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Sailfish in a 24G Nano Cube!


Sailfish

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91L (24G) Optiwhite Cube

I'm at it again, after a whole year without a reef tank at my student apartment. I was supposed to use that year for planning and gathering gear for the new setup, but it kind of lost its reference point. I got to painfully experience the level of reef addiction that I have achieved. Not having a reef tank in immediate vicinity really hurts! I mean it, it really hurts! :tears:

 

Needless to say I'm EXTREMELY EXCITED to set up this system now! :haha:

 

gallery_47191_3_73971.jpg

 

Specifications

Display tank: 91L (24G) Optiwhite Cube, measures 45cm*45cm*45cm

Sump: 42L (11G) Custom made with RO/DI reservoir and additive compartments, measures 35cm*40cm*30cm

Quarantine tank: 14L (3.7G), measures 35cm*40cm*10cm

Light: Lumia 5.2

Circulation: 1 x Ecotech Marine Vortech MP10WES, with DIY 12V Car Battery power backup + 1 x Hydor Koralia 900

*Coming soon

Return pump: Jebao DC6000

Filtration: 100 Micron filter sock, Bubble Magus Curve 5.5 skimmer, Media reactor (carbon+gfo, or biopellets)

Automatic top off: DIY Float Switch unit

Dosing pump(s): FS NT-01 Dosing Pump

 

I will continually update this first post, to reflect the current state of the tank :)

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Screw the fish tank tell us about the rpg

Ohh, that is just my buddy, Chip. I asked him to model for me, to show the size relations of the tank and stand :)

The RPG was needed to test the build quality.

 

Here are some pictures of the RPG test, from my high speed camera.

bFYtVh.jpg
oI1q1R.jpg
UOpyRN.jpg
ktKqwd.jpg
BLAST PROOF! B)
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Hey, guys and gals!

 

I'm in distress, trying to figure out what will look the best over my new tank. What do you think, the 6 inch or 12 inch Makers heatsink?

 

Here are two pics of the fixture siluettes, 9" above my future tank:

6 Inch MakersLED heatsink

 

6-Inch-Makers-heatsink-above-24G-correct

 

12 Inch MakersLED heatsink

12-Inch-Makers-heatsink-above-24G-correc

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My vote is the 12 inch. The 6 inch looks too small over the width of the tank (proportion wise). Just my 2 cents :-)

I lean towards agreeing with you :)

 

When I finished putting all the things that I wanted for the Lumia 5.2 build in the LEDgroupbuy basket, including a Storm controller, and estimated shipping the total cost came to $425.85.

That is quite expensive...

 

Then a thought flashed my mind, what about using a full spectrum PAR38 bulb instead?

Yes, it will not have close to the same controllability as the Lumia 5.2 with a Storm controller, but it will be much cheaper!

 

What do you guys think, is the Lumia 5.2 setup worth it in my setup?

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  • 2 weeks later...

It went like it always does with me; I covered my eyes with one hand and hit "PLACE ORDER" with the other :P

Lumia 5.2 kit, with Storm controller, was reported shipped today! B)
Can't wait till it arrives :wub:

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  • 2 months later...

Lumia 5.2 has arrived and QT and sump is custom ordered.
They should be finished before Christmas.

 

The only thing I lack now is the PVC. :)

 

I'm so ready to get this thing WET! omgomgomg

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  • 8 months later...

"Finished before Christmas", haha :lol:
The QT and the custom sump fell through. After constantly contacting the vendor that I hired to do it without getting an answer, four weeks later they said that they could not do it. :angry:

So now is a new school year, and I WILL get this baby up and running!

I have had an issue with the tank only having three drilled bulk heads in the bottom corner of the tank. I would like to have four, so that I can use three drains for a beananimal overflow and the fourth as the return. After deciding on plugging up the current holes and drill four new ones along the back, I'm now changing my mind again.

Is it ok for me to make a beananimal overflow with only two pipes?

