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11 gallon tank advise


shark565

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I have a stupid question. I live near the sea. Can i actually use something from it?

You can but it is dangerous because you don't know what could be in it, like it could be polluted

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Our sea has a lower salinity than the reef. That might be obvious. Some of the co-reefers take a shrimp or a hermit crab then gently rise the salinity to the reef and then add it to their tanks. I am not saying that is a good thing. That is why i am asking. I might only use the shells from our sea snails for a home for my future hermit. We call them "rapan". Actually a few years ago i was collecting some of them for food when i picked up one there was a hermit in there. I was a bit scared. I know some about the species over there but i was really surprised. Lol

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Could be pollution, pests, disease, and/or possible legal restrictions. Collecting away from the beach is usually less polluted.

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Can i keep a rock flower anemone too? Is there going to be a problem if there are two anemones from different species in one tank (maxi mini and rock flower)? Are there sea stars for the nano reefs?

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Yes, (while they shouldn't necessarily touch) you can keep both a Rock Flower Anemone and a Mini Carpet Anemone.

 

Unfortunately, nano tanks aren't ideal for most starfish. However, micro brittle starfish are fairly common hitchhikers (and are an excellent addition to the cleanup crew).

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You'll need an overflow. Small tanks are often made of thin glass that can crack when drilled, and HOB overflows can fail and cause a flood. As you can tell, I'm not that excited about adding an overflow to a smallish tank. Of course, you'd also need a fuge light.

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So, It is better if I don't set it up. I don't want to flood my condo after all. The guy who is making my tank makes sumps,overflow and refugiums.I might ask him if he can drill my tank. I want to set it up to put the heater and may be add a DIY skimmer in there. Can I that tank someway to help the new one? The guy in the LFS said that i should put some sand in the hang on as a biological filter media. Should i do that? I have coral skeletons which i used for decorations in my FW but i haven't used them for years. I don't want to put them as decorations in my tank. Can i use them for something?

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Can I that tank someway to help the new one?

The best uses for it that I can come up with, would be either a quarantine tank or a reservoir for an auto top off.

 

The guy in the LFS said that i should put some sand in the hang on as a biological filter media. Should i do that?

No, I wouldn't. The sand and live rock in the display is all the biological filter you need. Having sand in the filter would serve no beneficial purpose.

 

I have coral skeletons which i used for decorations in my FW but i haven't used them for years. I don't want to put them as decorations in my tank. Can i use them for something?

Put them on an end-table, or use them as a paperweight.
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How the auto top off is made? How it works?

 

My tank is still not ready so there shouldn't be a problem to be drilled. If the drilling is made professional can I have a problem with it?

 

Must the light be special or it must be only very powerful? I am talking about the fuge. Can the fuge be harmful for the tank? There are some schemes:post-82987-0-01366800-1412230806_thumb.jpg

post-82987-0-28539800-1412230861_thumb.jpg

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An auto top off is just a reservoir with a pump in it. It supplies freshwater (RO/DI) to make up for evaporation. The amount of water can be controlled by one or more of the following: a timer (for a dosing pump), a series of float switches, a float valve, a pressure valve, or other sensor. Do a search and you'll find many threads on the subject.

 

A drilled tank's overflow will be less likely to fail than a hang on back overflow. However, like I said, thin glass can crack when drilled. But if you really want to use that tank as a refugium, then maybe it will be worth the risk.

 

I feel that the light should be bright. It can benefit from some red color spectrum, but a special fuge light isn't necessary.

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I modified my post the schemes are on the upper one. The light in the fuge must be kept on all the time right? The fuge is not going to be visible. I like the idea beacause to me a fuge mean more flow and less equipment in my tank. Also more bio filtration. Today I will go to this guy's shop and ask about the tank and the drilling.

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For the ATO you can use like a bottle of water or something like that, there are loads around

 

I modified my post the schemes are on the upper one. The light in the fuge must be kept on all the time right? The fuge is not going to be visible. I like the idea beacause to me a fuge mean more flow and less equipment in my tank. Also more bio filtration. Today I will go to this guy's shop and ask about the tank and the drilling.
There is a poll on here about the fuge lights, last time I checked it was like 65% had the light on opposite to the main tank and 35% had it on 24 hours. It's up to you, I prefer it at night to counter the ph swing
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Must the input tube be underwater or the water line? The tank is going to be 25 sm high. How many sm the water line must be?
The return line should have a siphon break in it near the waterline. This could mean that the return nozzle is just below the waterline, or a hole is made in the line just below the water's surface. This prevents a back siphon from flooding the sump/fuge when power is cut to the return pump.
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If the refugium is behind the tank. Can i use 2 pumps around 500-600 l/h one of input one for output in that way if the electricity stops. The system stops nothing goes in nothing goes out. And i think it is going to be easier to set up. Must the barriers in the fuge be glass? I was thinking about a 0,1 sm net.

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No you can never match the flow of two pumps (even if they are the same model, and even if they are finely tuned with valves) as the flow will be variable as the plumbing collects films and algae. An overflow (pumping water up and letting it flow back down) is the only reliable method.

 

You can use mesh to keep algae out of the return pump, but it is harder to clean than glass.

 

Again, with bio-balls, the live rock and sand in the display is your bio-filter; so you don't need additional bio-media which needs to be kept clean.

 

The trend for fuges seems to be no sand (and often no rock). This allows you to grow a ball of Chaeto algae while making it easy to keep clean.

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The refugium is may be too hard for me to set up. I don't want one now. The tank is going to be 70/25/25 sm beacause the the hood must be around 68 sm so i decided to make the hood and the aquarium 70 long. The person gave me very good prices beacause we are in the same forum. He told me that i must have a skimmer. So, my question is what is going to happen if i don't have one for now? Is it going to be dangerous for the fish and the corals?

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He told me that i must have a skimmer. So, my question is what is going to happen if i don't have one for now? Is it going to be dangerous for the fish and the corals?

We covered this on page one:

 

While I like to use protein skimmers, you don't need one. Water changes and a good brand of activated carbon media would be sufficient.

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Yeah i know i just wanted to ask again. Just to be sure. Can i keep a birdnest coral or it is going to die? A person form our bulgarian forum sells a frag oa very low price so i decided to ask.

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nanolutionary

I think you're suffering from 'eager beaver' syndrome I know it's painful but buy a few reef books and settle yourself in I this, no rush that way you'll get it just the way you want it with less mistakes. I'd recommend Julian Sprung The Reef Aquarium

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You are right. I want to set the tank up now. The problem is i am moving very soon. So i want to rush but this stops me. I tottaly have that syndrom. Sorry for the spam.

I am going to look for the book. I was just thinking about what to read. I was thinking the birdnest is going to be far out of my future tank league just wanted to ask. Sorry if my English is not so good but that is not my native language.

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No problem, and your English is fine (just a few hiccups here and there). I've seen worse from some people whose primary language is English. Follow some more threads and you'll continue to learn.

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