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IT'S BACK! - 4G Pico


k4ndyk1ng

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How yellow of a light is, the yellower the faster it will gro

W your corals but will lack colour, a desk lamp isn't really a good choice unless you replace the bulb with something more reef suited

The tank atm has the 40w lamp running on it and the shroom is growing really fast

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Update 10-03-14FTS the acrylic isn't siliconed in yetimagejpg2-7.jpg

 

2.5 weeks of coralline growth.... When will it stopimagejpg1-19.jpg

 

And finally the lamp powering that growth imagejpg3-1.jpg

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Man, you're doing something right because I can't get any coralline to gow on my glass at all...

Coralline on your glass sounds so good... until it starts growing on your glass. Then it's just a massive pain in the ass. :lol:
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Man, you're doing something right because I can't get any coralline to gow on my glass at all...

Coral vital or purple up.... consistent water changes and some time.... The water changes should be enough to keep the calcium up in your small tank... It will come and cover errything... hahhaa

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Man, you're doing something right because I can't get any coralline to gow on my glass at all...

I don't know what I am doing right lol and it is a pain. In my old 60g it didn't grow

Coralline on your glass sounds so good... until it starts growing on your glass. Then it's just a massive pain in the ass. :lol:

+++++1

Coral vital or purple up.... consistent water changes and some time.... The water changes should be enough to keep the calcium up in your small tank... It will come and cover errything... hahhaa

I use nothing, I think it is just regular water changes...

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Was for barista bob, but I hear ya.... usually all it takes for coraline is regular maintenence and time...
All I do is a 30% wc twice a week

 

There will be more coral photos coming. Soon

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it may be the Halogen bulb you look like you're running, that's promoting coral growth?

Im not sure, it is just a normal desk lamp that the mushrooms and the purple stuff love

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My only reasoning is that your params are probably the same so the only possible advantage this tank has is the zero-bioload or the lighting, and considering the coralline is densest in the highest light (look at the liverock shadow) I think the most probably. Pretty cool, it probably mimics the spectral qualities sun most but lacks the punch due to being such an inefficient system.

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My only reasoning is that your params are probably the same so the only possible advantage this tank has is the zero-bioload or the lighting, and considering the coralline is densest in the highest light (look at the liverock shadow) I think the most probably. Pretty cool, it probably mimics the spectral qualities sun most but lacks the punch due to being such an inefficient system.

Yeah, I moved the light and the coralline is growing at the other side of the tank lol...

 

 

Also I'm stuck for a lighting system, I'm going to upgrade to like a 16g cube or something of dimensions like that so the light must be good for that. I'm looking at kessil or a nano box. Also because I live in the uk the guy must ship here :/

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Why not build one (again lol)

 

I could probably get you a simple part list for my 30W LED thing I've got, should be perfect for upto a 45cm cube by itself. It's on par (he he get it) with a Kessil in terms of output and power

 

if not that, this would do http://www.marinereefled.co.uk/

anything there would work, and it's based on our little island.

 

e: that new smart satellite fixture looks awesome.

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Why not build one (again lol)

 

I could probably get you a simple part list for my 30W LED thing I've got, should be perfect for upto a 45cm cube by itself. It's on par (he he get it) with a Kessil in terms of output and power

 

if not that, this would do http://www.marinereefled.co.uk/'>http://www.marinereefled.co.uk/

anything there would work, and it's based on our little island.

 

e: that new smart satellite fixture looks awesome.

 

Could you get me the simple parts list because I think rapid led do ship to the uk

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I got everything for my build off eBay, came to about 35 pound total, then I used an Ikea gooseneck desk lamp to convert into the mount, I'll get you a list of what you'll need tomorrow

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I got everything for my build off eBay, came to about 35 pound total, then I used an Ikea gooseneck desk lamp to convert into the mount, I'll get you a list of what you'll need tomorrow

Thanks man

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no pics no proof.

