Greshman Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 So, I've been reading some threads on here that mention using LC and giving the rock acid baths in order to speed up the cure time. I guess my question is whether people generally still think this is the best overall way to go. Q2: Can I cure the dry rock right in my new display tank? I assume I would do a 100% water change after the curing process, right? Link to comment
Ahanix Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 What kind of dry rock? If it's BRS/ReefCleaners/Marco.etc Dry rock, don't worry about curing it. Otherwise I'll let others fill in for good curing processes. Link to comment
Greshman Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 What kind of dry rock? If it's BRS/ReefCleaners/Marco.etc Dry rock, don't worry about curing it. Otherwise I'll let others fill in for good curing processes. Actually it's BRS pukani rock. Are you sure I shouldn't be curing it? Won't it leach phosphates? Link to comment
Ahanix Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 It might leach a little bit, but not enough to be worried about... BRS already cures all of their rock (reason it is so white) there may be a little bit of phosphates in it, so you could cycle the rock for a while before you set it up, or just put some phosguard in your tank when you set it up. Link to comment
Greshman Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 It might leach a little bit, but not enough to be worried about... BRS already cures all of their rock (reason it is so white) there may be a little bit of phosphates in it, so you could cycle the rock for a while before you set it up, or just put some phosguard in your tank when you set it up. I've got to admit I'm confused. On their website they run a video stating that the rock should be cured for 1-2 months. Link to comment
Bingo1213 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I used BRS dry rock and just threw it in when I upgraded tanks. Since it was an upgrade, I stocked it with fish and corals right away with no problems at all. Don't worry about curing! They have great stuff! Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 It might leach a little bit, but not enough to be worried about... BRS already cures all of their rock (reason it is so white) there may be a little bit of phosphates in it, so you could cycle the rock for a while before you set it up, or just put some phosguard in your tank when you set it up. I used BRS dry rock and just threw it in when I upgraded tanks. Since it was an upgrade, I stocked it with fish and corals right away with no problems at all. Don't worry about curing! They have great stuff! Ok thanks. Sounds like this might be simpler than I thought...Can't wait for my Pukani to show up! Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Ok thanks. Sounds like this might be simpler than I thought...Can't wait for my Pukani to show up! Your advice was not good on this matter. I decided to play it safe and put the rock in a plastic tub and tested for phosphate. I used a Hanna 736 ULR and the initial reading broke the 200 ppb (.613 ppm) max reading. Since then, I've been dosing SeaKlear and doing water changes to extract the phosphate. I won't put the rock in the tank until I get it to stabilize <.03 ppm. In the meantime, I'm going to seed the rocks with some Zeobak to start a bacteria colony on the rock which will hopefully minimize cycle time. Link to comment
Fluffeh Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 get Dr. Tim's one and only - awesome stuff! My rock was all ready to go within days! Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 get Dr. Tim's one and only - awesome stuff! My rock was all ready to go within days! Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I already ordered the other stuff. I'm hoping it'll do the trick... Link to comment
SchnauzerFace Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Pukani rock is notorious for needing a lot of extra prep. Many recommend a quick bath in muriatic acid followed by a few weeks of curing in a tub. There are several videos on YouTube about who to do this. I don't know that Zeobak is going to be enough. If you watch the videos on YT, you'll see how much disgusting brown foam comes off the rock. I suggest zapping it all with some powerful stuff and then curing after that. Link to comment
Houdini Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 You don't have to do acid or any of that stuff. The rock may leach phosphates but levels should be very low low. I would just cycle tank without livestock. Before the cycle I would be inclined to take a PO level and then take a PO reading a few days later. You have to do before starting cycle because cycle will generate phosphates. That way you will have some indication in unlikely event there is an issue. I did this with Reef Cleaners rock. There was a slight increase in PO but I considered insignificant. You will see phosphates jump during cycle but you will know it's not the rock. Generally folks don't test for phosphates during cycle because focus is on nitrogen. But doing this will give you piece. Of mind that rock is not an issue. Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Pukani rock is notorious for needing a lot of extra prep. Many recommend a quick bath in muriatic acid followed by a few weeks of curing in a tub. There are several videos on YouTube about who to do this. I don't know that Zeobak is going to be enough. If you watch the videos on YT, you'll see how much disgusting brown foam comes off the rock. I suggest zapping it all with some powerful stuff and then curing after that. Great video. Thanks for posting it. I live in an apartment in Denver so I'm not exactly sure where I could do the acid bath. I'd probably get jumped by some tree hugging hippies if I tried to dump that "calcium" out...lol. Still I'm temped to do the MA bath.... Link to comment
