Best way to remove GHA without also removing coralline algae?

[Simulated Fish]

Hey guys,

 

I currently have a bit of a GHA outbreak going on - nothing crazy that is overtaking the tank, just what is to be expected with a new tank. Unfortunately I also have coralline algae growing side by side. Is there any way to remove the GHA without also scraping off of coralline algae that's forming? I really would like to keep the coralline algae on the back my tank because I really like the natural look.

 

Any tips are appreciated! Thank you in advance.

[Mojado]

Put some Mexican Turbo snails in there. They'll eat that stuff up. If there's a patch you really want them to start on, put them right in front of the patch.

[HarryPotter]

Hey guys,

 

I currently have a bit of a GHA outbreak going on - nothing crazy that is overtaking the tank, just what is to be expected with a new tank. Unfortunately I also have coralline algae growing side by side. Is there any way to remove the GHA without also scraping off of coralline algae that's forming? I really would like to keep the coralline algae on the back my tank because I really like the natural look.

 

Any tips are appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Manual removal... Or use a toothbrush lightly.

[Simulated Fish]

Put some Mexican Turbo snails in there. They'll eat that stuff up. If there's a patch you really want them to start on, put them right in front of the patch.

Although I do prefer the natural method by introducing another species because my tank so small, 8 gal, and I don't have anything secured I feel like once a green hair algae is gone that turbo snail won't live long on top of bulldozing my setup.

 

Manual removal... Or use a toothbrush lightly.

Yeah that is what I have been doing. Doing my best to remove what pops up and avoid the Coralline but man they are just best buds!

[HarryPotter]

Although I do prefer the natural method by introducing another species because my tank so small, 8 gal, and I don't have anything secured I feel like once a green hair algae is gone that turbo snail won't live long on top of bulldozing my setup.

 

 

Yeah that is what I have been doing. Doing my best to remove what pops up and avoid the Coralline but man they are just best buds!

Best way is to find out what is causing the algae growth. Too much phosphate? Excess nutrients? Too long light cycle?

 

When you get the cause under control it'll be much easier.

[Simulated Fish]

Best way is to find out what is causing the algae growth. Too much phosphate? Excess nutrients? Too long light cycle?

 

When you get the cause under control it'll be much easier.

 

I have always been told a new tank is going to get a bloom of algae no mater what but TBH I have never argued that fact.

 

My guess is :

 

A ) light cycle - my wife is pregnant and forgets to turn of the lights, so they do tend to run for to long. I am getting timers today after work so that stops and the corals don't get stressed form inconsistent light cycles.

 

B )Phosphate - I have no filtration for this - yet - I got my intank MB in the mail about a week ago and have been slowly removing my bioballs to be safe. I plan on running floss -> Carbon -> GFO (maybe chempure? I still can find a persuading argument other than I wont be tumbling the GFO)

 

As for nutrients I use reefcrack every other day only as much as my clown can eat in 5 min. He/she does leave behind a small cloud of debris but that is the point of the product so it also feeds my: two peppermints, two red leg herms, brisle worms, fan tube worms, and a very health microbio. So far no one has shown signs of under/over feeding.

 

I realize I am very luck and my tank is running amazingly for my first reef since I was a kid - the GHA is my only real problem! Corals are super happy and growing, I've had no die-off, Tanks been up 6 weeks and I have coralline growing and even some awesome hitchhikers! I can't even count my beginners luck with this little 8 gal!!

[brandon429]

The best way to handle low level algae growth is to change nothing about water params reactively and simply kill the algae so many ways exist

 

 

Nutrient adjustments should be done when there is no algae, not reactively which is why we haven't made progress as a hobby for 30 yrs in algae issues. Well some have

 

Don't use nutrients to remove algae, use less nutrients to prevent its return after you removed it. If waters test decent dont jack with it just kill the algae

 

By using these tenets we have corrected prob five thou algae prob tanks across maybe three threads for easy review.

 

Post full tank shot

 

Nutrients matter, but in their correct place. Reefs in Fiji are better water than we w ever get yet grazers live there and feed on something that grows in pristine water, algae grows where nutrients are not out of line is the point and that as much as 60% of algae issues are from tanks with no nutrient issues, says the big threads that fix GHA tanks. You can kill it and be algae free in 48 hrs, or leave it in and play your chances with what the public does that is not shown in giant tank fix threads, that's the hit or miss game. Our game is 48 hrs heh

[vi3tboi7i4]

An Emerald crab will do the job. I purchased one a month ago and not a single GHA was present ever since.

