Steensj2004 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Welp, I have decided to embark on an adventure today, decided to try my hand at a live culture. If this works out, I may venture into another type of live food as well. Starting with MysisBrine Shrimp, cause I can do what I want. The plan is as follows: Hatchery: -DIY Hatchery: Decided to go with the 2-liter bottle method of . I have been reading about this for weeks and cannot find a reason ANYWHERE( even from specialty sites) that indicates the need to spend 20.00+ on a per-manufactured Hatchery. -Common Desk Lamp: Also, all that is needed from research to hatch these little buggers -Air Source: Ridged airline to the bottom hooked to a central airpump that will also be running the culture tank. Grow-out Tank: -Deep Blue Tank: Having a hard time deciding between a 2.5 and 5 gallon. TBD -Lighting: Will be a simple Deep Blue LED they sell at a local chain store, just need a decent light source according to research. -Heater: Basic, cheap, enough to keep dah water @ 76-78 degrees . -Air Pump: Undecided brand, but it will be large as I will run a manifold for the sponge filter, air-stone in grow-out tank, and also want to be able to supply the Hatchery as needed. -Filtration: Air driven Sponge Filter, going the DIY route. I want something a little different than what can be purchased per-manufactured. Will consist of : 1/2" PVC Pipe for stack( Holes drilled for intake 1/2" end cap (silicone to base) 1- 5" Ceramic Tile for base 1-2 Large Foam filter blocks 1-90 degree elbow to direct flow 1- Airstone I will also be running a large air stone the length of the tank to aid in suspending spirulina powder and Selcon for gut loading when ( and if) they reach maturity. Considering a bar type. Some seasoned 1water will be used from my tank during a water change water change, and filter foam will sit in sump for a while to hopefully culture some bacteria. Salinity target is 1.026-1.028 opinions vary on this, I'll have to experiment. *Food will vary, I've read people feed them powdered milk and all kinds of crazy stuff as they are none selective filter feeders. My plans are as follows: -Spirulina Powder( tons of sources for this in bulk) -Assorted prepared foods for filter feeders -Selcon to gut load at some point * There are varying windows for gut loading, starting after ( at least from reading) around 48 hours after hatching to 3-weeks( adults), will have to play with this some. All have varying results as well as varying nutritional values based on fat content as well as other nutritional value. I don't recall all the details so you can look that shiz up yo-self! Hope to get this up and running ASAP. I am still doing some research, but think I have my direction planned out as of now. Suggestions from anyone who has tried this appreciated. If I can make this work, I will be trying a divided, larger tank at some point( or maybe two tanks) so I can space out cultures and play around. Hop on board! Link to comment
Merthynia Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Wow, this sounds really well thought out. I'd love to see your set-up once you have it going. Are you planning on attempting to sell some of the extra? I find it interesting that powdered milk is an option to feed these guys. I wonder if that would help whatever ate that mysis intake a little more calcium (LPS, anything with a skeleton). It seems like a really fun side project. Have you cultured pods or anything of the sort before? One last question, where can you find mysis eggs? I think I've only ever seen brine shrimp eggs available around here. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 And aren't mysids cannibalistic? :/ Link to comment
Merthynia Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 And aren't mysids cannibalistic? :/ Are they? That's kinda creepy. If you kept tons of food available (If you can without hurting the system) perhaps they wouldn't eat each other? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Are they? That's kinda creepy. If you kept tons of food available (If you can without hurting the system) perhaps they wouldn't eat each other? No, doesn't have to do with how much they're fed, it's density related. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/9/breeder Also, steensy, I don't think I'd bother much with DIY sponge filters, they're so cheap to buy, here are 4x for $10 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Bio-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Betta-Fry-Double-Sponge-S-XY-2831-/251697943891?hash=item3a9a5dd553 They're the same ones I use in my QT tank as the biofilter. I just leave one in my display's sump, and when I start up QT I take it out and put it in, then place another new into the sump to start seeding it. Link to comment
Merthynia Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 No, doesn't have to do with how much they're fed, it's density related. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/9/breeder Also, steensy, I don't think I'd bother much with DIY sponge filters, they're so cheap to buy, here are 4x for $10 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Bio-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Betta-Fry-Double-Sponge-S-XY-2831-/251697943891?hash=item3a9a5dd553 They're the same ones I use in my QT tank as the biofilter. I just leave one in my display's sump, and when I start up QT I take it out and put it in, then place another new into the sump to start seeding it. Wow, that was very informative. I never gave much thought to the little mysis that I feed my fish. Thanks Ben! Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 No, doesn't have to do with how much they're fed, it's density related. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/9/breeder Also, steensy, I don't think I'd bother much with DIY sponge filters, they're so cheap to buy, here are 4x for $10 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Bio-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Betta-Fry-Double-Sponge-S-XY-2831-/251697943891?hash=item3a9a5dd553 They're the same ones I use in my QT tank as the biofilter. I just leave one in my display's sump, and when I start up QT I take it out and put it in, then place another new into the sump to start seeding it. It's a numbers game I think, tons of people raise them to adulthood or near. Not sure, trying anyway. I also have most the stuff I need to build the filter, also want some specific features premade don't have. I'll mull it over though. Thanks for the info, lots to consider. Link to comment