SchnauzerFace Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Great video. Thanks for posting it. I live in an apartment in Denver so I'm not exactly sure where I could do the acid bath. I'd probably get jumped by some tree hugging hippies if I tried to dump that "calcium" out...lol. Still I'm temped to do the MA bath.... LOL that's a good point. There might be some chemists/experienced reefers in here who could tell you for sure, but I believe the acid reacts with the calcium carbonate of the rock, which effectively neutralizes the acid. When the fizzing stops, I believe that's a sign that the acid is no longer reacting. I don't necessarily know that it would be safe to put it in a bird bath, but I believe the solution is going to be relatively harmless after that. I can't remember if it was this video or another one (I've watched a few of these to prepare for my pukani shipment!), but one of the guys said it "stained" his concrete. I think it actually just cleaned his concrete, but that potion of his driveway looked different after it came in contact with the acid (prior to being neutralized). So you may want to be careful about the overflow/foam, but I think you could probably get away with doing it in an apartment complex somewhere. And if anyone gives you crap about it, just threaten to pour acid on them. Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 LOL that's a good point. There might be some chemists/experienced reefers in here who could tell you for sure, but I believe the acid reacts with the calcium carbonate of the rock, which effectively neutralizes the acid. When the fizzing stops, I believe that's a sign that the acid is no longer reacting. I don't necessarily know that it would be safe to put it in a bird bath, but I believe the solution is going to be relatively harmless after that. I can't remember if it was this video or another one (I've watched a few of these to prepare for my pukani shipment!), but one of the guys said it "stained" his concrete. I think it actually just cleaned his concrete, but that potion of his driveway looked different after it came in contact with the acid (prior to being neutralized). So you may want to be careful about the overflow/foam, but I think you could probably get away with doing it in an apartment complex somewhere. And if anyone gives you crap about it, just threaten to pour acid on them. So you think I could pull it off inside, eh? Ok I'm going to try it tonight then. I'm doing 25lbs of BRS Pukani in a 20g tub. And I'll put some cheap towels around it. One thing I didn't catch was how long they kept the rock in the acid bath. I'm going to take a 2nd look now to see if just missed it. Link to comment
SchnauzerFace Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 So you think I could pull it off inside, eh? Ok I'm going to try it tonight then. I'm doing 25lbs of BRS Pukani in a 20g tub. And I'll put some cheap towels around it. One thing I didn't catch was how long they kept the rock in the acid bath. I'm going to take a 2nd look now to see if just missed it. I would definitely suggest not doing indoors! When I said "you could get away with doing it in an apartment complex somewhere" I meant like behind one of the rarely used dumpsters or even on your patio if you have one. MA has harmful vapors so it's best to do it somewhere with plenty of ventilation. Also, be sure to wear gloves, eye protection and I'd even go with a respirator, too. And this part I DO remember from chemistry -- always, always, always put the water in first and THEN add the acid! As far as how long to put it in the bath, I think the acid is only effective until the foaming stops, which I believe takes less than 10 minutes. Hope this helps! Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 I would definitely suggest not doing indoors! When I said "you could get away with doing it in an apartment complex somewhere" I meant like behind one of the rarely used dumpsters or even on your patio if you have one. MA has harmful vapors so it's best to do it somewhere with plenty of ventilation. Also, be sure to wear gloves, eye protection and I'd even go with a respirator, too. And this part I DO remember from chemistry -- always, always, always put the water in first and THEN add the acid! As far as how long to put it in the bath, I think the acid is only effective until the foaming stops, which I believe takes less than 10 minutes. Hope this helps! lol...thanks for clarifying. I will hold off on that trip to Home Depot tonight! Link to comment
Greshman Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 You don't have to do acid or any of that stuff. The rock may leach phosphates but levels should be very low low. I would just cycle tank without livestock. Before the cycle I would be inclined to take a PO level and then take a PO reading a few days later. You have to do before starting cycle because cycle will generate phosphates. That way you will have some indication in unlikely event there is an issue. I did this with Reef Cleaners rock. There was a slight increase in PO but I considered insignificant. You will see phosphates jump during cycle but you will know it's not the rock. Generally folks don't test for phosphates during cycle because focus is on nitrogen. But doing this will give you piece. Of mind that rock is not an issue. Yeah, I not sure if I'm going to do the acid bath. I'm new in town and I really don't have anywhere I know I could pull this off outside. I think I'm going to stick to the SeaKlear LC dosing regiment and see how that goes for a couple of weeks. Link to comment
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