[Simulated Fish]

The best way to handle low level algae growth is to change nothing about water params reactively and simply kill the algae so many ways exist

Nutrient adjustments should be done when there is no algae, not reactively which is why we haven't made progress as a hobby for 30 yrs in algae issues. Well some have

Don't use nutrients to remove algae, use less nutrients to prevent its return after you removed it. If waters test decent dont jack with it just kill the algae

By using these tenets we have corrected prob five thou algae prob tanks across maybe three threads for easy review.

Post full tank shot

Nutrients matter, but in their correct place. Reefs in Fiji are better water than we w ever get yet grazers live there and feed on something that grows in pristine water, algae grows where nutrients are not out of line is the point and that as much as 60% of algae issues are from tanks with no nutrient issues, says the big threads that fix GHA tanks. You can kill it and be algae free in 48 hrs, or leave it in and play your chances with what the public does that is not shown in giant tank fix threads, that's the hit or miss game. Our game is 48 hrs heh

 

Brandon429 I agree and have been removing what pops up about every other day on my tank walls there is a small patch on one of my rocks that I haven't been able to get to due to my corals and wonder if that is the seed which is seeding the tank with growth.

 

Could you explain what you mean by "Don't use nutrients to remove algae, use less nutrients to prevent its return after you removed it."?

 

I will post up a FTS when I get home sir.

 

An Emerald crab will do the job. I purchased one a month ago and not a single GHA was present ever since.

I would prefer a crab to a snail purely on my personal tastes. Don't they tend to munch on softies though? Also would he be able to get at the side of rocks or do they strictly stay on the sand bed?

 

 

Thanks again guys for the input I really value your opinions!

[brandon429]

Well I was meaning we want your tank in the peroxide thread in the disease and pest forum (or here is fine) and the algae w die in 48 hours and you will have some self regret in killing it and breaking a four month chase down to two days since the rules of reefing say don't do anything fast

 

Avoid the method if 48 hrs is too fast, it is for many.

 

You can also use other cell lysing chems such as Kent tech m, not as a tank additive, as a spot treat on the algae when it's not underwater. The think point is not about a chem its about simple disallowance and if someone knows a no chem way to get same ends in 48 hours then go to town and post

 

 

Anything I'm typing, hinting or alluding to has that eventual invite regarding fix the algae yesterday

 

 

The crab is a fine reco from vit3

 

See pico reefs forum Andens pico reef, he just used one to hit back some brushy algae. My advice comes from a simple rule we use to fix pico tanks on up to 300 gallon sps tanks: kill the first time you see it then do action X

 

 

When you see algae kill it

 

Then adjust your nutrients or your cuc so they are preventers not removers

The crab might also be a good remover, for some they aren't, our way is about being deliberate. The other ways are about trial that's all. Just options.

 

 

Our rule that pre fixes every problem algae tank is use an algaecide on the algae so it dies, manual removal redistributes it for other growth areas, but actual cell killing kills it. Then your crabs and nutrient controls are added when no algae is there, to prevent grow back. They can eat tank food like any other creature until algae comes back and they can go after it hopefully

 

I'm also saying after pics that I think you have no nutrient issues and trying to use po4 detailing is a risky catch up game that bleaches corals if not careful and it takes months, it violates the rule if algae is left in place for any reason, since the option exists to kill it in 48 hours.

 

Many don't want to cheat burn it and that's ok, a months long chase is where we all start

 

After losing a tank and $$ to algae, I've no trouble convincing people on $$ round two to consider algae dealings in a different light. Your tank is in pre loss stage so I pounced. Not saying typical algae growth in a new tank is loss for sure, I'm saying all the real problem tanks were once at your stage and they all did something similar to get to the wrecked phase, they simply broke the primary rule we then applied years later to fix their tank. Could've been done in 48 hrs yrs ago and not as a fix, but as a preventative.

 

This way is not the best way it's just an option, to not have algae in 48 hours.

[brandon429]

haven't treated my tank for green hair algae in yrs not months and have no idea what any param in my reef tank is for fifteen years other than temp and salinity, those are the two reef test kits owned. I have no clean up crew of any kind. My reef is immune to any invasion whatsoever. Deliberate

 

 

 

It is perfectly acceptable and fine to forego direct kill and try the commoner methods. Our stopgap is so powerful you can wield it along the way when enough is enough

 

 

 

at least you now have the final say on when to stop your algae vs experiment with it, our way doesn't have to be first go if people want to keep the algae in the tank for one reason or another. Spot killing will both prevent and treat retroactively GHA issues so it's an ace in the hole no prob.

[vi3tboi7i4]

I would prefer a crab to a snail purely on my personal tastes. Don't they tend to munch on softies though? Also would he be able to get at the side of rocks or do they strictly stay on the sand bed?

 

 

 

No my emerald doesnt do anything to my softies. They got all over the place and not just the sandbed.