venturalvn Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Here's the basic frame Here's the main stress point: Here's the weight distribution following the support structure: And for reference: I'm not really sure at what points this stand could fail, and why 1x4 isn't used more often for tanks? Does the wood run a risk of splintering under the weight? Are people just overly cautious with the risk of failure? Has this been tried and failed long term? Link to comment
gus6464 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 That will be fine. I have a 50g tank on a DIY stand I made out of 3/4" birch ply with no support skeleton. All the edges are mitered including the top held together with titebond II and nails. It's holding over 700lbs right now with 0 bowing. People tend to overbuild stands for no reason. Link to comment
jack1978 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Are you going to skin it? I wouldn't trust the 1x alone....I'd worry about it wanting to twist. Link to comment
Chris! Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Depending on what size tank your looking to support in reality even 1x4 is overkill. As gus said and showed above 3/4" ply is plenty if built properly, and for many nanos especially if you wanted a "feel good" support 1x1 would even be more then plenty Link to comment
mechishark7 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 Going off of what jack said, 1x4 has little torsional strength, it's strength is with its grain which runs one way, the length of the wood. With that, if the design does not take that tendency into account, the frame may twist, and break and then so will your tank. Plywood is comprised of layers that run perpendicular to the layers next to them, this gives the wood good strength in all directions, not just in one direction. This allows plywood stands to use less material and more simple designs, as mentioned by someone above, than stands built of regular wood. So to answer your question, you might be able to build that stand, and it might work fine, I know I wouldn't get much sleep with that stand supporting my tank. It looks like you put in plenty of effort to draw up those "load diagrams," I would just use plywood instead. If you don't have the tools to cut plywood, Home Depot will cut a full 4' x8' of plywood into as many pieces as you need, believe me, I've stood there for an hot and a half while the guy cut everything for me and they didn't charge for any of the cuts. Just curious, what size tank is this that you are planning a stand for? Link to comment
venturalvn Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Hey guys, thanks for all the replies. This is for a 40 breeder, and the stand is 40" tall. I am going to skin the short sides with 1/2" plywood. I will use a 3/4 ply on the top of the stand. I added corner brackets for the wide sides, as shown below (sorry for potato quality): At this point it sounds like I should also skin the back with plywood and just cut out some areas for cords, equipment, etc? Link to comment
gus6464 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 40B is nothing weight wise. You could have done it with 3/4" ply only. Link to comment
andiok Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Hey guys, thanks for all the replies. This is for a 40 breeder, and the stand is 40" tall. I am going to skin the short sides with 1/2" plywood. I will use a 3/4 ply on the top of the stand. I added corner brackets for the wide sides, as shown below (sorry for potato quality): At this point it sounds like I should also skin the back with plywood and just cut out some areas for cords, equipment, etc? i would remove the front brackets. no real need for those. the frame of the top stand will be enough especially if your going to put a 3/4" plywood on top. I would skin the sides and back with 1/4" sanded plywood for a better stain and finish. the 40g like gus says too, its not going to have that much load and the frame looks sturdy enough Link to comment
aquageek Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Stand looks solid to me. You don't need to use 2x4s on a tank of that size. I'm no structural engineer, but seeing the kind of weight that people put on those store bought stands that are all MDF, I think that your stand is more than enough. One thing though, where are you putting your doors? With the braces on the front it may be tricky to get a nice sump in there, if you plan on using a sump that is. I suppose you could make the side panels removable and slide a sump in that way. Looks good though. Link to comment
venturalvn Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 i would remove the front brackets. no real need for those. the frame of the top stand will be enough especially if your going to put a 3/4" plywood on top. I would skin the sides and back with 1/4" sanded plywood for a better stain and finish. the 40g like gus says too, its not going to have that much load and the frame looks sturdy enoughI don't know if I'll skin the back - I kind of wanted to keep it open, so maybe I'll keep those brackets there. I'm assuming if I only do like a half skin on the bottom of the rear side it will still help stabilize? I don't really feel like going to get more plywood... Stand looks solid to me. You don't need to use 2x4s on a tank of that size. I'm no structural engineer, but seeing the kind of weight that people put on those store bought stands that are all MDF, I think that your stand is more than enough. One thing though, where are you putting your doors? With the braces on the front it may be tricky to get a nice sump in there, if you plan on using a sump that is. I suppose you could make the side panels removable and slide a sump in that way. Looks good though. The door will be the entire front panel, which will be removable in full. I knew it would be a small PITA with the brackets on the front side...maybe I'll take off the bottom 2... Link to comment
NorthGaHillbilly Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 As everyone's said, if your not looking at 100+ gallons of water, you don't need to look at a 2x4. I build furniture on a daily basis, and the weight that even 1/2" ply can hold is beyond what any nano tank can dish out. Those bottom braces ate going to be a huge pain in the long run, the more access you can have theverything better. Link to comment
andiok Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I don't know if I'll skin the back - I kind of wanted to keep it open, so maybe I'll keep those brackets there. I'm assuming if I only do like a half skin on the bottom of the rear side it will still help stabilize? I don't really feel like going to get more plywood... The door will be the entire front panel, which will be removable in full. I knew it would be a small PITA with the brackets on the front side...maybe I'll take off the bottom 2... skining or not the back is not the point here. the point is the frustration, you're going to have even get the food out of the stand with those brackets, never mind a sump... but thats your stand and your life so enjoy it mate Link to comment
Horerczy Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I think that's a gorgeous stand. Every one of those braces is superflous though. I saw one stand that had a frame like that where instead of skinning the body he made a false skin that covered the front and sides that could be pulled away in one piece to get to the sump from all angles. Link to comment
venturalvn Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 I think that's a gorgeous stand. Every one of those braces is superflous though. I saw one stand that had a frame like that where instead of skinning the body he made a false skin that covered the front and sides that could be pulled away in one piece to get to the sump from all angles. It's funny you say that, because here's how the build is going, including removable front panel! Link to comment
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