ajmckay Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 I would extend the last baffles (both) so the heater is always in water but otherwise pretty sweet design. Very good point that I forgot! The baffles should be at least as tall as the heater so that the heater can't run dry. Now I'm trying to visualize what would happen if one baffle was say 9" high (figuring an 8" heater") and the other baffle 4" high... I think that it would give you a little bit more wiggle room with regard to evaporation, though only minimally so for the sake of keeping the cut list and assembly simple (and being able to put the heater in either chamber so it doesn't accidentally get put in the wrong one) I would probably just keep the baffles the same height. Also, the spacing between the baffles and the media rack holder don't need to be very large... I'm thinking 1/2" or so. So if the left chamber is about 3 1/2" then 1/2" for baffle, then about 4" for overflow/media rack area, then another 1/2" for baffle, then about 3 1/2" for the other pump/heater chamber. As for the thickness, I would see if you could do 4" instead of 3... this would give you a little more room in-case you want to change out a pump later on or any number of possible future changes. I suppose it just seems that 1" more won't make very much of a difference. I calculate 0.91 gallons available for evaporation at 3" using the above spacing (and 10" high). If you increase the depth to 4" I calculate 1.21 gallons, so over 30% more water. Link to comment
ashtricks Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 So this is what I am going to attempt with my limited DIY skills and tools. I am thinking of adding some bio-media or rock rubble in a muslin cloth at the bottom of the middle chamber. As I will be going bare bottom, I think any biological filtration would help. What do you guys think? Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Looks bueno. I might be a little hesitant to use the muslin bag of rubble at the bottom though... I think muslin could get gunked up quickly and impede the flow through the filter. I would say a small bag of ceramic rings or something with a very open loose mesh surround. Link to comment
ashtricks Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 So I was able to get at this today... and cut the other two baffles and the weir in the side wall. I put them up as a mock up using painter tape. The return chambers have around 3 inches. coz 2 extra baffles took out 1/2 an inch from the space. I left about an inch of space from the bottom on the inner baffles and an inch and half from the top on the outer baffles. This brings the outer baffles slightly lower than the weir. The weir is 1 1/4 inch. Naturally... my cuts arent perfect. So its going to take a herculean effort to silicone the whole thing to the tank. Lessons learnt: If I have to do this again, I will NOT use the scoring tool at all. Hack saw is so much easier! I will start by siliconing the baffles to the tank by applying the silicone to the baffle edges. Then silicone the wall to the baffles. Or, should I first super glue the baffles to the wall and then silicone the whole thing to the tank? I am going to have to get some chopsticks now I would appreciate any tips on putting the whole thing together. Link to comment
russ722 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Got further then I did,I got frustrated trying to cut the acrylic ,and just went with a stock 20long basic tank. Link to comment
ashtricks Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Got further then I did,I got frustrated trying to cut the acrylic ,and just went with a stock 20long basic tank. It is definitely easier to cut with a hack saw blade. Are you ditching the AIO plans? Link to comment
CJJon Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Ditch the rubble/biomedia. It is just a crap trap and you will most likely end up cursing it and pulling it out of there. A 20L with an AC70 or AC110 is hard to beat--and you can get it going in no time flat! Search for AC70 mods on how to add a fuge, etc. Link to comment
russ722 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 It is definitely easier to cut with a hack saw blade. Are you ditching the AIO plans? Yea for the time being I'm ditching the idea.but will be following along .still wanna do this one day.right now I have a ac110 fuge on the back of my 20long. I'm sending you a pm to a link for a aio 20l I found.not sure if I can post it here. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Looks good! I do like the idea of using an AC110 power filter, the problem IMO is cost... those things aren't cheap, but if you have one use it though. Definitely superglue the baffles to the wall first then silicone the whole thing in... Make sure you drill the holes first too... Be careful doing that. Don't use a spade bit or a hole saw. If you don't have a large enough bit then drill a few small holes and connect them with a coping saw. A dremel might also work for this small amount of cutting. 1) Super glue the baffles to the wall - lets you get the spacing exactly how you want it and you are more likely to get everything standing up straight (vs. the silicone, which could allow the baffles to sag slightly or otherwise not end up perfectly straight). If the edges are too far off then you could use silicone to fill the gaps or use the acrylic silicone you can buy at home depot. 2) Set it against a flat surface and make sure all the baffles are even, if one is too tall you can sand it down a little 3) Silicone it into the tank. Use rubber gloves, use painters tape to mask off anywhere you don't want to get silicone Good luck! Link to comment
CJJon Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 An AC110 can be had for $80 shipped to your door. The AC70 is even cheaper at $44. A bargain IMO. That's practically free in this hobby! Link to comment
ashtricks Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 I don't like anything HOB. I feel its too big a risk of overflowing in case of a failure. Plus they take up space outside the tank... hanging on glass... Even though a lot of people use it.... its just too much for me... Link to comment
ashtricks Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 The holes are drilled and the wall is painted I drilled the holes with a cordless drill slow speed. Did not have big enough drill bits so made smaller holes and connected with the same drill. Later took sand paper, wrapped around a long screw and sanded the holes so that the fittings went in. You can see how bad job I did with it I painted the filter side with Krylon black paint for plastic. Decided to paint the filter side which I will not be cleaning/scraping. Had to do two coats. I rushed a bit without cleaning the acrylic properly. I am not unhappy with the outcome though. Will start gluing everything today. Link to comment
russ722 Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Looking good.I picked up a biocube 8g false wall from a buddy's broken tank that I'm gonna use in a 10g and see how it goes. Link to comment
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