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Cultivated Reef

Lighting a 40b HELP!


itsyahboydanny

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CronicReefer

I use something similar on my 29gallon that is 30" long (6" shorter than the 40b). I had to remove the optics to get a good even spread but you will need to have the light about 2-3" above the water for it to maintain PAR levels.

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I use something similar on my 29gallon that is 30" long (6" shorter than the 40b). I had to remove the optics to get a good even spread but you will need to have the light about 2-3" above the water for it to maintain PAR levels.

2-3" won't be enough and having them that close is probably why you had to remove the optics in order to get a good spread. I wouldn't be surprised if having them that close with the optics caused a nice disco in your tank.

 

But now time for some old geometry. The fixture is 16" wide and lets say the furthest LED is one inch in from the edge (just a guess). We need to figure out how what distance from the fixture does the light cover 36". The outer edge of the LED array is 7" from the middle of the fixture and therefore 7" from the middle of the tank so the light needs to reach out an extra 11" in order to cover the entire tank. Since that fixture uses 90 degree optics, the LED is putting out light at 45 degrees to the right and 45 degrees to the left of the middle of the LED (thinking only in 2-dimensions). That should give you a nice right triangle. If I'm doing this correctly, the equation should be tan(45) = 11/x with x being the distance from the fixture to point where the light covers 36". tan(45) = 1 so x needs to be 11 as well. In conclusion, with 90 degree optics, the fixture will cover a 36" footprint at 11" from the fixture.

 

So the tricky part is applying this. From here there are a lot of variables. Putting the fixture 11" from the sand bed would put the fixture under water. Even putting it 2-3" above the tank can cause a disco effect in your tank due to the optics. But having the fixture between 6-8" should help get rid of that disco effect. The equation above makes it pretty simple. For each inch away from the fixture, each LED is going to cover 2" additional inches (one on each side). By having the LEDs at around 6", the light from each LED should be well mixed with the almost the entire panel of LEDs prior to the light even reaching the tank itself allowing for better color blending in the tank.

 

The height of the fixture will also depend on your rockscape and where in the tank you will be placing corals. Say you hang your fixture at 6" above the tank, the light won't reach the full 36" footprint until 5" into the water. Obviously in that situation, you can't be putting corals in the top corners of the tank. If you have a rock structure that only takes up the center portion of the tank and has 3-4" on each side of the tank then that shouldn't be a problem. That's going to depend on your individual tank. If you want to put more corals higher up the edges of the tank then you may need to raise the light a bit more.

 

I'm tired and this sounds to me like I did it right and hopefully I didn't screw something up.

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CronicReefer

2-3" won't be enough and having them that close is probably why you had to remove the optics in order to get a good spread. I wouldn't be surprised if having them that close with the optics caused a nice disco in your tank.

If you read what I said correctly I removed the optics and therefore had to hang it 2-3" to maintain PAR levels. I used to hang the light 12" above my tank and the way the optics are designed you get a white spotlighting effect in the middle and very poor light spread to the edges (even on a 30" tank). Removing the optics and lowering it removed the white spotlight effect, I have even light coverage, improved the overall color, and I actually have zero disco effect. If I didn't lower it after removing the optics the light spread is too large at 12" and PAR levels drop significantly without optics. In all honesty I wouldn't even recommend this light because of his tank size but I'm merely giving a suggestion to help him achieve what he is looking for.

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HarryPotter

 

1 no, 2 probably would be fine.

+1

 

You'll need two of you want to get lighting on the edges- one is not enough for a 40b.

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SaltFish35

Honestly .. http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-4x39W-T5-Aquarium-Light-Digi-Timer-Fixture-p/52324.htmthis would be a nice light with UV or like ilk brand bulbs. This would give you moderate light - not for SPS; but most everything else would thrive (from experience). LED is a new lighting and a bit of a new fad (IMHO) though they look to be here to stay for now.

 

P.S. It is good to plan the type of coral you are going to "plant" in the aqua garden. HQI is too much for Moderate specimens for the most part.. it is better to feed the coral (Reef Roids, Reef Snow..etc). Also, the more 10K lights the better, say three 10Ks and one deep blue for looks to help colors pop. 6500K is the best for growth, but not as attractive to our eye.

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You don't have to break the bank buying expensive lighting. just because it does not have eco tech written on the side dosnt mean it's crap.

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jedimasterben

You don't have to break the bank buying expensive lighting. just because it does not have eco tech written on the side dosnt mean it's crap.

Actually, if it did have Ecotech on it it would still be crap lol.

 

The issue is quality - the reflector and the ballast MAKE the fixture. If quality lacks on either of those, then the lamps can change significantly in their spectral and radiometric output and can have poorer spread or intensity.

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Op is looking for a good CHEAP lighting option, and this is as good as it gets for the price point. I've used Aqua traders halide systems in the past and they served me well.

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I think a pair of those panels you listed would do you very well. Would easily be able to grow whatever you want in that 40 breeder and comes in at $160 which is only $10 above your original budget. You can also order one and see how it goes. If it works for you then keep it but if not simply add a second one and you'll do great.

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Cencalfishguy56

Actually, if it did have Ecotech on it it would still be crap lol.

 

The issue is quality - the reflector and the ballast MAKE the fixture. If quality lacks on either of those, then the lamps can change significantly in their spectral and radiometric output and can have poorer spread or intensity.

I used aquatraders t5 for almost a year with no problems run some ATIs and you're good to go haha those horror stories are from 2 years ago im sure they still aren't 100% full proof but good bang for the buck

Op is looking for a good CHEAP lighting option, and this is as good as it gets for the price point. I've used Aqua traders halide systems in the past and they served me well.

+1 I had excellent growth

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a Coral Compulsion CC-120P on my 40 breeder, just 1, and it covers everything in the tank with no issues. Sadly they stopped making those but there are very similar styes out there that can cover a 40 Breeder with no problem. The 2 things you don't want to skimp on with your reef tank is the lighting and skimmer. Might as well do it right the 1st time so you don't upgrade down the road and wind up spending even more money.

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