Nathan's Shallow Reef

[Nstocks]

The tank has been set up for 4 weeks now but the water is still cloudy, even after changes. It seems like it could be a bacteria bloom and I have diatoms growing on the live rock. Is this something I need to wait out or can inexpensively make the water clearer, even if it is bacteria? Skimmer isn't pulling much out, though there isn't any feeding for my CUC.

 

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 1

Phosphate 0.01

Alkalinity 8.3

(all salifert test kits)

[NanoFever]

Wow incredible build so far! Following! Who made your sump?

[Nstocks]

When I first set up the tank I planned to use two filter socks to catch detritus to keep the sump clean, however I found that 1) when water passes over the plastic rim on the socks, it creates a lot of noise and splashing and 2) the water doesn't flow over the second filter sock which was a waste of space.

 

 

I also needed more space for the remaining live rock so after cutting away the silicone, I removed the glass braces that held the acrylic sock holder and moved the skimmer into that section. To prevent as much detritus settling on the live rock within the sump, I created a new filter wool holder with black plastic grids. Not only is it far stronger than "egg crate", it also works out much better value.

Obsessively neat and tidy cabinet with easy access to controls

One problem I'm still not sure about is the cloudy water and ever increasing diatoms over the rock. Would Rowa help with silicates to reduce diatoms?

[Nstocks]

Skimmer died this morning. Luckily I have a very low bioload so nothing to worry about.

 

I'm thinking about going skimmer free. My stocking plans are quite light and I don't intend on having a huge amount of LPS.

 

I could probably make an algae scrubber by inserting a pipe in the second section, taking water from the first section overflow.

 

EDIT: Just realised that the algae would be almost fully submerged in water... I may look into the up flow version with an air stone. Either that or have a huge. I read that they both shouldn't be used as the scrubber can kill the macro algae.

 

 

[Nstocks]

BIG UPDATES

 

2 months have passed (where does time go) since I last updated this thread and lots have changes occurred since then.

 

First I will start with stocking. Two tank-bred Ocellaris Clownfish and a torch coral.

 

 

I had planned to keep the least equipment as possible after I initially wanted to grow a huge ball of cheato, however because of insufficient lighting in the sump, it never grew. All my LR became green so I stripped the sump to make more space as I felt all those chambers I previously had were inhibiting my options. Removing all the baffles opened up the sump for different filtration options

 

 

 

I used a small glass aquarium to section the return pump so that it only pumps a few litres, should the drains block (near impossible)

 

I was really upset with how the tank looked so I stripped it down tank down (also replacing the ball valve with a gate valve). Replaced the Fiji Pikn with KZ aragonite and replaced a leaking bulkhead. I replaced the constantly shifting Fiji pink sand with KZ aragonite.

 

 

In an effort to clear the algae bloom in the water column, I added a filter bag full of Rowaphos to the sump. One week passed with no changes so ​I replaced a Aqua Medic reactor in combination with Vertex ROX 0.8. The difference was noticeable within 2 days and it confirmed Bulk Reef Supply's own tests . Highly recommended.

 

To combat the extreme algae I bought a skimmer. First it was a Nyos 120 but after 2 days it too broke. I replaced it with a Deltec SC1351 and couldn't be happier with it. It's by far the best performing skimmer I've had, pulling out waste within 2 HOURS of turning it on! Not days or weeks to 'break in' but just a few hours. Even after cleaning it performs very well within a couple of hours. I modified the venturi to further silence it and raising it to 200mm water level made it even quiter (range is 150mm - 250mm)

 

Skimmate within 2 hours of turning it on

 

LIVESTOCK UPDATE

 

​My LFS has just started a 9 foot display tank with real reef rock that looks very real and natural. The green live rock (previously dead rock) I had was moved to the sump and I added 10KG of cured, living real reef rock to the display. I hope to add more but they had sold out.

I also picked up two zoa colonies and a red sea star, along with more CUC. I spent the next week travelling over 400 miles to source some quality corals.

One of the best suppliers in the UK had a huge show-grade duncan display

 

I picked up a birds nest frag, blue acropora, green acropora, can frag and MontiCap.

 

I finally found a Green mandarin Dragonet that I loved so I purchased him along with a royal gramma.

 

Mandarin hasn't been eaten much, despite 3L copepods I added in the display and 2L I added to the sump. I've tried a training box but he's not interested. Next up is some baby brine shrimp that should hatch tomorrow.

 

 

He loves the corner under the return line, along with the Royal Gramma

 

Overhauled sump setup

[Nstocks]

So I'm thinking about removing the weir box... I've already removed the black background that I think makes the tank feel too enclosed.

 

Only thing is, the tank has 3 holes drilled in the bottom so I'd probably need to use these pipes for drains/return but then I'd have 3 pipes on show Also, removing the glass weir supports might take away some of the silicone in the tank joints, so potentially a 7-day wait to for new silicone cure.

 

I've looked at a Mame overflow but my I'm concerned about noise, flooding and above all, a low waterline. Not to mention they are quite bulky contraptions, even if they are transparent.

