Halo_003 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 So, working on a DIY fixture plan... Here's what I have so far..CNC Reef ASIS 4"x24", custom length but should be just like the 418. Will have mount holes for both 3 and 4 Nanobox V3 arrays, white acrylic lid, white powder coat (still working this out), splash guard, hanging kit.3x Nanobox V3 arrays. Tank is a 12 Gallon Long and I think 3 will be sufficient, but there's holes for 4 if needed. 1 x 4up LDD 4 x Dip Sockets 1 x LDD 700H 3 x LDD 1000H 1 x Meanwell HLG100H 1 x BF Mini 1 x Driver/controller housing Wires all sleeved, have some ideas on that. Not sure what to do with regards to a driver enclosure, but will see if Dave @ NBR has an idea on that. I love the look of the ASIS sinks so it could be cool I think. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 That's one bad ass light for such a small tank. Lol. I would add the 4th puck now so you don't have to do it later. 4 pucks give better spread, just run them lower. It never fails, you build the light, then in a month the "i wish I did it this way" though keeps you awake at night. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 That's one bad ass light for such a small tank. Lol. I would add the 4th puck now so you don't have to do it later. 4 pucks give better spread, just run them lower. It never fails, you build the light, then in a month the "i wish I did it this way" though keeps you awake at night. It is seriously tempting. But I do like tinkering. I figure this way I can try it and if I want to upgrade it's about $70 and a few hours at some point down the line, so not a huge problem really. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 why a six up board if only using 5 drivers? Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 why a six up board if only using 5 drivers? Room to upgrade to 6 drivers if a 4th puck is added later on, I was thinking I would future proof at least a little bit. One thing I'm not too sure about is where to put the drivers. Chris @ CNCreef said that the drivers and BF Mini would not go in the heatsink (*I doubted they would but asked regardless). So some sort of enclosure box is going to be needed for them now. Probably something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Box-Project-Enclosure-Case-Electronic-1110-4-33-2-76-0-94-L-W-H-/331146331683?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d19dc0623 Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Any like blaring dumb problems though? I'm torn on what color to get. Half of me wants white acrylic for the lid and a white powder coat, the other half is dying for a bead blasted aluminum finish and a black acrylic lid. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 By design it's like a thin version of Dave's driver box so if it's just housing drivers then it should be fine. As far as your setup is looking I think it will work fine. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 This may be a dumb question, but is that the correct number of drivers? I'll be running the arrays in 4 channel mode. I understand how to wire everything I think, but I get a bit lost on drivers and such. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Ask Dave for the voltage of each channel. I'm not sure what the numbers are and I'm not home to test my nanobox arrays. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 This may be a dumb question, but is that the correct number of drivers? I'll be running the arrays in 4 channel mode. I understand how to wire everything I think, but I get a bit lost on drivers and such. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/?p=4923124 And whatever you do, do NOT solder the LDD to the Coralux board They will be there permanently. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/355869-nano-box-v3-array-lime-luxeon-t-uv/?p=4923124 And whatever you do, do NOT solder the LDD to the Coralux board They will be there permanently. So I don't get it, do I need one driver per channel, giving me a total of 3x LDD1000 and 1xLDD700? I know not to solder to the board, good looking out though. I'm buying the sockets for it. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 So I don't get it, do I need one driver per channel, giving me a total of 3x LDD1000 and 1xLDD700? I know not to solder to the board, good looking out though. I'm buying the sockets for it. If you want four channels, yes, you need four drivers. I would recommend against 1A drivers unless your tank is taller than 24" (and your LEDs are 32"+ above the bottom). I use 350mA for the 'white' channel and 700mA for the rest. