New Stand Design - Updated with pictures!

[VW_TDI_02]

So I have a new design for my reef tank. I currently have it just sitting on a table and I have the sump underneath running an Eshopps Overflow. It works well but it is pretty loud and I'm worried that I don't have any back up in the pipe clogs. Below is the stand I have designed. It's 50" long and 18" deep. It's designed to hold a 20 gallon long display tank and a 20 long sump. I have the display tank an inch from the front edge in order to leave some space on the back. My plan is to have a bean overflow in one of the back corners of the tank. I plan on drilling the back glass out and just using one of the plastic overflow boxes siliconed in. The drains will then go through holes in the top of the stand and down into the sump. Paneling wise I will end up using 3/4" plywood but I'm thinking about mounting it using magnets instead of screws. This will allow it to easily come off whenever I need it. I will have two doors on the front plywood though. So what do you guys think?

 

Fish Tank Stand by vazquez_v1, on Flickr

[Smithjm5]

It sounds like a solid plan to me! I'd just say make sure you have plenty of height to work in the sump. I know when I built my stand for my 65 with 20L sump I had just enough room but wish I had more height than I did for ease of getting the skimmer cup and other equipment in and out. And when you're planning the height take into account the height of the 2x4's (I assume that's what you'll use) too!

[Mojado]

Wood has a huge amount of compression force capability. Three 2x4's per corner is two too many.

 

http://classes.mst.edu/civeng217/project/003/timber1.gif

[najluni15]

I know some forums (wonder which one) will kill you for posting other forum info on their website but NR does not and is why I am always here but here is a good template that I used to make my stand I am currently working on

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110

[Mojado]

Here's my frame.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/328648-mojados-40-breeder-build-now-wfts/?p=4402702

[NorthGaHillbilly]

Wood has a huge amount of compression force capability. Three 2x4's per corner is two too many.

 

http://classes.mst.edu/civeng217/project/003/timber1.gif

 

 

I cant agree more, were holding up water, not lead

 

IMG_00000366 by North Ga Hillbilly, on Flickr

[VW_TDI_02]

Wood has a huge amount of compression force capability. Three 2x4's per corner is two too many.

 

http://classes.mst.edu/civeng217/project/003/timber1.gif

So just a little overkill... haha.

 

I know some forums (wonder which one) will kill you for posting other forum info on their website but NR does not and is why I am always here but here is a good template that I used to make my stand I am currently working on

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110

 

That's where I got the idea for this style of stand.

Here's my frame.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/328648-mojados-40-breeder-build-now-wfts/?p=4402702

That looks great and if it can hold up a 40 breeder then a 20 gallon should be no problem. Really like the paneling and how it turned out.

 

 

 

I cant agree more, were holding up water, not lead

 

IMG_00000366 by North Ga Hillbilly, on Flickr

Another great stand. I actually have changed the design a bit and even now the design I currently have still needs some tweaking and I may pull some elements from these builds. The image below is showing the back of the tank so you can see the holes for the overflow and the return. I think I'm going to make the stand a bit bigger from front to back in order to give me a bit more space. The way I have it now, it gives me 4" from the back edge to the edge of the tank. The tubing then goes down into the sump. The stand you see between the sump and the tank is where the ATO reservoir will go and this is another place making the tank deeper would help. With the current design, I have about 2" to route the PVC from the return to the tank since the return pump would be under the reservoir. The other side is where the skimmer would go so at least there I have plenty of room for the cup and other maintenance. In regards to the corners, I should be able to get rid of one of the 2x4s from each corner. I would keep the ones on the sides of the tank since they are directly below and on top of the joints. The 2x4 in the middle isn't really going to have much weight on it and is more of a board to keep everything lined up. The weight would be directly on the 2x4s that are between the joints. For the outside I'm still undecided but I think it will be similar to what Mojado did with his tank. I do plan on putting some doors on it and will probably be in the style found in the following link. Unfortunately I do have a good bit of work to do tonight so I may not be able to update the design tonight. Thanks everyone for the advice though. Definitely going to factor it into this build.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/354759-ssws-20-gallon-long-rimless-sps-reef/

[Mojado]

If you go with one 2x4 per corner, ensure that the 2x4 leg is supporting both 2x4s of the box above. That way you don't put the weight on the screws holding your top box together.

[VW_TDI_02]

If you go with one 2x4 per corner, ensure that the 2x4 leg is supporting both 2x4s of the box above. That way you don't put the weight on the screws holding your top box together.

That was the plan. Those are the ones that I was referring to when I meant the ones on the sides. The 2x4s on the front and back are the ones that I'll be pulling off. The 2x4s on the inside of the boxes won't be holding weight but they will be holding everything in place. The 2x4s that support the weight will be hammered in between the two boxes in order to ensure a snug fit. They will then be nailed/screwed into the inside 2x4s. Not sure if I'm explaining myself very well though.

