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Need help with DIY full spectrum LEDs


WmTasker

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This is my build thread to see my DIY LEDs and Controller along with everything else with my reef. I have a DIY led light that I need help tying to reconfigure for optimal lighting. I am looking for any input or suggestions on how to redo my lighting configuration. Im not looking to buy a new fixture. I might be up for getting a few different drivers or additional LEDs.

This is currently what I have:
6 x Solderless Hyper Violet LED - 430nm
13 x Solderless CREE XT-E Royal Blue 450nm-455nm
4 x Solderless Cool Blue - 475nm
2 x Solderless Turquoise - 495nm
6 x Solderless Deep Red - 660nm
8 x Solderless CREE XT-E Neutral White (4500K)
1 x 250w 48v 5.2A DC Power Supply
5 x Meanwell LDD-700HW LED Driver
Here is the current configuration:
  • LDD1 = 2 White for Moon light
  • LDD2 = 4 deep red and 1 royal blue for refugium
The main tank using 3 drivers:
  • LDD3 = 12 Royal Blue
  • LDD4 = 6 white, 3 hyper violet, 1 cool blue
  • LDD5 = 2 turquoise, 2 deep red, 3 cool blue, 3 hyper violet
I run this configuration for about 12 hours. 4 hours of ramping up, 4 hours of peak, 4 hours of dimming to off. During the peak 4 hours: LDD3 runs 80%, LDD4 runs 50%, and LDD5 runs 80%. I keep the same ratio as the LEDs ramp up and dim.
I am thinking about changing to:
  • LDD3 = 12 Royal Blue
  • LDD4 = 6 White, 4 Cool Blue
  • LDD5 = 2 Deep Red, 2 Turquoise, 6 Hyper Violet
I would just use my current LDD drivers. Then I would try and experiment to see what percents to run the LEDs.
Second thought is: Buy LDD-1000 to run the 12 Royal blues and a LDD-300 to run the moonlight since the 700 drives them a little bright. But now I would have a few extra LDDs and I could divide the LEDs up differently and maybe add a few more if my power supply will handle it. If I ran all 7 LDDs I would only be at 4.8 amps. Maybe add a few more LEDs. Maybe change a few refugium LEDs.
Maybe I could divide the main tank up to 4 LDDs:
  • LDD3 (1000mA) = 12 Royal Blues
  • LDD4 (700mA) = 8 White
  • LDD5 (700mA) = 8 Hyper Violet
  • LDD6 (700mA) = 2 Turquoise, 2 Deep Red, 6 Cool Blue
Any input is welcome.
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First off,your original build is really nice.tank and all. But you could really cut the Reds (and probably the Cyan's) out seeming the whites you're using.

 

Maybe something like:

 

D3- 12-16 Royal Blue's

D4- 1-2 Vero 10's 90CRI (I'd probably opt for a 350-500mA LDD for this or turn it way down)

D5-4-6 410nm violet and 4-6 430nm hyper violets

D6- 6-8 True Cool Blue's

 

I'm sure Ben will chime in on this,as well as the Vero's. Take what I said with a grain of salt lol I always like to tell people way more leds than they need. But you can control them,so what I said shouldn't be a problem.

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Vero 10 97CRI is super cheap @ <$6 and put out a ton of power. Also the spectrum cannot be touched by Cree and the only Luxeon that comes close is the CoB Crispwhite at twice the price.

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Vero 10 97CRI is super cheap @ <$6 and put out a ton of power. Also the spectrum cannot be touched by Cree and the only Luxeon that comes close is the CoB Crispwhite at twice the price.

Link?

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http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BXRC-30H1000-B-03/976-1175-ND/3913156

 

Combine with V10 5000K 90CRI

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BXRE-50G1000-B-04/976-1229-ND/4867058

 

Add some Luxeon lime, royal blue, cool blue, and cyan with violets are you are set.

 

Run the 2 bridgelux whites on the same channel at same power.

Thanks. I've heard of them a couple of times but never found a link to where to buy them. Just articles about them.

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Your tank pictures in the build thread look very nice. Why do you wish to change your lighting?

 

 

It more about the look I think. It has a ton of blue. It looks good to the eye, but pictures are hard to get nice ones. I want to try and encourage growth so I'm thinking I need more white and UV.

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I think adding controll of more channels via a third driver might give you the ability to fine tune the color.

 

You can free up a driver by putting the moonlights on the same driver as your fuge and running the fuge on an opposite light cycle. To dim the moonlights while maintaining full power on the fuge lights you could wire the two whites in parallel, they'll each see half the current.

 

Digitial cameras just have trouble dealing with RB LEDs. The CCD seems to see the blue better than our eyes do. White balance settings and/or post processing seem to be the way to best deal with it.

 

As for growth, that's anyones guess. Some claim no whites are best. without an a/b test you'll never really know.

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I think adding controll of more channels via a third driver might give you the ability to fine tune the color.

 

You can free up a driver by putting the moonlights on the same driver as your fuge and running the fuge on an opposite light cycle. To dim the moonlights while maintaining full power on the fuge lights you could wire the two whites in parallel, they'll each see half the current.

 

Digitial cameras just have trouble dealing with RB LEDs. The CCD seems to see the blue better than our eyes do. White balance settings and/or post processing seem to be the way to best deal with it.

 

As for growth, that's anyones guess. Some claim no whites are best. without an a/b test you'll never really know.

 

I was thinking about adding another LDD, but I can't combine the my fuge and moonlight. The moonlight is on a controller for lunar cycle.

 

If you're worried about growth, Dana Riddle has a wonderful article on the subject of photosynthesis in coral.

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/5/aafeature

 

I will read this the first chance I get. There looks like theres a ton of information there.

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