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(Feedback Needed) My plan for a natural low-tech nano reef.


mkemrtn

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Hello Everyone!


My name’s Mike and I’m new to this forum and reefing. I've been keeping a freshwater planted tank for ~6 years and have finally decided to switch over to the sea.



I've spent about 3 month scouring the internet for reefing tips, reading about the different types of setups, and visiting local aquarium shops. Below is my plan of action to start up my first saltwater tank, any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!



The Plan

To build a natural low-tech nano reef on a budget. Lots of corals and small fish bio-load.

My low-tech approach consists of using only live rock, live sand, plenty of water turnover, plus macro-algae and an air pump with diffuser in-tank. Picture of plan diagram attached. I've decided against a sump, overflow, protein skimmer, and any other reef gadgets.

I want to cut a clear piece of acrylic to cover the top to decrease evaporation, there will be a couple holes to let out extra air from the air pump. Weekly 10% water changes/top-off, macro-algae pruning, and sand bed cleaning.


The Big Questions

  1. Macro-algae in-tank as a nutrients exporter? Do you think a large amount of macro-algae planted at the back of the tank can keep nitrates low when pruned weekly with 10% water changes?
  2. Air pump + diffuser by plant bed? Do you think this will help regulate the amount of co2 in the tank even at night when the plants are expelling co2?
  3. Control macro algae spread? Maybe a clear piece of acrylic to separate the sand bed between the plants and rest of tank? I want them to grow up to be pruned, not out and all around the tank.
  4. Semi-sealing the top of the tank? Do you think a piece of clear acrylic over the top of the tank will dramatically minimize evaporation rates? There would be a couple holes drilled to let out air from the air pump.

Equipment

Tank: Mr. Aqua Luminous 17.1 Gallon Frameless Glass Aquarium (Link)

Light: 50watt Led. 25w of white and 25w of blue. (Link)

Powerhead: Hydor Koralia Nano 425gph (Link)

Heater: ViaAqua Titanium 100 Watt Heater (Link)

Sand: Caribsea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite 10 lb (Link)

Rock: 25 Pound live coral from local shop.

Air Pump: Any suggestions for a very quiet air pump?

Diffuser: Won 12 Inch Flexible Air Diffuser (Link)

Valve: Marina Plastic Check Valve (Link)

Line: Tom Aquatics Flexible Air Line Tubing 8ft (Link)


Research

Glass > Acrylic = I like the reduced weight of acrylic for when moving is needed, but have consistently read that glass aquariums are easier to clean and don't scratch like acrylic. To me the longevity for glass to keep looking good is worth the weight, especially in a nano.

Frameless > Framed = It just looks so freaking beautiful! I know that I’ll have to be extra careful when moving is needed.

Nano > Regular Size = I don’t have the money or space for a full size tank (Maybe in the future!). I was originally going to use a 5 gallon fluval spec V but the lack of water volume scares me that stability will be an issue. Also, we will be buying a house this next year and the tank will need to be moved. I think 17 gallons is the ideal size for me in regards to price/space/eight/stability.

Live Rock = 25 Pounds in 1 large porous rock. I like the look and stability of 1 large rock versus multiple smaller rocks glued together. I am going to make sure it is a very porous piece of coral with lots of nooks and crannies for the animals to hide in.

Live Sand = 2 Inches. It seems to be an good amount for biological filtration but not too deep so that it will start to look dark and nasty after a couple weeks. I've read a lot of deep sand beds but I’m not convinced it has added benefit.

post-87074-0-55920900-1422221679_thumb.png

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This is looking good :welcome: to nr!!

For your first question if it is low stocking the macro algae and the 10% wc will be plenary to control nitrates for you. With low stocking nitrates stay very low anyway

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This is looking good :welcome: to nr!! For your first question if it is low stocking the macro algae and the 10% wc will be plenary to control nitrates for you. With low stocking nitrates stay very low anyway

Thanks for the feedback. Glad to be a part of NR - I like how modern it is compared to the other forum sites.

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Wow, well thought out! One thing, bubbling air through salt water is a bit different than fresh water. Two issues, salt creep and foaming/protein buildup.