[VW_TDI_02]

Well, I had a bit of spare time today and redid my design. I'm down to just one 2x4 in each corner between each of the boxes. I also made it a bit bigger in order to free up space. It's now 20" from front to back but I kept the same 50" from left to right. It's also 40.75" tall. On the bottom you can see the sump and next to the sump is the reservoir for the ATO. The small stand on the inside has a hole in it for the return pump.

[VW_TDI_02]

Wow, now that I think about it, I don't really know why I have that stand there. Originally I was planning on having the ATO reservoir there but then I moved it to the side so that stand really isn't necessary. I do need a place that is easily accessible for my dual reactors but I think I may have those up against one of the sides. Will also need a place to mount the electronics (light controller, Jebao RW-4 Controller, and RKL).

 

While I know that this stand can easily hold the weight, I'm a bit worried about it being wobbly. I know I can use other forms of bracing on the joints but for some reason I really like the rugged look that these brackets give off.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-18-Gauge-ZMAX-Galvanized-2X-Rigid-Tie-Connector-RTC2Z/204834336?MERCH=RV-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-204834336-_-N

 

Probably won't use them but I've been looking online at different types of brackets that I could use in order to stabilize this stand. As of now my main concern is simply making the stand itself and then the trim and shelves will be secondary but I do want t have the plan all set. I think I'm going to make the stand starting this Friday or so when spring break starts. Going to need to rent a circular saw and saw horse/work bench. Will have to look around Home Depot/Lowes and see what I can find. I already have the basic drills and clamps but no real place to work since I'm still in an apt. Looks like I'll be putting some plastic bags down or something.

[Sancho]

Great plans! My question is what is that tiny box on top of the stand?

[VW_TDI_02]

The "tiny" box on top is the aquarium. haha. It's a 20 long.

[Sancho]

I tried to buy a TDI last week. The dealer told me there were no manufacturer incentives for him to sell me a TDI. So I Bought a 2015 1.8T I love it but still wish it was a TDI. Back to your stand/tank. Go bigger with the tank. thats a whole lotta stand and sump for a small tank.

[VW_TDI_02]

I tried to buy a TDI last week. The dealer told me there were no manufacturer incentives for him to sell me a TDI. So I Bought a 2015 1.8T I love it but still wish it was a TDI. Back to your stand/tank. Go bigger with the tank. thats a whole lotta stand and sump for a small tank.

I had to get rid of the TDI a while ago unfortunately. It was a great car while it lasted and it's back up and running now. Made the mistake of not changing the timing belt and so the whole engine needed to be rebuilt. A year later, something wasn't right with the original rebuild and it all needed to be done over. Now it's back up and running and my Dad drives it. I'm now driving a Corolla S but I definitely miss the VW. In regards to the tank, I would love to get a 40 breeder or something along those lines but I can't afford to light a tank that big. Even now I just have a Current Orbit Marine and that only works for softies and some LPS towards the top but nothing else. Eventually I would like to upgrade the tank but as of now I just can't afford the lights.

[ndrobey]

Rebuilt engines never are any good. This one won't last long, either. Unless you rebuild it yourself and know what you are doing.

I agree the tank should be bigger. You can still light part of the tank with what you have, and have softies and LPS in the center top of the tank. Otherwise, you are going to have to buy and set up a whole new tank when you upgrade the lights.

[WibblyPig]

Just my opinion, but you're letting the equipment drive the design and it's taking away from the overall look. It's a 20 gallon tank - a 5 gallon water change a week will do WAY more for the tank than all that equipment.

 

A few observations on your latest stand design:

 

There will be next to no strength putting 2xs into end grain.

 

Don't use screws unless they're rated for shear strength - use nails (both of which will end up splitting that end grain unless you pre-drill).

 

The magnets to hold the panels sound like a good idea but won't work for the current design. You're going to need the plywood attached to the back and sides to prevent racking. You can cut a slot for pipes, cords, etc in the back panel but you're going to need that strength.

 

Just bag the 2x4 sides and make the whole thing out of plywood. you can use a 2x platform for the top and bottom to give you a nailing/glue cleat but be sure your plywood top overhangs past the plywood.

 

I would use molding to cover the top and side plywood edges. Edge banding will probably fail after a few wettings. Glue and screw/nail everything from the inside so there are no holes to fill unless you plan on painting. DON'T use MDF on anything.

[smiz]

Take a look at my stand design in sig. I think having some shelve space and an electronics section is a huge plus and worth the extra effort. Maybe you should consider bumping up to a 40g display? Can get one from petco for only 40 bucks.... Then you can keep 20g sump and have a lot more footprint to play with in stand design.

[VW_TDI_02]

Just my opinion, but you're letting the equipment drive the design and it's taking away from the overall look. It's a 20 gallon tank - a 5 gallon water change a week will do WAY more for the tank than all that equipment.

 

A few observations on your latest stand design:

 

There will be next to no strength putting 2xs into end grain.

 

Don't use screws unless they're rated for shear strength - use nails (both of which will end up splitting that end grain unless you pre-drill).

