JoshuA c Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Welcome! This is the build thread for my Arduino-controlled Fluval Spec II picoreef. I'll document my progress as I go with posts below and keep an overall up-to-date status on this header post (underneath the FTS). Any and all questions/comments are welcome. Thanks for looking! Running Hardware List - Fluval Spec II - stock pump - heater - Arduino Uno Lighting - 3 x CREE XT-E Royal Blue LEDs with 80 degree lenses - 3 x CREE XP-G2 Neutral White LEDs with 80 degree lenses Controller Features - controls lighting cycles - temperature regulation - leak detection - main screen as user interface - underneath-the-tank night lighting - ATO - easy water change button Filtration (from top to bottom) - floss - phosphate remover - activated carbon - rock rubble (Planned) Livestock - assorted zoanthids - a couple of mushrooms - a couple heads of frogspawn - (maybe) some SPS (like birdsnest) - (maybe) a small cleaner shrimp - CUC: ~ 3 blue-legged hermit crabs ~ 2 small snails FTS: Current Status Currently, I am planning the build and writing the first version of the code. Soon I hope to start collecting parts. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 For the water change part how are planning on doing this, what are you going to use so you get the same amount of water in and out without sg swings Link to comment
JoshuA c Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 For the water change part how are planning on doing this, what are you going to use so you get the same amount of water in and out without sg swings The water changes I'll do manually (incase you are thinking that I am going to have them done automatically). I will have a button, though, that deactivates the ATO and circulation pump in order to make life a bit easier. Otherwise, for water changes, I just use saltwater that is of the same salinity as that that is already in the tank. I fill it up to when the top-off switch is lifted, which means it is at the original level. Hope that clears somethings up. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 The water changes I'll do manually (incase you are thinking that I am going to have them done automatically). I will have a button, though, that deactivates the ATO and circulation pump in order to make life a bit easier. Otherwise, for water changes, I just use saltwater that is of the same salinity as that that is already in the tank. I fill it up to when the top-off switch is lifted, which means it is at the original level. Hope that clears somethings up. Oh ok I thought you were going to do them automatically because that is what I am trying to do with my pico build but I am still trying to figure out an accurate solution for measuring The volume exchange. I have look into ir, sonar, pressure and even typical float switch as sensors that could be used but they are not as accurate as I would like Link to comment
JoshuA c Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Oh ok I thought you were going to do them automatically because that is what I am trying to do with my pico build but I am still trying to figure out an accurate solution for measuring The volume exchange. I have look into ir, sonar, pressure and even typical float switch as sensors that could be used but they are not as accurate as I would like How about these? I've never used one or really looked into them, but they might work well as a dynamic fluid level sensor. Link to comment
PicoSavvy Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Those are the sensor I been looking at. With it resolution of .01 inch or .25mm and taking the dimensions of my sump into consideration I would get a difference of plus or minus 5 ml (with very accurate pump like doser pump) this can cause a sg swing in the long run. I guess I could add a sg sensor but this would add more complexity to the system and most sg sensor are affected very easily and are not as reliable as I would like Link to comment
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