kimberbee Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 The Tank: Tank IM Fusion Mini 40 Gallon Custom Built Stand Rock and Sand Approx. 20lbs ReefCleanrs Rock Approx. 40lbs of CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink sand Lighting NanoBox Duo Flow Stock Pump RW-4 Filtration InTank Filter Floss Holder Eggcrate holder for ChemiPure Blue Eshopps Nano Skimmer Heating 100 Watt Eheim Jager Heater Auto Top-Off AutoAqua Smart ATO Been in the hobby for just over a year. Started with a Biocube 29 last June and added a Nuvo Fusion 20 in April. I'm finally sick of the maintenance it takes for multiple tanks so it's time to consolidate!! Planning to build my own cabinet - lower portion to hold/hide a litter box (with vent holes and maybe even fans), top portion will be some slide out storage for cords and small items. Bigger tank supplies will go on a rolly cart in the closet. Tank will very likely be a 24x24x18 with an AIO insert. Stocking is TBD, but mostly what I already have in my two tanks. I've been drawing out layouts and planning for a few weeks now. I finally settled on the below for a basic framing guide: I went to Menards this morning and picked up 8 2x4's and a box of screws: It turned into a lovely day outside, so I even got it all cut out too: I was about to start screwing ( ) but got nervous about messing up. I guess there is a type of clamp/jig that will help me hold everything together. Not feeling like another trip to Menards, so that's as far as I'll get this weekend!! Link to comment
vlangel Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Good for you kimber! Way to go and take charge and 'just do it'. Just like Nike says! Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Good for you kimber! Way to go and take charge and 'just do it'. Just like Nike says! I guess my BF thought he was going to have to build it all and I was just gonna finish it off with stain or paint. No, no sir! He helped me pick out nice straight boards, showed me how to use the saw, but I cut everything all myself! And unsupervised! We did end up back at Menards later today for a 90 degree clamp. Alas, I only got 5 hours of sleep last night. I probably should not use power tools any more today. Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 I started screwing all the pieces together yesterday. But I was frustrated and not paying attention, and I really don't use power tools often. The 2x4's are off a little, and not quite square/flat. I'm really hoping this isn't going to cause issues with the stand being level. If It's light enough that I can grab a pic when I get home, I'll post. Link to comment
joy13 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 If it isn't to off you can sand it to make it more level. Where did you get your AIO insert? Link to comment
spectra Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Good to see another DIY project. I have built a few stands over the years and love the idea. My ne Versa I purchased is going to get a DIY stand also as I am just in love with the factory model. Just remember to get a little thin rubber pad to put under the tank just like the IM has. It will help even it out if not level. Not sure on the dimensions of the stand but if just a little bigger you can always bring the skin up a inch or so and hide the bottom of the tank. That way you could put a piece of 1/4 or 3/8s foam under it. Looks like a good start! Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 If it isn't to off you can sand it to make it more level. Where did you get your AIO insert? Don't have it or the tank yet. Planning on getting the tank from a pet store nearby and having MrReefer81 build the insert. Good to see another DIY project. I have built a few stands over the years and love the idea. My ne Versa I purchased is going to get a DIY stand also as I am just in love with the factory model. Just remember to get a little thin rubber pad to put under the tank just like the IM has. It will help even it out if not level. Not sure on the dimensions of the stand but if just a little bigger you can always bring the skin up a inch or so and hide the bottom of the tank. That way you could put a piece of 1/4 or 3/8s foam under it. Looks like a good start! Yup, I'll get a rubber pad for under the tank as well as something to put between the stand and floor. Not that the stand is going to be moved, but I don't want it scratching the hardwood floors. BF thinks I should skin the stand in birch. He says it looks good, and is nice to work with. I guess I need to decide how I want the finished project to look. I've just been preoccupied with getting the frame made! Link to comment
spectra Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Birch is a nice lite wood and looks nice. I used it as infill for my panels I needed on my Fusion stand. Plus it was not to expensive at my local plywood store. I try to use solid wood if I can but that does not happen all the time. What is the final color you are going for? Are you going to stain or paint? Link to comment
seanoli Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Love the idea of a 24x24 shallow. Good luck! Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 What is the final color you are going for? Are you going to stain or paint? I dunno!! Link to comment
spectra Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Just remember if going to paint it you can get away with almost any smooth wood. Stain well that is another story.... I used poplar for mine with birch for the panels as I was going black with the stain and you could not tell when it was done. I also think my top was something else as it was a Ikea counter top. Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Not going well. I'm having an awful time getting these joints to stay even. I'm either weak or my BFs tools suck because I can't get the screws to go in nicely. I'm about to give up. I've only spent $20 on wood so far. However, any pre-made stands have no back (meant for sump plumbing), and I need it to have a back. So id have a $200 stand that I would then need to modify. Other option is to find someone to make it for me. No idea how much this would cost or how I would even find someone to do this... Humpf... Link to comment
Pinner Reef Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Not going well. I'm having an awful time getting these joints to stay even. I'm either weak or my BFs tools suck because I can't get the screws to go in nicely. I'm about to give up. I've only spent $20 on wood so far. However, any pre-made stands have no back (meant for sump plumbing), and I need it to have a back. So id have a $200 stand that I would then need to modify. Other option is to find someone to make it for me. No idea how much this would cost or how I would even find someone to do this... Humpf... Have you tried drilling guide holes for the screws? Link to comment
