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11 gallon tank advise


shark565

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Hello, everybody. I have set up the tank,several hours ago. I used water from the sink with water conditioner, i put some bacteria culture and macro elements. The boy from the LFS said that in that way there should be no problems with the water. I bought 1kg of bulk reef salt. At the moment I am trying to make the salinity higher. I have put some more sand.There is active carbon in the filter. The oceanic dead rock should be in tomorrow as I ordered it from the LFS. There are some photos:

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah106/Suit565/IMG_3672_zps4119ce33.jpg

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah106/Suit565/IMG_3673_zps145110d9.jpg

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah106/Suit565/IMG_3675_zps3cba014f.jpg

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I used water from the sink with water conditioner... The boy from the LFS said that in that way there should be no problems with the water.

Well... just as long as some boy who's trying to sell you something says it should be alright.

 

You shouldn't need to dose trace elements; and the bacteria culture has freshwater fish on the label (freshwater bacteria is different than marine bacteria). Plus you should add the bacteria after you put in the rock.

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I have some trust in the LFS ,beacause there are only good opinions about them in the our forum. The rock will be in tommorow , so i am going to put the bacteria again. On the back of the bottle , i read that it is for saltwater and freshwater. I put like a 2-3 drops of the trace elements. The salinity is okay ,now. I can translate the back of the back of the bacteria culture bottle , if you want.

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What should be the first sign of the cycle? Should i add fish food or something to break to ammonia? When the first algie invasion should start?

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What should be the first sign of the cycle?

There needs to be a source of ammonia for the cycle to start. In most cases, the source is usually live rock. However, with clean (organic free) dry rock, you usually have to provide another source. This ammonia should be detectable as there won't be enough denitrifying bacteria available to process it into nitrite. The first sign that the cycle is actually becoming established is a rise in nitrate. The cycle will be complete (for the existing bio-load) when you can detect nitrate, but ammonia and nitrite are no longer detectable.

 

Should i add fish food or something to break to ammonia?

Reread this thread. I believe that we've discussed this already.

 

When the first algie invasion should start?

Normally we introduce algae via live rock, but it can also be introduced by coral frags or even your cleanup crew. If conditions are favorable with light and nutrients (possibly in the form of ammonia, phosphate, nitrate, or organics), there will be an algae bloom.

 

You typically see a diatom bloom before other algae blooms. They are fed by silicate (usually introduced with sand or rock).

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I suppose that you could. It's been done before. If I were doing it, I'd shoot for a specific gravity of 1.020. You can make it saltier before you add any inverts.

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So, i need to lower my gravity in the tank to 1.020,then add the fish. How should i acclimate it? Put it in a bucket and start adding some salt every day?

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i bought a molly, today and acclimatized it for several hours. It is now swimming in the tank. I think It doesn't like the flow ,but it seems to be fine. Its colors are nice and it is swimming looking for food.

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What do i need to keep SPS ? My light is going to be good enough i guess, I planning to buy a small wave maker around 1000-1200l/h ,beacause my flow is high only in the left part of the tank.. I found a protein skimmer for nano reef on a low price, but the equipment in the tank is going to be very much and will take much place. I am thinking of buying a new tank 25 sm (length)/35 sm (dept)/25sm (height), the dept is 35 sm to have 10 sm for box filter on the back and hide my equipment. What do you think ?

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What do i need to keep SPS ?

You should probably do some more reading: http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=googlecse#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=What%20do%20I%20need%20to%20keep%20SPS

 

Generally speaking, you need good flow, good lighting, excellent water quality, stable parameters (alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium), and food that is suitable for SPS. Achieving these requirements can be trickier than keeping soft coral with some LPS (as we have been discussing). This often involves frequent testing, dosing two part solution (plus magnesium), nutrient (nitrate and phosphate) export mechanisms, and regular feeding. Many beginners start with soft corals, then graduate to stoney corals.

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I saw the wavemaker in one of our LFS. I think it is Chinese. I am tottaly going to start with LPS and soft. I found a great birdnest coral frag offer in the local forum. That is why i am asking. If i move everything now to a new tank is the cycle going to start from the beggining?

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If i move everything now to a new tank is the cycle going to start from the beggining?
No, but it isn't that far along yet. Are you monitoring the ammonia level?
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The moly died on the second day. I guess the flow made it weak and the salinity sped up the death. I removed it though. I put some fish food every couple of days. I still haven't tested my water yet, I had some personal problems. I will add some food today and get it tested on Saturday. I have been reading a lot these days. The light is probably going to be there on 19 november. I am planing to make the tank maxi mini farm with may be a trumpet coral. I am keeping the salinity and the temperature and waiting for the light.

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Can i keep only bubble tip anemone in the tank? Should i buy skimmer for only bubble tip anemone tank? I read somewhere that they like dirtier water with some nutrients in it. Is it a problem if i frag it and have two new individuals? Are they going to start chemical war?

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Also, don't try to frag a BTA. However, if you had room for them, they wouldn't be waging chemical war on each other (as like species will coexist). Besides, they rely on stinging their competition.

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