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Newbie here...first time nano-er...at college


rpdonahue

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Hey guys,

 

So I decided to take the plunge into the icy depths and bought over $200 in equipment and stock tonight online from various places. I'm currently a full time student at the University of Miami, originally from NJ. I have had freshwater tanks all my life but never a salt water tank and decided to finally take the plunge. I plan on having a small 10g nano 100% biologically filtered with live rock (ie: no HOB, protein skimmer, etc) here at UM. I plan to have a pair of clownfish and also some basic corals too (shrooms, etc). I ordered vastly off amazon and ebay for all the products I'll need. There is a local petco with some things I can go get quickly if ever need be. Here is my list so far. What I need to know from you guys now is if I am missing anything.

 

10 lbs live rock -- bought off ebay for about $5 a pound; color looked good and was a reputable seller...will update when arrives

Hagen Fluval Sea Hydrometer

50 gal, Instant Ocean Sea Salt

Hydor Koralia Nano 240 Circulation Pump

Wavepoint 12 inch 16 Watt Super Blue and DaylightMicro Sun LED Clamp Light

ViaAqua 50 Watt Heater

API Saltwater Master Test Kit

CaribSea Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black Aquarium Gravel, 20lbs

 

Thanks for all the help!

Ryan

 

 

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I know you're operating on a tight budget, but if you can squeeze a few notes out of your wallet, ditch the hydrometer and go for a refractrometer. Even a second-hand one is better and more accurate (once calibrated). Also, if you still have more money, try to get better test kits like Salifert because they're more accurate. API is crap based on my experience.

 

If you're going for a fully bio-filtered setup, don't add anymore fish to your setup, Skimmers and HOB filters give us a bit more wiggle room to compensate for a full-on filtration mechanism in a reef, but even then, these two equipment aren't fail-safe. Minimalistic nano reefs do best if you add things super-slow or focus on things that have tiny bioloads (take small inverts or tiny coral frags, for example). Adding too much too quick can result in a crash. And that opens up a whole new can of worms that you don't want to deal with - trust me on that one.

 

Last but not least, :welcome: to Nano-Reef! :)

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Thanks for the help!

 

I'll take a look at refractometers...I might in all honesty just cancel the salt order and grab some premade water from my LFS and then just do water changes with that water.

 

I'll also try to squeeze out the extra $$ for the better test kits.

 

I don't plan on adding any fish until I know this tank is well cycled and ready to go...partially cause I'm going to be away from this tank for two weeks mid December and won't be able to do water changes. Early January is the best I can do for any livestock besides snails for a cleanup crew perhaps. On that note, any tips for extended vacation times? 2 weeks+? I was planning on just doing a larger water change (40 to 50%) before I leave for these two weeks instead of a regular planned (10 to 20%) that will be done on a weekly basis oncee the tank it set up.

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NorthGaHillbilly

Completely my opinions, nor claiming ghospel, but a pi teat kits will get you through your cycle, and we'll into your first 6 months. With mostly softies, and the consistent WCs you'll need to do you shouldMt need the better test kits.

 

You should be fine with the circulation if you stick with what your looking at, tho I would suggest changing to a jebao wp10, as they can be had for dirt cheap now and will give you more flow options.

 

As for lighting, I would ditch that order and get your tank cycled and between now and then come up with a more developed plan on lighting. You'll end up ditching those lights within the next 3 months I expect, and resale won't be worth mentioning.

 

Not trying to come in and bust up your plans, but I literally bought two of the korlina pumps and had a wp10 in the mail a week later, $50 down the drain. As far as lighting, there are alot of lower cost options that will give you alot more flexibility

 

I'd put a glass top on it and just let your cycle run while your away. You could run your SG a little lower before you leave so it dosent get too crazy high

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Did a little research on the Jebao...do you not think that is too much flow for a little 10g nano? What would you suggest for lighting that is better and cheaper? Just a newbie here trying to get an idea of what I should be getting :)

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NorthGaHillbilly

The jebao should be fine, if you want it lower you can get a 12v power supply and cut the flow in half.

 

As for lighting I know there are several par 38 bulbs that people dig, you could start with one and later add a second if you want higher light corals

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I'll consider the Jebao...

