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DIY AIO Pico tank - Questions!


Simulated Fish

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Simulated Fish

Here is my current design for my newest project.

 

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Any issues you see with this rear chamber design? I based it off my Biocube and JBJ AIO tanks. the tank is 10x6x6. The glass is 1/4" thick, the acrylic back wall is 1/8" thick and the baffles are 1/16" thick. The media racks will be inserts so I can simply pull them out to change media and clean the rear chamber. I don't plan on running a skimmer being this is just under 2 gallons. I also doubt I will need a heater, I have never ran one in my Biocube 8g and it holds 78 - 80 with no trouble.

 

 

I am planning on using this tank for breeding shrimp, but if that doesn't work out I would like to still have a nice little Pico tank :)

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Looks good. That's going to be a tiny tiny tank !

 

Do you really need 3 media rack shelves? It seems that for a tank this tiny I'm wondering if 2 would suffice.

 

I would possibly make the strainer a bit longer and design it in such a way that a fine sponge or something can be installed there to prevent larvae from getting sucked into the overflow. I suppose the other option is to use no mechanical filtration at all and let the shrimp live wherever - but that may make cleaning more difficult because you'll have to sift through all the water you take out to remove any shrimps you suck up.

 

Maybe look into some alternate methods for securing the AIO insert - or just be really neat with any silicone you use. The reason is that any silicone flaws will be very noticeable. Maybe apply the silicone to the back of the insert?

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Also double check your design for inserting the rack shelves...not sure how you plan on making little ledges to rest the insert shelves on. Attaching small pieces may prove to be kinda difficult.

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Simulated Fish

Looks good. That's going to be a tiny tiny tank !

 

Do you really need 3 media rack shelves? It seems that for a tank this tiny I'm wondering if 2 would suffice.

 

I would possibly make the strainer a bit longer and design it in such a way that a fine sponge or something can be installed there to prevent larvae from getting sucked into the overflow. I suppose the other option is to use no mechanical filtration at all and let the shrimp live wherever - but that may make cleaning more difficult because you'll have to sift through all the water you take out to remove any shrimps you suck up.

 

Maybe look into some alternate methods for securing the AIO insert - or just be really neat with any silicone you use. The reason is that any silicone flaws will be very noticeable. Maybe apply the silicone to the back of the insert?

 

I have 3 just to have them if it turns into a pico reef (floss, carbon, chemipure blue) I'll most likely just from floss and carbon in this tank for the shrimp.

 

The sponge is a real concern do to the shrimp larva/fry. I was thinking maybe small braces to shove a dense sponge into but I am not sure if that would be the best way.

 

I plan on siliconing it up and using painters tape to give a nice clean line. At lest the cleanest I can do lol.

 

 

Also double check your design for inserting the rack shelves...not sure how you plan on making little ledges to rest the insert shelves on. Attaching small pieces may prove to be kinda difficult.

 

I planned on just making 1.5" long 1/16 strips for them to rest on. I assumed I could just supper glue them down. When I had an issue with my overflow tray stevie suggested superglue as a solid way to attach acrylic.

 

 

 

Looks familiar. Feel free to use my designs for personal use :)

 

LOL thanks! Really though I didn't, I looked at my JBJ and removed a chamber since I don't need to worry about a skimmer. Actually I am worried about water levels in the rear chamber, but if you have a similar layout then that helps boost my confidence!

 

PS I just dug through your websites/topics and WOW you do beautiful work! maybe I need to forget DIY ;)

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Oceanbox Designs

 

 

I have 3 just to have them if it turns into a pico reef (floss, carbon, chemipure blue) I'll most likely just from floss and carbon in this tank for the shrimp.

 

The sponge is a real concern do to the shrimp larva/fry. I was thinking maybe small braces to shove a dense sponge into but I am not sure if that would be the best way.

 

I plan on siliconing it up and using painters tape to give a nice clean line. At lest the cleanest I can do lol.

 

 

 

I planned on just making 1.5" long 1/16 strips for them to rest on. I assumed I could just supper glue them down. When I had an issue with my overflow tray stevie suggested superglue as a solid way to attach acrylic.

 

 

 

 

 

LOL thanks! Really though I didn't, I looked at my JBJ and removed a chamber since I don't need to worry about a skimmer. Actually I am worried about water levels in the rear chamber, but if you have a similar layout then that boost my confidence!

 

PS I just dug through your websites/topics and WOW you do beautiful work! maybe I need to forget DIY ;)

 

Take a look at this: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/365598-oceanbox-designs-10g-signature-all-in-one-tank/

 

Raise your 2nd baffle up by 1-2", looks a bit too short to me, your heater goes in the 2nd chamber, you'll need to run an auto top off system anyway so it doesn't get exposed as water level dropped.

