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Low(ish) Alkalinity With New Tank (Salifert tested)


Ryan_E

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So as the title says, my alk is on the lower end.

 

Current Water Parameters:

 

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 5 ppm

Calcium: >500

Alkalinity: 7 dkh

PH: 7.8

Magnesium: no test

 

I am using Salifert tests for calcium and alkalinity. API for the rest.

 

My tank is approximately 2 months old with a small bioload. 45 gallons with two fire fish and a small zoa frag with 8 polyps. I noticed my zoas started closing up more often so I bought alk and calcium tests. My alkalinity was at 8dkh the first day (same day as water change). About a week later, it is down to the low 7's. Normal? I tried dosing Seachem Fusion 2 the last three days, and it has seemed to have no effect on my alkalinity at all? Is this a case where a buffer may actually help get my alkalinity to a higher number?

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HarryPotter

So as the title says, my alk is on the lower end.

 

Current Water Parameters:

 

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 5 ppm

Calcium: >500

Alkalinity: 7 dkh

PH: 7.8

Magnesium: no test

 

I am using Salifert tests for calcium and alkalinity. API for the rest.

 

My tank is approximately 2 months old with a small bioload. 45 gallons with two fire fish and a small zoa frag with 8 polyps. I noticed my zoas started closing up more often so I bought alk and calcium tests. My alkalinity was at 8dkh the first day (same day as water change). About a week later, it is down to the low 7's. Normal? I tried dosing Seachem Fusion 2 the last three days, and it has seemed to have no effect on my alkalinity at all? Is this a case where a buffer may actually help get my alkalinity to a higher number?

 

My favorite piece of advice: "When in doubt, go a good water change"

 

Do you have a picture of the Zoas? It could be a pest or disease bothering them rather than the KH. Zoas are softies, relatively tolerant to those parameters.

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My favorite piece of advice: "When in doubt, go a good water change"

 

Do you have a picture of the Zoas? It could be a pest or disease bothering them rather than the KH. Zoas are softies, relatively tolerant to those parameters.

That's what I figured and have always heard. It was actually the reason I bought them. A cheap frag just to see if I could keep it alive. I figured I should start testing the other parameters because I plan on adding some more coral(s) soon. Thinking a torch, trumpet, or candycane. I'll have to try and get a picture of the zoas tomorrow during the day when they open up. I have been inspecting them daily, and I haven't noticed any critter or anything on them. I have noticed that there are three baby polyps waiting to grow some more and open. Would that have anything to do with it?

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HarryPotter

That's what I figured and have always heard. It was actually the reason I bought them. A cheap frag just to see if I could keep it alive. I figured I should start testing the other parameters because I plan on adding some more coral(s) soon. Thinking a torch, trumpet, or candycane. I'll have to try and get a picture of the zoas tomorrow during the day when they open up. I have been inspecting them daily, and I haven't noticed any critter or anything on them. I have noticed that there are three baby polyps waiting to grow some more and open. Would that have anything to do with it?

 

Would the baby polyps cause the (adult) polyps to stay closed? No.

Are there white spots on the stems or top?

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Would the baby polyps cause the (adult) polyps to stay closed? No.

Are there white spots on the stems or top?

No white spots that I have noticed. The only thing I have noticed is that one of the polyps does not have the blueish/greyish outer tissue on the upper part of the stalk. It looks lighter. Almost a white/cream color. I only see it when that particular polyp is halfway open.

 

Also, what is the app that you said you found for taking better pictures? I have an iPhone.

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How much fusion are you dosing? Ph needs to come up too, you using a meter or is that the API test too? You have much surface agitation on your water? Shouldn't really be anything taking up that much alk.

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How much fusion are you dosing? Ph needs to come up too, you using a meter or is that the API test too? You have much surface agitation on your water? Shouldn't really be anything taking up that much alk.

I divided the max dose for 6.5 gallons into my total water volume (50 gallons). That is between 7-8 times the 6.5 gallon max dose. So I did that for three days with no change in alk. My ph test is an API, my alk test is a Salifert. I have a bunch of surface agitation going on. I am using Instant Ocean Salt.

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I would be patient as it is a new tank that is still maturing. I would ignore the ph reading at this stage as many things could effect it...i.e. CO2 levels within a house can severely effect ph levels. People often chase ph with buffers, make things worse, only to find out that the CO2 levels are dropping their ph.

 

Water can also become acidic from a maturing biological process.

 

My ph was always low (somerimes as low as 7.60 in the morning), until I attached a CO2 scrubber, then the ph went up and all other related levels normalized.

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I would be patient as it is a new tank that is still maturing. I would ignore the ph reading at this stage as many things could effect it...i.e. CO2 levels within a house can severely effect ph levels. People often chase ph with buffers, make things worse, only to find out that the CO2 levels are dropping their ph.

