Jump to content
ReefCleaners.org

How to skin tank stand for non-woodworkers?


ps2cho

Recommended Posts

I am planning a house move soon and want to rebuild my stand to fit a bigger sump under.

 

I basically did such a poor job on skinning this stand that I want to know if someone can state the basics.

 

What type of wood? How to get it cut cleanly? How to stain it?

best tools to use? Anything I could have missed and do but better this time.

 

I see so many threads from people with no woodworking experience and the stands look incredible! Mine just looks poorly done.

Link to comment

You can use almost any good sanded plywood really. I know my local Lowes has maple in 1/4 inch for 25 bucks a sheet or so. That would take a stain really good also. I used birch I think on mine as I went black and did not really care that it matched the poplar I used. Just get a decent plywood blade for your skill saw and all should be good.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment

Poplar boards and rustoleum paint is what I used on too of my 2x4 stand. Check out my buuild thread to see how I did it. Also you can make a skill saw guide using any long straight edge. Just clamp it down on whatever you are cutting and use it as a guide

1/2" poplar by the way. 1/4" will bend

Oh and sand it down and fill nail holes with putty. Then sand that down real well and then paint

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Make marks on ply and clam a level or other straight edge to it on both ends then run the saw down it. Make sure to measure your marks and compensate for the distance from saw guide to blade on my saw its 1-1/2" so if I wanted to cut a 4" strip of wood I'd lock my straight edge down at 5-1/2". Also you could consider building with plywood and skinning it with Formica. It's wicked easy to use and water doesn't bother it. Cuts real easy with straight edge and a scoring tool. I use the ones they sell for scoring cement board. Then just snap it roll some glue on the ply and stick it on.

Link to comment

If purely a skin go with thin stuff. I generally cut to rough size on the table saw (but any saw will do even a handsaw) and then skin the stand. I use Titebond glue and shoot a few pin nails along the edges (will be covered with molding later). I clean up the over sized skin (1/8 inch or so) ply with a flush trim router bit. I then usually make moldings to finish everything off but store bought are fine. Moldings I use nails and then fill holes with a good filler. Easy process to get good results for most even with limited skill set. I used cherry veneer plywood and went with no stain (I just let the sun do its job) and sealed with a brush on poly on the stand below (yes the frame is way overbuilt).

 

IM000330.jpg

 

IM000522.jpg

Link to comment

How can you cut a straight line with a skill saw?

Don't, just have Lowes, HD, etc. cut the sheet for you.

 

I used 1/2" birch, stained it with Kona and used a Helmsman spar varnish.

 

Just follow the directions on the stain, usually it involves applying the stain with a brush and then removing the excess. The longer you let stain set on the wood the more of the stain it'll absorb.

 

I used 2x4 to build my stand but that's overkill, if I had to do it again I would have used 1x4 or 1x6.

Link to comment

How can you cut a straight line with a skill saw?

Use a straight edge (use a 1x2 board)and two clamps to clamp it to the board you want to cut.

 

What you do is draw a line you want to cut using your straight edge and two clamps. Then measure the distance between the saw blade and the edge of the guard on the skill saw (please make sure the saw is unplugged). . .make sure you're on the right side of the blade (i.e. you account for the blade thickness).

 

Then, clamp your straight edge that measured distance from your line. You'll cut EXACTLY where you want and have factory-straight cuts EVERY TIME.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...