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Coral Vue Hydros

Is the Hanna Ca Colorimeter worth it?


HarryPotter

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HarryPotter

Is it? Does it actually give accurate results?

 

Do you save any time/ become more accurate compared to API or Salifert?

 

 

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Arkayology

IMO, it's not worth it for the money as you will not get much more accuracy for the money. You won't save a ton of time either.

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HarryPotter

IMO, it's not worth it for the money as you will not get much more accuracy for the money. You won't save a ton of time either.

Thanks. Mind if I ask you a question?

 

So I tested my tank today, and Ca is at 350 and KH just over 5. Terrible, I know!

 

I am trying to raise it using Kent A & B, but no matter what it will not go up! Is this because it is made for nano tanks and mine is a 45? Help!

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HarryPotter

Crap. Apparently I would need over an entire bottle of Kent A to raise my Ca level to 440, using the online calculator.

 

What would be a better supplement?!?! Obviously I need to upgrade from the "Nano Dosing"

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Admonition

I have the Hannah Ca checker and I find it's results not consistent. Although I LOVE their Alkalinity checker, I do not recommend the Calcium one. Go with Salifert.

 

As for a supplement to boost Alkalinity, I had positive results with BRS Two Part and Tropic Marine Original Balling (which doesn't raise pH like the BRS did for me). Can't go wrong with either.

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HarryPotter

I have the Hannah Ca checker and I find it's results not consistent. Although I LOVE their Alkalinity checker, I do not recommend the Calcium one. Go with Salifert.

 

As for a supplement to boost Alkalinity, I had positive results with BRS Two Part and Tropic Marine Original Balling (which doesn't raise pH like the BRS did for me). Can't go wrong with either.

 

I put in a half cup of Kent A (Half the dose an online calculator recommends) in an attempt to raise my Ca.

 

Yeah, the Kent Nano is just too freaking diluted. I need over a cup to go from 350--> 440

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HarryPotter

And (pardon my cluelessness) is the high 5's okay for Alkalinity? All I know is that alkalinity regulates PH swings- right?

 

I have part B as well, and the calculator says I need 6 tablespoons of part B to raise it from 5.7--> 7.2

 

Can I do that all at once, or over time?


I can't speak about the Kent product as I've never used it. But the BRS and Tropic Marine products work great and aren't that expensive.

 

Im ordering the BRS now, the nano-pack to test it out. Not too expensive, and has a lot of information (Calculators, etc) to go with it.

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Admonition

In a very simplified explanation yes, it helps keep your pH from sudden changes up or down. Randy Holmes Farley has some great articles about reef chemistry, it's worth a read: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/

 

Again, I don't know that product so I can't give you any advice on how to properly use it sorry. But you can never go wrong by dosing 'small' quantities verses larger ones when in doubt.

 

Good luck with the BRS stuff. Just a suggestion, keep track of how much Alkalinity solution temporarily raises your pH when dosed and for how long. You don't want to consistently shock your corals with high pH changes if it effects your tank like it did mine :)

Oops, forgot to comment on your question about an alk of 5. I keep mine at 7.5-7.7, but I know a lot of people keeps theirs in the 9-11 range. Read the article I posted, do some research :)

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Also keep in mind that Alk, Ca, and Mg all work together to maintain stability. Low Mg will work against you in keeping Ca stable.

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HarryPotter

Also keep in mind that Alk, Ca, and Mg all work together to maintain stability. Low Mg will work against you in keeping Ca stable.

 

I believe MG is included in Kent A & B, but I will be buying a complete Salifert test set and BRS additives shortly

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I have the Hanna Ca checker and I like it. While it may not be 100% accurate, it does get me pretty close. I don't do well with test kits that rely on color changes. Some may be subtle, the Hanna checker gives me an actual number reading. I've been using it for 4 years.

 

I also use the BRS 2-part and it is great. As far as Alk, I keep mine at 7.5 dkh as I keep mostly acros. The main thing is to keep it stable at whatever level you decide.

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Harryjsinger, on 28 May 2015 - 6:04 PM, said:

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Please help me out here.

 

So I tested my tank today using both API and Red Sea, and Ca is at 350 and KH just over 5. Terrible, I know!

I am trying to raise it using Kent A & B, but no matter what it will not go up! Is this because it is made for nano tanks and mine is a 45? Help!

 

My green slimer's polyps are receded, and the other SPS doesn't look great either. I know I should have been testing frequently, and will test daily in the future.

 

Why can't I raise my stupid Ca or KH level?!?!?!

 

Crap. Apparently I would need over an entire bottle of Kent A to raise my Ca from 350 to 440. I need to get a new two-part- any recommendations?

 

What is your magnesium level at. If it is not stable you will never get your calcium and alkalinity stable.

because unless the right of mag is in the tank the addition of calcium and all will just turn into precipitation of calcium carbonate and your levels will never rise.

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Arkayology

+ 1 to what everyone has said about magnesium needing to be in line in order to keep DkH and Ca stable.

 

I think you should do some reading about the relationship between Ca, KH, and Mg before you start dumping a lot of chemicals into your tank. Doing things too fast is a great way to nuke your tank and kill all your livestock if you are not careful.

 

What are you using to test your KH? What is your reading of 5? meq/l ?

 

Also, I just read your thread and you are going really fast with stocking your tank. It's not that old, correct?

