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0.5 PO4. Need help.


Andreww

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Hi guys, it seems like I have a problem with phosphates in my 2 month old tank which I understand is somewhat normal since the tank is still maturing...

I started with live sand and cured live rock, about 30 pounds of live rock in my 17G tank...

 

I have used RO/DI for top off and salt mix from the LFS from the beginning...

 

I've got no skimmer and no sump, only a HOB filter with carbon and purigen running in it.

Sump and skimmer will hopefully be installed by the end of December.

 

For circulation, I'm running a Vortech MP-10.

 

Live stock:

2 cleaner shrimp

2 clownfish

1 goby and 1 pistol shrimp

 

Feeding them every 2 days frozen and pellet food.

 

My tests as of tonight :

 

Alk: 10

Nitrate:0

Phosphate : 0.5

SG: 1.021 (raising it slowly to 1.026)

 

 

Don't have tests from Ca, Mg and PH yet but I'll be getting them soon.

I'm using ELOS test kits.

 

 

So until I install a sump and a skimmer, blow detritus off the rocks and remove it via skimmer, what can I do to lower the phosphates?

 

I'm doing 3gallon WC every week. I have to clean the glass of algae every 3 days. Nothing too crazy but it's there...diatom mixed with some cyano...

 

I've ran some Seachem phosguard thru the HOB filter but that was only for 5 days then discarded it.. Is it a good idea to run it along carbon and purigen?

 

I'm open to learn as much as possible. . Please educate me. Thank you!

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test your source water, to make sure the water you are using is 0 TDS. if you geting anything above 0 then test the water for phosphate, also what frozen food do you feed? some food in general has stuff like nitrate and phosphate, look at the packaging it will usually say if it has any in it. best way to deal with phos, is to find were it is, stop adding it in, and be diligent with water changes. .5 is also not a bad level either, but that being said you have cyano which could be feeding off the phos so you will get a lower reading. basically what you see on your test kit is what is left over from all the living things using their fare share.

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Thanks for your reply.

I tested the RO/DI water and there's 0 PO4 in it.

Planning to get a TDS meter soon; AZdesertRat recommended I get one to test my water.

 

As far as food, I'm feeding them NLS 1mm pellets, mysis shrimp, and Dr. G's caviar Max.

 

I see Phosphorus mentioned only on the frozen foods ranging from "Minimum 0.01% to Min. 0.1%.

 

I don't have a whole lot of cyano, just a few patches here and there.

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I'm also curious as of why I have 0 Nitrates. Shouldn't I have some in the water with all the fish and inverts?

 

I forgot to mention I have a tuxedo urchin as well which destroys algae that grows on rocks but poops a lot.

So is my test bad or am I removing whatever little nitrate there is in the water when I do my weekly WC?

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i would also cut feeding a bit, do you rotate food or is it all used everytime? if youre testing no phos in the rodi water thats not the source, do you rinse your frozen food? that can help with phosphate. do you add anything else to the water?


I'm also curious as of why I have 0 Nitrates. Shouldn't I have some in the water with all the fish and inverts?

I forgot to mention I have a tuxedo urchin as well which destroys algae that grows on rocks but poops a lot.
So is my test bad or am I removing whatever little nitrate there is in the water when I do my weekly WC?

nitrate is basically a fertilizer so its possible your algae is uptaking most of it and water changes are taking out the rest.

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I recently started rinsing the frozen food , and I was surprised when I noticed the cloudy gunk left after taking the clean mysis out ..

 

I don't feed all at once, I rotate.

 

Nothing else is being added to the water...

 

On another hand, the feather duster (fan worms?)population is getting out of hand, and my live rock is covered in some parts by these white tubes ...is that a sign of abundant food in the water column?

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yes but you also mentioned you blow your rock off alot? they will consume that detritus as well. youre off to a good start, just keep the best practices going and you will be fine

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No , I meant I do it when I change the water but since I have no skimmer yet , blowing them is not helping much since its settling back where it lifted from. ...if that makes any sense.

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Put your mp10 on short pulse mode and tune a wave. That will keep all ur detritus or at least most of it suspended to be caught by your hob filter.

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It might seem counterproductive but if you were to dose nitrates, it would help to bring down your phosphates. The reason for this is the redfield ratio. If you would like more info on it, Markalots thread has details or just PM him.

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IronChefItaly

Phosphate tests can be pretty inaccurate and are generally a poor indicator compared to the observation of algae growth. If you do suspect your phosphates being a bit high I would try limiting your feeding specifically of pellets and flake foods since they are significantly higher nutrient density than frozen food.

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Kat, thanks I will look for his threads. Seems like vodka dosing would be a good idea if I had high nitrates and phosphates, but in my case I don't think it'd work.

 

Iron chef , I'll try to feed less for the time being and see what kind of results I'll get.

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While this doesn't "get at the source", honestly just get some Rowa-Phos, use as directed, throw that in your filter and be done with it. The tank is new; I wouldn't sweat this too much right now. You don't have any corals, correct? The phosphates are probably coming from the food (the pellets and flakes specifically as a lot of it is likely mostly falling to the sandbed rather than getting consumed), but another source could even be the type of salt mix you use. I feed pellets too and a LOT of them drop to the bottom never to be seen again. I have a few hermits to deal with that, but in hindsight I'd go with a peppermint shrimp over hermits for an addition to your CUC to clean things like that up. I also have a phosphate issue if I don't keep up on it with a phosphate removing media (like Rowa-Phos) and clearly many others do too or there wouldn't be such a thing as media reactors to run GFO (again, Rowa-Phos) if this wasn't a pretty standard thing that we have to deal with. Keep up on your water changes, throw some of that media in your filter, and IMO, rather than a test kit that's really only good for freaking you out if the numbers don't meet or exceed optimal conditions, let your tank be your guide. Algae bloom = you have a phosphate issue, no algae = your good. :)

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I've got corals, about 4 LPS /SPS mix, all doing good + 1 anemone. I'm getting blue and green algae under the sand, but I haven't seen much algae forming on the sand lately...

 

Whatever I feed, 90% it's getting consumed before hitting the sand. Overall with feeding less I see an improvement... I did do a couple more water changes since so that might have helped as well

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Seems like a lot of people run with low phosphates, <.03 but if you want to reduce them easily try Phosphate RX

 

You can dose monthly or as needed and is a pretty instant remedy. I don't think you want them to be 0 but until you know where they're coming from and are able to address it, this is a pretty safe control method.

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Def don't want them 0, especially since I'm gonna have an LPS dominated tank. I'll see how the tank progresses in the next few months...

 

The good thing with the Phosphate RX is that you can control how much you want to reduce it by. Test for current levels then dose based on how much it removes to get to target levels. GFO and stuff like that is going to reduce and keep it at 0 most likely.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It might seem counterproductive but if you were to dose nitrates, it would help to bring down your phosphates. The reason for this is the redfield ratio. If you would like more info on it, Markalots thread has details or just PM him.

Plus 1 on this.. Works like a charm and keeps my nitrates up at 5 where I want them at

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