dacianb Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Some time ago I started a topic asking people around what and how about a LED DIY... http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/350859-new-diy-led-light-questions/ Also I studied since more in detail and I think is time to show my progress on light. This is the main idea - a complete DIY light system (including mounting bridge) compatible with RedSea Reefer 350 - not yet bought but planned for near future (tax return gift) As requirements - have to be mounted on the tank itself (I dont like hanging lights), to look nice and be silent. All components and parts will be top quality, no ebay style. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 First step was to design a LED board, as none of the off-the-shelf boards were what I needed. Requirements would be to have Luxeon Z style and Osram style footprints on as high density possible to avoid "disco effects" and also high penetration. Size of it 90x90 mm with 32 LEDs on 4 channels (approx 100W):Channel 1 - 2 x Luxeon Z Channel 2 - 12 x OsramChannel 3 - 12 x Osram Channel 4 - 6 x Osram Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Why Luxeon Z's for only 2 LEDs? Also, what is the LED arrangement for the other three channels? Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 Why Luxeon Z's for only 2 LEDs? Also, what is the LED arrangement for the other three channels? Luxeon Z footprint is used by Luxeon UV leds too. So there will be 2xLuxeon UVs. This is how leds are distributed on the board. the board with LEDs on: - channel 1 - 2xLuxeon UV at 420-425nm - max current 1A - channel 2 - 12 x Oslon Square Deep Blue - powered at 1A, but those leds can handle 1.8A - so high efficiency and increased lifetime - channel 3 - 12 x Oslon Square White - 4500K with high CRI =85 - powered at 1A, but those leds can handle 1.8A - so high efficiency and increased lifetime. Using high CRI leds makes other colors (red, green, etc) useless - channel 4 - 4xOslon Signal Blue + 2xOslon Signal Verde (505 nm) - powered at 1A too Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 The LuxZ UV's are nice, but man, are they pricey. I know it's too late now, but a Semileds option would have been far cheaper and has the same 3535 footprint to the Cree/Osram LEDs. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 The LuxZ UV's are nice, but man, are they pricey. I know it's too late now, but a Semileds option would have been far cheaper and has the same 3535 footprint to the Cree/Osram LEDs. I know that Luxeon UVs are more pricey than china leds, but in my opinion worth the money. All leds I used are more expensive than regular ones, but I put 6W leds on board and use them at 50% capacity. Worth the money? Yes, for sure. Every single component in this project is expensive and good quality- will see this further. I will not do any compromise just for few bucks. My everyday job since 15 years is to design lights with LEDs for most craziest industries / applications you can imagine... It is part of my job actually to test and over-test all leds on market. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Cooling story - each board is capable of approx 100W at full power, on a small footprint - so cooling have to be efficient - but also be good looking and silent. So I took 2 heatsinks into tests - one extruded al, but black anodized (corrosion resistance) and also a high density copper heatsink based on vapor chamber technology capable of cooling up to 180°C on a 90x90mm size. I hoped that the copper heatsink will be enough without fan on it, but temperature rise up to 75-80°C if board at full power. Sure, for LEDs would be no problem such a temperature, but if I accidentally touch it . So, two alternatives - either to use the board at 75% of capacity, or to add airflow into design. In this case also the al heatsink would be enough, so I just quit the copper version (a friend of mine specialized in such corrosion stuff warned about copper above salt environment) Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 As decided earlier, I will need airflow. So I went for long hours on computer tuning websites/forums searching for best candidate fan. and I found this guy - 92mm x 14mm, 12dB noise level (lower then a whisper), rated for 150 000 working hours (over-passing the LEDs rated at 100 000) and with 6 years warranty. Should I add as feature the anti-dust sticking special surface? Also loved the look and feel of it. Of course, few times more expensive than a regular fan, but you have to see it and hear it (sorry, not to hear it during spinning) to understand that worth all the money. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Curious. Why Osram? I know they make quality products, Luxeon and Cree are just more commonly seen. Digging the fan choice. If Noctua made 24V 40mm*10mm fans is have one in my mini tide right now. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Curious. Why Osram? I know they make quality products, Luxeon and Cree are just more commonly seen. Digging the fan choice. If Noctua made 24V 40mm*10mm fans is have one in my mini tide right now. There are many reasons for Osram - you already answered yourself to the first reason. Price wise those are not above Luxeons, so for same money, better quality. You can add here availability of 6W and 3W leds on same footprint, low thermal resistance, high max temperature, high CRI selections for whites, availability of any color (excluding violets), but including 660nm and 730 nm (eventual for sump / refugium), moisture resistance, vibrations etc. Noctua have 40*10mm fans at 5V and 12V and for 4-5 USD you can add a DC/DC converter to the system to convert your 24V into 12 or 5V. This is how I am doing things too. Main supply of fixture is 48V, but I have a DC/DC converter for fan. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 This is how board design looks like - all electrical and thermal circuits visible Link to comment
tdannhauser30 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I wish I knew enough about Lighting to make something like this it looks awesome Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Power board - nothing special here. "Standard" Coralux 6 driver board with 4x Meanwell LDD 1000H drivers. The changes I made - soldered the wires directly on board as I didnt like the screw connectors provided and also adapted a small DC/DC converter (the small black part) for fan (actually convert the 48V in to 12V required by fan) Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 And this is how the light modules will look like in the end. Can choose any colors for covers, but probably will go for black. Size is 200mmx150mm with one LED board of 32 LEDs - around 100W consumption Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Initial idea was to make the top cover look like a spider web, but I get lazy and went to such hexagons air inlets. Also at first I thought to make covers with a semitransparent, frosty look and place some leds inside light and use the extra dimming channels I have to change the color of fixture depend my mood. But I keep the idea for Version 2 of the light. I can change the covers easily anytime if I will change my mind (is similar to phone covers) - every week a new look, a new color Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 This is the light seen from above (no covers / fan) mounted yet. On the right side of it there is a thermal switch which will turn the fan ON/OFF depend by light temperature, together with the fan connector. It is an industrial grade thermostat, with more than 100 000 clicks life. The fan will start when main plate temperature reach 50°C and will be off at 30°. And a side view of fixture: Link to comment
Horerczy Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Reminds me of some of the more industrial looking custom computer builds out there. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Reminds me of some of the more industrial looking custom computer builds out there. this good or bad?? My job is to design led lights for very specific industries, but honestly was never in computer industry. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Looks sharp. Who makes the extrusions for the enclosure sides? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 this good or bad?? My job is to design led lights for very specific industries, but honestly was never in computer industry. As long as it's cohesive it's all good to me. Link to comment
dacianb Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Looks sharp. Who makes the extrusions for the enclosure sides? The side rails are actually made for industrial grade enclosures and have lots of channels for boards inside. I know there are coming from Germany, but I get them via a friend of a friend ... I dont know if are available on webshops or for individual customers. But I know the machines made with such profiles and finally get few pieces As long as it's cohesive it's all good to me. lol ... dont see it, but there are 6 screws keeping the main plate fixed to side profiles, + 4 screws on power board, but also keeping the 2 sides at fixed distance and will be another 8 screws on side covers, making things probably more rigid enough. Link to comment
WhiteWulfe Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 And this is how the light modules will look like in the end. Can choose any colors for covers, but probably will go for black. Size is 200mmx150mm with one LED board of 32 LEDs - around 100W consumption ScreenShot1.jpg Oh my... Why can't more enclosures be available like this! Link to comment
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