Easy Water Change Tank

[rengb6]

I don't know if you've seen this video yet but I found it very helpful. I'll be using this method on a 155g freshwater that I'm setting up next month. Fortunately it'll be in my basement right next to a water source and drain so I won't have to worry about a waste bucket and ATO reservoir. I'll be pumping the clean water into my sump and taking the dirty water out from the top of the main tank. Hopefully that'll remove mostly old water. Please post pics once you get it up and running!

 

[ReviloM]

I don't know if you've seen this video yet but I found it very helpful. I'll be using this method on a 155g freshwater that I'm setting up next month. Fortunately it'll be in my basement right next to a water source and drain so I won't have to worry about a waste bucket and ATO reservoir. I'll be pumping the clean water into my sump and taking the dirty water out from the top of the main tank. Hopefully that'll remove mostly old water. Please post pics once you get it up and running!

 

I just watched the video. I didn't know joey had made a video on a auto water change. His method though will only be useful with freshwater tanks and reefers with their tank near drains and water heaters. If I were to do his way with a reef tank, I can see it throwing the salinity out of balance over time with the drips and a waste in WC. My corals wouldn't have a chance to fully absorb all the elements out the water because of the constant drip. It would be easier for me to just added more body of water connected to the tank than this.

 

 

I will!

[LynkUK]

Im with Tibbsy on this. I like the concept, but if I'm doing a (lets say) 3gal water change, I want to know that I've changed 3gal. The larger the water change, the greater the varible with this type of system. Lets say its a new system at the end of the cycle. You need to get nitrates down from 20ppm to 10ppm. With the manual system you know that 50% of your water volume will need to be changed. With this system you won't know how much water it will take unless you are constantly testing while "flushing" the system.

[ReviloM]

Im with Tibbsy on this. I like the concept, but if I'm doing a (lets say) 3gal water change, I want to know that I've changed 3gal. The larger the water change, the greater the varible with this type of system. Lets say its a new system at the end of the cycle. You need to get nitrates down from 20ppm to 10ppm. With the manual system you know that 50% of your water volume will need to be changed. With this system you won't know how much water it will take unless you are constantly testing while "flushing" the system.

I will do a test the parameters before and after a water change once I get finish setting this up. I want to build a new stand because I want the containers to be hidden. As of right now, my petco stand doesn't allow me to hold in containers under my tank.

 

I understand that some must have the exact measurement taken in out for your OCDness ( not a word). I. on the other hand, do not because I need the little nitrates and phosphates I have now that aren't detected. My tank has remained nutrient deprived for some odd reason and I have to keep feeding just to keep my corals dying (lps and zoas). The overall goal of this is to replenish elements in my case. The general conclusion is that it will mix immediate with the old water but that won't be the case with me having the RW-4 on a timer to turn off while the WC is going on. So the the water will be stagnant while a slow steady stream fills the tank and on the opposite end, water will be exiting out.

 

I could do it the way you guys want to do manually or automatically. If I do it manually, then there will be instances where I skip WC because of laziness or daily conflicts. If I do automaticallly using 2 pumps, one to pump and the other to draw out, it will over complicate it. one pump could fail while the other works causing dreadful issues. My way makes it worry-free and guarantees a WC just not the traditional way but it will be done.

 

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Anyone know where I can get a dual compartment plastic waste container? Basically, a container with 2 sides capable of storing to liquids separately.

[smiz]

For your intent I think this is perfect. Yes you wont get the perfect 3 to 3 gallon change but in that case just do a larger water change to make up for what you losing. If you goal is to just replenish your system this works perfect. If you need to actually calculate how much water needs to be removed and added to manage an issue, then you can just do it manually. Drain 3g and then pump 3g in. This is so simple and fail proof I love it.

[farkwar]

Seems to me you're just making this hard on yourself.

 

An RKL(RKE if you want full functionality), 5 switch breakout module, 4 float switches, 2 MJ400 powerheads, 6 feet or so of 1/2" tubing.