vlangel Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Welp, I have decided to embark on an adventure today, decided to try my hand at a live culture. If this works out, I may venture into another type of live food as well. Starting with Mysis, cause I can do what I want. The plan is as follows: Hatchery: -DIY Hatchery: Decided to go with the 2-liter bottle method of . I have been reading about this for weeks and cannot find a reason ANYWHERE( even from specialty sites) that indicates the need to spend 20.00+ on a per-manufactured Hatchery. -Common Desk Lamp: Also, all that is needed from research to hatch these little buggers -Air Source: Ridged airline to the bottom hooked to a central airpump that will also be running the culture tank. Grow-out Tank: -Deep Blue Tank: Having a hard time deciding between a 2.5 and 5 gallon. TBD -Lighting: Will be a simple Deep Blue LED they sell at a local chain store, just need a decent light source according to research. -Heater: Basic, cheap, enough to keep dah water @ 76-78 degrees . -Air Pump: Undecided brand, but it will be large as I will run a manifold for the sponge filter, air-stone in grow-out tank, and also want to be able to supply the Hatchery as needed. -Filtration: Air driven Sponge Filter, going the DIY route. I want something a little different than what can be purchased per-manufactured. Will consist of : 1/2" PVC Pipe for stack( Holes drilled for intake 1/2" end cap (silicone to base) 1- 5" Ceramic Tile for base 1-2 Large Foam filter blocks 1-90 degree elbow to direct flow 1- Airstone I will also be running a large air stone the length of the tank to aid in suspending spirulina powder and Selcon for gut loading when ( and if) they reach maturity. Considering a bar type. Some seasoned 1water will be used from my tank during a water change water change, and filter foam will sit in sump for a while to hopefully culture some bacteria. Salinity target is 1.026-1.028 opinions vary on this, I'll have to experiment. *Food will vary, I've read people feed them powdered milk and all kinds of crazy stuff as they are none selective filter feeders. My plans are as follows: -Spirulina Powder( tons of sources for this in bulk) -Assorted prepared foods for filter feeders -Selcon to gut load at some point * There are varying windows for gut loading, starting after ( at least from reading) around 48 hours after hatching to 3-weeks( adults), will have to play with this some. All have varying results as well as varying nutritional values based on fat content as well as other nutritional value. I don't recall all the details so you can look that shiz up yo-self! Hope to get this up and running ASAP. I am still doing some research, but think I have my direction planned out as of now. Suggestions from anyone who has tried this appreciated. If I can make this work, I will be trying a divided, larger tank at some point( or maybe two tanks) so I can space out cultures and play around. Hop on board! I am not sure how closely related ghost shrimp are to mysid shrimp but I have actually cultured some ghost shrimp recently accidently. I keep my feeder ghost shrimp in a 5.5g tank in front of a window, filled with water I changed out of my system plus tap water to modify the salinity to about .017. My seahorse fuge needs the macro algae harvested from time to time so I just throw that in the ghost shrimp tank because I am too frugal to throw it away. My seahorses won't eat a ghost shrimp bigger than 1" so I just left those in the tank. Now 6 weeks later I am finding little ghost shrimp again so the big ones must have spawned. Like you I can gut load the shrimp with Dan's feed, cyclopese, spiraling powder, Artemia cysts or whatever. It's working out pretty well and if they are fed they don't seem to cannibalize each other. O yeah, I forgot to say that I have a sponge filter in a HOB pump but their water only needs infrequent WCs. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 It's a numbers game I think, tons of people raise them to adulthood or near. Not sure, trying anyway. I also have most the stuff I need to build the filter, also want some specific features premise don't have. I'll kill it over though. Thanks for the info, lots to consider. No worries man. You skipped the 'easy' culture stuff like phyto and went headfirst into the difficult stuff Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 No worries man. You skipped the 'easy' culture stuff like phyto and went headfirst into the difficult stuff Right! Cause I gots balls! But seriously, I can at least culture them for a few days and gut load them. I've watched and read a lot, lots of people doing it in buckets easily, I might run two hatcheries and a larger tank. Fingers crossed, if all else fails I can used the setup for pods or phytoplankton!! Based on hatch rate, minus say 65-75% cannibalism rate, I'm still looking at a few Hundo fine, gut loaded treats for mah tank..... Hopefully Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 Decided to pull the trigger on a prebuilt sponge filter, Ben was right, I'm not filtering a reef tank here. Ben,do you think those ones on eBay will work well enough, concerned with the dual arms and how they actually function. Edit: meh, eff it. Ordered em already. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Decided to pull the trigger on a prebuilt sponge filter, Ben was right, I'm not filtering a reef tank here. Ben,do you think those ones on eBay will work well enough, concerned with the dual arms and how they actually function. Edit: meh, eff it. Ordered em already. Just hook up a strong enough air pump and you won't need to worry about anything, the air creates a suction and pulls water through the sponges on the arms and up through the center tube. As they get clogged with detritus, all you have to do is squeeze them a few times and they'll start flowing well again. Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Just hook up a strong enough air pump and you won't need to worry about anything, the air creates a suction and pulls water through the sponges on the arms and up through the center tube. As they get clogged with detritus, all you have to do is squeeze them a few times and they'll start flowing well again. More supplies tomorrow, pics to come! Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Ben, care to suggest a air pump to run a sponge filter, bubble a hatchery, and a 6" bar airstone off a manifold? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Ben, care to suggest a air pump to run a sponge filter, bubble a hatchery, and a 6" bar airstone off a manifold? A big'un. I use a Tetra Whisper 40 to run the one in my QT, and it does a decent job (if I didn't already have it, I would have probably gotten the 60 model). I would go with either the Whisper 100 or step up to the big boy and get the AP150. The 100 is $22 and the AP150 is $33. I think you'd be fine with the 100, but if you want to expand, or maybe add a phyto culture or something, then the 150 would probably suit you better. Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 A big'un. I use a Tetra Whisper 40 to run the one in my QT, and it does a decent job (if I didn't already have it, I would have probably gotten the 60 model). I would go with either the Whisper 100 or step up to the big boy and get the AP150. The 100 is $22 and the AP150 is $33. I think you'd be fine with the 100, but if you want to expand, or maybe add a phyto culture or something, then the 150 would probably suit you better. Sweet! Thanks! Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Changed my mind and have decided to go for Brine Shrimp instead for now, easier, faster, and less chance of failure. Also, getting live adult shrimp to even try and start Mysis would be a PITA seeing as nobody has them locally. anyway, ONWARD! Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Let the games begin! On a positive note, the LFS I went by for this stuff has live brine, no need to hatch. I can grab some live adults and culture my own for now. I would buy regularly but they're expensive as hell at the atore( and its 30 min away. I'll be able to drop down a pump size and readjust my setup, save me some money. Ordered some special foods and selcon too. Excited! Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Progress. Bottom and back of tank painted, now to setup tonight! Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Dry: All setup minus the foam filter and air pump. The air pump I got is WAAAY to big, gonna return and get a size smaller. I might be able to get the first batch up and running this weekend, I suppose the air filter can be added Monday when they arrive. Right now the setup consists of the following: 1-2.5 Gallon Tank 1- Air manifold 1-6" Airstone 1- Thermometer -Hand fill of Airline Holders If Ben( or anyone else) Is still lurking around, do you thing the Whisper 60 is to much?Will only be running 1 airstone and the filter for now, might tumble some eggs later down the line..... Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 Up and Running, Waiting on the Filter though. Bring added! Lights I bought to light up dah tank: Wanted to run some carbon. Found this @ LFS, has little basket with carbon baggie inside! So I modified it! Only have one light up right now, need a power strip. Currently feeding Phytofeast 2x daily( 5 drops). Will adjust as needed. Also hop bubbles will calm down when filter is tanking up some air. Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Just hook up a strong enough air pump and you won't need to worry about anything, the air creates a suction and pulls water through the sponges on the arms and up through the center tube. As they get clogged with detritus, all you have to do is squeeze them a few times and they'll start flowing well again. Ben, do these filters require an airstone nor are they complete as is? Description is pretty vague Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Ben, do these filters require an airstone nor are they complete as is? Description is pretty vague No, no airstone, they have a spot to hook the airline directly into. Link to comment
jamescstein Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 You can get them with 1 filter instead of 2 as well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009V3UGDS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1W7R5UJZCLN8X Link to comment
Steensj2004 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 You can get them with 1 filter instead of 2 as well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009V3UGDS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1W7R5UJZCLN8X One filter?! Ain't nobody got time for that!! Kidding, might actually need a single if this dual is to big. Thanks! Link to comment
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