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Marineland Mini-Jet 606 - NOTICE - UPDATED 11.11.16


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Rio 800 in a spec3


There's the Rio+ 800 in the right rear chamber of the Fluval Spec III.

 

Fits in there snug but unsure about previous models of the tank. A heads up that its pretty noisy and if starting from scratch i'd opt for the Sicce. Too bad my lfs was out of the ~150 gph model.

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2004jeeplaredo

Yes mine was the rio 800+. I'll take a photo to confirm

was it modified? Was it in the larger filter chamber or smaller return chamber? Can you post a pic of it out of the water with dementions maybe? Thank you.
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It's unmodified and in the right/smaller return chamber. I'll take another pic next week and post it.

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2004jeeplaredo

It's unmodified and in the right/smaller return chamber. I'll take another pic next week and post it.

huh, ok. I may need to upgrade up from the 606 to this one. It seems to have about 50gph more then the 606
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2004jeeplaredo

It's unmodified and in the right/smaller return chamber. I'll take another pic next week and post it.

also if ya do can you measure the inside width and length of the chamber and post them. I suspect the spec III may be slightly larger
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Chamber size is 2 and 1/8 x 3 and 1/2 inches. I find this very strange that there may be different sized rear chambers to the same tank.

 

I noted that the Rio is relatively noisy, and i'd opt for the sicce if it is available. You can cut down the Rio noise by removing the outlet nozzle but it is still less than silent. Another option: i forget where, but I saw someone using a hydor pico evo in a spec III that produces roughly the same flow as the rio+ that might fit.

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2004jeeplaredo

Chamber size is 2 and 1/8 x 3 and 1/2 inches. I find this very strange that there may be different sized rear chambers to the same tank.

 

I noted that the Rio is relatively noisy, and i'd opt for the sicce if it is available. You can cut down the Rio noise by removing the outlet nozzle but it is still less than silent. Another option: i forget where, but I saw someone using a hydor pico evo in a spec III that produces roughly the same flow as the rio+ that might fit.

ok good info. I did feel the same about my 606 noise wise but after a few weeks it went nearly silent, it may just need broken in. My 606 out of the box was very noisy. Now its a low low hum i can barely notice

My spec v rear outlet chamber is exactly 2 x 2 1/8 in. Interesting....

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Zorion825

The chamber in the Spec V (which is what I have) must be smaller than Spec III. That being said, I'm in the same boat, desperately trying to find a replacement pump. I got an aquatop NP-302 today (http://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-NP-302-Aquarium-Submersible-Pump/dp/B006K31WLC/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1E858GTD827SKJD5B2G1), but its still too big--just barely. I couldn't figure out a way to modify it to fit either. I'm going ot order that Rio now too and see if I can't modify it to fit somehow. How much bigger than the chamber is it?

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ashtricks

The chamber in the Spec V (which is what I have) must be smaller than Spec III. That being said, I'm in the same boat, desperately trying to find a replacement pump. I got an aquatop NP-302 today (http://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-NP-302-Aquarium-Submersible-Pump/dp/B006K31WLC/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1E858GTD827SKJD5B2G1), but its still too big--just barely. I couldn't figure out a way to modify it to fit either. I'm going ot order that Rio now too and see if I can't modify it to fit somehow. How much bigger than the chamber is it?

 

I hope you have not ordered the Rio 800+ yet. I just got mine (for a different tank) delivered at home and have a spec V lying around. I will see if it fits the chamber and let you guys know.

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Not yet, want to sell what does but haven't been tipped off yet on anything that actually fits.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, I found a pump that works. The Hydor Pico Evo-Mag 180 pump (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UK5CTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) fits perfectly, with a little bit of finess. I was originally given the idea from a user on this thread: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/360278-substitute-for-minijet-606-in-fluval-spec-v/

 

However, I made a few adjustments to make it better for me. I'll go step by step with my modifications.

 

1. Remove the media basket.

 

2. Take the wire of the pump and fold it in half such that the fold is about 1 foot to 1.5 feet from the pump.

 

3. Take the folded/rounded part of the wire that you just folded and insert it into the pump area so that the wire hits the bottom of the tank.

 

4. With a tool go into the pump area and push the wire towards the media basket. This should create a kink in the wire allowing you to push the wire under the divider and into the media basket.

 

5. With your hand, or a tool, go into the media basket section and pull the wire out so that you can reach it easily. Do not pull the pump into the filtration area yet.

