DIY Auto Water Change

July 15, 2015

This not my work but I thought I would share

This guy setup is by far the cheapest and easiest way I found for doing an auto water change system. And it very precise because of the overflow tubes it uses.

Diy genesis renew

Here is a link if your not familiar with the Genesis renew

(https://www.reefs.com/blog/2011/11/15/product-review-genesis-reef-systems-renew-part-1/)

Original thread on nano-reef talking about the Genesis renew

(http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/276219-genesis-reef-system-automatic-water-changer/)

July 15, 2015

So I have two extra heads on my Jebao Doser- think I could start auto-change or its not worth the effort?

I could do like 100ml an hour? I would need to do the math for 5g weekly

July 15, 2015

So I have two extra heads on my Jebao Doser- think I could start auto-change or its not worth the effort?

I could do like 100ml an hour? I would need to do the math for 5g weekly

I recommend it. A auto water change system let you enjoy your tank more and let's you do less maintain. The great thing about this system is that the precision of the system is all depended on how good you cut the overflow tube. For your doser you can hook it up to a container with an over low tube and program it so it overflow the container and then all you need is a timer activated by a Float Switch so once the float switch is trigger it start a count down to let all the extra water flow out down the overflow tube and and then it trigger a valve to let the water drain down by gravity

5 gallon equal 18 927.058ml

18 927.058 divided by 100 equals 189.27058

So you would need to run it at least 189.27058 hour

A week only has 168 hour so 5 gallon weekly would be too much for your 100ml/hour pump

Some pumps to consider for this application are the aqua lifter pump or the avast Diaphragm Pump (http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/rigging/ATO-Diaphragm-Pump)

A 3rd option would be a KPP2 pumps from Kamoer for smaller tank but I do not know about the reliability of them, but one good thing is that due to there duel head design you only need one and you can find cheap replacement head for them on ebay here is a link if anyone is interested (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/KPP2-pumps/500411_257640087.html)

July 15, 2015

I recommend it. A auto water change system let you enjoy your tank more and let's you do less maintain. The great thing about this system is that the precision of the system is all depended on how good you cut the overflow tube. For your doser you can hook it up to a container with an over low tube and program it so it overflow the container and then all you need is a timer activated by a Float Switch so once the float switch is trigger it start a count down to let all the extra water flow out down the overflow tube and and then it trigger a valve to let the water drain down by gravity

5 gallon equal 18 927.058ml

18 927.058 divided by 100 equals 189.27058

So you would need to run it at least 189.27058 hour

A week only has 168 hour so 5 gallon weekly would be to much for your 100ml/hour pump

Some pumps to consider for this application are the aqua lifter pump or the avast Diaphragm Pump (http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/rigging/ATO-Diaphragm-Pump)

A 3rd option would be a KPP2 pumps from Kamoer for smaller tank but I do not know about the reliability of them, but one good thing is that due to there duel head design you only need one and you can find cheap replacement head for them on ebay here is a link if anyone is interested (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/KPP2-pumps/500411_257640087.html)

I was thinking more of setting the Doser to do 100 per hour in, and 100ml per hour out.

However for my tank I think it overcomplicates it- because what if the salt supply runs out? Water level drops, ATO kicks in, and salinity drops

I like the idea, but for my small aquarium (45g) a quick 5 minute water change and siphon is much simpler.

July 15, 2015

I was thinking more of setting the Doser to do 100 per hour in, and 100ml per hour out.

However for my tank I think it overcomplicates it- because what if the salt supply runs out? Water level drops, ATO kicks in, and salinity drops

I like the idea, but for my small aquarium (45g) a quick 5 minute water change and siphon is much simpler.

I don't think your salt supply can run out, because you first have to mix it . For the ato you simply program your controller to turn it off during the saltwater operation so no chance of it kicking in. And if you do the change slow enough, if you salinity changes for any reason it won't change much to cause damage to your live stock. Due to the overall design of the system with the overflow tubes the water level won't really drop

July 15, 2015

I don't think your salt supply can run out, because you first have to mix it . For the ato you simply program your controller to turn it off during the saltwater operation so no chance of it kicking in. And if you do the change slow enough, if you salinity changes for any reason it won't change much to cause damage to your live stock

I don't have a controller- just a ATO and Doser.

I was saying that if I have the Doser take out 100ml of water and add 100ml new water, if the supply of new water was to run out the Doser would continue taking out old water, and the ATO would add fresh water resulting in a salinity drop

July 15, 2015

I don't have a controller- just a ATO and Doser.

I was saying that if I have the Doser take out 100ml of water and add 100ml new water, if the supply of new water was to run out the Doser would continue taking out old water, and the ATO would add fresh water resulting in a salinity drop

ok I see what you mean and yes this is true if your going with 2 single head pump, that why when I build mine I am looking into using a duel head pump so that can't happen.

Here is a video of the pump I am currently using to test

different automatic water change setup

It is actually a 3 channel pump, but I am only using two of them. When I do the system on my pico build it, I well probably change this pump out for a stenner pump or a Nautilis 2 pump

July 16, 2015

How this system work:

This system work by using two bucket with an overflow tube in them. Once water is pumped into the bucket it actives a high level flow switch. Once this switch is trigger it start a count down that allows the buckets to be overfill and the extra water flows down the overflow tubes back to it container/tank. Once the count down is over a solenoid valve is trigger to allow the new salt water to follow into your system and the old tank water to be dumped out. Once the bucket is empty it sell trigger a low level float switch, that tells the system it is ready to repeat. The precision of this system is dependent on the overflow tubes so the accuracy of the quantity of the water being Changed all depended on how close you can cut your tubes and with a caliper and a saw you can get pretty accurate system. Unlike using just dual head peristaltic pump that need to be calibrated every certain period ( the length of this period depends on the design of the pump) the overflow tubes don't the only thing that could affect them is clog or one of the tubed braking.

