NanoTank1 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Okay, I'm looking for something that I don't think exists. Anyone know of an external low flow or adjustable flow inline water pump that accepts 1/2" inner dimension tubing? Thanks!! Link to comment
Chadf Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Would a sicce syncra .5 work? Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 That's close and a good call. The one thing I have against it is that the input and the output are at a 90 degree angle to each other. It makes the tube routing a bit awkward. I'd prefer a straight line. I saw the Cobalt Aquatics E-X-T Inline Pump... but it's 5/8" and a bit too strong in GPH. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Then just reduce it to 1/2" and put a ball/gate valve on it to reduce flow. It's only 200gph as is. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Then just reduce it to 1/2" and put a ball/gate valve on it to reduce flow. It's only 200gph as is. Thanks. How much can a ball/gate valve reduce flow though? This is for a crazy idea I have for a coldwater pico tank. The tank itself would only be 1 gallon or so!! So we're talking about aquarium to inline filter to small chiller and back. I might have the acrylic tank drilled (with plumbing attached) to feed the tubing directly out of the tank and for the route back. The goal is to seal the tank as much as possible to keep it cold and to promote a clean look inside of it. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 It can slow it down as much as you like to the point of shutting off flow completely. Just make sure to put the valve on the output of the pump so you don't starve it and make it cavitate (that's bad). Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 It can slow it down as much as you like to the point of shutting off flow completely. Just make sure to put the valve on the output of the pump so you don't starve it and make it cavitate (that's bad). Thanks. That's good to know. The Cobalt Aquatics E-X-T Inline Pump has barbs on both ends. Is there any way to go from a barb fitting to pvc pipe? Or would I be better off sticking with barbs and vinyl tubing throughout? I'm a rookie when it comes to all things plumbing. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 You would have to go: Pump -> vinyl hose -> barb w/ male pipe thread -> female pipe thread to slip adapter -> PVC pipe Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Thanks evilc66 for your past response. Anyone have thoughts about using the below pump in an external closed loop? BlueLine 10 HD External Water Pump http://www.aquacave.com/blueline-10-hd-external-water-pump-by-pan-world.html Or perhaps: The Mag Drive Model 2 http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=20404&cmpid=03csegpl&ref=6111&subref=AA&CAWELAID=525426527&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=530005150000135611&cadevice=c Basically I'm looking to create a closed loop:-) Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 If you are talking about a 1 gallon cold water pico reef then either of those pumps is way too big and will add a lot of heat to a 1 gallon system. Look at the watts they consume versus the GPH they pump, this equates to heat gain. You need a tiny pump such as a MaxiJet 400 or Hydor Seltz L20 which can be run internally or externally and draw about 1/4 the wattage with similar GPH and if it is a closed loop the lower head they will pump against is not an issue. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 If you are talking about a 1 gallon cold water pico reef then either of those pumps is way too big and will add a lot of heat to a 1 gallon system. Look at the watts they consume versus the GPH they pump, this equates to heat gain. You need a tiny pump such as a MaxiJet 400 or Hydor Seltz L20 which can be run internally or externally and draw about 1/4 the wattage with similar GPH and if it is a closed loop the lower head they will pump against is not an issue. I'm glad I asked. I wasn't even paying attention to the wattage (and the implications on heat gain)! Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Any thoughts on where to place the two bulkheads on the tank? To simplify plumbing I'm thinking both bulkheads on one side of the tank. The acrylic is 3/4" so I'm not worried about compromising things structurally. But what would you suggest for position on the one side? One high, one low? Spread out or close together? Not sure if there are implications for a tank this small (about 7.5" squared or 6" square of actual volume given the thick acrylic). Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Bulkheads are going to look huge no matter where you place them. I think I would find some 3/8" or 1/2" bulkheads or tank adapters to lessen the visual impact them maybe stick them both on one side or the back and try to hide or disguise them with some rock or something. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 If the tank is 3/4" acrylic I think you could drill and just tap the acrylic and screw fittings right into the tank. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 I'm thinking 1/2" bulkheads 4" up on the tank. This way if the close system leaks I'll only lose half of my 1 gallon of liquid:-) It should keep the piping fairly inconspicuous too. If the tank is 3/4" acrylic I think you could drill and just tap the acrylic and screw fittings right into the tank. Not sure if I get this point. Can you explain how that would work? Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Drill then use a pipe thread tap and put threads in the 3/4" thick acrylic like you would a piece of steel then screw a plastic MIP x john guest speed fitting in it and use something like 3/8" or 1/2" poly tubing. You wouldn't hardly see the tapped hole from the inside and it would give it a very clean look. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Granted it may not be the best idea. But you screw fittings into bulkheads right. Look up an acrylic tap kit for the size you want, granted I don't honestly know if it would work on a tank. Just an option to skip having a bulkhead possibly. Essentially you would carve threads into the acrylic. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Granted it may not be the best idea. But you screw fittings into bulkheads right. Look up an acrylic tap kit for the size you want, granted I don't honestly know if it would work on a tank. Just an option to skip having a bulkhead possibly. Essentially you would carve threads into the acrylic. Cool. Thanks for explaining. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I haven't seen it done on a tank, but in computer water cooling often it's used. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 I'm still confused where to place my bulkheads though for the outflow and return. On one side of my tank, if you take the 3/4" thick acrylic into consideration I'm left with a 6"x 6" display area, which is obviously quite small. Should I keep the bulkheads at the same height? Does it make sense to place the bulkheads a bit lower in the tank (perhaps halfway up) to help conceal the piping? Any other practical considerations? Thanks! Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Alright, I'm posting again (which probably means I should concentrate more on work). Anyone ever hear of a bottom-drilled pico tank? And what would/ could that look like? If I'm going to have fun with this new coldwater pico tank I might as well have a lot of fun with it. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I've done this. If it's a closed loop system that you would be connecting to the tank, then you will be fine. You may have to add a little standoff above the bulkhead to prevent sand from falling in though. If it's open loop (like if you have a remote sump, then there are problems. When the pump shuts off, your tank will drain down to the highest point of the drain connection to the tank. If that's flush with the bottom of the tank then, well, you get the idea. Some will suggest check valves as a way around this, but they aren't the most reliable devices around. Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Awesome. I have to try it. What I need is a closed loop, so it sounds like it will work. Does anyone have a picture of how this would work inside the tank? I've done this. If it's a closed loop system that you would be connecting to the tank, then you will be fine. You may have to add a little standoff above the bulkhead to prevent sand from falling in though. If it's open loop (like if you have a remote sump, then there are problems. When the pump shuts off, your tank will drain down to the highest point of the drain connection to the tank. If that's flush with the bottom of the tank then, well, you get the idea. Some will suggest check valves as a way around this, but they aren't the most reliable devices around. Link to comment
AquaticEngineer Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 What are you chilling it with? Link to comment
NanoTank1 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 What are you chilling it with? That is a great question. I do have a Chill Solutions CSXC-1 chiller sitting around. Here's the thing... during the summer I only run the air conditioner when I'm home from work. Mid-summer, especially midday, my living room can get quite hot. Even with the small water volume (~1 gallon) I need the chiller to lower the water temp quite a bit. Worst case scenario, we are talking about lowering the water temp from 95 degrees to as low as 55 degrees and keeping it there. The good news is that the aquarium will be 100% sealed outside of the bottom bulkheads with 3/4" acrylic. Any suggestions on what might work? Link to comment
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