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HarryPotter

+ 1 to what everyone has said about magnesium needing to be in line in order to keep DkH and Ca stable.

 

I think you should do some reading about the relationship between Ca, KH, and Mg before you start dumping a lot of chemicals into your tank. Doing things too fast is a great way to nuke your tank and kill all your livestock if you are not careful.

 

What are you using to test your KH? What is your reading of 5? meq/l ?

 

Also, I just read your thread and you are going really fast with stocking your tank. It's not that old, correct?

 

I am using both Red Sea and API to test my KH.

 

I used the online calculator for Kent Nano, and ended up (currently) with Ca 440 and Kh 9.2. Pretty good, no? I need to test Mg asap though-I cannot figure out how to test it with the Red Sea kit.

 

About the age of the tank:

 

It is two weeks old, it is two years old. All of these corals were in my NanoCube (Running a LONG time), and all the media, LR, water, etc. were transferred to this tank. The upgrade was the biological equivalent of a less than 30% water change- adding 15g of water.

 

I am under the impression that due to this, the tank is actually not "over-stocked" or "too rapidly stocked" with coral. Its "been running for years", and is healthier than ever with the additional water volume and more careful maintenance

 

Correct? This is my second tank, so I may be misunderstanding

 

This is also worth a read Harry http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/

I understood the summaries of Ca, KH, and Mg, but after that the language used was a bit beyond me. I think I get the overall idea though, they are all connected and must be treated as such

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Arkayology

 

I am using both Red Sea and API to test my KH.

 

I used the online calculator for Kent Nano, and ended up (currently) with Ca 440 and Kh 9.2. Pretty good, no? I need to test Mg asap though-I cannot figure out how to test it with the Red Sea kit.

 

About the age of the tank:

 

It is two weeks old, it is two years old. All of these corals were in my NanoCube (Running a LONG time), and all the media, LR, water, etc. were transferred to this tank. The upgrade was the biological equivalent of a less than 30% water change- adding 15g of water.

 

I am under the impression that due to this, the tank is actually not "over-stocked" or "too rapidly stocked" with coral. Its "been running for years", and is healthier than ever with the additional water volume and more careful maintenance

 

Correct? This is my second tank, so I may be misunderstanding

 

You cannot overstock a tank with coral in regards to effecting water quality for the most part. I was just thinking that the tank might not be established enough to process any nutrients present. If the LR is established then you should be OK, but I would caution on adding anything for a little while just to make sure things are OK. Clams require good, stable, water conditions and are very sensitive to changes. New tanks can fluctuate a lot so just be careful.

 

Ca of 440 and DkH of 9.2 is good. Work on keeping it there.

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HarryPotter

You cannot overstock a tank with coral in regards to effecting water quality for the most part. I was just thinking that the tank might not be established enough to process any nutrients present. If the LR is established then you should be OK, but I would caution on adding anything for a little while just to make sure things are OK. Clams require good, stable, water conditions and are very sensitive to changes. New tanks can fluctuate a lot so just be careful.

 

Ca of 440 and DkH of 9.2 is good. Work on keeping it there.

 

Yes, the LR was all established and I use live sand as well. I do NOT have a skimmer yet, but for now do weekly 5g water changes along with a sand bed siphon.

 

Lucinda (my clam) seems pretty low maintenance. No feeding, no falling over, nothing- just pretty haha. Ive had it for about two months, and just two days ago added another clam (A beautiful 5" gold clam that a local had for $15) since I couldn't pass up on the deal.

 

I am going to try daily testing (Will probably end up every other day) and see if I can start calculating a dosing formula.

 

Question:

I really want to get my first fish into this system soon. I am hoping for two (mismatched) unique clownfish, do you think that bioload is excessive?

 

They are pretty small.

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Arkayology

 

Yes, the LR was all established and I use live sand as well. I do NOT have a skimmer yet, but for now do weekly 5g water changes along with a sand bed siphon.

 

Lucinda (my clam) seems pretty low maintenance. No feeding, no falling over, nothing- just pretty haha. Ive had it for about two months, and just two days ago added another clam (A beautiful 5" gold clam that a local had for $15) since I couldn't pass up on the deal.

 

I am going to try daily testing (Will probably end up every other day) and see if I can start calculating a dosing formula.

 

Question:

I really want to get my first fish into this system soon. I am hoping for two (mismatched) unique clownfish, do you think that bioload is excessive?

 

They are pretty small.

What are your nitrates and phosphates at? Two fish will only add as much bioload as the amount you feed so it could be OK as long as you don't overfeed. I would give it maybe another week or so and if your nitrates aren't out of wack I would say go for it.

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HarryPotter

What are your nitrates and phosphates at? Two fish will only add as much bioload as the amount you feed so it could be OK as long as you don't overfeed. I would give it maybe another week or so and if your nitrates aren't out of wack I would say go for it.

 

Flat zeros on API- makes sense given all the attention I've been giving the tank. I also feed small pinches of pellets occasionally to keep up my bioload (I forget who told me to do that) and for the hermits.

Sounds good! Theres a local with INSANE prices and unbelievable stock. He has a few 1000g systems, and prices are actually about 1/3-1/5 the price of the store.

 

Like the clam (first thing I bought from him) was $15!

 

He has TONs of clowns (Black Ice, Darwin, True Percula, Maroon, etc) that are pretty much $9.99 each save a few. Oh also since these will be my first fish, less chance of getting some sort of infection

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