DaveFason Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 So can this plug right into a Nanobox light or do we need to do some hacking? It will. It uses the same plug and all! I will be selling these as well. It's absolutely compatible, and if you have been using the Storm controller it is plug-and-play with Dave's connections. We saw this at the exact same moment, some second, it is meant to be! Link to comment
Horerczy Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Color me confused but if the Controller only does up to a 3.3V signal doesn't that mean the highest output an LDD driver receiving signal from the unit would be 66% seeing as the native maximum PWM signal of an LDD is 5V. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Color me confused but if the Controller only does up to a 3.3V signal doesn't that mean the highest output an LDD driver receiving signal from the unit would be 66% seeing as the native maximum PWM signal of an LDD is 5V. No, PWM doesn't adjust the output voltage of the dimming pins, it just pulses the same voltage for different lengths of time. The voltage itself can be any, the LDD-H accept a PWM voltage range of 2.5v up to 6v, and LDD-L accept 3.5v to 8v. Link to comment
Lawnman Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Blows my mind people know so much about a circuit board or lights No, PWM doesn't adjust the output voltage of the dimming pins, it just pulses the same voltage for different lengths of time. The voltage itself can be any, the LDD-H accept a PWM voltage range of 2.5v up to 6v, and LDD-L accept 3.5v to 8v. Link to comment
HVani Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 So it can do the same things as the bigger one? What's the advantage for the more expensive one? Would this work on my Nanobox quad? I think I might need this Link to comment
NanoFever Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Early March. Perfect...thats probably about the time where I wont be able to hold out any longer and get some new LED's from Dave to try out his new pucks and this bad ass controller! Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 So it can do the same things as the bigger one? What's the advantage for the more expensive one? Would this work on my Nanobox quad? I think I might need this If you're using LDD drivers (which Nanobox does), it does everything the full controller can. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 The advantage to the bigger unit is that it can handle a wider range or drivers. The Mini will be limited to drivers that can accept a 3.3v PWM signal, which would include the LDDs, Luxdrive Buckpucks (unconfirmed), Recom RCD drivers (unconfirmed), and home built drivers that meet the requirements. The full size Bluefish can do all of that, and pretty much any Meanwell or Inventronics driver that has an analog or digital dimming method (10v pwm, 0-10v, etc...), as well as the expansion port for whatever external control modules Spencer decides to grace us with for full system control. Link to comment
knd107 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Why did I just see this!? Spencer, You going to do a pre-order or something special for people that already has the regular controller? Also, are you going to be adding the fan control per Jedi? Its just using a 4-wire fan, correct? So it can do the same things as the bigger one? What's the advantage for the more expensive one? Would this work on my Nanobox quad? I think I might need this Yes, but it only controls LDD drivers. The regular controller can control almost everything else out there. Right now, I have it controlling 2 tanks; 1 tank is 0-10V and the other is 0-10V PWM. Advantages are support of different drivers. See above response. It also has the expansion port for future additions. Although the original controller is not big, I am guessing that this one will be 20-50% smaller and maybe easier to integrate into fixtures. The LDD boards are fairly small as well then you only need to run wiring to the power supply. You will need access to the imp card to set it up tho. Of course, only a benefit to certain individuals. I don't have a nanobox .... yet so I can't really provide any input to that one. I don't think you'll have a issue tho. The advantage to the bigger unit is that it can handle a wider range or drivers. The Mini will be limited to drivers that can accept a 3.3v PWM signal, which would include the LDDs, Luxdrive Buckpucks (unconfirmed), Recom RCD drivers (unconfirmed), and home built drivers that meet the requirements. The full size Bluefish can do all of that, and pretty much any Meanwell or Inventronics driver that has an analog or digital dimming method (10v pwm, 0-10v, etc...), as well as the expansion port for whatever external control modules Spencer decides to grace us with for full system control. Damnit Evil, you ninja-ed me. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Also, are you going to be adding the fan control per Jedi? Looks like he already has digital output enabled (basically just forcing full on for a set time period). Its just using a 4-wire fan, correct? No, four wire fans require a very different frequency for PWM control. This is basically for forcing like a relay, or in my case, a simple circuit that uses a PWM signal (or a full output voltage) to pulse the output of a 12v supply, or a full-on voltage with no pulsing that just does on/off. Link to comment
