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how to avoid disco effect?


yoav

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hey guys,

 

while researching on DIY led projects I found out that there's a thing people like to call "disco effect". you know what I'm talking about. is there any way to avoid it?

 

thanks

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True disco lighting during the 70s always included a large mirrored ball, hung from the ceiling. White spot lights were almost always the light used on these disco balls.

 

So I don't use that term. Most people here or getting into reefing are not old enough to have actually been to a disco, so they don't know that bit of trivia.

 

Many here are not old enough, yet, to venture into venues which do not have a disco ball, usually. Yet still have the horrible ugly blue, red, green, etc moving spot lights. And those venues which still retain the mirrored disco ball, rarely use it; probably up there from the 70s.

 

I try to use the most accurate term to describe things, "disco" is less accurate than the term I use.

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True disco lighting during the 70s always included a large mirrored ball, hung from the ceiling. White spot lights were almost always the light used on these disco balls.

 

So I don't use that term. Most people here or getting into reefing are not old enough to have actually been to a disco, so they don't know that bit of trivia.

 

Many here are not old enough, yet, to venture into venues which do not have a disco ball, usually. Yet still have the horrible ugly blue, red, green, etc moving spot lights. And those venues which still retain the mirrored disco ball, rarely use it; probably up there from the 70s.

 

I try to use the most accurate term to describe things, "disco" is less accurate than the term I use.

 

 

Truly there has never been a better handle (handle was your name on the CB [Citizen's Band] radio prevalent around the same time as disco) for someone.

 

What is your Fark username?

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True disco lighting during the 70s always included a large mirrored ball, hung from the ceiling. White spot lights were almost always the light used on these disco balls.

 

So I don't use that term. Most people here or getting into reefing are not old enough to have actually been to a disco, so they don't know that bit of trivia.

 

Many here are not old enough, yet, to venture into venues which do not have a disco ball, usually. Yet still have the horrible ugly blue, red, green, etc moving spot lights. And those venues which still retain the mirrored disco ball, rarely use it; probably up there from the 70s.

 

I try to use the most accurate term to describe things, "disco" is less accurate than the term I use.

Way to go farkwar. Once again, you spew useless rhetoric about the most pointless things without giving a simple answer.

 

hey guys,

 

while researching on DIY led projects I found out that there's a thing people like to call "disco effect". you know what I'm talking about. is there any way to avoid it?

 

thanks

The reason you see the "disco effect", or color shadowing (depending on who's going to be an ass about the term) is because of the spacing of the different colors of LEDs. The closer you can get them, the less noticeable it will be. Some companies offer "anti-disco" stars that mount multiple LEDs on a single board to put the LEDs close together. Some are still bothered by the effect even with the LEDs mounted close together. The next option is to add diffuser material to blend the light even more. This does reduce some of the shimmer you get from point source lighting, but unless you use a heavy diffuser, you will still get some shimmer.

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As Evilc66 has said, tight grouping of LEDs or a diffuser are best options.

This is one of my 3 arrays,

 

WP_20141029_005_zps44fbc3f0.jpg

 

I managed to get hold of 12mm stars for my RB and NW allowing me to put them real close, almost the same spacing as the 3 up stars from LEDgroup buy. I'm in the UK so I couldn't get 3 ups with out it costing me an arm and a leg.

All 3 arrays are identical and I get no colour banding or 'disco' shadows (that I can see). I get a lovely shimmer too which I really like.

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What a jerk response that was. Is that the right term? I can think of a few more but I'll probably get booted.

 

Anyway.

 

I just put a radion 30 on my biocube and I get a pretty noticeable shimmer along with interesting color separation on the rocks. It's kind of weird. I was thinking about putting a diffuser on there - that's a good tip. Thanks.

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Get the frosted window sticky stuff. Someone will probably post a link to it. Think it's 'sand effect' you want. Cut it to size and stick it on the splash guard, job done.

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Way to go farkwar. Once again, you spew useless rhetoric about the most pointless things without giving a simple answer.

 

I wouldn't say pointless. Trivial is more accurate.

 

 

 

And I knew you would write the correct answer, as soon as the Sun came up.

 

Still doesn't look like disco lighting to me, it looks like the lighting you see in a strip club.

 

 

Diffusion panels:

http://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/one-sided-velvet-texture-bmwd3r5hb3r/acrylite-satinice-p95-colorless-0f00-sc-hfo73pwordl~p.html

 

http://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/two-sided-velvet-texture-cx2tw0dadf1/acrylite-satinice-dp9-colorless-0f00-dc-nq1trtv8pp0~p.html

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First led build I ever did was all wrong, wrong LEDs, wrong spacing, looked like Saturday night live. With a few layers of that Reynolds cling wrap and a light diffuser top it looked okay. I'd definitely say group the LEDs together as you possibly can and buy multi chip LEDs if possible. I'd also suggest not using optics, most of the time optics shouldn't be needed, unless you have a really deep tank. I'd highly recommend using a multi led puck of some sort.

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evilc66 and Benny314 and everyone else, thanks.

i'll put them real close, as you guys said.

 

thinking about building 2 units and hang them above a 24"x16" shallow tank.

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They run on a wonky voltage. A typical 24v power supply is too small. A 48v is too large.

 

Doesn't matter. Most buck drivers are at least 85% efficient with a moderate delta between input and output voltage. Even on a 48v supply, an LDD-H is 77% efficient running a single LED at 700mA.

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Doesn't matter. Most buck drivers are at least 85% efficient with a moderate delta between input and output voltage. Even on a 48v supply, an LDD-H is 77% efficient running a single LED at 700mA.

How do these buck drivers work? Are they a current-controlled buck where you dial in 700mA and the output is bucked down to 700mA and voltage falls where it needs to fall based on the LED's IV curve? Or do you dial in a voltage and the buck just cuts it down from the source?

 

I assume either way would be achieved through PWM, no? It would have to be to keep those efficiencies up.

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PWM is involved. The chip tries to keep the current across an inductor constant by pwm'ing the incoming voltage. As the load changes (more or less LEDs), the output voltage changes (due to the duty cycle changes) as the current is kept constant.

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PWM is involved. The chip tries to keep the current across an inductor constant by pwm'ing the incoming voltage. As the load changes (more or less LEDs), the output voltage changes (due to the duty cycle changes) as the current is kept constant.

Thanks!

I had never considered running a single LED at 48v.

 

I'm going to test that out.

 

Thank you.

I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not, but Evil's answer is legit.

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I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not, but Evil's answer is legit.

Not sarcasm.

 

I read the datasheet, the 77% is right there in it, with one LED at 48v, just as he said.

 

It never crossed my mind because I assumed it would pop. And, there's the, why would you want run one 3v LED with a 48v PS?

 

I have 48v power supplies, extra LDD-H's, and LEDs. I'm going to test it.

 

 

I bought a 30v HLG, that's adjustable, to maximize available amperage on my Radion puck build. The most voltage hungry channel is like 26 or 28 volts. I wanted only 1 power supply for the whole thing. It's not a common DIY voltage, the power supply is not cheap(one can opt for the lesser CLG).

 

2015-02-24-17-37-14.png

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