Bayou Reef Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 I got a brown hair algae issue. I've read several options, but none are definite. However, altering light cycle is not an option for me being its on a 12 hour ramp with 4 hours full cap. What would you do? Link to comment
natalia_la_loca Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 more info needed about your tank. Size, livestock, feeding regimen, maintenance schedule etc. pics would help too. Link to comment
xmas_one Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Cutting the photoperiod back a few hours might be a good start. Link to comment
CCXGT Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Sorry... Why can't the lighting schedule be changed? Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Check levels. Adjust feeding frequency/what you feed. Beef up your CUC. Run GFO. Start with testing your levels though (po4 mainly), also check your mag, if you can raise your mag it could help get rid of the HA. Link to comment
Bayou Reef Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Running chemipure with chaeto. Macro halimeda in show. Feeding regimen with baby brine 2x / week. No fish. 4 hour ramp up 4 hour constant and 4 hour ramp down. Could change but would prefer not to. 9x 3 watt crees. Tank is 15 gal aqueon column roughly 13x13x24. 3 blue, 3 cool white on separate channels and deep blue, red and green on special channel. Ramp is 20-40-60-80-100 special is 5-10-15-20-25 all percentage based. Using micmol aquamini color 2. Never had issues until i moved tonew house a mknth ago and lost my goby to temperature stress. Its obvious nitrate problem but my water change schedule is 2 gallons/week because i have roughly 10 gal surface. Also bed is cc and really wanna convert to shallow sand. Ac70 fuge mod with chemipure before chaeto. I'm not a newb but this is my first nano. Its 6.5 months old. I dont dose anything except change my chemipure once every 3 months. Its almost a useless thread, just seeing others opinions on the matter. Cant stand the sight of it and hate manual removal due to depth on such a small surface area. tank stock includes african tree nephthea, kenya tree, brown shrooms, peppermint 2 red legs and 4 astreas with a lot of limpets and baby brittle stars. I rinse my brine everytime i feed. When i had fish i fed brine or nls pellets every day but in small amounts Link to comment
smeagol108 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Crushed coral can leak phosphates after a while, varies by source. Have u checked your phosphates? Link to comment
Bayou Reef Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 My guess would be 3 gallon / wk wc. Not ready to add more cuc due to die off. Aggrivating to the max lol No tests recently, will have lfs test water this afternoob Link to comment
farkwar Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Whats the need to test? You can see the algae with your eyes. Phosphates are too high. So are nitrates. Algae can suck up loose nutrients before it ever hits your test tube. I bet you a 3 dollar damsel, when you do test, it reads low phosphates, maybe even zero. Ps, I had that ugly lynbya brown crap algae in one of my tanks. Added a All In One Bio Pellets and some snails. It's pretty much in check now. I still get normal brown algae that grows on glass, but the furry stuff is mostly gone. Pss http://www.marinedepot.com/NP_Biopellets_All_In_One_Biopellets_Biofiltration_Nutrient_Control-NP_Biopellets-XB67262-FIFMBOBC-vi.html I used a whole 250 on a 40b. Took a couple to 4 weeks before it was noticeably working. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Yeah, don't test where the nitrates may be at before adding biopellets or any other form of carbon dosing, just go in blind. Link to comment
farkwar Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Yeah, don't test where the nitrates may be at before adding biopellets or any other form of carbon dosing, just go in blind. If the test gives a false negative, which it will, what good is it? No blindness involved, I can see when my nutrients are too high by the algae growth. Maybe other people's eyes work differently. Link to comment
Cencalfishguy56 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Bigger water changes till you get it in a control and throw some kind of phosphate removal in the AC, plus if you manually removed rocks and scrubbed this would help a ton granted Idk how easy it would be for you to remove rocks If the test gives a false negative, which it will, what good is it? No blindness involved, I can see when my nutrients are too high by the algae growth. Maybe other people's eyes work differently. I do the samething man, no testing needed when you can judge it by the rate of algae growth lol Link to comment
smeagol108 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 So again not solving the issue, but maybe some more ceriths and or astreas. I had a gha issue in my six gallon and ten astreas added to the tank took with the five or so ceriths I had already took care of the issue in like three days. I then removed half the astreas and only left five in there so they wouldn't die off. Problem has not returned. Link to comment
Bayou Reef Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 I thought about tossing a turbo in as well. I'll probably dump a 5 gallon wc and some sort of ph reducer just to see. Is it possible for it to fade in time or is that just a bs statement for the lazy Link to comment
HM3105 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 I thought about tossing a turbo in as well. I'll probably dump a 5 gallon wc and some sort of ph reducer just to see. Is it possible for it to fade in time or is that just a bs statement for the lazy Increase your water changes, add the phosphate reducer and manually pull out as much as you can. Also, take a turkey baster to the rocks and get all the gunk out of the crevices and caves. It'll pass on its own in time. I had the exact same thing happen to my tank when I moved it and it took about 2-3 months to get back to normal. I just increased my water changes to somewhere around 30%-40% weekly and ran GFO and Purigen. Link to comment
Bayou Reef Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Preciate advice. Gonna go for 30% wc weekly with chemipure blue and poly filter. Lfs highly recommended the combo. Phosphate reducers create way to much reaction and chaos therefore they dont sell any. Gonna convert to sand in a few months as well. Link to comment
Cencalfishguy56 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 My turbo died, did not eat GHA and ended up dying adding to the problem man I had to do the work by myself lol Link to comment
porkchop-rob Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Phosphate reducers create way to much reaction and chaos therefore they dont sell any. Can you elaborate on this for me? Link to comment
Azedenkae Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Question, is the brown algae causing any particular problem? Link to comment
Bayou Reef Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 No problem, just a nuisance. I think i got it under control. Chemipure, poly filter pad, 50% wc. Scrubbed what i could with tooth brush Also reduce white led intensity, 8300k Link to comment
amphipod Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Snails, asterina stars, and some amphipods can obliterate algae Link to comment
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