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 If you want four channels, yes, you need four drivers. I would recommend against 1A drivers unless your tank is taller than 24" (and your LEDs are 32"+ above the bottom). I use 350mA for the 'white' channel and 700mA for the rest. Why? Just for less power? If so wouldn't dimming via the BF Mini have the same effect? Sorry for all the questions lol this is new stuff to me. (The design aspect is anyways) Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Alrighty so, the CNC reef has been ordered and should arrive in maybe 2 weeks. One thing I would really like to do is be able to have a detachable cable from the fixture to the driver box. Think I will go with Ben's suggestion and use 700ma for everything, and 350ma for whites. (3x LDD 700, 1x LDD 350) Also ordered a aluminum project box to house drivers, I'm not sure if the BF mini would fit in with it or not. A possibility is that O2 surplus board I keep hearing about, but as of yet I am unsure on that note. What size wire should I be using to connect the pucks together? I was thinking either 22AWG or 24AWG would be good. I'm hoping to get a single cable that is detachable going from the fixture to the controller box/driver box, but am not sure how exactly to do so, not 100% sure what kind of cable would be able to do that for a 6ft length. I was thinking possibly CAT 6. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Why? Just for less power? If so wouldn't dimming via the BF Mini have the same effect? Sorry for all the questions lol this is new stuff to me. (The design aspect is anyways) I didn't see your reply Yes, while dimming with the Bluefish will reduce total overall output, it is still pulsing the LEDs to 1A, just for less time, so they are not as efficient. IMHO, I very highly doubt you'll exceed ~400mA on any of the channels if they are placed 12" above the tank. Alrighty so, the CNC reef has been ordered and should arrive in maybe 2 weeks. One thing I would really like to do is be able to have a detachable cable from the fixture to the driver box. Think I will go with Ben's suggestion and use 700ma for everything, and 350ma for whites. (3x LDD 700, 1x LDD 350) Also ordered a aluminum project box to house drivers, I'm not sure if the BF mini would fit in with it or not. A possibility is that O2 surplus board I keep hearing about, but as of yet I am unsure on that note. What size wire should I be using to connect the pucks together? I was thinking either 22AWG or 24AWG would be good. I'm hoping to get a single cable that is detachable going from the fixture to the controller box/driver box, but am not sure how exactly to do so, not 100% sure what kind of cable would be able to do that for a 6ft length. I was thinking possibly CAT 6. If you're unsure at all, go ahead and buy one of O2's boards. Goddamn they're sexy and work flawlessly. 24-26AWG is fine. You're not pushing a lot of wattage through them, so it's fine. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 I didn't see your reply Yes, while dimming with the Bluefish will reduce total overall output, it is still pulsing the LEDs to 1A, just for less time, so they are not as efficient. IMHO, I very highly doubt you'll exceed ~400mA on any of the channels if they are placed 12" above the tank. If you're unsure at all, go ahead and buy one of O2's boards. Goddamn they're sexy and work flawlessly. 24-26AWG is fine. You're not pushing a lot of wattage through them, so it's fine. No problem! In light of that I will plan on whites getting a 350 and the other channels getting 700s. I bought one of these for my drivers, any idea what the dimensions on O2's boards are? And any thoughts on how to get a single cable (detachable on both ends ideally) going from the driver box to the actual light? And on connector terminals if possible. Thanks! Link to comment
O2Surplus Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 No problem! In light of that I will plan on whites getting a 350 and the other channels getting 700s. I bought one of these for my drivers, any idea what the dimensions on O2's boards are? And any thoughts on how to get a single cable (detachable on both ends ideally) going from the driver box to the actual light? And on connector terminals if possible. Thanks! The driver board measures 100mm wide x 150mm long. I haven't measured the height of the PcB with the LDD's and the BFMini installed. Maybe Ben would be so kind? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I will have to measure them. Can't forget that they also need to be suspended to keep the solder points on the bottom from touching the metal. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 How much is the that sexy driver board? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Including space underneath for the solder points and the BF mini connector, the total height is just under one inch. Link to comment
Marc.The.Shark Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Is that the board with the fan control as well? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Is that the board with the fan control as well?Yes. It can either be its own dedicated channel or can piggyback off of one of the LED channels no problem. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 So it looks like it's too wide then. Hmm.... If I remember right that housing can fit up to 70mm wide. Link to comment
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