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Cultivated Reef

Aeration of RO/DI water


Twantyniner

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Twantyniner

Forgive me if this has been posted elsewhere. Should RO/DI water for top-off ever be aerated? perhaps before the addition of Kalkwasser? I do know know that after Kalk is added it should not be aerated or even stirred.

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AZDesertRat

For top off the amounts are so small it doesn't need to be.

For water chages though I stick a Hydor Evolution powerhead in my bucket or trash can for a little bit to aerate it and help dissolve the salt mix.

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Twantyniner

Yeah for a water change I totally aerate for 24 hours before adding salt. I think that is hugely vital and overlooked by a lot of us newbies. My ph has been a very steady 8.3 and I do not aerate the top off right now so yeah I see your point that the small amount of water it adds probably does not matter. For my top offs I use an ATO device and a 5 gallon bucket. I probably refill the auto top off weekly.

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I would think there is enough aeration in the tank itself? high movement, skimmer, overflow etc. all give aeration? and the water is mixed with circulation for 24 hours before usage, so it need more aeration then that?

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Twantyniner

I aerate RO/DI water before adding salt and doing a water change because I have read it will drive off access Co2 and rid the water of any chlorination. Might not be needed, no idea, it has become a habit of mine and my ph is rock stead and high so I won't be stopping. Maybe I am being a little superstitious but when things are going good I don't rock the boat.

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AZDesertRat

RO/DI water should not have any chlorine? It should not have much measurable CO2 either. You aerate it to raise the dissolved oxygen level in the water.

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Pocket_Tamales

On the subject of WC aeration - since my water changes are going to be small with a biocube 14, would putting the water (1.5-2g weekly) in a 5g jug and shaking vigorously for a while do the trick? This is actually the first I've read about aerating WC water.

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AZDesertRat

If the 5G jug was open top or uncapped it would have some effect but not sure how much.

For its much simpler to throw an old pump or powerhead in the bucket or trashcan when mixing the salt.

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fwiw. I store water in (2) 32 gallon cans. My fresh water can has a heater in it that i assume keeps the water moving around a bit. My saltwater can I keep a power head and a heater in. that can is always spinning round and round inside. I keep them heated so that on my 90 when i change out 10 gallons at a time i dont have a temp swing, same goes for when i top off 3 gallons at a time :blush:

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Twantyniner

RO/DI water should not have any chlorine? It should not have much measurable CO2 either. You aerate it to raise the dissolved oxygen level in the water.

Yes the carbon in the RO/DI should get rid of chlorine and mine more than likely does, I do not test for chlorine. As far as Co2, from my tap water after RO/DI it always had ph swings, I assume it to be from access Co2 in the water. Hard to be sure really, I do not measure for that as well. Yes aeration does raise O2 but not because the bubbles dissolve in the water, especially from a bubbler. Maybe a good protein skimmer does actually dissolve O2 into the water, I am not sure. The bubbler gasses off co2 and allows O2 from the environment to absorb into the water so good flow and surface agitation helps a lot. More than likely just fine with a powerhead churning the water. I like to let my water sit with a heater, powerhead and bubbler going for a day before I add my salt then about a day to let the salt absorb. Though as soon as it is clear I could add it. It may be something completely different but I notice my ph stays 8.1-8.3 without anything except water changes using this method.

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If you have a 5 gallon bucket of water open (like I do now) mixing for your next water change I do not think aerating will do much. Oxygen is going to match atmospheric pressure with the water and the surrounding air.

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