waveland Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I've ordered an IM10 Fusion as my quarantine tank while my DT goes fallow to get rid of the ich. The tank will be fish only, but I'd still like it to look nice, like a mini DT. That said can I add live sand and live rock and cycle it? (as opposed to a bare bottom and some pvc tubes) And....should I dose it with Cupramine and or anything else during the quarantine period? Seachem says the Cupramine won't adversely affect nitrifying bacteria on their Q and A page. Lastly, can I keep up to three fish (Pygmy Angel, Royal Gramma and Neon Goby) in a tank that size? I plan on keeping all fish in quarantine a minimum of 30 days. Many thanks for your input, Dave Link to comment
ajmckay Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I hate to say it but a QT should be bare bottom - this makes cleaning and maintenance much easier (you need to clean the tank more frequently). You can add rocks, pieces of PVC pipe, or clay flower pots but anything that gets treated is a no-no for any future display tank. In my QT tank I have a HOB power filter, a heater, and some live rock that is only for the QT - but I keep the tank running all the time. I would be really hesitant to add any new live rock unless you know for a fact that it's fully cured and won't have ANY die off. Besides, if you're treating for ich you should move quickly, I don't think you have the time to wait for a tank to cycle... One suggestion for future QT setups is to leave a filter sponge or some LR rubble in the sump somewhere and when you need to set up a QT you can grab it in a hurry and stick it in an HOB filter and bam - instant cycle on the QT. I usually do 50% water changes every few days - you'll have to test to find out how often you should do water changes but don't fall behind or ammonia will build up quicker than you can get rid of it. I don't think size is of particular importance for a QT tank. Link to comment
seabass Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Copper binds to calcium, so no reef rock or aragonite sand when dosing copper meds (besides making them inappropriate for use in the display, it will make the meds less effective). If you don't want to use PVC, maybe get some ceramic rock and silica sand. Link to comment
cjm3fl Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I've only kept Seahorses and Pipefish but all my QT have been bare bottom with artificial plants (hitches and hiding). As seabass said sand and rock reduce the effectiveness of treatments and meds. Link to comment
waveland Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Thanks for the input. I need to clarify one thing. I'm fishless now. I continued the Kick-ich treatment I had started at the beginning of my other thread and just as you all said....it didn't work. It took out my two remaining fish a week later So my quarantine tank will be for new additions once the DT has finished its fallow period. That said, I have the time to cycle a small tank and create an pleasing environment for my new fish (and me). Maybe my wording is off too, as it will be a quarantine/observation tank for my new fish. Do you still Cupramine your obsevation tanks prior to any new additions? Link to comment
cjm3fl Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Even when I get a hold of CB Seahorses I place them in a QT for several day (wild cuaght go in for few weeks). Injury, illness, and stress are easier to treat outside the display tank. It's also a good time to see that our new fish are eating, and producing waste, properly. I don't like putting medical treatments in my main tanks unless it's absolutely needed for those things already in my main tank, and by doing a proper QT period I generally avoid letting those things get in my tanks. Some of the treatments can also knock-back the needed cycling bacteria in our main tanks. True, Seahorses might be more "needy" than most marine fish but I'll be following the same regiment with all living things going into my reef set-ups, fish, CUC, corals. All my QT have been/will be 10g, bare-bottom, set ups with sponge filter and artificial plants. Link to comment
seabass Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I get what you are saying; you won't put meds in the QT/observation tank. That's fine, if you are willing to setup a hospital tank when needed. However, you could still do what I originally suggested (use non-calcium based rock and sand, just in case). No, we normally do not treat with copper just as a precaution. Link to comment
waveland Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 OK, so to hammer it through this thick head of mine.....if I put new fish in an un-medicated QT/observation tank and after 30 days I see no abnormalities, they are safe to add to the display tank? I thought a lot of LFS keep their fish in medicated tanks and that's why I thought it would be a good thing to do....just to be sure. On a lighter note, went surfing this morning and on the way back up the beach I saw a beautiful piece of live rock washed up in the sand filled with all sorts of interesting things.....I ran away!! Link to comment