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Simulated Fish

Take a look at this: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/365598-oceanbox-designs-10g-signature-all-in-one-tank/

 

Raise your 2nd baffle up by 1-2", looks a bit too short to me, your heater goes in the 2nd chamber, you'll need to run an auto top off system anyway so it doesn't get exposed as water level dropped.

Aweaome thanks for the help! So it should be about an .5 - 1" below the display water line?

 

Edit: are the baffles solely to control water level?

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not so much water level as more of water control in a small system. Without running a sump there isn't a real need to keep your water level in a certain chamber at a certain height. However I agree with ocean..In a small system, keeping salinity and other water params stable seems to be the hardest part so having more water volume the better.

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Simulated Fish

not so much water level as more of water control in a small system. Without running a sump there isn't a real need to keep your water level in a certain chamber at a certain height. However I agree with ocean..In a small system, keeping salinity and other water params stable seems to be the hardest part so having more water volume the better.

That makes since. I know all about keeping salinity stable thanks to my 8g. I plan on a closed top system to help with this.

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NinjaReefer

Looks like it would work to me. I did a very similar 1.6 gallon. You can see the build in my signature. If it was my tank I would make 2 small changes.

 

First I would lower the wall between the sump area and the display a quarter inch below the top of the tank. This way if your overflow gets clogged your tank will not overflow, the water will just spill over into the sump.

 

Second I don't think that the 2nd baffle is serving any function at all besides taking up space. It wont keep the water level constant and there is no need to alter the flow. I would leave it out so you have more room for a pump and heater.

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Simulated Fish

Looks like it would work to me. I did a very similar 1.6 gallon. You can see the build in my signature. If it was my tank I would make 2 small changes.

 

First I would lower the wall between the sump area and the display a quarter inch below the top of the tank. This way if your overflow gets clogged your tank will not overflow, the water will just spill over into the sump.

 

Second I don't think that the 2nd baffle is serving any function at all besides taking up space. It wont keep the water level constant and there is no need to alter the flow. I would leave it out so you have more room for a pump and heater.

I was actually looking at your tank yesterday! It's one of the reasons I decided DIY :)

 

I thought the baffle was to help reduce air bubbles and keep the water level low on the media basket side so water "waterfalls" down over and through the media while keeping the water level high on the pump/heater side.

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NinjaReefer

I was actually looking at your tank yesterday! It's one of the reasons I decided DIY :)

 

I thought the baffle was to help reduce air bubbles and keep the water level low on the media basket side so water "waterfalls" down over and through the media while keeping the water level high on the pump/heater side.

 

Yes that is true. A baffle can reduce bubbles, but if have a sponge or something in there it will stop the bubbles anyways.

 

However the baffle would have the opposite effect on water level as you described. The water level will stay at the height of the baffle on the media side. Evaporation will show as a change in water level in the pump return compartment.

 

If you remove the 2nd baffle, the entire back chamber (both sides)will change level together with evaporation. I like this option better because besides having more room for equipment, the water level also changes less with evaporation because the water loss is spread over 2 chambers instead of 1. This will make it easier to keep your heater submerged.

 

Edit: if anything that 2nd baffle will add bubbles as it waterfalls into the pump.

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gulfsurfer101

Lot's of valid info here! I'd probably look into ditching one of those shelves and lowering that second baffle. The hardest thing I found with these tiny tanks was being able to keep up with the pump and not let it run dry and also not flood tbe tank where the water is spilling back over the top. It's hard to do with floss clogging and media bags crammed in compartments. A simple rack for floss beneath the overflow teeth and a bag of chemical media in the bottom of the first compartment works fine for me. Also look into square acrylic rods for media rack support.

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Simulated Fish

Lot's of valid info here! I'd probably look into ditching one of those shelves and lowering that second baffle. The hardest thing I found with these tiny tanks was being able to keep up with the pump and not let it run dry and also not flood tbe tank where the water is spilling back over the top. It's hard to do with floss clogging and media bags crammed in compartments. A simple rack for floss beneath the overflow teeth and a bag of chemical media in the bottom of the first compartment works fine for me. Also look into square acrylic rods for media rack support.

A+ info on the rods. The overflow is another problem I did not forsee... Any return pump suggestions?

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gulfsurfer101

I bought a pair of tiny pumps from ebay. Think I paid like 3 bucks shipped a piece. They're about the size of a small fountain pump. I'm using one in my 5.5 pico/guppy tank inn my kids room. The other will be my top off pump in my 75g.

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Simulated Fish

I bought a pair of tiny pumps from ebay. Think I paid like 3 bucks shipped a piece. They're about the size of a small fountain pump. I'm using one in my 5.5 pico/guppy tank inn my kids room. The other will be my top off pump in my 75g.

Link? Thank you! :)

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gulfsurfer101

Possibly get you one later on tonight if I remember. I got a refinery to build bro! Gotta make sure my hands aren't slacking on the job.

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