Corals Growing, but losing color?

[Reef_Ninja]

Okay, so I've noticed that for the most part, my corals have been mostly healthy. By healthy, I mean they don't die and they grow, with good PE.

 

But Ive noticed that most of the corals I get, start losing their color. Not all my corals do this, but I noticed that its a wide variety.............Ive got Zoas, Acros, and favias that do this

 

But it's funny, because some corals I recieved that were clearly bleached (a chalice and a brain coral), have actually healed.

Ca - 440

Alk - 3.18

Phosp - 0

Trates/trites/Amm - 0

Temp - 79

SG - 1.025

 

Reef Radiance DM-155 (Blue Channel 50%, Red Channel 30%) Running 7 hrs/day

 

What can cause corals to lighten up? Should I increase intesity/length of light cycle?

[gus6464]

Was that alk taken at night when the lights were out?

 

What's your magnesium and potassium?

[clownfitch]

Are you sure on that Alkalinity level? Is that given in meq/L or dkh??

[Reef_Ninja]

Alk is 3.18 mEq using Salifert. Mg 1350.

[Reef_Ninja]

You know Ive never had this problem before, with any of my other tanks in the past. And after spending alot of time reading this morning, the only significant difference I can think of is the salt that I use. Im currently using IO (and using lots of 2 part and Mg additives), whereas before I always use Reef Crystals (and needed much less 2 part and Mg). I think Im going to make the switch, I have a feeling Im missing out on more trace elements than I thought.

 

On that track, does anyone possibly have a sheet or something that lists the content of IO vs RC?

[clownfitch]

You know Ive never had this problem before, with any of my other tanks in the past. And after spending alot of time reading this morning, the only significant difference I can think of is the salt that I use. Im currently using IO (and using lots of 2 part and Mg additives), whereas before I always use Reef Crystals (and needed much less 2 part and Mg). I think Im going to make the switch, I have a feeling Im missing out on more trace elements than I thought.

 

On that track, does anyone possibly have a sheet or something that lists the content of IO vs RC?

 

I have seen one online somewhere. I will look for it. how often and what percentage are you water changing? I bet you are onto something. You may need to increase your water change frequency. Your tank may be using up the trace elements quicker than you are replacing them.

 

http://www.thatpetplace.com/salt-mix-guide

[Reef_Ninja]

Im changing out 5 gallons every week or two. 25 gallon cube with 10 gallon sump (probably about 30 gallons total). The WCs definately diminish my Mg levels, which makes me think about the other trace elements.

[atrox]

Are you feeding the corals?

[CronicReefer]

You could try dosing with kent essential elements if you feel you are losing trace elements. I use reef crystals and compared to IO it has higher levels of trace elements, especially calc and mag.

[metrokat]

Tank is ULNS. Unless it is your intent to run a low nutrient system, the corals are starving. Phosphates should be about 0.02 and nitrates should be a couple of points also. Feed coral foods and they should respond favorably.

Phosp - 0

Trates/trites/Amm - 0

[Reef_Ninja]

Tank is ULNS. Unless it is your intent to run a low nutrient system, the corals are starving. Phosphates should be about 0.02 and nitrates should be a couple of points also. Feed coral foods and they should respond favorably.

 

 

I understand that people like to increase Phosph and trates................but there is research for both raising phoph and trate vs keeping both at null.

 

I know its silly to ask for help in a thread, and say that I disagree.................but I disagree : ) Especially when Ive never had this problem before. The only difference between now and before is that Im currently using LEDs instead of T5s and the IO.

[hey]

I understand that people like to increase Phosph and trates................but there is research for both raising phoph and trate vs keeping both at null.

 

I know its silly to ask for help in a thread, and say that I disagree.................but I disagree : ) Especially when Ive never had this problem before. The only difference between now and before is that Im currently using LEDs instead of T5s and the IO.

 

I would have to disagree, lps really only keep color for me when I am not at a ultra low nutrient state. And the color comes back slowly in my experience which is a downer. I don't keep sps so I can't comment there but many people have difficulties keeping mixed reefs looking spectacular for this very reason, something is out of its ideal environment while others are thriving in theirs.

[atrox]

This zero numbers trend is getting old. Seems all the younger hobbyists have bought into this super targeted numbers game. Let the tank get a little dirty, and target feed. Id put money on the issue being resolved.

[Reef_Ninja]

This zero numbers trend is getting old. Seems all the younger hobbyists have bought into this super targeted numbers game. Let the tank get a little dirty, and target feed. Id put money on the issue being resolved.

 

 

I dont chase numbers, that's just where they happen to be. But I do pay attention to my tank. Overfeeding for me has led to cyano and excess algea. I still target feed my corals 3-4 times a week, I dose phyto, and feed fish regularly.

 

I get it, reefing is often a subjective experience, with exception to the standard laws that apply.

 

But if you think my approach its getting old, feel free to step out of the thread. Please, Im only looking for constructive advice.

[Nano sapiens]

Unfortunately, the question of whether '0' readings for N03 and P04 is not quite so cut and dry. Some tanks have these '0' readings and the corals look great, some need to read above this minimum testable threshold to have colorful corals.

