BioCube 29 Build Thread

[Greshman]

Hi All,

 

I thought I'd post my progress as I put together my first BC29. The purchases and modifications I've made thus far have been largely based upon my readings on these forms along with some other outside information. My intention is to share my experience with those who are new to the hobby who might be thinking of doing a similar build. I also welcome any advice from those who have gone before.

 

To start I thought I'd list my initial purchases:

 

1. Coralife 29 Biocube with stand

2. Steve's LED retrofit - 12K JMS Special (6NW, 6 Lime, 12 RB, 4 CB) with Bluefish controller

3. MP10-QD powerhead

4. 25lbs BRS Pukani dry rock

5. AquaticLife 115 protein skimmer (Chamber 1)

6. InTank media basket (Chamber 2)

7. InTank fuge basket (Chamber 2)

8. Cobalt MJ1200 pump (Chamber 3)

9. Cobalt 100w heater (Chamber 3)

10. Spin Stream - modified spinning return head

11. Nano flipper algae scrapper

12. Instant Ocean Reef Crystals (160g)

13. ATS Refractometer

14. Hanna 736 ULR phosphate checker

15. Rea Sea Marine Care test kit (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ph, KH)

16. SeaKlear phosphate remover (1 Qt)

17. Sure Grip 50 - Magnet set (to modify AL 115 skimmer)

18. 2x 5g buckets with lids

19. 20g rubbermaid tub

20. ChemiPure Elite

21. Purigen

22. Submersible LED for fuge basket - Thanks kidnatural!

23. Dremmel - used to make AL 115 mods

 

 

I'm currently curing my BRS dry rock which I will get into later in the thread. I still need to purchase some live sand, but I don't expect to the get the rocks setup in the tank until 2-4 weeks when the dry rock cure is complete, so I have some time...

 

[Greshman]

 

Here is a picture of my BC29 sitting on top of the BC stand. The stand was very simple to put together. Had to really pound a few of the pieces into their slot, but came away with a sturdy foundation. I highly recommend the purchase.

 

 

This is a picture of my RODI setup which I purchased from SpectraPure. The guys over at BRS have some pretty good youtube videos on how to modify the plumbing under the sink to accommodate this necessary piece of equipment. The black line is your water intake. It runs to ball valve which can shut on/off the flow to the RODI unit. The red line is waste water which connects to the yellow line and is plumed into the "P-trap" which is the name of the U shaped PVC pipe. Finally, you have a blue line which is your purified water. They say to run it without the cartridge in chamber 3 for an hour first, so I did that. The only negative comment I have so far is that it's producing at less than 50% of it's advertised rate. It's supposed to produce at 90g/day and I'm at 40g/day (1.7g per hour). I also understand that these devices have a break in period as well, so time will tell. I've been getting about 40 psi which is on the low side of the green section of the dial, so maybe I don't have the best pressure. Hard to tell. Anyway, small detail, otherwise the system appears to be working well.

[Greshman]

So here are the 3 pieces hardware I purchased from BRS in order to setup my RODI:

 

1. 1/4" EZ Angle Stop Adapter

2. Drain Saddle Clamp - 1/4" Push Connect

3. 1/4" x 1/4" Inline Ball Valve Push Connect

 

Notice everything is 1/4".

 

 

This is the 1/4" EZ Angle Stop Adapter which was an easy install. I simply shut off the water supply, unscrewed the flexible line plumbing with a wrench and screwed in the adapter. Very easy.

 

 

This is a picture of the drain saddle clamp. I found it easier to install this by first removing the P-trap as you can see. A small hole needs to be drilled into the P-trap to run the 1/4" yellow waste line into. I used a Dremmel with a small drill bit to do this. The key is not to make the hole too big. Note: if the collar is too large around to fit snuggly around the P-trap, you can place some small washers behind the each nut to get a tighter fit.

 

 

Here is a picture of the yellow waste line inserted into the P-Trap.

[Greshman]

Next, I wanted to discuss my decision to go with BRS Pukani dry rock and go through some of the steps I've taken to get the rock ready for the display tank.

