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jedimasterben's planted tank light build


jedimasterben

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jedimasterben

Yeah yeah, reef forum, not planted, etc, etc. STUFF IT :)

 

So my planted tank has been on CFL for a while because of its location, couldn't hang anything, couldn't put a light bracket, etc etc, so had to find something with a gooseneck. In the FS section a couple weeks ago I saw an old Nanocustoms Unibody someone had and I had to have it :)

 

Test fit - score!

20150323_180441.jpg

 

 

So I got it, popped the old LEDs off, cut and removed all the wires, took the drivers and all the dimming stuff out of the driver boxes, removed the fan, etc, to get it prepped to paint it. Gonna primer and paint it white. Dave is going to be sending me a gooseneck to use, this one is all rusty and stripped, and the clamp is gigantic.

20150323_220141.jpg

 

 

The bottom of the heatsink has three 20mm channels for LEDs to go into, so my original plan to use Vero 18 5600K 90CRI for my cool white went out the door. Plan as of now is as follows:

 

Planted%2520tank%2520array%2520vero.png

 

2x Bridgelux Vero 10 3000K 97CRI BXRC-30H1000-B-03

2x Bridgelux V10 5000K 90CRI BXRE-50G1000-B-04

2x LEDgroupbuy 430nm hyper violet

2x Rebel ES royal blue

2x Rebel blue

2x Rebel cyan

4x Rebel ES lime

 

 

Everything will be run on LDD-300H and 350H on an O2Surplus PCB, with the two types of Vero being run in parallel to further reduce maximum current, powered by an HLG-120H-48A, an SCW05C-12 will power the little fan, and all controlled by the Bluefish.

 

Should be awesome once it is done. :)

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God bless bro,you trying to fry everything lmao ?!!

 

I've been trying to get my brother n law to convert to leds from a old ass Current T5 fixture lol.

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jedimasterben

God bless bro,you trying to fry everything lmao ?!!

 

I've been trying to get my brother n law to convert to leds from a old ass Current T5 fixture lol.

This whole fixture at full power will only be like 25 watts or so.

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jedimasterben

Is your planted tank 24" long?

It's a Mr. Aqua 13.3g bowfront, so it's 24"x12"x12", with the width measured from the farthest point in the bow.

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True,you did say it's be ran at 300-350mA. I'm sure par will still be pretty damn good lol.

 

In a planted tank you want ~100 PAR at the maximum and you have to be injecting CO2 and dosing ferts to keep up. Just the two Vero alone can output that easy in his tank. I had 6 Vero 18's in my planted tank hanging 3ft high from the substrate and at 1A power I was pushing close to 500 PAR.

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jedimasterben

Yep, that's why I'm glad I have a PAR meter and will be using a Bluefish so I can very easily alter the output to fit what my tank needs (which is LOW). :)

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It's just surprising that plants need such low of light lol. Idk why that surprises me. What're you planning to keep ?

 

 

 

I really think we need a planted tank section,even though it's a reef forum,just saying lol. I've been trying to get my brother n law to switch to Luxeon M's for his 40 breeder:

image_49.jpg

 

I promise that'll be the only picture lol :D

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And then Ben got bored and took the light apart to use Flare boards he was secretly designing with Dave that use Luxeon T diodes and Limes.

 

:P

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jedimasterben

It's just surprising that plants need such low of light lol. Idk why that surprises me. What're you planning to keep ?

 

I really think we need a planted tank section,even though it's a reef forum,just saying lol. I've been trying to get my brother n law to switch to Luxeon M's for his 40 breeder:

http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae79/Reefkid88/Mobile%20Uploads/image_49.jpg

 

I promise that'll be the only picture lol :D

Why Luxeon M? They aren't available with high CRI like the Vero series.

 

Planning to keep everything that is already in it lol

 

IMG_20150107_161523707.jpg

 

And then Ben got bored and took the light apart to use Flare boards he was secretly designing with Dave that use Luxeon T diodes and Limes.