 

6. Next we prep the pump. Rotate the nozzle so that the output is facing up. Because of the way the nozzle is desined, there are two end results of this step. You will either end up with the nozzle facing up bot at the very end of the pump or with the nozzle facing up but located towards the middle of the pump. this is hard to explain without pictures, but if you play around with it you will understand what I mean. If you plan to use more rigid tubing, it is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL that the nozzle be placed in the middle, and not at the end, otherwise the tubing won't withstand the necessary curve. If you are using the original tubing, it shouldn't matter.

 

7. place the pump in the tube such that the nozzle is facing a corner of the pump section. The red portion of the pump should be facing up and the pump should be oriented based on where the wire is going to rotate it. Essentially, you want it so that the natural straightening of the wire will rotate the pump so that the nozzle is facing up.

 

8. Here comes the trickiest part of the modification. You will need some sort of a tool (I used this) to help rotate the pump so that it sits flat. The best advise I have for you here, is don't be afraid to pull the pump out an inch or too and try to push it back in. It takes some finagling to get it to fit just right but it will fit, it just takes time and a little bit of luck.

 

9. Pull the excess wire out of the media basket through the pump section so there is no interference with the filtration system.

 

10. Use the tool again to rotate the red portion of the pump so that the pump is fully open. this isn't too hard because the gate, unlike the nozzle, is very easy to turn.

 

11. Finally, take the ORIGINAL tubing, and simply push the tubing into the output nozzle on the pump. It helps if you put the elbow on first so you have more control over the tubing. DO NOT push the tubing in too far, however, as it will interfere with the impeller in the pump.

 

12. You can leave the original reflector on the end or replace it. I found the original reflector to be way too restrictive, so I left the elbow as the output and put a little bit of vinyl tubing over it to secure it in place.

 

13. Sit back and enjoy the 180 GPH of flow in your tank =D

 

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask any questions.

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2004jeeplaredo

So, I found a pump that works. The Hydor Pico Evo-Mag 180 pump (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UK5CTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) fits perfectly, with a little bit of finess. I was originally given the idea from a user on this thread: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/360278-substitute-for-minijet-606-in-fluval-spec-v/

 

However, I made a few adjustments to make it better for me. I'll go step by step with my modifications.

 

1. Remove the media basket.

 

2. Take the wire of the pump and fold it in half such that the fold is about 1 foot to 1.5 feet from the pump.

 

3. Take the folded/rounded part of the wire that you just folded and insert it into the pump area so that the wire hits the bottom of the tank.

 

4. With a tool go into the pump area and push the wire towards the media basket. This should create a kink in the wire allowing you to push the wire under the divider and into the media basket.

 

5. With your hand, or a tool, go into the media basket section and pull the wire out so that you can reach it easily. Do not pull the pump into the filtration area yet.

 

6. Next we prep the pump. Rotate the nozzle so that the output is facing up. Because of the way the nozzle is desined, there are two end results of this step. You will either end up with the nozzle facing up bot at the very end of the pump or with the nozzle facing up but located towards the middle of the pump. this is hard to explain without pictures, but if you play around with it you will understand what I mean. If you plan to use more rigid tubing, it is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL that the nozzle be placed in the middle, and not at the end, otherwise the tubing won't withstand the necessary curve. If you are using the original tubing, it shouldn't matter.

 

7. place the pump in the tube such that the nozzle is facing a corner of the pump section. The red portion of the pump should be facing up and the pump should be oriented based on where the wire is going to rotate it. Essentially, you want it so that the natural straightening of the wire will rotate the pump so that the nozzle is facing up.

 

8. Here comes the trickiest part of the modification. You will need some sort of a tool (I used this) to help rotate the pump so that it sits flat. The best advise I have for you here, is don't be afraid to pull the pump out an inch or too and try to push it back in. It takes some finagling to get it to fit just right but it will fit, it just takes time and a little bit of luck.

 

9. Pull the excess wire out of the media basket through the pump section so there is no interference with the filtration system.

 

10. Use the tool again to rotate the red portion of the pump so that the pump is fully open. this isn't too hard because the gate, unlike the nozzle, is very easy to turn.

 

11. Finally, take the ORIGINAL tubing, and simply push the tubing into the output nozzle on the pump. It helps if you put the elbow on first so you have more control over the tubing. DO NOT push the tubing in too far, however, as it will interfere with the impeller in the pump.