 

as far as the LED build, you'll need these (I'm not going to include shopping links for everything, but you can find it all on eBay, just make sure you search for 'Located in the UK' or postage will take an age)

 

  1. 10W LED Chip, There are a number of options but I like this, and it's the main light on my tank - £5-9
  2. this is an absolute necessity in my case. The lamp can be used at half height (approx 80cm) and I've cut the screw bulb fitting out to replace it with an LED. Weirdly, there's an inner plate that can be rotated and provides the perfect dimensions to clad the heat sink and hold your LED Lens in place £11
  3. an LED Lens and reflector set, I found a cheaper one online but I can't find it anymore, this is a necessity as using an un-lensed LED can be quite ungainly - £5-15
  4. 10W LED Driver. Be sure to check the forward voltages and amperage - £10
  5. 60mm CPU fan - £2-3
  6. variable 12w DC adaptor - £5-8 for the CPU fan
  7. heat sink - this is important. The heat sink has screw fittings for the CPU fan, as well as your LED chip. I used cable ties to attach the fan and then cable tie the heatsink+fan assembly to my gooseneck floor lamp. You'll need a bit of ingenuity.
  8. Electrical tape, obvious reasons

 

The floor lamp has a built in switch and internal cabling that you can preserve when you dismantle the thing. This allows for a relatively clean build as well as the convenience of an inline switch. I'd also suggest one of these at some point, you can use a screwdriver to pry out the lens and then remove the internal LED, replace it with a 1-3w royal blue chip and use it as a neat little moonlight. I plan to do this except with an RGB setup and remote, funds permitting.

 

All in all you're looking at about £50 for a 10W led that'll give you comparable performance to a Kessil 150W, with better mounting options as well as the ability to cherry pick your LED colors for approximately a quarter of the cost, it works out to similar cost as getting a PAR38 LED bulb, but the shimmer is far far better.

 

The tank in my signature had 2 27W LED bulbs at about 60cm distance for spread, this will probably compare if held closer to the waterline, and will easily sustain SPS corals. My current build uses an overdriven LED chip at 30w (12v / 2.5 amp) but requires a substantial amount of cooling to not asplode. This is the same power draw as a Kessil 150W.

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no pics no proof.

 

as far as the LED build, you'll need these (I'm not going to include shopping links for everything, but you can find it all on eBay, just make sure you search for 'Located in the UK' or postage will take an age)

 

  1. 10W LED Chip, There are a number of options but I like this, and it's the main light on my tank - £5-9
  2. this is an absolute necessity in my case. The lamp can be used at half height (approx 80cm) and I've cut the screw bulb fitting out to replace it with an LED. Weirdly, there's an inner plate that can be rotated and provides the perfect dimensions to clad the heat sink and hold your LED Lens in place £11
  3. an LED Lens and reflector set, I found a cheaper one online but I can't find it anymore, this is a necessity as using an un-lensed LED can be quite ungainly - £5-15
  4. 10W LED Driver. Be sure to check the forward voltages and amperage - £10
  5. 60mm CPU fan - £2-3
  6. variable 12w DC adaptor - £5-8 for the CPU fan
  7. heat sink - this is important. The heat sink has screw fittings for the CPU fan, as well as your LED chip. I used cable ties to attach the fan and then cable tie the heatsink+fan assembly to my gooseneck floor lamp. You'll need a bit of ingenuity.
  8. Electrical tape, obvious reasons

 

The floor lamp has a built in switch and internal cabling that you can preserve when you dismantle the thing. This allows for a relatively clean build as well as the convenience of an inline switch. I'd also suggest one of these at some point, you can use a screwdriver to pry out the lens and then remove the internal LED, replace it with a 1-3w royal blue chip and use it as a neat little moonlight. I plan to do this except with an RGB setup and remote, funds permitting.

 

All in all you're looking at about £50 for a 10W led that'll give you comparable performance to a Kessil 150W, with better mounting options as well as the ability to cherry pick your LED colors for approximately a quarter of the cost, it works out to similar cost as getting a PAR38 LED bulb, but the shimmer is far far better.

 

The tank in my signature had 2 27W LED bulbs at about 60cm distance for spread, this will probably compare if held closer to the waterline, and will easily sustain SPS corals. My current build uses an overdriven LED chip at 30w (12v / 2.5 amp) but requires a substantial amount of cooling to not asplode. This is the same power draw as a Kessil 150W.

ok thanks man,

will look at it

 

and pictures coming soon

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