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Hack return pump to work with Reeflink/Ecosmart live?


HarryPotter

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HarryPotter

Hi everyone!

 

I really Ecosmart live and the feeding mode it provides- lowering vortechs, etc.

 

Has anyone managed to connect the wireless RF (or the controller unit) to a DC pump? This would be AMAZING!

 

If you buy a used (~$20) Wireless Driver (ex MP40w), could you somehow connect it to a DC pump? I believe it is possible- three wires go from the driver to the pump. Ground, Power, and control.

 

I'm no electrician, but if you cut the pumps 3 wired and splice them to the driver's 3, tada!

 

Control from Reeflink/Ecosmart live, adjustable flow, sexy controller.

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Hi everyone!

 

I really Ecosmart live and the feeding mode it provides- lowering vortechs, etc.

 

However, I cannot control the filteration pumps to also shut off since they cannot be connected to Ecosmart live.

 

Has anyone managed to connect the wireless RF (or the controller unit) to a DC pump? This would be AMAZING!

 

 

You have an Apex. Program it properly and use feed mode to turn off your Vortechs and all other return pumps.

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HarryPotter

 

 

You have an Apex. Program it properly and use feed mode to turn off your Vortechs and all other return pumps.

I want to also CONTROL the return pumps beyond that. I

 

Not a working apex yet. I just think it would be AMAZING and pretty simple. Just splice the three wires, and BAM a EcoSmart Live controlled pump! You could put on a schedule, etc.

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I want to also CONTROL the return pumps beyond that. I

 

Not a working apex yet. I just think it would be AMAZING and pretty simple. Just splice the three wires, and BAM a EcoSmart Live controlled pump! You could put on a schedule, etc.

 

Ya that wouldn't work at all. The 3 wires are a hot, netural and ground. The driver wouldn't provide enough power for the return pump to run and the powerhead. You would surely fry the driver board.

 

You have an Apex right? Feed mode will allow you to turn it on and off no problem. With a WXM module you can also use it to slow the pumps or changes the settings depending on the feed mode you choose.

 

Changing the flow of the RP at random would create problems. You would have to adjust your overflow valve constantly to keep it flowing properly.

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HarryPotter

 

Ya that wouldn't work at all. The 3 wires are a hot, netural and ground. The driver wouldn't provide enough power for the return pump to run and the powerhead. You would surely fry the driver board.

 

You have an Apex right? Feed mode will allow you to turn it on and off no problem. With a WXM module you can also use it to slow the pumps or changes the settings depending on the feed mode you choose.

 

Changing the flow of the RP at random would create problems. You would have to adjust your overflow valve constantly to keep it flowing properly.

It's a ALL-IN-ONE.

 

I need a DC pump in the rear chambers since now I have like 4 cobalt MJs. They are too warm, and I would rather one pump to power them all. (Lord of the rings reference)

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It's a ALL-IN-ONE.

 

I need a DC pump in the rear chambers since now I have like 4 cobalt MJs. They are too warm, and I would rather one pump to power them all. (Lord of the rings reference)

 

Ohhhh. I forgot. I just saw your drawing and thought you sumped it.

 

I feel ya. There are a few good DC pumps that have flow controls built in. Right now nothing is capable of doing what you are asking and I don't see Ecotech getting into the return pump game anytime soon.

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Vortechs are not 3 wire motors. 3 wire would suggest that they are just standard DC brushless motors, which they certainly are not. These are 3-phase DC motors with sensor feedback. If you open a driver up and actually look at the connector, there are 10 pins. 3 will be for each power phase, and the remaining will be for the hall effect sensors that provide rotor position and speed information (useful for stalled rotor detection), and maybe a temperature sensor.

 

TL:DR - It's not as simple as just hooking up a standard DC pump to a Vortech controller and calling it a day. Far more complicated than that.

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Vortechs are not 3 wire motors. 3 wire would suggest that they are just standard DC brushless motors, which they certainly are not. These are 3-phase DC motors with sensor feedback. If you open a driver up and actually look at the connector, there are 10 pins. 3 will be for each power phase, and the remaining will be for the hall effect sensors that provide rotor position and speed information (useful for stalled rotor detection), and maybe a temperature sensor.

 

Well there you go. I've never looked at them enough to care haha. No way would I hack into my Vortech.

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NorthGaHillbilly

Vortechs are not 3 wire motors. 3 wire would suggest that they are just standard DC brushless motors, which they certainly are not. These are 3-phase DC motors with sensor feedback. If you open a driver up and actually look at the connector, there are 10 pins. 3 will be for each power phase, and the remaining will be for the hall effect sensors that provide rotor position and speed information (useful for stalled rotor detection), and maybe a temperature sensor.

 

TL:DR - It's not as simple as just hooking up a standard DC pump to a Vortech controller and calling it a day. Far more complicated than that.

I had the idea of doing the same,wp10 pump to an mp10 controller, and quickly found out that as you said, it just ain't that easy

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HarryPotter

Dang never mind everyone.

 

Anyone have a pump they can reccoment that can take the place of three cobalt 1200s?

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