slackcub Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Hey everyone. Was hoping I could get some ideas in getting rid of a macro algae issue I'm having. I've had some folks say the only way to get rid of it is brute force, and I've tried that, but unsuccessfully. It always seems to come back. I can pull most of it off, but I'd love to find some sort of fish or invertebrate that would help erradicate it. The last water test I contducted showed ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate are all at 0, calcium is at 420, and KH is at 125.3 Link to comment
Speaker73 Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Good luck trying to find something to eat those macros. Best course would be to use the hydrogen peroxide method but even that is doubtful. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Rabbitfish. Mexican turbo snails. Link to comment
slackcub Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 speaker73, hydrogen peroxide method? Not familiar with it. Though I'm trying to stay away from chemicals as the algae is also on some rocks that have zoa colonies on them. jedimasterben, any difference between Mexican turbo snails and "regular" ones? I have 2, and they pretty much leave the stuff alone. I'll have to do some research into rabbitfish. Link to comment
GMay Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Some hermits will eat macros. Mine was completely controlled that way. I also don't mind having some in the tank as it helps control nitrates and phosphates in the system. If you feel it is a problem, I would suggest just remove as much as you can to start with and then add a couple extra critters to ehlp keep it under control Link to comment
SchnauzerFace Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I tried to put some macro in my display once, and my purple pincushion urchin and turbo snails ate it in about a day. Link to comment
seabass Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 The last water test I contducted showed ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate are all at 0 When you have an algae bloom, it's taking the nutrients out of the water column. So it's important to regularly monitor nutrients (prior to a bloom). I'm also guessing that you'd see some phosphate if you had a higher resolution test. For example, an API Phosphate test kit goes up in 0.25ppm increments of phosphate, whereas a Hana Phosphorus ULR checker goes up in 0.003ppm increments of phosphate. Since the target value of phosphate is 0.01 to 0.03ppm, a test kit that goes up in 0.25ppm increments isn't helpful. hydrogen peroxide method? Not familiar with it. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/ Link to comment
DurocShark Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I think it looks great, but I've always been a planted tank guy. My hermits don't touch my macros. As mentioned the Mexican variety of turbos will munch, as will a rabbitfish. Urchins are a good thought too, though I've never had one myself. As I understand it, they also eat coralline algae, so you may not want urchins. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 jedimasterben, any difference between Mexican turbo snails and "regular" ones? I have 2, and they pretty much leave the stuff alone. I'll have to do some research into rabbitfish. Most LFS don't know that 'astrea' snails aren't 'turbo' snails. One of the main problems with common names Link to comment
Mojado Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 jedimasterben, any difference between Mexican turbo snails and "regular" ones? I have 2, and they pretty much leave the stuff alone. The Mexican ones work hella hard for cheap. Link to comment
DurocShark Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 The Mexican ones work hella hard for cheap. No cerveza, no trabajo. Link to comment
Mojado Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 No cerveza, no trabajo. Ok dude. Don't be racist. ? Link to comment
DurocShark Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Ok dude. Don't be racist. I used to have that sign on my wall at my last job. I think it's time to find a new one... Link to comment
Lynaea Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I have fern caulerpa and some other serrated kind that was taking over my rocks. I got a Tuxedo urchin and he ate it, I now have three and while I don't think they'll eradicate it they are getting it under control. You might get one and see what it will eat. Mine don't touch the codium or my 'fancy' red macros (halimeda??), I consider that a plus but if you're looking to be 'macro free' hydrogen peroxide is probably your best bet. Trying to pull it out sucks! Link to comment
slackcub Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 so it seems like urchins are a common way to get rid of it. Any particular variety I should look at? Also, how difficult are they to care for? Last thing I need is something to die when I put it in there to help me out. I don't necessarily want to completely eradicate it as I appreciate what it does to my nitrate levels, but to keep it well under control. My hermits and "turbos" don't touch the stuff right now. I'm also guessing that you'd see some phosphate if you had a higher resolution test. For example, an API Phosphate test kit goes up in 0.25ppm increments of phosphate, whereas a Hana Phosphorus ULR checker goes up in 0.003ppm increments of phosphate. Since the target value of phosphate is 0.01 to 0.03ppm, a test kit that goes up in 0.25ppm increments isn't helpful. Any suggeestions on where to get that test? I currently use the API test for my calcium and and phosphate levels. Link to comment
seabass Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Any suggeestions on where to get that test? I currently use the API test for my calcium and and phosphate levels. http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Handheld-Colorimeter-Phosphorus/dp/B003UNK3I8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432331660&sr=8-1&keywords=hanna+phosphorus Get the phosphorus test kit now, and get a Salifert calcium test kit when your API reagents are gone. Link to comment