I'm thinking that I can cut out the emergency pipe, as long as my sump return chamber is smaller then what the tank can handle in the case my second drain pipe gets completely clogged. That means that no matter what happens, the return pump will never be able to overflow the DT. In addition, I was thinking of using the one 16mm hole for the siphon line and one of the two 20mm holes as the second drain. This way if the siphon hole gets clogged, a fully open (no gate valve) 20mm will have no problem handling the extra.

 

Then I can use the third hole as a return. :)

What do you guys and gals think? :)

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  • 1 year later...

Nice! So see you back in a year?

Thanks :)

Haha, he is the reefer that this forums deserves, but not one it needs all the time :P

No seriously, I hope that I'm back for a while now :lol:

I have until end of June, before I graduate from my Medical University and move back to Norway. Planning on moving this whole setup with me :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really great job so far...Would love to see some more more pics :D

Thanks, hype :)

More pics when I get back to Poland from my winter break, home in Norway ;)

 

Here is my Norway tank, that is just doing it's thing without any supervision :rolleyes:

gallery_47191_2_695623.jpg

 

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Thanks, hype :)

More pics when I get back to Poland from my winter break, home in Norway ;)

 

Here is my Norway tank, that is just doing it's thing without any supervision :rolleyes:

 

 

Looks fantastic....love the scape

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  • 1 month later...

Measured my phosphorus with the "Hanna Phosphorus ULR" checker, and was a bit surprised to find the result to have gone from 2 ppb to 24 ppb, since yesterday!:o
I only feed 1/2 cube of frozen food, per day.

I noticed that the cuvette I was using did not allow me to fully close the lid of the Hanna checker, but I didn't think it would matter as long as the lip of the receptacle were covered and no external light would enter the checker. When I retested, using the other cuvette, I got the reading of 0 ppb:huh:
I'm pretty anal about performing all my tests according to the exact instructions that comes with the kits, but still struggling to get consistent results with the Hanna Phosphorus ULR:(
I have been experiencing a diatom/cyano bloom for the last week or so, so I expect there to be some excess nutrients.
Using a new Red Sea Nitrate Pro test kit, my nitrates have been testing undetectable 2 times, the last 3 days.
Elevated phosphates + low nitrates would be consistent with diatoms and cyano.
I will test phosphorus again tomorrow, when both the cuvettes have dried.  
Added a reactor with 50 mL RowaPhos, 2 days ago, so I hope it will help me starve out the algae.

Dosed 2.6g/30.46mL sodium bicarbonate (kH), to raise the alk from 128 ppm (7.15 dKH) -> 152 ppm (8.5 dKH).
This was my first time dosing any type of Alk/Ca/Mg supplements!:D 

IMG_6036.JPG

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IMG_6044.JPG
Got to give BRS credit for a surprisingly accurate Alk Calculator! :D
Still, I thought the pH would have increased by now. I dosed the sodium bicarbonate last night.
Will increasing my Alk from 152 ppm (8.5 dKH) to 170-179 ppm (9.5-10 dKH), with sodium bicarbonate, increase my tank pH, or do I need to get some sodium carbonate?

 

IMG_6045.JPG
Found out that one of the caps that follow in the Hanna Phosphorus ULR kit was the reason why I could not close the lid.
Did two tests now, one with each cuvette (used the same cap in both tests), and both came out to 8 ppb phosphorus (=0.02 ppm phosphate).
These results fit better with the scenario I see in my tank, atm. Although, I do feel like the green algae that is growing on the glass is growing a bit fast for undetectable nitrates and only 0.02 ppm phosphates... I have to scrape the glass two times a day with the magnet, to keep the tank somewhat clear.
Maybe my Optiwhite glass makes the new algae growth more apparent?:huh:
Add 50mL RowaPhos more?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick Update:)

As you can see in the video I posted earlier, I was recently starting to have a small outbreak of diatoms and cyano.
Nitrates were reading at undetectable levels (probably why I was not seeing any green hair algae), while phosphorus were reading 0-8 ppb (= 0-0.02 ppm phosphates).