 

The par 38 bulbs arent actually specifically for aquariums according to a quick google...but is that ok? I was looking at aquarium specific lighting...

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NorthGaHillbilly

Look as coral compulsion bulbs, I know there are many options bUT they have good reviews.

At this point I would get the rock in the tank and use one of your HOB filters from your FW days while you research for a few weeks. A little research will save you money and aggravation

 

Cheap option

http://coralcompulsion.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=622

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I'll take another look at my lighting situation...the Wavepoint is looking good for the softies that I want to grow...won't be able to do much more than that I believe. Even that "cheap" option is more than what I spent on the Wavepoint setup. I'll keep looking around though, Thanks!

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thegoldenboymike

Awesome man through some pictures up when you get all your stuff setup. Im new to the hobby as well and also live in south florida. Im going to FAU so it will be cool how your tank comes along compared to mine. B)

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Awesome! I plan on doing a thread setting up stuff soon! I'll be curious to see how the cycling goes over my two week break in December while my tank stays down here! Also looking for ideas as what to do with it over summer break if I don't stay down here...

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I have had a 10 gallon nano for a year with two clownfish and several coral. It was also my first tank and I suffered to learn how to care for it.

 

So in terms of flow, this has been my experience. I began with a 250, and an AC30 HOB filter, the flow was good, apparently, but a few months in, I started to see cyano bacteria (which is not an algae, but a bacteria that grows due to low flow and poor water movement), so i changed the 250 to the 425, and ADDED an AC110 HOB filter as well, only this way was cyano defeated, never to return again. I decluttered my display by placing my heater in there as well as some extra rock rubble for extra filtration and some poly filter.

 

The main thing here is, in my experience, to top off water DAILY. Make sure you have RODI water handy all the times (buy a RODI filter, asap), it takes about a Quart (4 cups) of RODI water daily in my system just to top it off. Then every other day, you MUST turkey baste ALL the rock. This is the best method for keeping a pristine tank with invisibly-clean water. Once a week, pick a day that will never change, do a 1 gallon water change. However, you will turkey baste the shit out of your rock and try to catch as much of the dirty water as you possibly can until you achieve a gallon of dirty tank water. Next, in a clean gallon jug - make sure you repeat the same process EVERY TIME you make a water change, religiously - that fills up EXACTLY how you know is the exact amount in ounces (OZ) of sea salt for that gallon of water. For 1gal, don't even worry about heating it up, just mix it up well, remove a gallon from the tank and replace it with the newly mixed water.

 

Basically have a cleaning schedule which you can stick to. Every other day - turkey baste rocks & clean glass. Once a week - Water Change. Bi-weekly, filter changes (if you get them).

 

So currently, just so you are clear, I run a Hydor 425, AC30 & AC110 (in my opinion only running a 250 is a recipe for disaster). I have polyfilter and purigen in my AC30. I have Polyfilter, liverock rubble, the heater, macro algae (with a small diy led lamp pointing directly at it with no light ever leaking into the display and is on 24hrs), i cut down the macro to a portion of its size once a month).

If you can get one of those current marine orbit usa LED lights, you can program it to even make thunderstorms, and since you aren't planning on keeping any difficult coral you can definitely thrive under one of these lamps.

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Pictures always look blue-er. I'd 2nd the recommendation for a Refractometer. On smaller tanks salinity fluctuates much easier. Refractometer is always spot on if calibrated right. I am currently setting up a 6 gal and its amazed me how much it changes.

 

Any ideas on fish?

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I want to do a pair of clowns (probably oscellaris) and maybe another smaller pair of something smaller. CUC from Reef Cleaners and probably just zoas for corals.

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I could see a goby / shrimp combo with perhaps a pair of clowns...you guys think that's too much of a load for a 10 gallon tank? I recently just acquired a hand me down skimmer that was free to me so I plan on making use of that hopefully.

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yeah a goby/shrimp+2clown is perfect, but add no more buddy!

When my 10g was maxed out, it had 2 clown, 6 sexy shrimp, 1 pistol shrimp, 1 wheeler goby and a bunch of coral.

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I also didn't think I had enough flow so I went and picked up a HOB filter today to add another 200 GPH of flow to the tank. As a plus, it also provides additional filtration :D Do you guys think I should put the filter with activated carbon in yet? Or hold off until my cycle is done?

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