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I think your plans are perfect for breaking into saltwater. A 17g tank is a good size, not huge but big enough to have a little breathing space. Some display fuges are awesome, (I am trying to attempt one myself for my seahorse tank)so I would not separate the macros from the rest of the tank with a piece of acrylic. Some macros like dragon's breath and blue scroll are beautiful and not invasive. Then a more invasive, (but better nitrate remover) like feather calerpa, or gracilaria can be put at the back of the tank in the sand bed or confined to its own rock where it can easily be kept at bay with pruning. Soft corals like leathers, zoas, palys and mushrooms also remove PO4 and nitrates. Most of them are easy to grow and would fare well in a simple system. They can war against each other with toxins so I generally feel activated carbon is beneficial in such systems.

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Will air bubbles in a saltwater talk add to protein buildup? I was thinking it would reduce it due to surface agitation. I'm curious for your thoughts/experience on this? Thanks for your insight too!

Wow, well thought out! One thing, bubbling air through salt water is a bit different than fresh water. Two issues, salt creep and foaming/protein buildup.



Great insight. I love the look of dragon's breath!

 

If i had good water-flow (50x) and hung a bag of activated carbon in the corner of the tank do you think that would do it?

 

I think your plans are perfect for breaking into saltwater. A 17g tank is a good size, not huge but big enough to have a little breathing space. Some display fuges are awesome, (I am trying to attempt one myself for my seahorse tank)so I would not separate the macros from the rest of the tank with a piece of acrylic. Some macros like dragon's breath and blue scroll are beautiful and not invasive. Then a more invasive, (but better nitrate remover) like feather calerpa, or gracilaria can be put at the back of the tank in the sand bed or confined to its own rock where it can easily be kept at bay with pruning. Soft corals like leathers, zoas, palys and mushrooms also remove PO4 and nitrates. Most of them are easy to grow and would fare well in a simple system. They can war against each other with toxins so I generally feel activated carbon is beneficial in such systems.

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A few tips... Don't use tap water period. Do yourself a favor and get dry rock instead of live. Don't use an air pump, it'll raise evaporation a lot and get salt EVERYWHERE. The main benefit of surface agitation is that it helps stabilize ph.

 

Lastly, spend a bit extra, and get a decent ATO right from the start, it will make your life so much easier.

 

Oh yeah, getting a variety of display macro algaes will definitely help. Some pretty ones are dragons breath,red Titan, and blue scroll.

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I'll be using a RO filter. What do you mean ATO right from the start? I honest don't know what the ATO phrase means...

 

A few tips... Don't use tap water period. Do yourself a favor and get dry rock instead of live. Don't use an air pump, it'll raise evaporation a lot and get salt EVERYWHERE. The main benefit of surface agitation is that it helps stabilize ph.

Lastly, spend a bit extra, and get a decent ATO right from the start, it will make your life so much easier.

Oh yeah, getting a variety of display macro algaes will definitely help. Some pretty ones are dragons breath,red Titan, and blue scroll.

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Will air bubbles in a saltwater talk add to protein buildup? I was thinking it would reduce it due to surface agitation. I'm curious for your thoughts/experience on this? Thanks for your insight too!

 

Great insight. I love the look of dragon's breath!

 

If i had good water-flow (50x) and hung a bag of activated carbon in the corner of the tank do you think that would do it?

Yes, I think that could help, especially if it was in an area where the flow is good.

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I'll be using a RO filter. What do you mean ATO right from the start? I honest don't know what the ATO phrase means...

An ATO is an automatic top off. It automatically adds fresh (non salt) water to the tank to make up for the water that evaporates. A cheap option would be:

 

Hydor Smart ATO + Tom's Aqualifter ($70+~$15)

 

A more expensive one would be:

Autoaqua Smart ATO ($150)

 

And the most expensive but also most reliable imo is the Tunze 3155, at $210.

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Setting up one of those definitely looks like it will make maintenance easier. How often would you say water changes would still be needed in a 17g nano if a ATO was setup?

 

An ATO is an automatic top off. It automatically adds fresh (non salt) water to the tank to make up for the water that evaporates. A cheap option would be:

 

Hydor Smart ATO + Tom's Aqualifter ($70+~$15)

 

A more expensive one would be:
Autoaqua Smart ATO ($150)

 

And the most expensive but also most reliable imo is the Tunze 3155, at $210.

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Well water changes won't be affected by the ATO. It will just help with stability. That said when your cycle is over I would go with 10% weekly.

 

Just a thought but have you considered an AIO like the IM fusion 20 gallon?

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