 

I'd appreciate any thoughts on this; I hate to say it but I should have stayed with my original vision with a external overflow.

[nanolutionary]

As you can see I'm all about ditching the overflow box and having transparency all around.

[charnelhouse]

This build has seen more changes in 2 months than some around here in 5 years....

[Nstocks]

This build has seen more changes in 2 months than some around here in 5 years....

 

Creative license of an Architect

[charnelhouse]

 

Creative license of an Architect

 

As a construction professional, this explains a lot....

[Nstocks]

 

As a construction professional, this explains a lot....

 

Hahahaha! Then you know all too well.

 

It's all a learning curve

[brad908]

MAME is silent. The only way I think it can really overflow is if something gets up into the drain and clogs it.

 

The silencer piece for the MAME is a must.

 

Really nice tank, btw. I saw you posted in 4x5's thread about the MAME, so figured I would chime in.

[Nstocks]

The silencer is a fairly new addition, right? Does it stop air entering the drain line?

 

How far below the glass does your waterline sit, I understand it isn't adjustable with MAME?

 

Do you find it is easy for a snail to block the drain and is there any backup should that happen?

 

I have a JECOD 4000 DC controllable return pump. Would this be considered 'Safe' with MAME as I know there are just a few pumps that are recommended.

 

It's "rated for up to 100L" is that due to the slow flow rate? (around 3x per hour in my case)

 

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

EDIT: I remember your 18" low iron cube, loved that tank!

[Addinali]

Sweet looking tank I love the aquascape.

[brad908]

Not sure when the silencer came out, but yes it reduces the air. I really can't hear the MAME at all.

 

You can see my water line in this picture. This is the highest I've been able to make it. You do have the ability to make, maybe, half an inch in adjustments to the water level. You can also do some DIY to the drain piece and block the openings, so the water level has to raise to get over the blockage and into the drain.

 

There is no backup for a blockage, and I haven't had snail issues. Knock on wood.

 

You can see the drain section in this picture, and my idea of covering up the slots in the drain piece to raise the water level. This piece has a little knob on it, and that's how you can make adjustments to water level.

 

I'm not too sure on the pump. The MAME is pretty low flow, and I had to turn my return pump way down. I have the Hydor L40

[Nstocks]

In my research of external plumbing I came across this thread: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/245718-tightts-ada-60-f-project/page-2

 

The OP used a canister filter and two lilly pipes to drain and return the water. What I'd like to do is essentially turn my sump into a canister filter, but I'd need two pumps. The first which must allow for a pipe attachment on the inlet will suck water from the display (with a clever intake for surface skimming). The second will pump water back to the display, in a very small return chamber to eliminate any risk of flooding.

 

Is there any reason this would't work? It depends greatly on the costs, since I'd need two (small) pumps but its likely going to be cheaper than the MAME.

 

EDIT: This might not work. Pumping from the display will cause a siphon if the pump breaks. Although I can limit the volume being siphoned to the sump, I doubt my sump is large enough to accommodate for the excess water.

[brad908]

A small float switch slightly above the waterline will work. Once the switch flips up, then it will shut off the return pump and stop a flood.

[Nstocks]

A small float switch slightly above the waterline will work. Once the switch flips up, then it will shut off the return pump and stop a flood.

 

Too ugly to be in the display and it's an extra cord

[brad908]

You could just put like a piece of clear wire mesh in the drain section that sticks out of the water. That will block snails from climbing up and into the drain

[JR!]

You could just put like a piece of clear wire mesh in the drain section that sticks out of the water. That will block snails from climbing up and into the drain

i had a mame on my 60f for over a year and never once has a snail come close it it. lol but that would work

[Nstocks]

The concern is if the pumps fail really, but I would think with careful calculations there wouldn't be an issue.

 

For example, if the display can hold an extra 5Litres, I make sure the return can only pump back 4L AFTER the drain has taken out as much water as it can (siphon broke).

[brad908]

The concern is if the pumps fail really, but I would think with careful calculations there wouldn't be an issue.

 

For example, if the display can hold an extra 5Litres, I make sure the return can only pump back 4L AFTER the drain has taken out as much water as it can (siphon broke).

Oh, then you just have a concern with a sump set up. Not the mame specifically

[Nstocks]

Nope, the MAME will work fine (I think), my own solution that needs two pumps may not. Lily pipes look so elegant though, even compared to the MAME.

 

Is the MAME a full siphon or part siphon which would dictate the noise level.

[Nstocks]

I've found this: http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections/lily-pipes-16-22mm/products/lily-pipe-surface-skimmer-o17mm-16mm-22mm

 

It still requires a pump (or canister) and it's 32cm tall so tall for my tank.

 

Instead, I can take a standard lily pipe and add another cylinder with teeth at the top around it, acting as a very small overflow box for surface skimming. I can use O rings to secure the pipes together but I'd need to find a clear pipe with only one open end. It would also have a full siphon and be silent.

 

Only thing is the slow would be very low between the sump with 13mm pipework.

[MrNanoReef]

I love your DIY work, awesome!!!