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Coral Vue Hydros

How do I treat brown jelly disease with iodine?


Fishgirl2393

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I see the attempt to change water, thats good. But in light of the hesitancy to thoroughly flush out the system, your real source of phosphate issues (not the feeding, common mistake on where to attack phosphates when a sandbed is involved) you need to change to a bare bottom tank. Doesnt matter if you dont like the look, you arent able to care for one long term and its killing your tank because its leaking phosphate more than any daily feeding, its accumulative.

 

You need to change 100%, not 90% of the water and replace it into a bare bottom tank with your same rocks. no recycle will occur, the rock is enough to filter.

 

Change 100% of the water if you are going to stay sandbed, and, dont kick it up when you pour back in, get creative. hold the fish in a container while you clean out the tank, then match only temp and salinity to put it back in, it w be fine. Consider owning no fish until the coral health is verified, fish prevent you from making decisive tank save changes. Fish are often put in first or with a group of corals destined to die due to tank planning, it should be opposite. fish belong in proven, time worthy tanks only. You can be more decisive without them.

 

 

 

I think its possible you are going to either continue to lose coral, or the fish, by taking this tank indecisively as far as it can go, its the limit now where some higher life has to die. A year is the predicted timeframe most nanos manage a sandbed before OTS starts to kick in due to noncare.

 

Sure, some get lucky and go 2 or three years, but do you see a lot of 4 yr old nanos on here at all? of the ones we have, I can show you several deliberate actions they take to manage input into the bed, and then retention in the bed that has taken place. Paul B's 40 year old tank is a great example, both of these hardfast rules for sandbed use are met in his tank (reverse UGF is one, periodic full cleaning is the other)

 

 

 

Then, we start being reactive (not proactive) to that condition and the typical spiral comes. Simply knowing that rule, and reversing our care methods and design in week 1, changes every iffy nano into "how much and what kind" of coral do you want it to pump out.

 

The feeding here is not excellent, its baseline. The exporting here is baseline, not exceptional. Big tank keepers who dont change lots of water have specific design and $$ elements in their system where they dont skimp on feeding, or export. Riding the fence last 12-18 mos w small reefs.

 

 

Removing the sand bed amplifies your water change percentages. The reason why I have a 9 year old deep sand bed in a tiny tank w no probs is every move is decisive, bigtime, not kid gloves. Water changes are like a hurricane in my tank, a full upwelling and removal of sandbed nutrients, commonly.

 

The full prediction for your tank if you leave in the sandbed, and continue water changes less than 50-80% any time you do them which has to be increased, is continued algae battles making you have to work so hard to manually remove them you'll hate it-- or more water stripping which will keep these coral probs going since you are going to have to strip a lot, and feed less, to compensate for a eutrophic sandbed.

 

Your degree of success with this tank, and actually sticking a red brain to the rock via its own skeleton instead of a frag plug, it a decisive move of one sort or many. Your next thread has to contain a decisive and sustained move that went on months, or, this is already the cause of that thread

 

:)

B

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I am happy to say that I have stopped the BJD (which may have been caused by some sort of tank issue as discussed above) finally. It ended up killing the ric (green) overnight and killed my new red mushroom too ( :( ) but I have finally stabilized the tank and everything else (including other mushrooms) looks great! I have also set up a quarantine tank for corals now and will probably quarantine ALL new corals for a week or two before adding them to the reef (either that or do some sort of dip) because I really don't want to deal with that again, and while it might have been from a tank condition (initially), I know that brown jelly disease (the cilliated protozoans) was the cause of the corals actually dying.

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