knd107 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Looks like he already has digital output enabled (basically just forcing full on for a set time period). No, four wire fans require a very different frequency for PWM control. This is basically for forcing like a relay, or in my case, a simple circuit that uses a PWM signal (or a full output voltage) to pulse the output of a 12v supply, or a full-on voltage with no pulsing that just does on/off. Yeah, I'm too lazy to review all the diagrams. I was hoping it was like the storm fan channels that output ... ... what 25kHz PWM...? Right now, my fans are always on. I just want on/off too. I guess I'll start looking at it. Does the nanobox fixtures use the fan control on the storm? How is it wired when upgrading to the bluefish? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Yeah, I'm too lazy to review all the diagrams. I was hoping it was like the storm fan channels that output ... ... what 25kHz PWM...? Right now, my fans are always on. I just want on/off too. I guess I'll start looking at it. O2Surplus on Reefcentral makes little drop-in boards for using Meanwell SCW drop-down DC converters, they output 12v from 36-72v input, and then has the fan circuit I posted on the previous page that accepts a PWM signal to control 2 pin and 3 pin fans (which are not PWM). Does the nanobox fixtures use the fan control on the storm? How is it wired when upgrading to the bluefish? No, the fans on the Nanobox fixtures are always on. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Just to clarify. The Nano Box units that are currently using a Storm can be upgraded to this without any mods. Simply plug it in. I have been using one now for a week or so. As for the fans. The Duo has a separate plug that you can use a simple wall timer with. The Mini series is stricly on/off. I will am almost finished with a how to for the fans to be separate. Tons of stuff in the works over here. Only to better your tanks! -Dave Link to comment
Horerczy Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 No, PWM doesn't adjust the output voltage of the dimming pins, it just pulses the same voltage for different lengths of time. The voltage itself can be any, the LDD-H accept a PWM voltage range of 2.5v up to 6v, and LDD-L accept 3.5v to 8v. So it's useless for my nanobox then? Mine uses ldd-700L. The LDD-Lwith the LDD-H footprint would be compatible though. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 so whats in the works as far as cases go? 3d printed? CNC cases (Dave) ? or would the metal case degrade/block the wifi/Bluetooth signal? Link to comment
NanoFever Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 so whats in the works as far as cases go? 3d printed? CNC cases (Dave) ? or would the metal case degrade/block the wifi/Bluetooth signal? I am not sure but since it doesnt come with a case and it has a smaller footprint I would assume that these could be integrated right into your fixture since its controlled through the app? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 So it's useless for my nanobox then? Mine uses ldd-700L. The LDD-Lwith the LDD-H footprint would be compatible though. If it uses LDD-300L to 700L, then yes, this will not work. The larger LDD-L and LDD-H will work. so whats in the works as far as cases go? 3d printed? CNC cases (Dave) ? or would the metal case degrade/block the wifi/Bluetooth signal? I am not sure but since it doesnt come with a case and it has a smaller footprint I would assume that these could be integrated right into your fixture since its controlled through the app? ^this, these are made without cases to be as compact as possible. Mine is going inside my Sunpower, and I'll report how it does with wifi. I get about half the signal that I do in the room with the tank as I do standing in front of the access point, so we'll see how the aluminum enclosure hinders it. I wish that the Bluefish would give a signal strength reading somewhere. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 If it uses LDD-300L to 700L, then yes, this will not work. The larger LDD-L and LDD-H will work. ^this, these are made without cases to be as compact as possible. Mine is going inside my Sunpower, and I'll report how it does with wifi. I get about half the signal that I do in the room with the tank as I do standing in front of the access point, so we'll see how the aluminum enclosure hinders it. I wish that the Bluefish would give a signal strength reading somewhere. I don't think i'll have the option to put the module inside my new light. not sure if the will be room so it'll have to be mounted elsewhere and would like to not have it exposed if possible. maybe a small project box with a cord grip connector Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I don't think i'll have the option to put the module inside my new light. not sure if the will be room so it'll have to be mounted elsewhere and would like to not have it exposed if possible. maybe a small project box with a cord grip connector I'll be sending it with the Nanobox driver enclosure, but it's pretty packed in there, and IMHO that many LDD in it get too hot to keep enclosed, so I leave the top off of it. If they were touching the top, though, that would probably be ok since they would transfer the heat. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 yeah I know the driver box is cramped so i'll figure something out once the BF mini is available Link to comment
flobees Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Spencer is the Bluefish update here yet? Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Well, I know what controller I'll be using with my light. This is a pretty awesome response to the popular ldd drivers. Maybe I missed it but, when is this suppose to be for sale? Link to comment
SpencerShepard Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Why did I just see this!? Spencer, You going to do a pre-order or something special for people that already has the regular controller? Also, are you going to be adding the fan control per Jedi? Its just using a 4-wire fan, correct? Honestly this is rock-bottom pricing. I definitely appreciate your support of the Bluefish line though! PWM fan control is definitely possible. I don't have the settings in place yet, but each channel can have it's own PWM frequency. Up to and exceeding 25kHz. I think 3.3V works with many PWM fans but I haven't done much research on this. Link to comment
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