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Coral Vue Hydros

DIY LED Cluster


Matteo

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so I ordered another bridglux LED, for cooling each heatsink will have a 70x10mm fan. Should I just always have these on when the lights are on or have a temp probe connected to trigger the fan via reef angel when temp gets too hot? If I did go this route where should the temp probe be on the heatsink and what temp should trigger the fans?

You can buy an adjustable 3-12v power supply that may keep it more simple and less wiring.

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You can buy an adjustable 3-12v power supply that may keep it more simple and less wiring.

Probably a good idea! I actually just landed another deal where I will be receiving a aquatic life T5 fixture with a pair of your V3s retrofitted on! I am super excited! I will probably keep this thread alive because I might be building it for a friend of mine.

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I would personally, yes. I just went through all the hassle of swapping all of my blue LEDs from Rebels to XP-E2. Slight change, but worth it, as would be your change :)

So I am still probably going to build this fixture for a friend but it needs to manually dimmed now. Will these work?

http://www.amazon.com/DITOP%C2%AE-6V-90V-Motor-Controller-Efficiency/dp/B00RMUH2WA/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461124142&sr=1-19&keywords=5v+pwm+controller

 

From what I understand I will power them with a 12v and the on the pos output will go to the pwm wire on the LDD and the LDDs ground will go to the neg of the dimmer and power supply, correct?

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jedimasterben

No, that is not how that 'controller' is designed. It is designed to take a constant voltage 6-90v input up to 10A and using the onboard controller it pulses that 6-90v signal on the output side, and the potentiometer is used to manually adjust the pulse time.

 

If they only want manual control, then you should get some Inventronics drivers and be done with it IMHO.

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No, that is not how that 'controller' is designed. It is designed to take a constant voltage 6-90v input up to 10A and using the onboard controller it pulses that 6-90v signal on the output side, and the potentiometer is used to manually adjust the pulse time.

 

If they only want manual control, then you should get some Inventronics drivers and be done with it IMHO.

What's the cheapest pwm controller then?

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Thanks! I am building this for a friend now so I gotta budget it right :) SteveLED has a typhon for 45 so I might just do that.

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Fwiw Matteo, I know you're trying to keep it cheap,I dig it,but,I love the crap our of my bluefish mini.

haha if it was my build again this would be decked out already with a reef angel dimming expansion! This is for someone who has never had a DIY fixture. I am trying to convince him how much better DIY is compared to brand name pre-built fixtures haha.

 

My new T5/LED fixture I am receiving Friday will be Bluefish ;)

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haha if it was my build again this would be decked out already with a reef angel dimming expansion! This is for someone who has never had a DIY fixture. I am trying to convince him how much better DIY is compared to brand name pre-built fixtures haha.

 

My new T5/LED fixture I am receiving Friday will be Bluefish ;)

Oh hell yes!

I've been considering running 2 single t5 mounted on each side of the nano box duo for like 3 hours a day t5s just blend everything in really nicely and provide nice full coverage.

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Oh hell yes!

I've been considering running 2 single t5 mounted on each side of the nano box duo for like 3 hours a day t5s just blend everything in really nicely and provide nice full coverage.

yes sir! I am excited because V3 arrays in my opinion run pretty white (a good white) and adding a couple T5s (thinking purple + and actinic) will still make dem corals be popping like gulfsurfers mother from another father, you know what I am saying?

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yes sir! I am excited because V3 arrays in my opinion run pretty white (a good white) and adding a couple T5s (thinking purple + and actinic) will still make dem corals be popping like gulfsurfers mother from another father, you know what I am saying?

I got you bro.
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