 

:P

Well, with this heatsink I actually can't do that, but that was actually the plan, I've already purchased the cool white Luxeon T and everything, but seeing as the Luxeon T typically requires pick and place to mount... kinda poses a problem for someone that has never done any reflow soldering lol

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I really like that driftwood !! What substrate did you use ? So no schrimpsss either (some RCS or Blueberries would be killer) ?!

 

I didn't really think it'd be a bad go with M's. I FIGURED he could get away with using those. What about Nichia,seeming they're 90 CRI & how many would suffice ?

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jedimasterben

I really like that driftwood !! What substrate did you use ? So no schrimpsss either (some RCS or Blueberries would be killer) ?!

 

I didn't really think it'd be a bad go with M's. I FIGURED he could get away with using those. What about Nichia,seeming they're 90 CRI & how many would suffice ?

Substrate is Black Diamond blasting sand (aka coal slag).

 

IMG_20140820_212707166.jpg

 

Depends on drive current and the PAR you want. hoppy from TPT has a PAR calculator, just input the LED lumens at the desired current, height, optic angle, and spacing, and it gives you the estimated PAR.

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Oh damn,you do have some. Are those blue velvets ? I love red crystals and blueberries,me and my brother n law had both in his 40 but one of the 25 fish he had kept munching down on them.

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jedimasterben

Oh damn,you do have some. Are those blue velvets ? I love red crystals and blueberries,me and my brother n law had both in his 40 but one of the 25 fish he had kept munching down on them.

Blue velvet sounds familiar, but like corals, I don't really care what they're called, they're just blue Neocaridina heterpoda lol.

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I know what you mean. Honestly,I find planted (or freshwater stuff) harder to remember lol. My brother n law remembers all that shit while I semi remember saltwater corals names. Regardless,I love those shrimp.

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jedimasterben

Used a grinder earlier to remove the old thermal epoxy from the heatsink.

 

Heatsink and temp gooseneck painted, flat white for the heatsink, Rustoleum 'Lagoon' for the gooseneck and acrylic cover.

20150403_145621.jpg

 

20150403_145619.jpg

 

 

Shade blew this one out.
20150403_145603.jpg

 

 

Better pic of the color. Also decided to paint my grandpa's homemade wind chime lol
20150403_145553.jpg

All LEDs and drivers arrived, as well, so I'm going to get to work soldering everything up. Once the replacement gooseneck arrives from Nanobox all I'll have to do is remove the wires from the drivers (they will be color coded), unscrew the old one, screw in the new one, sleeve and heatshrink the wires (won't be bothering to do that until I have everything 'final'), and hook it all back up.

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RayWhisperer

Stupid Jedi kid stole my idea and did it the cheap way....

 

Actually, truth be told. Stupid Jedi kid influenced half of my idea.

 

Stupid Jedi kid, I wanna see how everything is controlled and powered and whatnot. The way this is going, I'm going to have 400 square feet of equipment to power one light. I've gotta get this all nailed down before I buy the rest of my stuffs.

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RayWhisperer

Ass fish is long gone, as is everything else. I tore my tank down long ago. Took a much needed break from fish stuffs.

 

New tank? Anthias? School of em? That mean a big tank?

Does the stupid Jedi kid not want reef talk in his planted tank thread?

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jedimasterben

Stupid Jedi kid stole my idea and did it the cheap way....

 

Actually, truth be told. Stupid Jedi kid influenced half of my idea.

 

Stupid Jedi kid, I wanna see how everything is controlled and powered and whatnot. The way this is going, I'm going to have 400 square feet of equipment to power one light. I've gotta get this all nailed down before I buy the rest of my stuffs.

:lol:

 

The control/power is pretty simple. LEDs go to the LDD driver board, the driver board is powered by an HLG power supply, and the Bluefish controller lead go into the LDD board to control them. I'll get some pics once I have it all together. The thermal epoxy I'm about to use takes a good while to dry.

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