DIY LED controlled by BF mini

[MGP]

Hello everyone,

 

For my next project I want to enhance my current LED setup. I'm hoping to get some advice, as well as document my build.

 

I want my new set-up to incorporate the BlueFish mini controller, because I think it looks like a cool little device.

 

Here is what I have currently:

 

Tank: 20 gallon high

Corals: Mostly softies and LPS

Fish: 2 snowflake clowns

 

So for the new Light I am thinking of doing 5 channels

 

CH1: 8 RB + 4 Cool Blue

CH2: 4 Lime + 2 Cyan

CH3: 4 NW + 4 WW

CH4: 6 Violet

CH5: 4 RED

 

So this equals 36 LEDs

 

*I already have most of the LED's on the custom 3UP's from Steve

**I have the Red LEDs separate, I'm not sure if they are needed, but I figured it couldn't hurt to have a dedicated red channel for controller purposes? I'm not really sure

 

The LEDs are going to be split into two sides of a 12'' Heatsink

 

The Heatsink will be cooled by 2 Fans directing air at the fins

 

Other Supplies:

 

(5) Meanwell LDD-700h

 

(1) Coralux 5 UP LDD driver board

 

(1) Meanwell HLG-60H-48 power supply (Will this be adequate? Maybe a HLG-100H-48?)

 

(1) Bluefish mini (with the ribbon cable and power supply)

 

 

*** I'm also thinking of getting some kind of light diffusion material, any suggestions?

 

 

 

That's it for now, please let me know what you think

Another question that is eating away at me, and this sort of goes with my question about the red channel, is about getting to most out of the controller. Will my current channels/colors provide the controller with enough variability to make nice looking sunsets/sunrises? will it be able to do the storm functions properly? This being my first crack at a controller I am a little ignorant on how it operates and what is best for it

[Reefkid88]

With the whites you are using,reds are not needed,really. If anything I would put your blues on a different channel than your royal's unless they are on the 3ups. I wouldn't think you would need 4 limes either,I'd think 2 would be good enough for a 20 high.

 

I think the Mini can do sunsets,but as a whole and not individual colors. I could be completely on this one.

[MGP]

So ditch the 4 reds and 2 limes and bring the total to 30LEDs.

 

My question is with the lime and cyan on the same channel, will they be in balance? I think that's why I was using 2:1 Lime to cyan. I haven't really tested it though so maybe 1:1 would be okay?

 

So you are saying that the sunset/rise is basically all the same channel ratios (simplified example say 80% blue 30%white) just being ramped up or down at the same rate? I figured they would diminish the blue channels as it goes (or something along those lines) to have a warmer appearance to match a real life sunset?

 

Simplified Example with 2 channels to try and get my thinking across:

 

hour 1 into sunset ( 80%blue 30% white)

hour 2 (50% blue 20% white)

hour 3 (20%blue 15% white)

hour 4(10%blue 10% white)

and so on until its a moonlight setting

 

Now expand this to 5 channels for a more complex sunset

 

Maybe I'm over thinking it

[Benny314]

I agree, red is unnecessary with warm white.

 

Cool blue on it's own channel is also a good idea.

Check out the driver boards Jedi Ben has been using on his retro fit light unit, they actually have BF mini mounted directly to them. Very tidy looking.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/360629-jedimasterbens-nano-box-reef-ati-sunpower-retrofit/#entry5015259

[evilc66]

I would ditch the red and put the cool blue and the cyan on that channel, leaving the limes and the royals to be controlled by themselves. The cool blues and the cyans do very similar functions, and will work pretty well on the same channel.

[Reefkid88]

Just get a Storm lol.

 

We all overthink our lights. Plain and simple,but you can always simplify. But yeah the blues and cyan's could together. Should make for a nice color.

[MGP]

Ok so how about this:

CH1: 8 RB

CH2: 4 Lime

CH3: 4 NW + 4 WW

CH4: 6 Violet

CH5: 4 Blue + 2 Cyan

Any thoughts on the Power Supply?

[evilc66]

Your longest string is 8 LEDs long, so assuming about 3.2v per LED (this is extremely conservative, as the vf will most likely be lower at 700mA), you have a max total vf on the longest string of 25.6v. Add 3v for the LDD-H, and you are looking at 28.6v. This is the minimum voltage for the power supply. Now, seeing as you are running 5 strings of LEDs in parallel at 700mA, you would need a power supply with a current capacity of 3.5A. You really should add a buffer to that so the power supply isn't running at 100% load, so figure 4A for safety.

 

The initial HLG supply you picked out is 48v @ 1.3A, which isn't going to cut it (lots of unnecessary volts, but not enough current). A better option would be an HLG-120H-30 (30v @ 4A), or a CLG-150-30 (30v @ 5A).

[Caravanshaka]

 

Ok so how about this:

CH1: 8 RB

CH2: 4 Lime

CH3: 4 NW + 4 WW

CH4: 6 Violet

CH5: 4 Blue + 2 Cyan

Any thoughts on the Power Supply?

 

 

I like this much better than the original. This is very similar in color to the nanobox pucks, just some slight variation. Evil covered the power supplies for you.

