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New IM Fusion 30L- Rookie


EaglesNest

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I’m starting my first SW tank after having a few freshwater tanks for upwards of 10 years or so. I don’t have friends into SW, so I’m counting heavily on you guys to lead me down the right paths, don’t let me down.
This is what I have purchased thus far after reading a few books but specifically your threads:

 

Tank: Innovative Marine Fusion 30 gallon long (36L x 15W x 13H)
Stand: Innovative Marine Stand for Fusion 30L
Sand: 40lbs of Carib-Sea Arog-Alive (2-20lb bags)

Powerhead: Vortech MP10 ES - Hydor Koralia Nano 425 (for mixing Saltwater)

Heater: Colbalt Neo Therm 100w – Eheim Jagar 75w (for mixing saltwater)
Filtration: All in one unit with 2 media baskets
Equipment: Refractometer, API Saltwater Master Test Kit
Salt: Instant Ocean RO/DI Unit: BRS 4 Stage Value Plus 75GP

 

Still Needed:

Live Rock (20 ish lbs), Lighting, ATO, Controller, Skimmer and Media Reactor.

This weekend I will purchase the live rock, make my saltwater and get started. Here are my initial questions:

  1. Lighting Recommendation: Keeping in mind that this tank is shallow (13 inches high). I need a LED lighting fixture that I can attach to the tank that doesn’t extend more than 4 inches high due to family pictures already on the wall. (Compromise with wife for getting that space to place the tankJ). I plan to start with a few fish then add “beginner”corals (Mushrooms, Zoanthids, Soft Coral). I want to get a fixture that I can use if I venture to more advanced corals later, so, I don’t have to buy new lighting. I’ve seen: AquaticLife EDGE LEDs and 20000K Reef Spectrum-XB. Any good?
  2. Skimmer: How long into the cycling can I wait to add a skimmer and your recommendation? I’m leaning toward: IM Ghost Skimmer or Tunze 9002.
  3. ?? I think I can wait on the other items…right?
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GREAT start, you may want to look into LED's by Reef Breeders

 

I've used a Reef Breeders fixture before and it worked fine, but their fixtures are a little more bulky than the higher end ones so you might have a hard time sticking to that 4" above tank rule. I would look into the thinner fixtures like a maxxspect razor or Nano Box which was mentioned above. My main concern about the light would be coverage. Make sure when you are looking at lights that the spread is wide enough at 4 inches above the water to cover the bottom of your tank.

 

I wouldn't add the skimmer until you add living things. And even then there is no crucial point where you really need to add the skimmer since many run without them. Haven't had either of those but the 9002 seems to have more positive reviews and sentiment.

 

Media reactor can wait. With the IM AIOs you have media baskets to put chemical media in. A media reactor probably does a better job of this so this might be something to add if you feel you need more help with nutrient reduction once the tank is running.

 

ATO is only necessary if you can't top-off yourself regularly. I travel so I need it for those times but I would have one even if I didn't, just for the convenience. I would get this whenever you can - no rush.

 

Controller will probably cover lighting schedule and temperature for you at first I'm assuming. Lights can be turned on and off manually if you are around until you get a controller/timer. Temp is more necessary once you have living things as the thermostats on the heaters themselves aren't reliable. It's not that they don't work they just aren't designed to measure temp and adjust as necessary. They just turn on and heat to wherever you set them to. So if your house varies in temp your tank will too. Not a huge deal during cycle but important after.

 

Tony

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Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. The standard IO does not contain adequate calcium, Mg, and other trace elements needed for good coral growth.

 

I'm not knocking standard IO because it's great for a fish only tank, but not for reef tanks. Also, the Aquatic life lights are designed for both fresh and saltwater tanks. They have barely adequate spectrums for both tanks but not great for either. Also, the fresh water spectrum will cause excessive algae growth in a reef tank due to the red portion of the spectrum.

 

If you can afford it, stick with NanoBox, Razor, Radion, or Aqua illumination. A less expensive option would be "Current Orbit Marine" LEDS. They are an established company with a good reputation but their lights are a step down from the big 4 i listed and in the case of aquarium lighting, you really "get what you pay for".

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Above all others go with a Tunze Nano Auto Top Off. I have used this system on multiple tanks, including my current (20 Fusion) and I love this thing. Easy to set up, and works great!

 

For lighting you are going to have an issue with being 4 inches off the water. Can you compromise and possibly move up the pictures? That's what I had to do, the wife didn't want things in front of the pictures, so I just moved them up for her. Lighting I would recommend would be Nano Box, or Radion.

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Yeah, It looks like I'll be moving pictures around to get a decent light on this tank. I originally thought I would get lights from Buildmyleds or Edge LED which sat directly on the tank. Can I get away with one Nano Box light for this 36 in long tank?

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I've heard good things about buildmyleds and they do sit right on the tank so I wouldn't eliminate that as an option unless coverage doesn't work for your tank. The guy that makes the Nanoboxes is a member here on the forums with username davefason. You could probably send him a message with the info and I'm sure he'll help you out.

