APLATN13 Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 I have a Vertex Aquaristik Deluxe RODI unit that my cousin let me use. I am looking for new filters and a psi guage for the unit. Any recommendation? http://www.vertexaquaristik.com/Products/WaterPurificationSystems/RODISystems/DeluxePuratek100RODI/tabid/202/language/en-US/Default.aspx TECHNICAL DATA Footprint 15" x 8" Height 18" GE-100 GPD membrane 5 µ polypropylene sediment cartridge 10 µ carbon block cartridge High capacity resin DI cartridge Vertex HP-100 booster pump All ¼"push-connect fittings Includes canister wrench and all installation adapters and fittings Thanks Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/MPDI-System-Cartridge-Replacement-Kit-High-Capacity-DI and http://spectrapure.com/PARTS-SUPPLIES/PRESSURE-GAUGES-KITS Before replacing anything though you need to know your TDS readings from the tap , from the RO only and from the finished water. It is possible you need a new RO membrane also and the TDS will tell. A good TDS meter is here http://spectrapure.com/TEST-KITS-METERS/CONDUCTIVITY-TDS-METERS/HM-Digital-TDS-4TM-Pocket-Size-TDS-Meter and the very best RO membrane in the business is here http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/RO-MEMBRANES-FLOW-RESTRICTORS/NEW-99-percent-rejection-SpectraSelect-Plus-Tested-90-GPD-RO-Membrane The Vertex systems were not very well designed and receive a ton of well deserved complaints since they eat RO membranes due to the low waste ratio. Membranes must be flushed, there is no way around it and their method of backflushing doesn't help the situation. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/FILTER-REPLACEMENT-KITS/MPDI-System-Cartridge-Replacement-Kit-High-Capacity-DI and http://spectrapure.com/PARTS-SUPPLIES/PRESSURE-GAUGES-KITS Before replacing anything though you need to know your TDS readings from the tap , from the RO only and from the finished water. It is possible you need a new RO membrane also and the TDS will tell. A good TDS meter is here http://spectrapure.com/TEST-KITS-METERS/CONDUCTIVITY-TDS-METERS/HM-Digital-TDS-4TM-Pocket-Size-TDS-Meter and the very best RO membrane in the business is here http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/RO-MEMBRANES-FLOW-RESTRICTORS/NEW-99-percent-rejection-SpectraSelect-Plus-Tested-90-GPD-RO-Membrane The Vertex systems were not very well designed and receive a ton of well deserved complaints since they eat RO membranes due to the low waste ratio. Membranes must be flushed, there is no way around it and their method of backflushing doesn't help the situation. Stuff is on order! Is there away I can modify the unit so it be more efficient? Thanks Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Yes, buy a capillay tube flow restrictor matched to your membrane size and trim it so you no longer have 1:1 waste ratio but something suited for your exact tap water conditions. If you have moderate to hard water and normal to high TDS then it should be a 4:1 ratio. If you have moderately soft water and lower than normal to normal (250) TDS then maybe 3:1 waste ratio and if you have softened water and lower than normal TDS (less than say 100) then you can get away with 2:1 waste ratio and still get decent RO membrane life. It all depends on your TDS and calcium carbonate hardness, if you don't know those you really should before doing anything RO/DI related. The other two factors that affect RO/DI performance are water pressure and water temperature. You have a booster pump so you can overcome both conditions with higher booster pump pressure. Link to comment
CJJon Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks for taking all the time to post here AZDesertRat, I learn something with every one of your posts. We are lucky you are here! Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Yes, buy a capillay tube flow restrictor matched to your membrane size and trim it so you no longer have 1:1 waste ratio but something suited for your exact tap water conditions. If you have moderate to hard water and normal to high TDS then it should be a 4:1 ratio. If you have moderately soft water and lower than normal to normal (250) TDS then maybe 3:1 waste ratio and if you have softened water and lower than normal TDS (less than say 100) then you can get away with 2:1 waste ratio and still get decent RO membrane life. It all depends on your TDS and calcium carbonate hardness, if you don't know those you really should before doing anything RO/DI related. The other two factors that affect RO/DI performance are water pressure and water temperature. You have a booster pump so you can overcome both conditions with higher booster pump pressure. That is what I have purchase so far from Spectrapure. I have found out my guage is a 1/4NPT thread and not 1/8 like I thought. So I am looking for a replacement one atm. I have also picked up another GE TFM-100 RO membrane ($20) to get me by until I figure how to do the mod and with new gauge. 1 Micron Sediment Filter Cartridge 10-inch SF-MT-1-10 1 $6.99 1 Micron Carbon Block Filter 10-inch CF-1-10 1 $10.99 $10.99 SilicaBuster™ DI Cartridge - Color-Indicating Standard 10-inch DI-SB-CI-10 1 $21.99 100 GPD Reverse Osmosis Membrane - GE Osmonics - $24.99 Thanks so much for the help AZDesertRat! Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Add a new capillary tube flow restrictor or you will be right back to the same place. The biggest flaw with those systems is the 1:1 waste ratio which quickly ruins the membrane. Vertex and a few others attempted to copy the Spectrapure UHE-100 but completely missed the boat where Spectrapure uses stored DI water to flush the membrane and also to pickle or store it in DI water when not in use. This is the whole reason the UHE works so well and others don't. I know as I have owned the UHE for 7 years and have personally dissected a Vertex to see its problems and issues. If it were assembled on this continent it would never pass UL, UPC or CE certification testing. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Add a new capillary tube flow restrictor or you will be right back to the same place. The biggest flaw with those systems is the 1:1 waste ratio which quickly ruins the membrane. Vertex and a few others attempted to copy the Spectrapure UHE-100 but completely missed the boat where Spectrapure uses stored DI water to flush the membrane and also to pickle or store it in DI water when not in use. This is the whole reason the UHE works so well and others don't. I know as I have owned the UHE for 7 years and have personally dissected a Vertex to see its problems and issues. If it were assembled on this continent it would never pass UL, UPC or CE certification testing. I will order a TDS Meter and capillary tube flow restrictor. Water here is pretty soft and I will measure the calcium carbonate hardness. The unit is 1:1.5 ratio but yea 1:3-4 is more ideal. -Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Your hardness and TDS will determine what your waste ratio needs to be to optimize your system. 1.5:1 is not good in almost any conditions unless you can do as I do and flush the membrane with DI water Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Your hardness and TDS will determine what your waste ratio needs to be to optimize your system. 1.5:1 is not good in almost any conditions unless you can do as I do and flush the membrane with DI water Called Spectrapure today to add this to my order 2 - Tee Union - 1/4in Quick Connect, Acetal 1 - Elbow Male Adapter - 1/4in Quick Connect x 1/8 MPT, Acetal (On the Vertex the return fitting on the membrane has some time a metal valve in it or something) 1 - HM Digital TDS-4TM Pocket Size TDS Meter 1 - Flow Restrictor - Standard - 90-GPD Now, I am thinking should I make this a 5 stage unit? if so what do I need to make this happen? Also, adding another membrane in a series to double output to 200gpd? Thanks Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 You could easily add an additional DI to what you have and install a MaxCap or Super MaxCap DI in the first DI and a SilicaBuster or Super SilicaBuster in the second. I run this combination and get a year or more out of a standard MaxCap DI cartridge and 3 or more years out of a single SilicaBuster. Thats with a 100G display w/30G sump and a 16G nano mixed reef with a softened tap water TDS over 550 going in. You would want the MaxCap single stage add on. Put the MaxCap cartridge in your existing housing and the SilicaBuster in the new one. Also on you next order, skip the color changing resin and stick with non color changing resin. Color changing resins contain dyes and actually add trace amounts of TDS back to the water during the color change process. Besides that it can be unreliable and why a handheld TDS meter is your best friend and the only accurate way to gauge resin condition. Your booster pump will not keep up with dual membranes, it is designed for a single membranes output. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 You could easily add an additional DI to what you have and install a MaxCap or Super MaxCap DI in the first DI and a SilicaBuster or Super SilicaBuster in the second. I run this combination and get a year or more out of a standard MaxCap DI cartridge and 3 or more years out of a single SilicaBuster. Thats with a 100G display w/30G sump and a 16G nano mixed reef with a softened tap water TDS over 550 going in. You would want the MaxCap single stage add on. Put the MaxCap cartridge in your existing housing and the SilicaBuster in the new one. Also on you next order, skip the color changing resin and stick with non color changing resin. Color changing resins contain dyes and actually add trace amounts of TDS back to the water during the color change process. Besides that it can be unreliable and why a handheld TDS meter is your best friend and the only accurate way to gauge resin condition. Your booster pump will not keep up with dual membranes, it is designed for a single membranes output. Ahhh kk awesome news! At first, I was thinking about adding another carbon block but do make sense I will place an order for addon on my next order of filters from spectra! Thanks so much for the help and info. The booster pump pressure for membrane is at 110psi. Seem kinda high? Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Not really, membranes are rated at 150 psi. It is the housings and fittings on many imported systems that are the weak link if they are not Uniform Plumbing Code rated for 125 psi working pressure. I run my booster between 95-100 psi and never had any issues. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Not really, membranes are rated at 150 psi. It is the housings and fittings on many imported systems that are the weak link if they are not Uniform Plumbing Code rated for 125 psi working pressure. I run my booster between 95-100 psi and never had any issues. My TDS at the apartment is 276ppm. Also, my filters are here! Just waiting on the membrane now Also, do I measure the output and know how much to cut on the flow restrictor? Thanks Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Check the FAQ section, the video section or any of their Owners Manuals found here: http://www.spectrapure.com/ They show or tell you how to trim and adjust the flow restrictor step by step. Unless you have softened water I would suggest sticking between 3.5:1 and 4:1 for best membrane life. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Check the FAQ section, the video section or any of their Owners Manuals found here: http://www.spectrapure.com/ They show or tell you how to trim and adjust the flow restrictor step by step. Unless you have softened water I would suggest sticking between 3.5:1 and 4:1 for best membrane life. Here is the the Unit I picked up from my cousin Taking the RODI unit apart as I see some fitting leaking and need some tube replacement. Unit got new SpectraPure 1 micron sediment and carbon filter with SpectraPure DI filter Mounted above the washer at the apartment. Also picked up my Brute 20g mixing bin. My new salt for mixing. Stop using LFS salt (Instant Ocean Mix) I would like to thank AZDesertRat for the help modifying my unit and help me getting the right filters for my unit Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Glad I could help. Others have helped me throughout my years in the hobby and I'm just passing it forward. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Glad I could help. Others have helped me throughout my years in the hobby and I'm just passing it forward. AZ, I am trying to make this unit drinking water as well. Right now I just have a regular T adapter (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ro-tee-union-push-connect.html) in between the RO and DI stage. I have a close valve at the end of the line (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ro-inline-ball-valve-push-connect.html) where the drinking water comes out. Will this work? or I need a different T with a valve built in ( http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/3-way-ball-valve-with-john-guest-1-4-push-connect.html)? Thanks Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 All you need is a check valve as pictured here: http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf The check valve isolates the pressure tank or faucet or whatever you have from the DI so and DI is made directly from the membrane and not from water that could contain TDS creep. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 All you need is a check valve as pictured here: http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf The check valve isolates the pressure tank or faucet or whatever you have from the DI so and DI is made directly from the membrane and not from water that could contain TDS creep. AZ, I feel like a ding-dong lol I just placed an order for a check valve to put on after the Tee and right before the fitting for di canisters. Does that sound right? Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 The check valve goes on the drinking water leg of the tee as seen in the drawing. Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 The check valve goes on the drinking water leg of the tee as seen in the drawing. AZDesertRat, I was part of the BRS GB and bought new filter canisters cause the one on the Vertex was poorly built and leaking. I replaced them with BRS one and added some color lines. I also rearranged the canisters like how the spectrapure unit. I am still waiting on the check valve to put on the end of the white line on the right side of the rodi unit. (Drinking Water Line) TDS going in unit is 250ppm out of RO membrane is 7ppm and out of DI is Zero -Anthony Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Why does the red line, I assume it is the tap water IN to the sediment filter, have a tee on it and where does the other side lead other than to the sediment filter? I would think it would go IN in front and OUT the back side into the carbon block? Link to comment
APLATN13 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Why does the red line, I assume it is the tap water IN to the sediment filter, have a tee on it and where does the other side lead other than to the sediment filter? I would think it would go IN in front and OUT the back side into the carbon block? The Tee Fitting goes to the sediment filter and the other line goes the the pressure switch. So it will kick on the pump and solenoid so flow will go into the carbon block. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Never seen it done like that, most pressure switches fit inline so the flow would go through it then continue to the next canister or component downstream. Like as seen in the diagram here: http://spectrapure.com/huds/NEW-BPK-PS-DI-DWK.pdf Link to comment
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