Strange results after W/C...normal?

[reeferx2]

Good Evening Folks,

 

Did a regularly scheduled water change this afternoon on my 6 gallon setup. I feel the results are quite strange and I'm hoping to have some sense made out of them.

 

These are the results vs. Thursday night.

 

Today: Thursday:

 

Am: .50 .25

Ni: .25 .25

Na: 5-10 5

PH: 8.0 8.4

Cal: 320 350

Alk: 10 9

Phos: 0 0

SG: 1.023 1.022

 

- Notes on the W/C:

 

- Salinity was raised a hair in search of more calcium, ended up going down.

- Approx 2 gallons was changed, again in search of more calcium. No such luck.

 

 

- Notes on tank:

 

- Today is the 20 day mark, cycle was completed exactly 7 days ago.

- Livestock includes: 1 Turbo, 3 Nerite, 3 Nassirus, 1 bumble bee, 3 small cerith, and 5 dwarf cerith.

3 small Hermits

1 Zoa frag with about 8 polyps

1 Fire Shrimp

 

- Where I'm lost:

 

- How the heck did my 3 basic parameters rise after the W/C?

- Where is the calcium I desire? Trying to avoid dosing such a small tank.

 

 

 

 

 

[CronicReefer]

Your clean up crew has the potential to cause a mini cycle if too much is added at once. In a tank your size the snails may be absorbing the calc but there are other factors that can effect calc as well like magnesium and alk.

[reeferx2]

Ok so that explains the mini cycles, I added bits of tthe clean up crew a few days apart.

 

How does Alk and Mag affect Cal? And how is it corrected?

 

I bought Kent A/B just in case I ever needed it in an emergency situation, but I'm really trying to avoid that.

 

 

..I also wanted to mention that mmy media is a sponge, chemi-elite, and bio-max. All were rinsed with the water removed from tank.

[CronicReefer]

You should do another water change tomorrow and then track how the calc falls from there each day. The water change will also be good to get rid off ammonia and nitrite.

[reeferx2]

I'm going to let my tank muscle through whatever is going on. If it can't, then it's simply not the tank for me...and back to goldfish I go.

[CronicReefer]

I'm going to let my tank muscle through whatever is going on. If it can't, then it's simply not the tank for me...and back to goldfish I go.

Lol your tank will survive the mini cycle. Saltwater requires patience and persistence. If these are not your qualities then you may want to consider goldfish.

[ninjamyst]

what salt are you using?

[Deleted User 8]

What water are you using to make your SW? RO/DI? What salt mix? What test kits?

 

You should be OK, hang in there!

 

Buzz

[reeferx2]

What water are you using to make your SW? RO/DI? What salt mix? What test kits?

 

You should be OK, hang in there!

 

Buzz

I did one gallon of Nutri-sea, 1 gallon of RO and then topped it off with instant ocean to get my salinity right. I wonder if the nutri-sea is affecting my calcium level vs. Straight RO and salt, going to conduct a test now...

 

 

I use API test kits, they don't offer Magnesium so I'll have to use a different brand for that eventually.

 

Lol your tank will survive the mini cycle. Saltwater requires patience and persistence. If these are not your qualities then you may want to consider goldfish.

Lol, I know dude I wouldn't actually ditch the tank. This learning experience has been really cool. I just think back to back water changes would be a bit overkill, especially considering I just changed about 35%. I've done a handful of FW tanks growing up, and let them muscle through minor problems on their own..I see it as building an immune system.

[ninjamyst]

instant ocean has low calcium. you need instant ocean reef crystals.

[reeferx2]

instant ocean has low calcium. you need instant ocean reef crystals.

 

son of a gun! that makes a ton of sense. Still want to conduct this small study of calcium content between nutri-sea/RO/salt mix vs. RO/salt vs nutri-sea alone..stay tuned!

[reeferx2]

Nutri-Sea/RO/Salt mix = 320 Cal, Spec G: 1.024

 

RO/Salt = 360 Cal, Spec G: 1.024

 

Nutri-Sea only = 400 Cal, Spec G: 1.029

 

- Everything was tested at the same temperature.

 

- Didn't know the Nutri-Sea had such a high level of Salinity, which would explain the higher Calcium level when used alone - however still not in my desired 450 range. Doesn't matter because once you get this stuff within Salinity spec the Calcium will drop anyway.

 

- Was reading that 1.025 is a more desirable Spec G for a reef tank, I think I will try using Reef Crystal salt and see where that takes my Calcium situation. Orrrrrr, begin dosing, I'm not against dosing I'd just feel more accomplished in having a more naturally self sufficient system.

[cju84]

What type of water are you using - have you tested the levels on your water source?? It is very odd you have seen elevated spikes on multiple occassions, even after adding a CUC. After I added the CUC from reefcleaners (which is a HUGE CUC), I didn't see any spikes at all.

 

+1 on Ninja's comment about the salt.

 

You shouldn't even be concerned about/testing for calcium though with soft corals.

[reeferx2]

What type of water are you using - have you tested the levels on your water source?? It is very odd you have seen elevated spikes on multiple occassions, even after adding a CUC. After I added the CUC from reefcleaners (which is a HUGE CUC), I didn't see any spikes at all.

 

+1 on Ninja's comment about the salt.

 

You shouldn't even be concerned about/testing for calcium though with soft corals.

Yea I ordered the reef crystals the second he mentioned it and I read up on the product. When I initially set up my tank I had used a srep by step guide that didn't mention the reef crystals, just instant ocean.

 

As for the calcium concerns, I'm aware they aren't needed to keep softies, but I want them to have a large source of nutrition for color and growth rather than just survive.