 

Tony

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Tony,

Let's go back to me being a rookie in the game:)...."dosing using two parts kalk"?? I want to do what is best and/or primarily the easiest. So, would that be RC?

 

BTW after buying my dry rock (BRS or LFS)...can I rinse it and place it in the tank and start the curing/ cycling with something like Bio Spiro or is it best to drop it in my Brute container w/ pump/ saltwater for 4 weeks? I've read and seen both. Thanks in advance!

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I had good success with Microbacter7. I dosed it in my 10g QT for a yellow tang and had almost no cycle at all. Definitely a lot quicker than waiting week and weeks.

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Tony, Let's go back to me being a rookie in the game:)...."dosing using two parts kalk"?? I want to do what is best and/or primarily the easiest. So, would that be RC? BTW after buying my dry rock (BRS or LFS)...can I rinse it and place it in the tank and start the curing/ cycling with something like Bio Spiro or is it best to drop it in my Brute container w/ pump/ saltwater for 4 weeks? I've read and seen both. Thanks in advance!

I don't know much about kalk but using Reef Crystals or any "reef salt" is what you need which avoids having to mess with anything else and produces the same result.

 

Rock is tricky and you will hear a ton of different perspectives because there are a ton of factors and some of those factors go unnoticed. If you are using dry rock (white and clean with no existing life) you will need to start the cycle with something like bio spira or microbacter7 and that should work fine. Just remember that the bacteria are alive and need something to eat so throw some fish food in there to feed that nitrogen cycle.

 

If you are getting dry rock there is always a risk of it containing phosphates and releasing them into your tank for a few months causing more algae issues. Dry rock from known sources like BRS or reef cleaners has been tested in the past by hobbyists and you can google something like "brs reefsaver rock phosphate leaching" and see what people have to say. It's a pretty widely shared opinion that BRS Pukani will definitely leach phosphates if you don't soak for a while and people seem pretty sure that the dry rock from ReefCleaners does not leach any phosphate.

 

That said, phosphate won't crash your tank and will eventually go away it can just be a pain for a while. If you don't want to deal with this then you can always go with live rock. It really just depends how quickly you want to get this tank running.

 

I could probably write another 1000 words on rock in this hobby and my experiences with it but if you have specific questions let me know. Feel free to send a PM anytime

 

Tony

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Anyone have feedback on the Innovative Marine Dual LED Strip Lighting system?? I'm struggling with lights for this tank with only an 8 in clearance above.

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Anyone have feedback on the Innovative Marine Dual LED Strip Lighting system?? I'm struggling with lights for this tank with only an 8 in clearance above.

 

I have used them and did like them while they worked. Had an issue with the built in control switch and decided to change my led lighting to Finnex Ray 2 36inch LED lighting. Perfect fit for your aquarium and they come in pure blue actinic, red, white, or white/actinic combo. These will certainly grow soft corals and LPS but not support SPS corals. The picture of my aquarium have Finnex lighting on them. Super slim at .5 inches.

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Thanks for responding "Egginis", I have been in awe of the picture since I've been researching info on this tank. Are you still using the 3 black 8 watt IM Skkye Lights on it as well?

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As far as the salt, many reef tanks swear by IO and dose two part daily (calcium and alkalinity). If you decide to have a lot of stony corals, salt mixes high in Ca, Alk, and Magnesium, like RC and Red Sea Coral Pro, are going to require daily dosing anyway (albeit not as much).

 

The one advantage to IO is that it does not contain any organic vitamins, which some people don't like in their salt. Whatever the choice, people have had success with all the popular brands. Just keep an eye on your levels and keep them consistent.

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I use IO and only need to dose 2 part once a month or so. I don't have any SPS though and about half my corals are LPS and half are softies which don't need dosing, only water changes. Also I do more water changes than most since I have seahorses which are dirty. If you plan to have SPS then I would use Reef Crystals or Red Sea Pro.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, I finally have light, ATO and good water readings. What's Next....CUC?....Coral?....or Fish? Also, I'm currently running the stock sponge media in both baskets. Are they "Ok" or what should go in both or one of the baskets?

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I would say a fish. You could run bags of media in the baskets with some filter floss. You will want gfo and carbon or a lot of water changes for the tank. You could also use a chemipure for filtration instead of gfo and carbon.

 

I would add the cucumber when you have algae.

 

 

.

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attachicon.gif342 (2).jpg

 

This is what I came up with in regards to an aquascape. Feedback please...

 

Damn, that's really great IMO.

But if it were me, maybe I'd at another "bridge" to connect the existing "bridges" or have a tall tonga branch in that spot.

Where did you buy that rockscape? I'm gonna buy some rocks for my 30 gallon cube and really digging what you got going on.

Thanks!

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Thanks Dave, I actually already changed the rockscape to make another "bridge" in about the same spot you recommended. I wanted to create flat platform for a "center piece coral" about in the middle. Don't know what yet. I put the rockscape together myself after buying the rocks at my LFS. I broke them up and started playing with the setup. I did create a psuedo-tank out of cardboard to get the spacing right.

post-85946-0-72748900-1415567875_thumb.jpg

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