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Coral Vue Hydros

Another DIY led...


dacianb

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A bit on prices to answer some questions I get ...
In Belgium, a Radion XR15w PRO is sold with 499 EU and this is at 75W ( so 6.65 EU / Watt) -
The light I am building is at 100W (dont forget that I am using 6W LEDs, but actually powered at 50%, in the end quite higher efficiency than 3W leds powered at full) and cost me less than 375 EU ( so less than 3.75 EU/watt).
Lets go a bit further on prices...
- LED board - I paid 25 EU / each on small qty. Going to 50-100 pcs price will drop to 7.5-10 EU (this is at Eurocircuits (BE / NL) - high quality supplier)
- LEDs - 6W Osrams cost around 3EU each in small qties. Going to higher volumes price will drop to around 2EU. Using 3W LEDs instead of 6W price will go to 1-1.25 EU / piece.
- Luxeon UVs (I used 2 pieces/ board) - such LED cost 30 EU each. Using instead the Semileds or other exotic type of leds probably I can buy them with 2-3 EU / piece (so a 10 times drop in price)
- fan - I used Noctua (with 6 years warranty and very silent ) which cost 20EU. An 92mm fan on eBay?? 3-4 EU each.
- Coralux driver board - I paid 12 USD + shipping into Belgium for each board. Each such board cost me almost 15EU. I have an offer from a local manufacturer of 3 EU / board if I order 50 pcs.

As you can see is not an expensive light even at very low quantities. I didnt count the assembly time (lets say max 1-2 hours if everything is set nicely) but still I am really happy on price.
Comments / suggestions?


 

Oh my... Why can't more enclosures be available like this!

 

As long I have it... this mean it is available :). Or can be made available

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In parallel with my module build I am doing a similar type of fixture, but with 400mm length, fan completely integrated into system (not above it as on short version) and 2X led boards - so around 200W power.
This is how light looks like for the moment

 

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Looking good. :)

 

The cost insight is cool too. Are you reflowing the LEDs to the boards yourself or is someone else doing that for you?

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Looking good. :)

 

The cost insight is cool too. Are you reflowing the LEDs to the boards yourself or is someone else doing that for you?

 

B) ... I am just working to lower the costs even more - and is possible. Yes, I am reflow the boards myself, but I have access to a pro level heating plate. I asked a company to reflow the LEDs for me, but price is 1EU / LED. This would add 32 EU per board.

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Something about mounting bridge...
It is made using industrial AL profiles black anodized and with dedicated connection systems, making a very rigid and durable system.
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On the inside there are channels to place wires inside and then to cover them with plastic profiles - so no wires visible.
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For the moment I installed it on my existing tank (Juwel Rio 180). What is not visible is that on back side (where profiles touches the glass edge) there are silicone profiles.

The 2 clamps block the bridge to fall accidentally into tank, but also if I turned them upside down the holes are perfect for hanging system.
Making them L shape allow to mount the bridge on top cover.
Anytime I can add some feets from same profiles to rise the lights higher if necessary.
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The test setup ...

 

post-85607-0-55904100-1431407699_thumb.jpg

 

All LEDs are at 1% but still camera is saturated - no colors visible.

 

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Rising the current at 10% already can see the PWM frequency waves on the image - weird :)


And finally got the covers for the 200mm version. By accident I get one black top cover (as ordered) and one white (as extra). I will check the look of both, of course.

 

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closeup shot of the mcpcb?

 

I have to try with my DSLR camera and not with phone.

But anyway, the UV leds makes the sensor crazy.

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Side cover and splash screen mounted, here is how things looks like:

- on first image it is visible the thermostat for fan and the fan connector

- second image - black cable is the 48V power in and the 2 jacks are for the 4 channels coming from Storm controller (or any other PWM controller in the future)

- third image is the bottom part with splash screen mounted, but not quite visible. I dont like the screws (ugly) and also the wires have to be thinner. For tests I will keep them as they are.


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Ever thought about painting those noctuas? They're great fans and that company makes great CPU heatsinks but that color is just awful IMO. haha.

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Ever thought about painting those noctuas? They're great fans and that company makes great CPU heatsinks but that color is just awful IMO. haha.

 

The manufacturer recommend to not paint them, as paint may unbalance the blades and increase the noise. Anyway, this is a test light on which I can add anytime a cover. But I will focus a bit more on the long version.

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And light is mounted on the tank and set to 50% on all 4 channels. Here is how things looks like.
I have a very ugly tank for the moment (please dont lough about it) - hope soon to change things.
Only one light mounted and still cover more than 50% of the tank from almost water level high (tank is Juwel 180 - 1 meter long)
post-85607-0-57437900-1431618777_thumb.jpg
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And more pictures, including some of the corals - as visible, even without red, orange, hyper-red LEDs, but just based on high CRI whites, colors are very nice.

 

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I like the look of noctua fans. Too bad they don't make 50mm versions.

 

they do 40 and 60 mm. But as smaller a fan, noisier become.

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I needed a 50mm specifically for a project the 60 is too big and the 40 doesn't have the airflow I need. :(

 

Oh well there are other good manufacturers out there.

 

You have a very long winded PM coming your way. :)

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I have a question for the electronics specialists


What smd resistor type should be best fit for bridge out the Osram Oslon footprint? I am talking about a 0 ohm resistor, of course. Max current 1A.
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A 1210 package (3225 metric) should bridge the gap pretty well. Vishay CRCW12100000Z0EA is rated up to 5A

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