Added 50mL RowaPhos and 50mL Fauna Marin Carb L (long acting activated carbon) in media reactors -> 2 weeks later: diatoms and cyano was still present, but not more then what I started with.
Added another 50mL RowaPhos and 50mL Fauna Marin Carb L (long-acting activated carbon) -> 1 week later: diatoms and cyano are starting to disappear, with only 20-30% left at this moment.


Anybody that would like to fill me in more about RowaPhos vs. GFO and how Rowa is supposed to not leech back any phosphate?
Isn't saturated media just non-active media?:huh:

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Powerslayer

Hey there, I'm that one guy you helped out in the youtube comments a while ago. youtube.com/watch?v=O5QRZREjud0&lc=z12rwzchko3xylrbs04cjxw55smkwruo5pw0k.1491952839556460

 

"In other words, any light you are throwing at your tank after 8-10 hours are mainly growing algae, not coral."

This is what I took from our conversation the most as I didn't know this. I've been in the hobby close to 10 years now and never even thought of looking this up due to previous success using a longer photoperiod method. I reduced my photoperiod to 8 hours which indeed sucks because when it's on, I'm gone, and when it's off, I get home. I have good news though! After purchasing some RowaPhos as we mentioned before, before it's even gotten in yet, the cyano has reduced incredibly. After reducing the light to just benefit zooxanthellae, I am finally removing nutrients faster than the algae can spread. I feel very stupid that it took me this long to reduce light because it's what people say a lot to combat nuisances. But I'm thankful that you told me about zooxanthellae only using 'n' hours of light. It convinced me to try it and worked. Simple solution. Stubborn young reefkeeper.. I appreciate it sir. 

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On 19.4.2017 at 8:29 PM, Powerslayer said:

Hey there, I'm that one guy you helped out in the youtube comments a while ago. youtube.com/watch?v=O5QRZREjud0&lc=z12rwzchko3xylrbs04cjxw55smkwruo5pw0k.1491952839556460

 

"In other words, any light you are throwing at your tank after 8-10 hours are mainly growing algae, not coral."

This is what I took from our conversation the most as I didn't know this. I've been in the hobby close to 10 years now and never even thought of looking this up due to previous success using a longer photoperiod method. I reduced my photoperiod to 8 hours which indeed sucks because when it's on, I'm gone, and when it's off, I get home. I have good news though! After purchasing some RowaPhos as we mentioned before, before it's even gotten in yet, the cyano has reduced incredibly. After reducing the light to just benefit zooxanthellae, I am finally removing nutrients faster than the algae can spread. I feel very stupid that it took me this long to reduce light because it's what people say a lot to combat nuisances. But I'm thankful that you told me about zooxanthellae only using 'n' hours of light. It convinced me to try it and worked. Simple solution. Stubborn young reefkeeper.. I appreciate it sir. 

So nice to hear from you, and what great news!:happy:
Yeah, RowaPhos/GFO+water changes+decreased light makes for a great algae killing combo!B)
Algae wars seems to be one of the absolute biggest reason for people leaving this wonderful hobby. 
I'm glad you are getting things under control.

Also, seeing as this was your first post on this forum, let me welcome you into a group of extremely positive and helpful group of enthusiasts:)
I believe more supportive fellow hobbyists do not exist:wub:
I hope that you'll hang around for a while. Get a feel for the place;)

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Powerslayer

Yes, it's a killer combo. And yeah, I mainly used R2R but used to have a NR account. Locked out of the email it's linked to though so had to create another one. Thanks again dude!

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I hear R2R is pretty nice too:)
Do you have a tank thread there? Link?
I hope to see you check in here too, from time to time;)

You are very welcome! Always happy to help:happy:

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