 

1) Start by having the sequence turn off the system pump, turn off power to ATO controller.

2) HIGH floatswitch in sump, turns on #1 MJ400 in sump.

3) #1 MJ400 pumps sump water to waste container, drain, or toilet.

4) LOW floatswitch in sump, turns off #1 MJ400 in sump.

Turns on #2MJ 400 in new saltwater reservoir.

5) #2 MJ400 fills sump up to HIGH floatswitch, then turns off #2 MJ 400

6) System pump turns back on.

 

No new saltwater gets pumped out with old saltwater. Use extra float switches for redundancy, amico switches are like $3 on amazon. Make acrylic brackets for switches for a few dollars.

 

Iirc, Spectrapure has dedicated ATO and Auto water change modules that do all this.

[ReviloM]

Seems to me you're just making this hard on yourself.

 

An RKL(RKE if you want full functionality), 5 switch breakout module, 4 float switches, 2 MJ400 powerheads, 6 feet or so of 1/2" tubing.

 

1) Start by having the sequence turn off the system pump, turn off power to ATO controller.

2) HIGH floatswitch in sump, turns on #1 MJ400 in sump.

3) #1 MJ400 pumps sump water to waste container.

4) LOW floatswitch in sump, turns off #1 MJ400 in sump.

Turns on #2MJ 400 in new saltwater reservoir.

5) #2 MJ400 fills sump up to HIGH floatswitch, then turns off #2 MJ 400

6) System pump turns back on.

 

No new saltwater gets pumped out with old saltwater.

 

Iirc, Spectrapure has dedicated ATO and Auto water change modules that do all this.

My way minimal equipment is needed. Your way too many moving parts to sustain. More parts = Good chance to fail even with backups. I've learned to keep close to the K.I.S.S. method. I had a RKE and there were times it failed while I was out. So controllers, aren't 100% reliable at times.

Also, look at the costs it is taking you. Compared to just buying salt mix more, which is $64 for a 175G of Red Sea Coral Pro Salt. I have a (1) pump which is free but if I didnt that would be say $30. So $94 total with pump.

 

Your wayThat's roughly $300-$500+ for someone without the controller, ~$60-$100 for the float switches, and pumps will be ~$40 for both. So a total ranging from ~$400 - $640.

[farkwar]

Walmart has potable water containers, one is like a Jerry can 6 gallons, like 12 bucks.

 

And a blue cube, with spout, 7 gallons, for like 14 bucks.

 

You can probably get Reef Savvy or Advanced Acrylics make you expensive awesome looking, wife approved 2 chamber containers.

[ReviloM]

Walmart has potable water containers, one is like a Jerry can 6 gallons, like 12 bucks.

 

And a blue cube, with spout, 7 gallons, for like 14 bucks.

 

You can probably get Reef Savvy or Advanced Acrylics make you expensive awesome looking, wife approved 2 chamber containers.

Well my wife would approve any one I choose because she is happy I have a hobby and stay out of trouble. I will compare prices between getting one made and seeing if I can find some kind of farming store for that kind of container.

[farkwar]

My way minimal equipment is needed. Your way too many moving parts to sustain. More parts = Good chance to fail even with backups. I've learned to keep close to the K.I.S.S. method. I had a RKE and there were times it failed while I was out. So controllers, aren't 100% reliable at times.

Also, look at the costs it is taking you. Compared to just buying salt mix more, which is $64 for a 175G of Red Sea Coral Pro Salt. I have a (1) pump which is free but if I didnt that would be say $30. So $94 total with pump.

 

Your wayThat's roughly $300-$500+ for someone without the controller, ~$60-$100 for the float switches, and pumps will be ~$40 for both. So a total ranging from ~$400 - $640.

 

Ya, but now you have a controller for your syestem for free.

[ReviloM]

Ya, but now you have a controller for your syestem for free.

