Canon T3i & Nikon D3200: How does one get good macro pictures?

[HarryPotter]

Canon T3i & Nikon D3200: How does one get good macro pictures?

 

I have both a Canon T3i and Nikon D3200 available in the house, but due to my photography skills (Or last thereof) my iPhone takes better pictures!

 

On autofocus it never works due to the water (I think), and when I focus it manually all the lighting gets screwed up and you can barely see the corals.

 

Is this a lighting issue? A settings issue? Help!

[CJJon]

Manual focus. Use the A setting where you set the f stop manual and camera adjusts exposure. Use a good 1:1 macro lens and make sure lens is perpendicular to the glass. It will distort otherwise. Pumps off lights to full intensity.

[HarryPotter]

Manual focus. Use the A setting where you set the f stop manual and camera adjusts exposure. Use a good 1:1 macro lens and make sure lens is perpendicular to the glass. It will distort otherwise. Pumps off lights to full intensity.

 

Um... I understand "Manual Focus", "Pumps off", "Full intensity", but beyond that I'm clueless.

 

"F stop manual" is what? What lense (mm) is considered macro?

[CJJon]

F stop opens or closes the aperture of the lens. Lower f numbers the larger opening and less depth of field. Larger f number smaller opening more DoF. The larger the number the more light you need to shoot. You want more DoF so more of the object is in focus. Try f/11 and 1/5 or so shutter. Bracket shots.

 

Typing on iPhone now. PITA. More later!

[HarryPotter]

I can't even figure out how to access the settings you are mentioning,

 

growl. All the corals are in the new tank, and all I have to show it is the iPhone!

[Lawnman]

I can't even figure out how to access the settings you are mentioning,

 

growl. All the corals are in the new tank, and all I have to show it is the iPhone!

I suck with cameras to

[HarryPotter]

I suck with cameras to

 

":)"? Lol I know it's so tough. I have no style, as you can see from V1-V4 scape, so need all the help I can get!

 

I also bought my first handful of "sticks" (sps frags) and there's great PE. Sadly with the iPhone it looks like a blurry mess!

[cromag27]

Turn the dial to 'manual' and you will be able to set your own shutter speed and aperature. you'll also need to adjust the iso, dependant on how much light you have available. macro lenses come in a few different focal lengths. I love my nikkor 90mm macro. you'll also want to either set a custom white balance or shoot in raw format so you can change the white balance in post. forget using filters to correct for blue photos.

[HarryPotter]

Turn the dial to 'manual' and you will be able to set your own shutter speed and aperature. you'll also need to adjust the iso, dependant on how much light you have available. macro lenses come in a few different focal lengths. I love my nikkor 90mm macro. you'll also want to either set a custom white balance or shoot in raw format so you can change the white balance in post. forget using filters to correct for blue photos.

 

Thanks- too tired to try tonight but ill see tomorrow afternoon

[CJJon]

let's stick with the Nikon D3200. Good camera. I have the D5500.

 

Manual: http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D3200_EN.pdf

 

This is one way to take macro shots of your corals. There are many others, but this is what I do. I am no expert, nor do I claim to be.

 

First, you should have a tripod. Any cheap tripod will do. You can even use a step ladder or something too. Keep the lense perpendicular to the tank glass--don't angle the lens to the glass or try and shoot at an angle through the glass. Impossible to focus. You need to move the tripod (or ladder) side to side to frame the object.

 

I use real 1:1 macro lenses. I have a 35mm Nikon Nikor f1.8 and a 150mm Sigma Macro APO f2.8. I also have two tele extenders for the Sigma at 1.4X and 2X magnification. Gets me in real close. True macro lens is 1:1 in that the object will project a life size image on the sensor. Macro. You can also use extension tubes or an adapter that allows you to use your lens backwards, which provides high mag. which gets you close to 1:1 (or better). For most folks starting out the extension tubes are most common. They have no optics like a tele extender, so do not decrease light so much. They can be used with any lens.