spectra Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Are you pre drilling any holes? That might help. Pre made stands are junk Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Are you pre drilling any holes? That might help. Pre made stands are junk Yup. Pre drilling. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Very strange that they aren't going together well with predrilling. Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 These are the screws I'm using with regular old 2x4's: These are the drills. Sorry I don't have the bits on them. Every time I finish for a minute, BF puts everything away. Then I have to ask him for the bits again, because I don't know what he's giving me to use or how to put them in the drill. I use the left one to pre-drill and the right one to screw. This joint was the first one I did. Even/flat, but with a small gap - you can see the concrete floor... Here's another. No gap, but it's got a little "lip" to it. Most of my joints have this lip or a gap or both if I'm unlucky. I just can't seem to get things to be perfect like I think they need to be. This was the last one I did before I quit. I couldn't even get the screw in. This is with me resting the 2x4 on the ground, holding it between my legs, and pressing down on the drill, while pulling the trigger as much as I can while being careful that the bit doesn't spin out of control. It's been hard to get ALL the screws in. This is just where I finally said #### it and threw everything in the corner. What am I doing wrong?!? Link to comment
holy carp Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Could it be that the pilot hole you're drilling is too small in diameter? Or possibly not drilled deep enough? You don't want it to be too small of a hole, even though it feels secure. It's not only harder to drive the screw, but also down the road changes in the moisture content of the wood can cause splitting. Here's a suggested chart for bit selection for pilot holes for wood screws from Bolt Depot: Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Get some of these screws: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-9-x-2-1-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Multi-Material-Screw-116-per-Pack-4191020450606/202040971 The come in boxes, are inexpensive and super strong, and also come with a new bit in every box. #9 screws are a bit thinner than the #8 you're using but still very strong, require a smaller pilot hole. Are you clamping the two pieces together, drilling, running the screw in, and then removing the clamp? Not having the pieces pushed all the way together will cause a gap, and not having them clamped can cause the screw to decide to go all screwy and can twist the board. Link to comment
jamescstein Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 tbh with you those joints don't look too bad. One thing you have to realize is you are working with rough lumber and not 'furniture' grade planed wood where your cuts are 100% square and you wood is perfectly square as well. +1 on the pilot hole size. You really want the pilot hole to be as big as the shank of the screw so that the only pressure/bite on the wood is from the teeth of the screw. If you are having trouble screwing them in then your pilot hole is too small. Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Get some of these screws: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-9-x-2-1-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Multi-Material-Screw-116-per-Pack-4191020450606/202040971 The come in boxes, are inexpensive and super strong, and also come with a new bit in every box. #9 screws are a bit thinner than the #8 you're using but still very strong, require a smaller pilot hole. Are you clamping the two pieces together, drilling, running the screw in, and then removing the clamp? Not having the pieces pushed all the way together will cause a gap, and not having them clamped can cause the screw to decide to go all screwy and can twist the board. Yes, clamp, drill, screw. Though I also think the clamp is too small cause it doesn't feel very secure. tbh with you those joints don't look too bad. Even with gaps? I guess I figured being a little "off" would be ok, but gaps would be bad. Link to comment
holy carp Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 The screws that JediMB linked to will also help with your gaps. They have a longer smooth (unthreaded) shank near the head which should reach clear through your top 2x4 and be able to spin. That way when it's tightened, the threads will be in the bottom 2x4 only and pull it up nice and snug. If the threads are still in the top 2x4 (like your current screws probably are), you can't tighten it the same way and any gap that forms when the tip of the screw goes from the top 2x4 to the lower one will remain. (be aware that those are Torx, not phillips heads, so you may need a different bit for the drill to screw them in) That being said, James is right - that lumber is not to exacting specifications, but it will be OK when you put some paneling around it. Just make sure your top is level. Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Boyfriend to the rescue! He manhandled it for me and in the process broke 6 drill bits (thanks, Harbor Freight) but it's all framed out now. I'm still not sure what the real issue was... Too small of a corner clamp? Too small of a drill bit? Too weak of a drill? Warped wood? Did I make angled cuts? In the end, it's mostly flat (hard to tell on the concrete in the garage) very sturdy, and I can stand on it just fine. Now it's time to fine tune how I want the shelf/cubby to look. After seeing the finished project I have determined two things: 1. The door and litter box access will take place on the left side. 2. There will be room or electronics and wires ONLY in the cubby. How many plugs do you think I will need?? 1. Return pump 2. Circulation pump 3. Fuge Light 4. NanoBox Light 5. NanoBox Fan 6. BlueFish Controller 7. Tablet for BlueFish 8. Skimmer 9. Heater (for winter) 10. Fan (for summer) 11. Temperature Controller (?) 12. ATO 13. Cabinet Light x2 (in litter box portion and cable portion) 14. Cabinet Fan x2 (in litter box portion and cable portion) Link to comment
kimberbee Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks for all the help erry'body. We double checked the pilot hole drill and put a new battery in both drills, which helped. But it also turns out I'm weak and have short arms. It turned into a two person job with my boyfriend drilling and screwing, while I used my body weight to hold everything, flat, level, and in place. Dude needs a few more quality tools in his garage. I still can't believe we broke 6 drill bits... Link to comment
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