 

Ultimately I've decided to stop using the nutri-sea once what I have left runs out and just switch to RO with reef crystals, once that's up and running I can gauge weather or not dosing will be needed.

 

The mini cycle is back under control and everything is stable again. Going to give it a few days of monitoring and then add 2 clowns. Might drop a few members from my CUC as well, think I've got a bit too much in my 6 gallon.

[ninjamyst]

I would not recommend two clowns in a 6 gallon. One is already questionable (although I have one in my 5.5g). Two will be too much bioload for such a small tank, and clowns get big fast.

[CronicReefer]

Yea I ordered the reef crystals the second he mentioned it and I read up on the product. When I initially set up my tank I had used a srep by step guide that didn't mention the reef crystals, just instant ocean.

As for the calcium concerns, I'm aware they aren't needed to keep softies, but I want them to have a large source of nutrition for color and growth rather than just survive.

Ultimately I've decided to stop using the nutri-sea once what I have left runs out and just switch to RO with reef crystals, once that's up and running I can gauge weather or not dosing will be needed.

The mini cycle is back under control and everything is stable again. Going to give it a few days of monitoring and then add 2 clowns. Might drop a few members from my CUC as well, think I've got a bit too much in my 6 gallon.

You should stick to small gobies or fish that stay under 3" and I would get only 1. And reef crystals will definitely help you out. It is what I use and I rarely have to dose calcium in my 29g with lps and sps.

[Maniu]

You can keep couple of these cute guys. I keep one in 1 gallon pico. He is under 1" and produces minimum bio-load. Easy fish to care for as well. The only thing to remember is to feed it proper diet, twice a day.

 

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+31+2613&pcatid=2613

[cju84]

OP - what is your water source? If you are using tap water, that could be your problem right there (even using tap just for top offs).

[reeferx2]

OP - what is your water source? If you are using tap water, that could be your problem right there (even using tap just for top offs).

 

I've only used R/O and Nutri-Sea since the very beginning. I haven't cut an expense corner anywhere.

 

You should stick to small gobies or fish that stay under 3" and I would get only 1. And reef crystals will definitely help you out. It is what I use and I rarely have to dose calcium in my 29g with lps and sps.

 

I'm hoping I won't have to dose either once I get the reef crystals, it'll be a few weeks worth of water changes before it is the sole source of water in my tank.

[cju84]

I've only used R/O and Nutri-Sea since the very beginning. I haven't cut an expense corner anywhere.

 

 

I'm hoping I won't have to dose either once I get the reef crystals, it'll be a few weeks worth of water changes before it is the sole source of water in my tank.

 

Make sure you test your R/O water source though. You should use Distilled over R/O as well if you can. It's considered a bit more pure (you should be able to get gallon jugs for $.99 at most).

 

Definitely test your water. You want to rule that out as the source of the problem.

[reeferx2]

Make sure you test your R/O water source though. You should use Distilled over R/O as well if you can. It's considered a bit more pure (you should be able to get gallon jugs for $.99 at most).

 

Definitely test your water. You want to rule that out as the source of the problem.

 

what am I looking for with this test?

[Deleted User 8]

I've only used R/O and Nutri-Sea since the very beginning. I haven't cut an expense corner anywhere.

 

Holey crap! You ain't kidding. $25 for 4.4 gallons of nutri-sea! That is $1136 per 200 gallons!

 

Kent Marine is less than $50 a box at my LFS. Makes the same 200 gallons.

 

Just because you are spending a ton of money does not mean you are getting the best or doing what works.

 

Buzz

 

 

what am I looking for with this test?

 

 

TDS, Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, Phos. I would test that spendy water too.

 

Should all be zero for your freshwater.

 

Buzz

[cju84]

what am I looking for with this test?

 

Your ammonia and nitrites are spiked, when they should be zero. You are looking to see if the source water you are using is the problem, so test your problem at the source, to rule that out. Should be the first thing done.

 

Edit: what Buzz said.

[reeferx2]

Holey crap! You ain't kidding. $25 for 4.4 gallons of nutri-sea! That is $1136 per 200 gallons!

 

Kent Marine is less than $50 a box at my LFS. Makes the same 200 gallons.

 

Just because you are spending a ton of money does not mean you are getting the best or doing what works.

 

Buzz

 

I only bought 2 containers of the Nutri-Sea, I've been using it as a mix with my R/O and salt. Once it runs out I'll only be using R/O and Reef Crystals exclusively, with the possibility of dosing between W/C's.

 

 

How do I test for TDS?? This is a new one for me.

 

I'll admit, the first and only place I've gotten R/O from so far seemed a bit shady to me..thought I was going to get Yakuza'd in their basement for sure. I've been dealing with an LFS in the city for the last week who's got an extremely high reputation, their establishment is the best I've seen in NYC for sure.

 

I'm making a trip their today where I plan on re-stocking my R/O. There's no shot in hell they'd have sub par water.

[Deleted User 8]

A TDS meter. They are fairly cheap. Some RO/DI units come with them inline. They need calibration, so spring for some calibration solution.

 

If you are serious about this hobby make your own salt water with your own produced RO/DI water. It will be cheaper in the long run and you don't have to worry about getting Yakuza'd! I would bet money your "RO" water is crap. Even the best stores with the best reputation can let some things slip by. LFS go through employees like crazy and you never know when you are getting a trainee.

 

http://spectrapure.com/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System $124.99

 

IMO, an RO/DI unit is the first thing anyone getting into reefing should get. Before a tank, stand, lights, etc etc.

 

Buzz