 

Best we can do for the OP's issues IMO is to say here's what *may* be contributing to the lack of coloration: Low nutrients, recent switch to LED lighting and possibly the salt...and then look at each issue:

 

Low nutrients: Try feeding more (Edit: looks like you are feeding enough)

 

LED Lighting: Allowing the corals to slowly adjust to the new lighting? Correct spectrum? Intensity not too high (bleaching) and/or photoperiod too long?

 

Salt: RC is definitely different from IO and I mix the two 50/50 (personal preference). From RC's webpage:

 

• Extra Calcium to help ensure the growth of large and small polyp stony corals as well as coralline algae
• Extra Trace Elements to provide an additional measure of vital nutrients
• Extra Vitamins to ensure vigorous growth and survival of corals, anemones and other invertebrates in a captive environment
• Metal Detoxifier - to neutralize traces of heavy metal often present in domestic water supplies.

[Reef_Ninja]

Yeah, Im leaning toward lighting and salt mix. Should I try to make the lighting cycle longer, increase intensity?

 

I want to say these corals are fairly acclimated to the LEDs..........or atleast had enough time to get there. I set the tank up with these LEDs in April.........

[Nano sapiens]

Do you run 7hrs of 'full intensity' or do you have a ramp-up period before and after? If your lighting is intense, 4-5 hrs of 'all lights on' is plenty to stimulate pigment production. Of note is that LEDs typically have more of the 'blue' spectrum used in photosynthesis, thus PAR can be lower than T5s or Halides, but PUR can be greater.

 

Pics of the corals?

[Reef_Ninja]

Do you run 7hrs of 'full intensity' or do you have a ramp-up period before and after? If your lighting is intense, 4-5 hrs of 'all lights on' is plenty to stimulate pigment production. Of note is that LEDs typically have more of the 'blue' spectrum used in photosynthesis, thus PAR can be lower than T5s or Halides, but PUR can be greater.

 

Pics of the corals?

 

 

Ill post pics when I get home................Im goofing at at work now. : )

 

I run the LEDs 30% red channel, 50% Blue Channel. They turn on at 1PM and off at 8PM....no ramping.

 

Not understanding the difference between PUR and PAR?...

[metrokat]

I understand that people like to increase Phosph and trates................but there is research for both raising phoph and trate vs keeping both at null.

 

I know its silly to ask for help in a thread, and say that I disagree.................but I disagree : ) Especially when Ive never had this problem before. The only difference between now and before is that Im currently using LEDs instead of T5s and the IO.

It's not really that simple. If you'd like to keep the levels at zero or near zero, it can still be done without starving the corals. You feed like it is going out of style and do a large water change. As an example. Also, Research exists to prove dirty tanks have thriving corals also, i suppose it is just a matter of which approach one takes to suit their husbandry methods.

 

NanoTopia on here runs an exceptional ULNS. My guess would be that the supplements you might need are not being added. Her corals are colorful.

[Nano sapiens]

Not understanding the difference between PUR and PAR?...

 

Very important distinction.

 

PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation): All visible lightwaves between 400 - 700nm (deep violet to deep red)

 

PUR (Photosynthetically Usable Radiation): Only those lighwaves that are used in photosynthesis.

 

Corals are adapted to use the blue wavelengths (violet to blue-green). A small amount of red is fine, but too much (especially too soon), they can't handle and this can cause bleaching. Ideally, you just need enough red to help render colors to suit your taste and usually this is provided by the white lighting (cool white alone has the least red and red LED supplementation is often used).

 

If you tank is shallow, 30% 'Red' may be a bit much (depending on how strong the emitters are and how many are in the array).

[farkwar]

Well low nutrient water content and heavy feeding are not mutually exclusive.

 

Hey is correct though, hungry softies and LPS may disagree with SPS growth and coloration.

 

 

 

I dont chase numbers, that's just where they happen to be. But I do pay attention to my tank. Overfeeding for me has led to cyano and excess algea. I still target feed my corals 3-4 times a week, I dose phyto, and feed fish regularly.

 

 

I dont even know what my numbers are...

 

Phyto is going to really spur green algae growth. Its high or almost all CHO.

 

Try feeding protein based foods, meat. And skim the heck out of it. I see little to no algae increase from protein feeds(Zeo tank). Carbs CHO?, boom whole tank turns green overnight.

 

Cyano is going to grow where you have poop. Remove the poop, cyano goes away.

 

Lots of good advice up in the thread, I wouldnt chase poster away for stating their opinions and experiences. Youre the one asking for help.

[Nano sapiens]

Excellent coral coloration can be a major hurdle and certainly requires time and patience to achieve a desired result. It's especially difficult in a true mixed reef shallow tank where the various corals often have different lighting/flow/nutrient needs.

[farkwar]

Excellent coral coloration can be a major hurdle and certainly requires time and patience to achieve a desired result. It's especially difficult in a true mixed reef shallow tank where the various corals often have different lighting/flow/nutrient needs.

 

Again, QFT.

[Reef_Ninja]

Well, out of the 44 LEDs on this unit, only 5 are red/cyan. Maybe Ill increase the Blue by 10% and drop the white/red channel by 10%. Tank is 18" deep, with the light roughly 10" ATWL.

[atrox]

Wasn't trying to get you're bloomers in a bunch, you asked for help in coloring up you're corals and I offered a tried and more importantly true method. You can skin the cat how ever you want too. That being said nutrients come in more than just poop and food. Put some pics up of you're corals, maybe we can offer better insight as to what colors you are referring to in particular.