Lol true. I'd rather have the extra money for corals to place in my tank and watch grow out.

[farkwar]

Well my wife would approve any one I choose because she is happy I have a hobby and stay out of trouble. I will compare prices between getting one made and seeing if I can find some kind of farming store for that kind of container.

Our Orchard Supply got bought and shut down.

 

Tractor Supply went in. They sell Norwesco tanks if you want big water tanks.

 

120 for RKL

50 for switch module

12 for amico float switches

30 for 2 mj400 pumps at Drs.

5 for tubing

10 for acrylic, for mount brackets

8 for 2 white 5 gallon buckets with lids from HD. You dont want the orange ones.

~$235

 

Sell 2 polyps and its paid for.

[tibbsy07]

For your intent I think this is perfect. Yes you wont get the perfect 3 to 3 gallon change but in that case just do a larger water change to make up for what you losing. If you goal is to just replenish your system this works perfect. If you need to actually calculate how much water needs to be removed and added to manage an issue, then you can just do it manually. Drain 3g and then pump 3g in. This is so simple and fail proof I love it.

I think the issue with your suggestion of going larger, is that you have zero control, and going larger actually increases the variability in water changes. LynnUK said it spot on.

 

In addition, the biggest flaw I see - and I do think this is a GREAT idea, and would be perfect with some modifications (I have an idea for this, too) - has to do with stability. We want our tanks as stable as possible, and that means doing things regularly and keeping routines and dosing and feeding the same. This particular design creates a lot of variability. Here is what I propose:

 

Keep this idea going, but instead of having the water overflow over the bulkhead, put a small overflow/T-valve connection in the bulkhead, plumbed to the waste water container. Use a small mesh cover or something, like the aerators in sinks/faucets for houses. When it's time for a water change, take 30 seconds and open up the T valve, allowing water from the tank to fill up to 3 gallons or however much water you want, in the waste bucket, and then close the valve. THEN have the ATO/New water set up pump water in.

[Mojado]

I still think this is going to be difficult because you can't control how much of which water type is being removed. I think you'll find if you do, say a 3 gallon water change, you'll do less than a total of 3 gallons. I think it'll work for you if that's what you want, but it's too imprecise for me. I like knowing I took out 3 gallons and have added 3 gallons back.

Yep. I characterized my calcium, alk, and magnesium consumption so I test less. I also (well, my spreadsheet does) calculate how these are boosted up when I do a water change. I need to know exactly how much waste water is removed and replaced with new saltwater.

 

I personally use water changes to vacuum the sand bed and blast with turkey baster all the rocks, then suck up what gets blown away. Dump new water in the sump and turn on the pumps. water change done.

[ReviloM]

Our Orchard Supply got bought and shut down.

 

Tractor Supply went in. They sell Norwesco tanks if you want big water tanks.

 

120 for RKE

50 for switch module

12 for amico float switches

30 for 2 mj400 pumps at Drs.

5 for tubing

10 for acrylic, for mount brackets

8 for 2 white 5 gallon buckets with lids from HD. You dont want the orange ones.

~$235

 

Sell 2 polyps and its paid for.

Yeah if gut it down like that you will save more. But I just don't want that extra equipment to maintain. But your addition will save for those who have a controller.

 

I think the issue with your suggestion of going larger, is that you have zero control, and going larger actually increases the variability in water changes. LynnUK said it spot on.

 

In addition, the biggest flaw I see - and I do think this is a GREAT idea, and would be perfect with some modifications (I have an idea for this, too) - has to do with stability. We want our tanks as stable as possible, and that means doing things regularly and keeping routines and dosing and feeding the same. This particular design creates a lot of variability. Here is what I propose:

 

Keep this idea going, but instead of having the water overflow over the bulkhead, put a small overflow/T-valve connection in the bulkhead, plumbed to the waste water container. Use a small mesh cover or something, like the aerators in sinks/faucets for houses. When it's time for a water change, take 30 seconds and open up the T valve, allowing water from the tank to fill up to 3 gallons or however much water you want, in the waste bucket, and then close the valve. THEN have the ATO/New water set up pump water in.