cjm3fl Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 On a lighter note, went surfing this morning and on the way back up the beach I saw a beautiful piece of live rock washed up in the sand filled with all sorts of interesting things.....I ran away!! Good thing. There are laws down here in Florida about collecting LR without licenses/permits. No need finding troubles we don't need Link to comment
ajmckay Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 You coastal dwelling bastards! Always finding cool stuff... LFS charges $15/lb by me for uncured LR - good looking stuff but jeebus it costs a fortune... I misunderstood - didn't realize all the fish died - that blows... I think in that case then setting up a "display" QT is reasonable - and the best thing for the fish to have rock and lots of hiding places, etc... As already mentioned though if you need to treat you may have to set up yet another "hospital tank" specifically for treatment. IME 30 days is plenty for a thorough QT. If something bad is going to show up it probably will within 2 weeks, but doesn't hurt to give it a bit more time - especially if you need to treat for something. Treating fish prophylactically usually isn't needed - but IME benefits certain kinds of fish. Wrasses and angels I believe benefit from a treatment or 2 of praziquantel because it seems that these fish always come with flukes or worms or something. A few doses of metronidazole bound to food doesn't hurt either - actually that can sometimes be effective against mild crypto infestations though I doubt it's 100% effective. Probably don't need to go as far as treating with copper though - it's pretty harsh stuff I think best used when necessary. Good luck. Link to comment
seabass Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I thought a lot of LFS keep their fish in medicated tanks and that's why I thought it would be a good thing to do....just to be sure. It's pretty common; although I wouldn't use copper or antibiotics. Chloroquine is sometimes used. Here's a decent article on the subject: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/quarantining-marine-fish-made-simple Link to comment
lkoechle Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 If you are going use this tank as a hospital tank in the future, its a waste of money to set it up as a mini display. I use my hospital tankd as an excuse to play with freshwater decorations. I have a giantass castle, some fake plants, a smaller castle, and a triceratops skull for them to hide in. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 If you are going use this tank as a hospital tank in the future, its a waste of money to set it up as a mini display. I use my hospital tankd as an excuse to play with freshwater decorations. I have a giantass castle, some fake plants, a smaller castle, and a triceratops skull for them to hide in. Hahaha that sounds awesome. Admittedly in mine I use rocks from the back yard I would usually put in my FW tank but no fake plants or cool castles or skulls.. That's a pretty cool idea though - gives good hiding spots, easy to clean, and looks interesting (for a quarantine tank). Link to comment
waveland Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 If you are going use this tank as a hospital tank in the future, its a waste of money to set it up as a mini display. I use my hospital tankd as an excuse to play with freshwater decorations. I have a giantass castle, some fake plants, a smaller castle, and a triceratops skull for them to hide in. Where are the photos??? I want to see!! I think what I'm going to do, is to use the IM10 as a fish only observation tank, which I can transfer fish into the main DT after the 30 days of no problems period. And it looks like I'll be checking out Craigslist for a hospital tank. My wife's gonna think I'm nuts! (Or more nuts!) Thanks everyone for the input and advise. Link to comment
lkoechle Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Hahaha that sounds awesome. Admittedly in mine I use rocks from the back yard I would usually put in my FW tank but no fake plants or cool castles or skulls.. That's a pretty cool idea though - gives good hiding spots, easy to clean, and looks interesting (for a quarantine tank). Shoot, it's more then interesting. It's chock full of awesomeness. lol Where are the photos??? I want to see!! I think what I'm going to do, is to use the IM10 as a fish only observation tank, which I can transfer fish into the main DT after the 30 days of no problems period. And it looks like I'll be checking out Craigslist for a hospital tank. My wife's gonna think I'm nuts! (Or more nuts!) Thanks everyone for the input and advise. 55 QT (sorry for the poor quality, it faces my front windows and its an old tank, so cloudy glass) 5.5 Mandarin QT Link to comment
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