[MGP]

Your longest string is 8 LEDs long, so assuming about 3.2v per LED (this is extremely conservative, as the vf will most likely be lower at 700mA), you have a max total vf on the longest string of 25.6v. Add 3v for the LDD-H, and you are looking at 28.6v. This is the minimum voltage for the power supply. Now, seeing as you are running 5 strings of LEDs in parallel at 700mA, you would need a power supply with a current capacity of 3.5A. You really should add a buffer to that so the power supply isn't running at 100% load, so figure 4A for safety.

 

The initial HLG supply you picked out is 48v @ 1.3A, which isn't going to cut it (lots of unnecessary volts, but not enough current). A better option would be an HLG-120H-30 (30v @ 4A), or a CLG-150-30 (30v @ 5A).

Thank you for the good information. It seems that there is a ten dollar difference in those two power supplies.

 

Is the HLG superior to the CLG?

 

What do the letters mean after the 30? there are 30, 30A, 30AB, 30C models

 

Thank you again, it seems I have much to learn about power supplies

Guess I'll do some reading when I get home

 

I like this much better than the original. This is very similar in color to the nanobox pucks, just some slight variation. Evil covered the power supplies for you.

Yeah, the more I look at it, the more I like it too

[evilc66]

Both are very similar in performance. I'm not 100% sure what the fine details are that sets them apart, but either will be more than sufficient for your needs.

 

As for the suffix designation:

 

'Blank' - Sealed to IP67. No internal or external voltage or current control. This is what you want for this application

A - Sealed to IP65. Current and voltage are adjustable via internal potentiometers

B - Sealed to IP67. Current is adjustable via external 0-10v, resistor, or pwm control (great if you are using this as a large LED driver)

C - (CLG only) Terminal block connections (versus flying leads). Voltage and current adjustable via internal potentiometers

D - (HLG only) Timed dimming function (special order only, so ignore this one)

 

All of this is available in the datasheets for the power supplies.

[MGP]

brilliant! thank you

[MGP]

OK, so here is a little problem I am having

 

I bought two fans and I am wondering how to power them. Can I use the LED power source somehow, or should I just use a dedicated fan power source?

 

Here is the fan

[jedimasterben]

You have to step the voltage down to 5-12v. Use a Meanwell SCW or a dedicated supply.

[HarryPotter]

Depends.... What voltage is the LED PSU? Maybe you can just splice off the 12v, no?

[evilc66]

The power supplies I recommended are 30v. Like jedi said, either use an SCW module to step the voltage from the power supply down to something the fan can deal with, or use a separate dedicated supply.

[MGP]

 

So I got a little distracted from my main focus of making this light for my reef tank and instead made something for my planted aquarium.

 

I used a simple 2 channel set up with

 

Channel 1: (4) WW, (4) NW, (2) Lime

 

Channel 2: (2) OCW, (2) Blue, (2) Violet

 

I'm running channel 1 at 700mA 85%. Channel 2 at 700mA 100%

 

Two separate heat sinks with half of the lights on either side, each cooled by a Noctua fan.

 

I'm really liking the colors now, I think the broad range highlights different colors in the tank very well and everything blends together to make a perfect looking light

[MGP]

Well I finally got all the pieces together and built the system. I used all of the components mentioned in this thread. Here are a couple pictures of everything I'm going to be mounting to a piece of plywood. 5 drivers, power supply, bluefish mini, and two noctua fans

Here's the bluefish mini ?

I decided it would be easiest to install everything on plywood and then insert into my canopy, the fans are under the heat sink and are extremely quiet. Very pleased with noctua

[MGP]

Wired everything up, took forever with 5 channels

It works! I was very surprised when everything worked on the first test

[Benny314]

I take it there's a splash guard going on to protect the BF, LDDs, LEDs and PSU from water damage?

[MGP]

Yeah, there is glass on top of the aquarium

[ajmckay]

Glass is good, but watch the condensation... Still seems like it would be better to have the power supply mounted remote. It would be easy enough to put it somewhere else because you would still just have the same power cord running up.

 

Anyways - I like the upgrade. I just started a thread on the exact same topic. Built my DIY LED fixture in February 2013 and now I want to mess with it again.

 

I also like your FW project - do you have a build thread for that? Because I'm possibly about to free up some white LEDs from my reef tank build so thinking I could do an array for my FW which right now has really lame lighting.

[MGP]

I also was concerned about possible corrosion occurring because of the location. I don't have a lot of space in the stand with my sump and plumbing in the way, so including everything in the canopy seemed like the best option. I did some measurements and I'm going to get additional glass and a piece of acrylic to better protect from water. Should be pretty easy and with the air movement from the 2 fans it should stay pretty dry.

 

I also am never satisfied, I'm sure in half a year I'll want to do more upgrades

 

Unfortunately I don't have anything for the FW light. I will say though I do like the colors with those diodes and channel configuration. Channel 2 is really cool color combination in my opinion and I enjoy it as a late evening light. Really makes the neon tetras stand out too.

[jedimasterben]

You couldn't pay me to put an open frame power supply that close to water lol. I would consider buying a Meanwell CLG/HLG/NPF power supply.

[MGP]

Well it's been a few weeks and everything is running really well. The biggest improvement is the noise reduction, I can't hear this aquarium at all with the lights, fans and sump it is undetectable. I installed a secondary glass cover to make sure no moisture makes it to the fixture, next I will apply the diffuser film to the glass