 

On the camera, set the Mode Dial to A. What you can now do is set your aperture (f stop) manually and have the camera set shutter speed. Use the Command Dial to change aperture. Set it to at least f5.6 and monkey around all the way up to f32 or whatever is highest. You will notice the image gets darker with the larger number--less light is getting to the sensor. The shutter speed will also slow way down (tripod required). f11 is a good all around setting. ISO set to auto or 200 to 800. This is the light sensitivity. 200 is less sensitive and ISO of 3200 is good for very low light. However, it gets grainy set that high.

 

Now, plunk the camera on the tripod and center in a coral. Use the + button on the camera to zoom in the image on the camera screen. This will allow finer focus. Look in the manual and figure out the self timer mode and use it. That way no shakes from pushing the shutter release button. Now take a million pics.

 

Sorry for the inelegant brain dump, but that should get you close and will get the questions rolling. Google focus stacking for some real fun!

 

Maybe we should move any follow up into the Photography forum?

 

These are all just right out of the camera, no post processing.

 

[HarryPotter]

let's stick with the Nikon D3200. Good camera. I have the D5500.

 

Manual: http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D3200_EN.pdf

 

This is one way to take macro shots of your corals. There are many others, but this is what I do. I am no expert, nor do I claim to be.

 

First, you should have a tripod. Any cheap tripod will do. You can even use a step ladder or something too. Keep the lense perpendicular to the tank glass--don't angle the lens to the glass or try and shoot at an angle through the glass. Impossible to focus. You need to move the tripod (or ladder) side to side to frame the object.

 

I use real 1:1 macro lenses. I have a 35mm Nikon Nikor f1.8 and a 150mm Sigma Macro APO f2.8. I also have two tele extenders for the Sigma at 1.4X and 2X magnification. Gets me in real close. True macro lens is 1:1 in that the object will project a life size image on the sensor. Macro. You can also use extension tubes or an adapter that allows you to use your lens backwards, which provides high mag. which gets you close to 1:1 (or better). For most folks starting out the extension tubes are most common. They have no optics like a tele extender, so do not decrease light so much. They can be used with any lens.

 

On the camera, set the Mode Dial to A. What you can now do is set your aperture (f stop) manually and have the camera set shutter speed. Use the Command Dial to change aperture. Set it to at least f5.6 and monkey around all the way up to f32 or whatever is highest. You will notice the image gets darker with the larger number--less light is getting to the sensor. The shutter speed will also slow way down (tripod required). f11 is a good all around setting. ISO set to auto or 200 to 800. This is the light sensitivity. 200 is less sensitive and ISO of 3200 is good for very low light. However, it gets grainy set that high.

 

Now, plunk the camera on the tripod and center in a coral. Use the + button on the camera to zoom in the image on the camera screen. This will allow finer focus. Look in the manual and figure out the self timer mode and use it. That way no shakes from pushing the shutter release button. Now take a million pics.

 

Sorry for the inelegant brain dump, but that should get you close and will get the questions rolling. Google focus stacking for some real fun!

 

Maybe we should move any follow up into the Photography forum?

 

 

 

Holy crap nice!

 

My best "macro" (Terrible) is so shitty compared to those- just a picture zoomed in on. I have a bunch of lenses, but as far as I'm aware of no Macros.

 

Some 600--800, 60-130, etc.

 

Great lesson- tomorrow I will go crazy! Haha

[cromag27]

speaking as a professional photographer (semi retired), i will piggyback off cjjon's post with some additional advise.

 

yes, focus on the nikon. canon's make great doorstops though so don't throw it away.

 

tripods need to be stable. the cheaper the tripod, the less stable it will be. not everyone shoots with a tripod so if you feel you need one, do NOT go cheap here. the shutter 'slap' alone is enough to move some cheap tripods which will result in blurry photos. but you don't necessarily need a tripod just to learn the basics.

 

the cheap way to start with macro photography is by using extension tubes. they are simply different size metal 'extenders' that go in between your current lens and the camera body. no optics are involved. you won't achieve the same quality as a true macro lens, but the results are pretty good and very acceptable for our purposes. you can get a package of 3 different sizes on ebay for about $70. kenko would be my recommendation. you can also stack them and use any combination you want - it just depends on close you want to get to your subject.