For any one that want to do this here is a part list.

-2 water bucket: Any type well work as long as they are both the same type and can be drilled to mount a overflow tube and float switch and have a solid bottom that does not warp

Link (http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/item.aspx?itemid=23468)

-Any two channel pump: It can either be two single head pump or one pump with duel head (this is the best option for reliability)

-Two Solenoid Valve (Normally Closed are best because if the power goes out it well stay closed and not drain any water either out or into the system and they don't use any power when closed) Here is a link to some that may work (http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/G12-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Normally-Closed-p-636.html)

-Some float switch I would recommend 4. 2 per bucket, one for low level (empty) and the other one for high level (filled)

(http://autotopoff.com/)

-PVC pipe and fittings (the specific types of fittings and tube diameter depends on your design)

Optional:

-Filter on the intake of the pump. Adding a filter on the intake of the pump adds an extra layer of reliability, this well dramatically lower the possibility of clogging your pumps intake tube.

-Float switch in your sump or aio to send you an alert (if your controller has this capability) that the water level has changed

-Salinity probe to alert you if your salinity rises or lowers. I would only recommend this if your using a really high quality one like a lab grade one. Due to some of the most common ones being unreliable,easily getting affected by air bubbles or the sensor tips getting dirty, I won't recommend it (at least the cheaper ones).

Now for programing this depends on the controller your using but generally you want to set it so:

1: Turn your ato off

2. Start both pumps to fill the bucket with new salt water and the other bucket with tank water

3. When high level float switch is trigger a timer well be trigger and the pump well continue for 30 second ( this will vary depending on the flow rate of your pump and the size of the buckets your using) allowing enough time so that the bucket overflows and dumps the extra water down the overflow tube.

4. Now that both bucket have the same quantity in them a signal is send to trigger the solenoid valve so the new salt water flows to the tank and the old tank water flows down the drain.

5. Once low level switch is trigger wait 30 second ( this will vary depending on the flow rate of your pump and the size of the buckets your using) so all the water flows out, send a signal to stop triggering the Solenoid valve

6. Turn Ato back on

7. Repeat steps 1-6 if needed

For more information on awc system and different setup here are some very informing threads:

(http://166.78.194.236/forums/showthread.php?t=2349824)

(http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/97557-working-auto-water-changer/)

(http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1003354)

(http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/automatic-water-changes-it-doesnt-get-any-better-then-this.141619/)

(http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78813)

This system (http://fishtankprojects.com/tag/auto-water-change) uses the same pump I am currently using and one of the easiest to setup

Another awc system worth looking into for idea is the Dialyseas system made by seavisions but word of warning this system is very, very expensive

Link to it (http://www.seavisions.com/prod02.htm)

Here is another interesting system this one automatically mixes the salt for you

July 17, 2015

This are the part I used for my first prototype:

All of this part can be find at your local Home Depot store.

611942112579 - 1/2 x 2' PVC pipe

2 of this 084305355522 - 2 Gal Plastic Bucket

2 of this 084305355515 - 2 Gal Plastic paint Bucket lid

098268038620 - 1/2 OD x 3/8 ID x 10 Vinyl Tube

2 of this 048643064751 - Elbow 3/8 x 1/2 Nylon Barb x Mip

2 of this 611942038237 - 3/4" x 1/2" PVC Bushing SPG x FPT

2 of this 611942038336 - 1/2" PVC MALE Adapter S x MT

2 of this 511942037698 - 1/2" PVC Female Adapter S x FPT

All of this for a grand total of 25 dollars and 77 cents before taxes . Now this is just a prototype unit to prove the concept. On an operational unit I recommend all fittings with gasket.

July 17, 2015

For an easy and cheap operational unit here are some parts you may want to consider on your build.

-Liquid container (http://aquariumhotdeals.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24&products_id=1445&zenid=11b680753d75485b2a04e68c5e388732)

The great thing about this one is that it has container, the two you need for the automatic water change system and the third you can you use for water ever you want (ato,dosing).

This one has the same as above but build quality is better

(http://melevsreef.com/catalog/dosing-additives-reservoir)

>Pvc fittings

>>Return Part

-2 of these 1/4" Bulkhead with O-Ring (http://www.mistking.com/Value-bulkhead-14.html)

- 1/4 inch tubing (http://m.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-4-in-x-0-170-in-x-25-ft-Polyethylene-Tubing-SPEB25/202257563)

>>Overflow Tube part:

-2 of these 1/2" Bulkhead ([http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkhead-abs-slip-x-thread-slip-on-the-flange-head-side-1-d880e783834172e5ebd1868d84463d93.html)

- 1/2 inch Street (Spigot) x Barb/Inserts (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/gray-male-pipe-adapter-spigot-x-barb.html)

- 1/2 inch PVC pipe (http://m.homedepot.com/p/VPC-1-2-in-x-2-ft-PVC-Sch-40-Pipe-22015/202300504/)

- 1/2 inch Tubing (http://m.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-x-10-ft-Clear-PVC-Tubing-SVKI10/202309819/)

>Electric parts