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Help me be successful with Z's and P's!


Catbus

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HI there, over all the time i've spent reefing I have never been able to keep Zoanthids or Palythoas happy! In my current tank my endeavor with them has been the most successful. However, over the recent months my polyps have refused to show skirts/mouths and remain just sticks. They do not disintegrate or dissapear they just stagnate. This seems to be a recurring problem for me.

 

What does this mean as far as an unhealthy reef goes? Not enough waterborne nutrients? rapid changes or something?

 

Some background info on current tank :

29 biocube

stock lights

mp10

stock return

#26 lb LR

8hr photoperiod

1clown 1 midas blen 1 yellow coris

6 cerith snails

chemi-pure elite

misc corals

3 frags are acting this way while my 65+ polyp Sunny D's seem ok

Parameters: No3: undetectable Po4: undetectable calcium: 440 ppm ph: 8.0 I'm sure that I have nutrients as I am battling Cyano. - using new salifert kits

I feed every other day lightly with pellets.

My husbandry includes blowing detritus off rocks every other day, 5 gallon water changes a week. replace filter floss every other day. (10 gallon water changes currently to combat cyano after vacation neglect)

 

I just started to Iodine dip the frags that arent doing well today with lugols. otherwise i'm not sure what I am doing wrong!

Right now my course of action has been to remove most of my substrate gradually with water changes, add chaeto to the 2nd chamber and possibly a bag of carbon.

What should I do?

 

Here is what they looked like for about 2 months

http://imgur.com/BtXSZOx

and after the dip today

http://imgur.com/Axo3gUB

 

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Here are some step you would need to do for now will keep your coral happy again and no need to restart at this tine. Established tank is most valuable than the new tank.

 

1) Buy cyno remover from chemiclean, liquid type, do 1 drop per gallon (25 drops for your tank)

 

2) Use additional air pump to provide more oxygen for tank water while treatment.

 

3) Do 20% water change after 48 hours of treatment

 

4) Do 3 Gallon water change every 2 weeks. Too many water change and high percentage of water change would created negative effect in water chemistry.

 

5) No more dip unless you are sure there are pets on your coral like Nudi or spyder. Dip will stress them more then helping them to recover.

 

You zoa will recover and happy again if you could follow these steps.

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I would look into getting a reactor and running some GFO. I would start with 1/2 the recommended dosage and change out the media weekly for 3 weeks while working up to the recommended amount and see if there are results with the cyan, and zoas. What settings do you run the MP10? I also see you aren't running a skimmer, do you have anything to promote gas exchange? Maybe add an airstone? I am not saying these are surefire solutions just things that may help. Also what is your ALK?

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