 

Water can also become acidic from a maturing biological process.

 

My ph was always low (somerimes as low as 7.60 in the morning), until I attached a CO2 scrubber, then the ph went up and all other related levels normalized.

I am not really concerned about my PH. I know not to chase it. More concerned about my low alkalinity(even though they are related).

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I am not really concerned about my PH, there's a difference in chasing it and fixing a problem. . I know not to chase it. More concerned about my low alkalinity(even though they are related).

I wasn't saying to chase your ph, there's a difference between chasing it and fixing a problem. There has to be a reason that it is so low. PH and Alk have a big affect on each other.

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My 15g ran 7.7 for a while when I was running the lid on my tank. I figured adding my protein skimmer would help but it didn't. I removed the lid and increased the surface agitation and it stays a 8.17 now and my alk look much better too.

 

I dont really see how you can say that you aren't worried about the ph if it is closely related to your alk reading. I'd get something different than the the api test to read your ph. A good meter will be a lot more handy. I have a API and the number differences in the colors are huge jumps. No way they can be really accurate.

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My 15g ran 7.7 for a while when I was running the lid on my tank. I figured adding my protein skimmer would help but it didn't. I removed the lid and increased the surface agitation and it stays a 8.17 now and my alk look much better too.

 

I dont really see how you can say that you aren't worried about the ph if it is closely related to your alk reading. I'd get something different than the the api test to read your ph. A good meter will be a lot more handy. I have a API and the number differences in the colors are huge jumps. No way they can be really accurate.

I guess saying I am worried about my alkalinity level is the same as saying I am worried about my PH level. I tested PH three times today and it read out at 7.8-8 every time. I will try for more surface agitation and see what happens. My zoas suddenly decided to be happy and are fully open again. Even one of the new polyps opened for the first time today. I will eventually buy a reefkeeper or an apex with the ph probe so I won't have to test anymore.

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HarryPotter

I guess saying I am worried about my alkalinity level is the same as saying I am worried about my PH level. I tested PH three times today and it read out at 7.8-8 every time. I will try for more surface agitation and see what happens. My zoas suddenly decided to be happy and are fully open again. Even one of the new polyps opened for the first time today. I will eventually buy a reefkeeper or an apex with the ph probe so I won't have to test anymore.

Heh I have a ReefKeeper Archon (newest model, released recently) with full level 2 accessories for sale- that would help your LH problems! :lol:

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Heh I have a ReefKeeper Archon (newest model, released recently) with full level 2 accessories for sale- that would help your LH problems! :lol:

I'll pass, but thanks man. More than I need/want.

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I guess saying I am worried about my alkalinity level is the same as saying I am worried about my PH level. I tested PH three times today and it read out at 7.8-8 every time. I will try for more surface agitation and see what happens. My zoas suddenly decided to be happy and are fully open again. Even one of the new polyps opened for the first time today. I will eventually buy a reefkeeper or an apex with the ph probe so I won't have to test anymore.

You don't need a controller to monitor ph. I have one of these and I just dip a cup of water out and drop the probe in. One of the best things I've ever bought for my tank. You can even do a DIY alk test that's as accurate or more accurate than many tests out there. And it's way cheaper. You can get cheaper testers out there, I just got a great deal on this one, love this one because you can calibrate it to 4,7, and 10 so you can do your tank and the alk test without recalibration.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-pHTestr-pH-Tester/dp/B0078Q3ZU6

 

Here's the alk test.

 

http://www.reef2reef.com/blog/a-diy-alkalinity-test-by-randy-holmes-farley/

 

Unless you are going to controller your lights and wavemakers I don't really see the point in a controller. I had one on my 90, but I was controlling old power heads and VHOs.

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You don't need a controller to monitor ph. I have one of these and I just dip a cup of water out and drop the probe in. One of the best things I've ever bought for my tank. You can even do a DIY alk test that's as accurate or more accurate than many tests out there. And it's way cheaper. You can get cheaper testers out there, I just got a great deal on this one, love this one because you can calibrate it to 4,7, and 10 so you can do your tank and the alk test without recalibration.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-pHTestr-pH-Tester/dp/B0078Q3ZU6

 

Here's the alk test.

 

http://www.reef2reef.com/blog/a-diy-alkalinity-test-by-randy-holmes-farley/

 

Unless you are going to controller your lights and wavemakers I don't really see the point in a controller. I had one on my 90, but I was controlling old power heads and VHOs.

Thanks! The controller would be something cheaper like an RKL and would be more for controlling fans, heater, and ATO. Just an added bonus having the PH probe. Thanks again.

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