That is a great suggest for someone who has the ability to do so in their home environment. In my case, I am not able to do so. My way wouldn't throw my parameters out of balance. In theory, It will replenish the elements not as much as an exact change but enough to sustain. I will no for certain once my materials are delivered. My LFS don't have any bulkheads......

 

 

Yep. I characterized my calcium, alk, and magnesium consumption so I test less. I also (well, my spreadsheet does) calculate how these are boosted up when I do a water change. I need to know exactly how much waste water is removed and replaced with new saltwater.

 

I personally use water changes to vacuum the sand bed and blast with turkey baster all the rocks, then suck up what gets blown away. Dump new water in the sump and turn on the pumps. water change done.

 

 

I should have stated that I am doing barebottom. RW-4 will keep my detritus constantly afloat easily. If every thing works out as planned, the need for testing will be reduced greatly. I would only need to test the new bucket of saltmix for the big 3, the tank parameters when I frst start up, and the tank parameters after the first water change to see how much is replenished.

[tibbsy07]

That is a great suggest for someone who has the ability to do so in their home environment. In my case, I am not able to do so. My way wouldn't throw my parameters out of balance. In theory, It will replenish the elements not as much as an exact change but enough to sustain. I will no for certain once my materials are delivered. My LFS don't have any bulkheads......

I guess I don't see why not? Your plan is to have the old water displaced OVER the existing plastic rear wall by the new water, yes? If you have the wall already in the tank, you could order the valve/overflow drain from online or just get plumbing stuff from the hardware store, and just put it in the already existing plastic and then instead of the old water pouring over into the waste bucket, it goes through the drain/T-valve. The valve would only take like 3 inches of space. The only difference is that the old water goes through the valve and a small pipe/tube/etc to have the old water flow into the waste bucket. I assume the waste bucket is mobile, you have to be able to empty it somehow, right? I guess I'm having a hard time visualizing this in my head.

 

I disagree about your parameters, as every time you change the water you will likely get different results. I am interested to see how this works out for you.

[ReviloM]

I guess I don't see why not? Your plan is to have the old water displaced OVER the existing plastic rear wall by the new water, yes? No, its will be a basic glass box drilled with bulkheads.

 

If you have the wall already in the tank, you could order the valve/overflow drain from online or just get plumbing stuff from the hardware store, and just put it in the already existing plastic and then instead of the old water pouring over into the waste bucket, it goes through the drain/T-valve. The valve would only take like 3 inches of space. The only difference is that the old water goes through the valve and a small pipe/tube/etc to have the old water flow into the waste bucket. I assume the waste bucket is mobile, you have to be able to empty it somehow, right? Yes and no. Yes it would easy just to move and poor the water out. On the other hand, if I can't find a suitable mobile one, I will just place a pump in the waste with a very long vinyl tube to dispose of the water and wind the tube up and place it back under the stand when done.

 

I guess I'm having a hard time visualizing this in my head.

 

I disagree about your parameters, as every time you change the water you will likely get different results. I am interested to see how this works out for you. Right now its theoretical. Once I have it up and running, I will have an exact answer. TBH, as long as it stays in the desired range for growth and color, I am fine. There would be no need for me to chase numbers.

[smiz]

I think this all depends on the user. If you are trying to chase down every variable in your tank this will not work. But like me and marq we simple do water change to replenish trace elements. If I do a 3g water change and only 2.5g goes in with .5g lost that is still going to add those trace elements. That is where I said increase volume of your water change to say 4g. Maybe you'll lose 1g to displacement your still getting those trace elements added. plus with most other methods mentioned there is room for failure. In this case there is no way for this to fail unless you physically mess it up by not emptying your waste jug. definitely not the most precise, but would definitely work for many.