 

12. You can leave the original reflector on the end or replace it. I found the original reflector to be way too restrictive, so I left the elbow as the output and put a little bit of vinyl tubing over it to secure it in place.

 

13. Sit back and enjoy the 180 GPH of flow in your tank =D

 

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask any questions.

interesting. Pictures? Would it fit in a spec v withought rerouting the power cord under the divider wall?
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I'll work on picks this weekend. As for the diveder wall, yes and no? Originally I put the pump through the media basket then passed it under into the pump section then pulled the pump through the pumpo section out of water, adjusted the nozzle and put it back into the pump section. This is more work and it leaves the cable up against the media filter and (if you have the original system) making more room for water to not get filtered. My impression is that there is a small gap when using the itank system and the cable does fit there.

 

The way I did it, the only way I could get the pump to sit down flat was by pulling it through the media basket after placing it into the pump section. But at least this way the cable was not interfering with anything afterwards. I suppose you could do it without my method, but it's gonna be hard I'm sure.

 

My only complaint so far is the nozzle. I can't find a good output nozzle that will fit the original spec elbow AND be directional. What I have on there is just a little tubing connecting a straight 45 degree slant nozzle. I wanted to take my koraline 240 out now that I already have 180 with the mag, but if I do that there is no surface break and therefore no airation and all the particles sit on the top and go on filtered. If I can find a proper rotatable nozzle, it would be perfect. I tried this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPF4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01but the water would be dispersed so much that it was as if no flow came out of it and, obviously, there was no surface breakage.

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2004jeeplaredo

I'll work on picks this weekend. As for the diveder wall, yes and no? Originally I put the pump through the media basket then passed it under into the pump section then pulled the pump through the pumpo section out of water, adjusted the nozzle and put it back into the pump section. This is more work and it leaves the cable up against the media filter and (if you have the original system) making more room for water to not get filtered. My impression is that there is a small gap when using the itank system and the cable does fit there.

 

The way I did it, the only way I could get the pump to sit down flat was by pulling it through the media basket after placing it into the pump section. But at least this way the cable was not interfering with anything afterwards. I suppose you could do it without my method, but it's gonna be hard I'm sure.

 

My only complaint so far is the nozzle. I can't find a good output nozzle that will fit the original spec elbow AND be directional. What I have on there is just a little tubing connecting a straight 45 degree slant nozzle. I wanted to take my koraline 240 out now that I already have 180 with the mag, but if I do that there is no surface break and therefore no airation and all the particles sit on the top and go on filtered. If I can find a proper rotatable nozzle, it would be perfect. I tried this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPF4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01but the water would be dispersed so much that it was as if no flow came out of it and, obviously, there was no surface breakage.

I have the inovative marine spin stream and was able to make it work the the original elbow. I like it it just cuts down some flow but works great to randomize the flow.

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I'll work on picks this weekend. As for the diveder wall, yes and no? Originally I put the pump through the media basket then passed it under into the pump section then pulled the pump through the pumpo section out of water, adjusted the nozzle and put it back into the pump section. This is more work and it leaves the cable up against the media filter and (if you have the original system) making more room for water to not get filtered. My impression is that there is a small gap when using the itank system and the cable does fit there.

 

The way I did it, the only way I could get the pump to sit down flat was by pulling it through the media basket after placing it into the pump section. But at least this way the cable was not interfering with anything afterwards. I suppose you could do it without my method, but it's gonna be hard I'm sure.

 

My only complaint so far is the nozzle. I can't find a good output nozzle that will fit the original spec elbow AND be directional. What I have on there is just a little tubing connecting a straight 45 degree slant nozzle. I wanted to take my koraline 240 out now that I already have 180 with the mag, but if I do that there is no surface break and therefore no airation and all the particles sit on the top and go on filtered. If I can find a proper rotatable nozzle, it would be perfect. I tried this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPF4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01but the water would be dispersed so much that it was as if no flow came out of it and, obviously, there was no surface breakage.

Can we see some pictures on how you fit the pump inside the chamber?

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  • 10 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Any ETA or possible pre orders? Would love to get my hands on a 606!

 

Nothing yet, we will keep this updated when a more solid date can be posted.

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  • 1 month later...

 

Nothing yet, we will keep this updated when a more solid date can be posted.

So is this dream dead? I am just setting up a new spec v and need a pump. If the 606 are gone for good, I'll just go with the aqueon 600.
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