 

First, the main reason I chose dry rock was I wanted to have maximum control over the aquascape. After doing some research, I realized you could really do a lot of creative things with this rock including modifying the rock itself with hacksaws, hammer & chissles, etc. Again the guys at BRS have some good youtube's you can check out on this subject. Secondly, it's cheaper and third it's environmentally conscientious. Now for the downside: THIS ROCK IS NOT READY FOR A DISPLAY TANK! I want to make this clear because I've seen a lot of back and forth on this subject. To my understanding this rock comes from old reef structures that have now dried up (please correct me if I'm wrong here). As a result, there are a lot of dead organics in the rock. Unattended these will leech phosphate into your tank for months leading to uncontrollable green hair algae spikes.

 

There are different methods to curing the rock. The simplest is to set in in a rubbermaid tub with some flow and allow the organics to fully decompose off the rock. I believe this would probably take a minimum of 4 weeks. A more aggressive step would be to use lanthanum chloride (LC) to extract the phosphate from the rock. This is the step I've taken using a product called "SeaKlear" Phosphate remover.

 

 

Here are my rocks curing in a 20g rubbermaid tub. I've got two power-heads and a heater working away in the tub.

 

 

Here is my Hanna 736 URL phosphate checker. My first reading scored 200 ppb which breaks the top limit of the scale. I've only had the rocks in the tub for a couple of days but I've already started my LC dosing regiment.

 

 

This is the product I'm using to dose LC. I've been doing straight to the tub in 1/2 teaspoon increments. My first dose brought the reading down to 167pbb (.512ppm) and the second dose brought it further down to 42ppb (.129ppm). I will be doing a 50% water change tomorrow and then I'm going to let it go for 3 days and recheck the phosphate level.

 

Note: The most aggressive method is to preform a muriatic acid bath on the rocks which burns out the outer layer of the rock. I'm new living in an apartment in Denver, so I don't really have the necessary outdoor venue for performing this. You have to have a location where you can dump you waste. To my knowledge fully neutralized acid (done by adding backing soda) shouldn't be harmful to the environment; however, I figured I might have a hard time explaining that should I get caught dumping this stuff down a grate somewhere, so I decided to pass on this option. I would recommend those who live in single family homes to look into this method because it speeds up the process considerably.

[Greshman]

Just took another phosphate test and got 0.27ppm. After did another 2.4ml dose of LC. Looks like the phosphates are coming down. Will check again on Sat.

[SchnauzerFace]

third it's environmentally conscientious. [...] To my understanding this rock comes from old reef structures that have now dried up (please correct me if I'm wrong here).

 

 

 

Following this thread! Your plumbing tips were excellent and clear -- thank you!

 

It is my understanding that the pukani rock is just lifted out of the ocean, left to dry and then sold. I believe their reef savers rock is the environmentally friendly choice from long-since dead reef structures.

 

But I could be wrong about that. I love the pukani, but I almost went with RS because I felt like it was more eco-friendly. Perhaps I'm wrong?

[Greshman]

 

Following this thread! Your plumbing tips were excellent and clear -- thank you!

 

It is my understanding that the pukani rock is just lifted out of the ocean, left to dry and then sold. I believe their reef savers rock is the environmentally friendly choice from long-since dead reef structures.

 

But I could be wrong about that. I love the pukani, but I almost went with RS because I felt like it was more eco-friendly. Perhaps I'm wrong?

My pleasure. Glad they're helpful. You might be right about the rock. I thought I read somewhere that the RS rock doesn't come from the ocean therefore it's the most eco-friendly as you suggested. I also heard someone say the Pukani is mined from dried out sea beds and was formally live reef rock, hence the dead organics. I'm not positive though...

[Greshman]

Did another PO3 reading this evening and got 0.15ppm. Plan on doing a water change and another LC dose tomorrow. Need the PO3<0.03ppm before I add the rock to the tank...

[mcb6715]

I am doing a very similar build only without the fuge. the other day I ordered Steve's LEDS 14,000k JMB special. I am curious on your thoughts of the light and also what you think of drilling the 2 inch holes on the hood of the biocube. What did or are you going to do about the holes for the ventilation. I am unsure of how I want to proceed.

 

Mike

[mcb6715]

Thanks man. I was thinking pretty much the same thing as you, drilling the hole on the fan side and shaving down the baffles on the vent side. I would love it if shaving the baffles on both sides would work. I missed the part about drilling the holes in my research. From what I've found the lighting when complete is 2nd to none. I could live with the hole if I have to. It will be another 2 months before I start assembly, the tank is a birthday present for my daughters so I have to wait until then. I am looking forward to see how yours turns out. I wish you the best and hope it turns out great.

[mcb6715]

How is your tank doing? Can you give any update?