVC fittings (big enough for them to hide in) will make them more comfortable.

 

You will have to treat all of your fish, and leave your display fallow for 6 to 8 weeks. Leaving your other fish to die will just delay how long your clownfish will need to stay in the hospital.

 

 

Edit: Stella beat me to it.

I just love my clowns :-( Watching them look toe up is killing me! I don't have a spare powerhead or heater. And have to travel for work. So bummed. Good news is-Corals are not upset at all by treatment....I just wish my babies were looking better

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mystersyster

1. Stellablue- I am so excited you wrote - (insert I am not worthy) You are so awesome! Thank Thank You!!

2. Here is where I say beginner stuff- I can do Rubbermaid tub but what is HOB? and seachem prime? Ammonia Badge? As for floss I just use a filter insert (the one Biocube recommends)

3. I am IN for whatever you suggest but just need to dumb it down.... for... "a friend"

4. THANK YOU- Can I say thank you again??? I really appreciate your expertise and will follow it!

 

I just love my clowns :-( Watching them look toe up is killing me! I don't have a spare powerhead or heater. And have to travel for work. So bummed.

Honestly a ten gallon tank will suffice. They cheap, readily available, and are designed to hold water.

 

A HOB is a hang on back filter. You ONLY should put filter floss from your main tank in it, and then stuff a bunch in to get as much biological filtration as possible. Do not use chemicals that neutralize ammonia, as they can react negatively with copper. I really suggest using cupramine. I've used/using it on very sensitive fish and it is perfectly safe. I bring the dosage .5 up from .1 over a period of five days. Make she you get a copper test kit as well.

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You can pick up everything you need at Walmart. A hang on back (HOB) filter is sufficient, you don't need a powerhead.

 

Edit: Mr.Syster beat me this time.

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msparklym13

You can pick up everything you need at Walmart. A hang on back (HOB) filter is sufficient, you don't need a powerhead.

 

Edit: Mr.Syster beat me this time.

OK-Walmart- done. what size, what else is essential?

Honestly a ten gallon tank will suffice. They cheap, readily available, and are designed to hold water.

 

A HOB is a hang on back filter. You ONLY should put filter floss from your main tank in it, and then stuff a bunch in to get as much biological filtration as possible. Do not use chemicals that neutralize ammonia, as they can react negatively with copper. I really suggest using cupramine. I've used/using it on very sensitive fish and it is perfectly safe. I bring the dosage .5 up from .1 over a period of five days. Make she you get a copper test kit as well.

AND YES- you were right... luckily this dialog will be for all newbies. Maybe it will work in long haul the problem is I just love my clowns too much ;-)

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A 50W heater is the minimum you'll need for a 10 gallon tank (both are pretty cheap). You'll need at least a 5.5 gallon tank (but a food safe plastic container is also fine). For flow, 10 times turnover is plenty (you don't want too much, calm is good). If you are using a bucket as a hospital tank, they sell internal filters that would work. For a HOB filter, their cheapest one is probably fine.

 

I'm not sure what they might have for medication. :unsure:

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Cencalfishguy56

A 50W heater is the minimum you'll need for a 10 gallon tank (both are pretty cheap). You'll need at least a 5.5 gallon tank (but a food safe plastic container is also fine). For flow, 10 times turnover is plenty (you don't want too much, calm is good). If you are using a bucket as a hospital tank, they sell internal filters that would work. For a HOB filter, their cheapest one is probably fine.

 

I'm not sure what they might have for medication. :unsure:

if people use copper I always wondered how they transferred fish back to DT without getting copper in the DT?
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if people use copper I always wondered how they transferred fish back to DT without getting copper in the DT?

 

By the time the 8 week follow period is up, the treatment is done and they are already transitioned back to sea water in the QT.

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OK-Walmart- done. what size, what else is essential?

AND YES- you were right... luckily this dialog will be for all newbies. Maybe it will work in long haul the problem is I just love my clowns too much ;-)

 

 

As you are finding out, there is no such thing as a reef safe med that really works, its not strong enough. I suggest Chloroquine phosphate or Cupramine (need a copper test kit with this one).

 

http://kmaintl.com/product-category/misc to purchase CP. This is probably the safest route but ofc waiting for it to arrive delays treatment.

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Cencalfishguy56

 

 

As you are finding out, there is no such thing as a reef safe med that really works, its not strong enough. I suggest Chloroquine phosphate or Cupramine (need a copper test kit with this one).

 

http://kmaintl.com/product-category/misc to purchase CP. This is probably the safest route but ofc waiting for it to arrive delays treatment.

wow tam never heard of cp, I'll probably pick some up as I really like that you can use live rock as biological filtration unlike cupramine
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Just ordered CP! 15 bucks included shipping for 180 gallon dosages

 

Just keep it out of the light, any light will degrade it. You will be set! I bought some recently just to have on hand as well.

 

Shelf life from what I could find is 5 years if stored in darkness.

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Cencalfishguy56

 

Just keep it out of the light, any light will degrade it. You will be set! I bought some recently just to have on hand as well.

 

Shelf life from what I could find is 5 years if stored in darkness.

sounds like a good deal, are you gonna dose it immediately for precautions or at the sign of disease while in QT? I was thinking run it 24/7 in QT to be on the safe side
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sounds like a good deal, are you gonna dose it immediately for precautions or at the sign of disease while in QT? I was thinking run it 24/7 in QT to be on the safe side

 

I think I may use it for each new fish regardless, seems fairly safe.

 

I can't risk my current fish, most of them would take a long time to find/replace again.

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Cencalfishguy56

 

I think I may use it for each new fish regardless, seems fairly safe.

 

I can't risk my current fish, most of them would take a long time to find/replace again.

i have come to the same conclusion, seems like a way better solution than cupramine since your biological filtration can save you the headache of water changes, guess only time will tell
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