Lynaea Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 I don't know how big your tank is .... I went with Tuxedo's because I'd read they eat algae, stay small (about 3 inches max) and don't bulldoze everything in their path. I think they're great, they use these long feelers to move themselves around and so far they haven't bothered anything. They do have a tendency to decorate themselves as camouflage though, one of mine briefly picked up a few zoas that had gotten loose, he put them down in a nicer spot though . I often have trouble finding them because they are covered in caulerpa and shells. As long as you attach your frags to something it's all good, I'd say they're less likely to rearrange things then my blue leg hermits or big Cerith snails. I don't have experience with any other urchins. They don't eat very fast though, don't expect results overnight, they tend to sit in one place chowing or resting then move a bit and repeat. As I said above, start with one, put him on the caulerpa and see what he does. If you don't start to see 'bald spots' in a few days then they may not like the caulerpa you've got. As far as care, if they eat the macros you're good, otherwise they'll need another source of algae. I haven't done anything special for them, I did acclimate them slowly based on reccs from .... Idk, somewhere Good luck Link to comment
slackcub Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 I don't know how big your tank is .... I went with Tuxedo's because I'd read they eat algae, stay small (about 3 inches max) and don't bulldoze everything in their path. I think they're great, they use these long feelers to move themselves around and so far they haven't bothered anything. They do have a tendency to decorate themselves as camouflage though, one of mine briefly picked up a few zoas that had gotten loose, he put them down in a nicer spot though . I often have trouble finding them because they are covered in caulerpa and shells. As long as you attach your frags to something it's all good, I'd say they're less likely to rearrange things then my blue leg hermits or big Cerith snails. I don't have experience with any other urchins. They don't eat very fast though, don't expect results overnight, they tend to sit in one place chowing or resting then move a bit and repeat. As I said above, start with one, put him on the caulerpa and see what he does. If you don't start to see 'bald spots' in a few days then they may not like the caulerpa you've got. As far as care, if they eat the macros you're good, otherwise they'll need another source of algae. I haven't done anything special for them, I did acclimate them slowly based on reccs from .... Idk, somewhere Good luck I have a 29 gallon Biocube. I may have to look into getting one. either that or a Mexican Turbo. Any suggestions on where I could get one or the other? Not sure if I trust my LFS to something like that. Seems like they don't quite know their stuff. Link to comment
Mirya Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Can also try mithrax crabs. They are are "supposed" to eat bubble algae. When I tried one in one of my tanks, it ignored the bubble algae and devored a whole bunch of Dragon's Breath macroalgae overnight... Link to comment
atrox Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 The last thing you want do is go dumping chemicals in a tank. Start simple there are literally dozens of inverts and fish that will naturally take care of this. The inverts that were suggested are all great choices and you should start there. If I ever get to a point that I start dumping peroxide into a reef tank I will give this hobby up. The turtle wins this race not the rabbit. Understand your tanks parameters, it's lows and highs. Lighting, water source, livestock choices and general reading will solve most problems. Link to comment
JoeDigiorgio Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Where are you located? If you're willing to rip as much as possible out before adding emerald crabs to finish it off ill pay shipping for it. Emeralds will eat it. That's why I don't have anymore of my own. Link to comment
ndrobey Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Longspine urchin should take care of it. They love to eat it. Link to comment
seabass Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I have a 29 gallon Biocube. I may have to look into getting one. either that or a Mexican Turbo. Any suggestions on where I could get one or the other? Not sure if I trust my LFS to something like that. Seems like they don't quite know their stuff. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=497 Longspine urchin should take care of it. They love to eat it.And grow to be about the size of a basketball. Not suitable to keep long term in a BC29. Link to comment
ndrobey Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=497 And grow to be about the size of a basketball. Not suitable to keep long term in a BC29. Bit a small one would take care of the problem. When it gets too big, just trade it for something. Link to comment
slackcub Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Where are you located? If you're willing to rip as much as possible out before adding emerald crabs to finish it off ill pay shipping for it. Emeralds will eat it. That's why I don't have anymore of my own. I'm in Chicago Bit a small one would take care of the problem. When it gets too big, just trade it for something. I'm hoping for some long term control, so that's out. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=497 Thanks for the link! I think I'll try one of those urchins for now, and if that doesn't work try a bull dozer... er... turbo snail or two Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.