 

i recommend manual mode because it gives you the most flexability. you limit yourself when you set the camera to shutter priority or aperature priority. those are useless settings imo, especially if you aren't familiar with how your camera's metering works.

you'll want to start by 'mastering' these basics: shutter speed, aperature, iso and how to read your exposure meter. these are the basics which together, create a perfectly exposed image. the good thing about digital is that you can take a photo, look at it, make a correction, take another photo, etc.

 

start by reading up on your exposure meter. the exposure meter tells you if your image will come out overexposed, underexposed or just right, based on the current camera settings. for the most part you'll want the meter to read in the middle for an evenly exposed image. by adjusting the shutter speed, aperature and/or iso, you can change the exposure to get it just right.

 

once you know how the meter works you can start taking photos of you tank. change your settings (again, in manual mode) to change your exposure. when you look at your photos you will be able to see how the different settings affect the photos. a lot of viewing software will also display the exif data of the files and show you the camera setting for that particular photo. i use adobe bridge for this purpose.

 

once you learn how to properly expose an image, then i would say it's safe to move onto macro. baby steps are sometimes best so you don't get too confused. you can also practice outside where you have more available light.

[RJWalters]

Some good info here I will have to refer back to it as well

[cromag27]

Forgot to touch on some other points cjjon made - turn off flow and only shoot perpendicular to the tank, as he mentioned. also, when using a tripod it is best to use the timer or a remote.

[HarryPotter]

Well! Progress! I took my best photo by FAR! No editing. I worked on the shutter speed and F (hitting 6.1) and finally- wallah!

 

 

 

Forgot to touch on some other points cjjon made - turn off flow and only shoot perpendicular to the tank, as he mentioned. also, when using a tripod it is best to use the timer or a remote.

 

 

Some good info here I will have to refer back to it as well

 

 

I suck with cameras to

 

 

F stop opens or closes the aperture of the lens. Lower f numbers the larger opening and less depth of field. Larger f number smaller opening more DoF. The larger the number the more light you need to shoot. You want more DoF so more of the object is in focus. Try f/11 and 1/5 or so shutter. Bracket shots.

Typing on iPhone now. PITA. More later!

[cromag27]

Nice results!

[CJJon]

More!

[HarryPotter]

More!

Haha I couldn't get the white balance right on the others. Tomorrow!

[CJJon]

Yeah, I need to make a waterproof white card to stick in the tank to set white balance. Can you use the WB setting from the one good pic and apply to the others in post?

[HarryPotter]

Um.... I don't think I can. Can I? Still can't get close macros!

[CJJon]

Um.... I don't think I can. Can I? Still can't get close macros!

Google "preset manual white balance Nikon d3200" this shows how to take a white frame and apply the WB settings in camera.

 

With Nikon Capture NX D software you can save adjusted picture controls and apply them to other RAW images, inuding your recoded WB shot.

 

Take some shots of a ruler to see if you are shooting at 1:1. Google "macro lens magnification and working distance"

[nidding]

Um.... I don't think I can. Can I? Still can't get close macros!

That photo doesn't look half bad

 

For "close macros" you need a proper macro lens. Unless the lens has macro written on it, you can be pretty sure it can't do macro. A lot of the zoom lenses, on the other hand, that DO have a macro stamp on them aren't actually true macro lenses, but just lenses that will focus close enough to approximate a macro.

As others have already said, if you want a lens that can do macro, you want to be looking at a fixed focal length lens that goes to 1:1.

You could also go a more DIY road, and start reversing lenses and using extension tubes. That can give some interesting results beyond 1:1. These pics were all taken with the techniques described in this thread and with a reversed 50mm lens

DSC_3257 by jonas_sandager, on Flickr

DSC_2758 by jonas_sandager, on Flickr

DSC_2756 by jonas_sandager, on Flickr