 

The magnets to hold the panels sound like a good idea but won't work for the current design. You're going to need the plywood attached to the back and sides to prevent racking. You can cut a slot for pipes, cords, etc in the back panel but you're going to need that strength.

 

Just bag the 2x4 sides and make the whole thing out of plywood. you can use a 2x platform for the top and bottom to give you a nailing/glue cleat but be sure your plywood top overhangs past the plywood.

 

I would use molding to cover the top and side plywood edges. Edge banding will probably fail after a few wettings. Glue and screw/nail everything from the inside so there are no holes to fill unless you plan on painting. DON'T use MDF on anything.

Definitely don't plan on using MDF for anything. I hate that stuff. I was planning on predrilling the holes for each of the joints. Connecting the bottom boxes to the vertical 2x4s was going to be done by drilling at a 45 degree angle. There are also some metal brackets I've found that would do the trick as well. I am going to end up skinning it but I didn't add it to the drawing because I wanted the structure to be visible. I have scrapped the magnet idea and will probably use two large doors. For the top molding, I was thinking of putting a second board surrounding the tank giving it recessed look and that would be a finished piece that would cover the edges. Would also some sort of molding along the edge probably nailed in with finishing nails. I'm not really sure what you mean by making the whole thing out of plywood. In regards to the equipment, that's one of my favorite parts. Lol.

[WibblyPig]

Think of a kitchen cabinet - all plywood and some 1x2s for a face frame:

 

 

 

 

No need to build the base/toekick - just make a plywood box, put a top on it and you're good to go. If you're renting a circular saw, you can use it to make dados on the sides for the backing. Cut it down to 48" and you could do it all with 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood, 1/2 sheet of 1/2" ply and a couple of pieces of molding. If you want to be fancy, you could order doors online to match whatever wood you use otherwise, make full overlays with 1x2s and 1/4" plywood.

[VW_TDI_02]

Think of a kitchen cabinet - all plywood and some 1x2s for a face frame:

 

 

 

 

No need to build the base/toekick - just make a plywood box, put a top on it and you're good to go. If you're renting a circular saw, you can use it to make dados on the sides for the backing. Cut it down to 48" and you could do it all with 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood, 1/2 sheet of 1/2" ply and a couple of pieces of molding. If you want to be fancy, you could order doors online to match whatever wood you use otherwise, make full overlays with 1x2s and 1/4" plywood.

Would that still be able to support a larger tank such as a 40 breeder? Would it also need additional bracing across the top? Like the piece labeled "countertop support" but in the middle.

[WibblyPig]

No need for additional bracing as all of the weight is taken by the edges - and that's a 24" deep cabinet. A 40 breeder is 18x36? You could actually just go to the store and buy a 36" base cabinet, put a top on it and you'll be good to go (if you get an island counter that's finished on 3 sides - otherwise you'll need to finish the sides or put it in the corner and only finish 1 side!) You would still have 6" in the back to drill for return, drain, cords, etc.

[VW_TDI_02]

No need for additional bracing as all of the weight is taken by the edges - and that's a 24" deep cabinet. A 40 breeder is 18x36? You could actually just go to the store and buy a 36" base cabinet, put a top on it and you'll be good to go (if you get an island counter that's finished on 3 sides - otherwise you'll need to finish the sides or put it in the corner and only finish 1 side!) You would still have 6" in the back to drill for return, drain, cords, etc.

Well I don't plan on getting a 40 breeder for a while. That's probably the next step for me but again, I won't be able to light a 40 breeder with my current orbit marine. Eventually I would like to pick up a pair of kessils and light a 40 breeder but for now I'm sticking to the 20 long. Since it's only 30x13, there wouldn't be any support directly underneath the tank with the exception of the top.

[WibblyPig]

Doesn't make a difference. 2 20's, stand, etc. are going to weigh about 350-400 lbs fully loaded. Now think about 10 guys standing in a row on a 3/4" plywood subfloor between the joists underneath. That's 2000 lbs in one spot with the joists 16 or 24 inches o.c.and no deflection. Your weight will be spread out across the entire top so it's not going to go anywhere.

 

My background is in Architecture and construction and I also build furniture. I've built a good number of stands both freestanding and built-in and never had any problems.

[VW_TDI_02]

Well I've been working on a design that is along the lines of how NorthGAHillbilly. I'm not finished but I figured I would get your opinion before going much further. The corners are made up of 1x4s and 1x3s. Along the bottom there are 1x2s. I'm thinking of adding some supports across the middle and just sitting the plywood on top of those in order to hold the sump/ro reservoir. For the top it would be just a nice plywood cover large enough to cover any edges. The back would also have a piece of plywood across the entire thing. Not completely sure about the sides just yet. Depending on how space works out I may have it as a shelf for food and stuff or maybe electronics. Not sure just yet. The whole thing is 48" just to make it simpler.

 

[Edit]

Added two pictures showing. One has the bottom panel hidden in order to see the supports